This afternoon (9/21) was fuckin filth. solid overhead bombs cranking at South End. Surfed 4-7:30. First hour there were only around 10 guys out. Consistent fun and definitely a taste of some fall juice.
A little undergunned on a 6'1, so every takeoff was late, and the board was redlining on the speedy takeoffs. Lots of big fun walls to rip the shit out of, and a killer current that dragged your ass all the way South.
There was an insane inside section too, where the waves sucked up on a shallow sandbar to show you who you daddy was if you got too cocky. Got bodyslammed onto sand and swear I thought I broke my board after getting pummeled by a couple of closeout barrels.
Later in the evening some bigger bomb sets started breaking pretty far out, and the whitewater steamrolled you, then reformed on the inside.
Fun, mellow and friendly crew to surf with. Plenty o' waves for everyone. The early session tomorrow should be good if the conditions stay the same.
Sloat parking lot 6:30am. This time I'm taking the 7' mini gun.
MMmmmm... inner bar annihilators. I'll make the am/pm sessions sooner or later, Wednesday pm activities have priority at the moment though otherwise I'd be getting pummeled right now. Start of next week wind/swell combo is reported to be looking good after some anticipated breezy days.
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