3D Printing for outdoor nerds

[Melee]

Skin tips compatible with square shovels like on Moment skis. BDs are a no-go. Pomoca looks like it should be okay. G3 looks like it might be ok too. I bought some G3 skin tips last year but never ended up installing them.

Pomoca's work fine.
G3's work fine.
BD's with the large tip loop work on almost all of our skis. You can also slide the metal C's on the tip loop inward and then hook them over the tip on all of our skis.

[waveshello]

Since you are asking, kingpin heel shims 2mm. But I assume you are still coming east at some point and we are linking for a beverage?!

FWIW the heel shims work perfectly. They are a 2mm ABS just like I asked for. I have three happy buddies that now love kingpins. And I also don’t have to make them anymore. 3D is way easier then jigsaw and razor blades, and grinders and sanders.

Why would you shim the KP heels? And why would you shim anything just 2mm?

I have shims under my KP toes, never heard of someone wanting more delta on that binding.

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[alfajores]

Good thread for my side project! I want to print/machine/forge/whatever an adaptor socket that lets me use the detachable Alpine Whippet head on my favorite poles. Basically, that Whippet head has an interface that's designed to work with special BD poles that are out of stock, and aren't the poles I want anyway. So I'm working on reverse engineering that socket interface, hopefully getting a proto 3d printed to test fit, and then either get a final version printed out of something durable and cold resistant with a threaded steel insert, or get something machined out of aluminum. Any input on that!?

Definitely do not want just any type of plastic that is additive printed. It simply wont hold up to the force of self arrest at a high enough tolerance to be considered safe. I would maybe consider ABS, but that is a very loose maybe.

Printing a part, building a mold, pouring metal might be an option. That said, you may also find a readily available part for your need like an all metal bicycle handle bar end cap that has a screw thread pitch and width that matches the whippet threading.

I too have a couple of those whippets. My first one failed in a self arrest (the rivets holding the grip on blew out). BD offered to replace it but never sent me the warranty credit and when I left the position I had where I was given a pro-deal, the customer service conversation went with that email account. I would also consider buying something with a UL head that is pop-riveted on and remove that rivet, then fashion a new all metal receiver that is integral to the new pole, throw a solid pin in the rivet hole, and identify a no/low fail pin keeper solution depending on how you fabricate/fashion the pole (maybe a longer pole for one hand with the grip shifted down to expose the pole material?

[Brasso]

Good to know, alfajores, rfconroy, and Melee. My previous 3D printing experience was over 8 years ago at this point, and I'm sure the tech has come long way. Is the biggest reason people don't print ABS the fumes?

[fleaches]

Good to know, alfajores, rfconroy, and Melee. My previous 3D printing experience was over 8 years ago at this point, and I'm sure the tech has come long way. Is the biggest reason people don't print ABS the fumes?

Also needs high-ish temps and is really prone to warping

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[alfajores]

Good to know, alfajores, rfconroy, and Melee. My previous 3D printing experience was over 8 years ago at this point, and I'm sure the tech has come long way. Is the biggest reason people don't print ABS the fumes?

Fumes and temperature management. Some printers do not extrude at hot enough temperatures and many beds cannot support the ABS without warping because they heat unevenly. Lots to consider with ABS and it is simply out of the realm of most printer set ups. Needing to enclose the printer and set up environmental temperature management might make more sense for a MakerBot or similar.

[mrkbrnblm]

Good thread for my side project! I want to print/machine/forge/whatever an adaptor socket that lets me use the detachable Alpine Whippet head on my favorite poles. Basically, that Whippet head has an interface that's designed to work with special BD poles that are out of stock, and aren't the poles I want anyway. So I'm working on reverse engineering that socket interface, hopefully getting a proto 3d printed to test fit, and then either get a final version printed out of something durable and cold resistant with a threaded steel insert, or get something machined out of aluminum. Any input on that!?

Check out this article from WildSnow if you haven't already seen it: https://www.wildsnow.com/24067/black...et-review-mod/

May be helpful for the reverse engineering. Looks like it's less about the handle and more about the shaft with threaded rod.

[rfconroy]

Seen it, and a good reminder I need to work on this...

[mrkbrnblm]

How about a rotobrush holder? The manufactured ones are crazy expensive for what seems like a pretty basic device.

[alfajores]

How about a rotobrush holder? The manufactured ones are crazy expensive for what seems like a pretty basic device.

That should be pretty straightforward. You would need to get yourself some dimensions and could probably build out your design with calipers and free software in a couple days time! Just may sure that nothing you print is in contact with moving parts or else you will want to design for inserted bushings.

[rfconroy]

My friend wants to know what a rotobrush holder is, got any links...

[alfajores]

My friend wants to know what a rotobrush holder is, got any links...

I had to Google it. Would be good for home base treatment and with a diamond dust brush roller, maybe smooth out those huge dings our edges get skiing Copper in November...

[Brasso]

Roto brushes and the handles + dust shields: https://www.racewax.com/tuning-tools/roto-brushes/

[fleaches]

Oh just had an idea here: custom freeride spacer type contraptions. The ATK one is obviously super nice but even the "universal" one doesn't work for bindings that keep the boot really close to the ski (I'm thinking specifically of the Trofeo).

Some people put plastic blocks down under the heel to create a spacer, but since it doesn't slide side to side like the ATK spacer this likely changes release characteristics.

This would definitely be a little bit of a project but might be cool to make a lower profile freeride spacer that does slide and that can have the height adjusted to a specific setup.

[rfconroy]

Oh just had an idea here: custom freeride spacer type contraptions. The ATK one is obviously super nice but even the "universal" one doesn't work for bindings that keep the boot really close to the ski (I'm thinking specifically of the Trofeo).

Some people put plastic blocks down under the heel to create a spacer, but since it doesn't slide side to side like the ATK spacer this likely changes release characteristics.

This would definitely be a little bit of a project but might be cool to make a lower profile freeride spacer that does slide and that can have the height adjusted to a specific setup.

The freeride spacer from them actually has a sliding AFD, so I am not sure how I could implement that.

I did mockup a Dynafit Rad toe shim for those interested in trying/testing for some feedback

[lucknau]

The freeride spacer from them actually has a sliding AFD, so I am not sure how I could implement that.

I did mockup a Dynafit Rad toe shim for those interested in trying/testing for some feedback

There’s a discussion about this in the Lotus thread and someone had a great solution. In lieu of a sliding AFD he uses a layer of super slippery slip tape on top of a DIY freeride spacer, recreating the teflon style AFD surface.

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...88#post6737788


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[DigSki]

The freeride spacer from them actually has a sliding AFD, so I am not sure how I could implement that.

I did mockup a Dynafit Rad toe shim for those interested in trying/testing for some feedback

Sick, thanks man. If you post it then I’ll print and test sometime soon as long as I can find screws long enough.

On the screw point - SkiMo says stock Rads use 19mm toe screws, is that right? Just asking cause that’s a damn long flat head. I didn’t think the toe was that high but maybe it is (skis are not near me right now). I guess I can put inserts in and just use 25mm M5 screws unless someone has a better idea.


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[lucknau]

Sick, thanks man. If you post it then I’ll print and test sometime soon as long as I can find screws long enough.

On the screw point - SkiMo says stock Rads use 19mm toe screws, is that right? Just asking cause that’s a damn long flat head. I didn’t think the toe was that high but maybe it is (skis are not near me right now). I guess I can put inserts in and just use 25mm M5 screws unless someone has a better idea.


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Rad or Rad 2.0? This is what I’ve got for the 2.0



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[DigSki]

Rad or Rad 2.0? This is what I’ve got for the 2.0



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Thanks for the measurement! I have Rad and if Rad2 measures 15.8 then 19 for Rad makes sense (Rad mounts thru the entire toe piece, whereas Rad2 mounts through a thinner plate that connects to the toe piece)

[priapism]

Has anyone printed their own insoles? There's a website that lets you design orthotics based off an STL of your foot, which you can use an iPhone to scan if you don't have your own 3d scanner. Would be curious to see how well PLA holds up to skiing, but also just general footwear uses.
http://gensole.com/

[Core Shot]

That is cool. Either on a budget or for kids that grow too fast.

PLA should be fine. It flexes but doesn’t break down. And the infill can also control flex and stiffness. But for alpine I think PETG would be more like a posted or cork footbed.
The examples they show seem like walking or running orthotics.

But.

How do you get an STL that’s accurate?

There’s nothing I saw there that tells you

[priapism]

That is cool. Either on a budget or for kids that grow too fast.

PLA should be fine. It flexes but doesn’t break down. And the infill can also control flex and stiffness. But for alpine I think PETG would be more like a posted or cork footbed.
The examples they show seem like walking or running orthotics.

But.

How do you get an STL that’s accurate?

There’s nothing I saw there that tells you

Good call on the infill.
For accuracy there's an instructables page here that suggests casting a model using clay or play-dough, but then they use a 3d scanning app to just create the model later. https://www.instructables.com/3D-Pri...DIY-Orthotics/
Seems like there's just going to be some margin of error with any 3d scanning. But at least you can make changes and just print another? I suppose this could also work for making tweaks on a stock design

[AlpiNord]

Has anyone printed their own insoles? There's a website that lets you design orthotics based off an STL of your foot, which you can use an iPhone to scan if you don't have your own 3d scanner. Would be curious to see how well PLA holds up to skiing, but also just general footwear uses.
http://gensole.com/

Thanks for the link. I've been thinking about printing some insoles, wedges &/or cants. I'll study this later. I've been thinking that one approach was to draw them like a topographic map from an impression, benchmark elevation and a grid system. With a material like that for the Foot Dynamics impression kit or even plaster of paris or something.

If you printed the insoles solid out of PETG, you can still sand it to fine tune them.

[Core Shot]

I hadn’t thought about wedges and shims.

That needs no scan or template.

When my kids finally got out west each year and my boot fitter friend used a varus wedge to take up volume and an arch wedge to prevent pronation it’s amazing how much better they ski

[AlpiNord]

I hadn’t thought about wedges and shims.

That needs no scan or template.

When my kids finally got out west each year and my boot fitter friend used a varus wedge to take up volume and an arch wedge to prevent pronation it’s amazing how much better they ski

Varis wedges definitely have helped me by moving my knees to straight up and down. I couldn't get on an edge as well. They are made out of a dense rubber. I got some NinjaTek Cheetah TPU which is pliable to experiment with on wedges and maybe insoles. You could print layers of different materials too.