And a Pinion engineer got all huffy, indignant, and resentful.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Ok, experts and Google-Fu masters, I can’t seem to find this product in existence basically anywhere, and I could use your search skills.
Looking for:
160mm
DM chainring, down to 26t
Ideally 24mm spindle, but 30mm would work
Under 600 grams for arms and spindle.
In turn, I will buy you a huge, 1 Litre Bavarian e-Beer!
(I could be convinced by a Hope 155, but I think they are still vapor-ware?)
TIA, hombres
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Rideit, have you called Canfield? Everything was out of stock when I was looking to order and they were able to give me an ETA that proved accurate. If I recall, I was able to place an order even though they were out of stock and Canfield just shipped once back in stock. Doesn't look like you can do that anymore. 155mm are showing in stock though. If you are on 165s now that's what I'd order anyways. 160 isn't different enough to drop $300 on IMO.
I put Canfield 160's on my Rail when I built it up, coming from 170. Could feel a difference at first, but IMO took about as long to get used to as it does going from round to oval chainring. So maybe 5 minutes. Went with a smaller chainring to offset shorter crank length.
I’ll text L or M tomorrow, good idea. He’s an old homie. But not sure I want the GXP nonsense, honestly.
I might try the 155’s, but they are a wee bit portly (about 100 grams heavier than my XTR 165’s).
Choices, choices.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Not a lot of choice out there for cranks shorter than 165 as you've noticed. 100g for cranks hasn't been a big deal.
True, true. But part of this search is for my wife, who is under 5’. She really, really benefits from a light bike at 115 lbs or so.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
The Canfield cranks are cool, but have a couple quirks:
1- They use the old GXP BB standard. Not a big deal, but I prefer DUB.
2- You need to find a 0mm offset chainring (generally reserved for Super Boost frames) rather than the standard 3mm offset, otherwise the chainring will strike the chainstay/swingarm of your bike.
I ended up using a standard 3mm Boost chainring on my Canfield cranks. I ordered the "correct" offset and it was way too far outboard. I have used 30t and 32t Absolute Black ovals with no problem.
If any of you folks going with short cranks is selling sram dub boost cranks in 170 fairly cheap lmk. Got a bike w 175 so be interested going a little shorter. Bit wary that dropping down to 165 might feel like too radical of a change and need smaller changing but I guess I’d consider those also if anyone flipping some.
Bump. I’m wanting to try shorter than 160 to see if the knees prefer it and to permanently run my Stevo in the low setting cause how it corners makes me giggle. Anyone try the Trailcraft 152mm? They don’t have 155, but I won’t notice 3cm. I can throw a 28 on and a cheap XT BB and it’s a fairly cost effective experiment. The Canfields Evdog recommends are tempting also, but a little more cash and should be back in stock soon.
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You may want to check and see if miranda have something for you. I bought some 160 emtb cranks from thdm a few years ago and theyve held up really well and are inexpensive. Gettong a pair of 155's from thdm is on my shortlist
https://mirandabikestore.com/
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Haven't ridden them myself, but mounted these up for my small 12y/o's mountain bike. Might be worth a try if you have a square taper BB around before committing to something more expensive.
Ganoper 152mm for $44
https://www.amazon.com/GANOPPER-Narr...8-2&th=1&psc=1
I'm a nonbeliever but https://thebikedads.com/kids-cranks/
I been running 160s for over 2yrs, and just dropped chainring by 2T to make up for the torque loss. Works moar betterer, and can pedal sections with 160s that I couldn't with 170s. Centered stance on DH is better too, you notice it when you go back to a longer cranked bike. I have never seen a moto with fore/aft pegs to improve things.
It is a give/take, but I'll take it, and won't go back. Back and knees hurt less with the shorty cranks too, important as father time creeps up.
For reference my park bike has 170s on it still, so I do go back and forth a lot regularly, not a fan of 170+.
When you say you can pedal sections that you can't with 170s, is it just steep or are there rocks to clear?
I do a lot of steep climbing on edge of HAB and I'm already on a 30t ring with 170s and it seems to be the sweet spot for me. Wouldn't want to go down to a 28 for a variety of reasons. I did try 165s for a minute and it seemed fine but already have 170s on all my other bikes and I put those on the Lady's bike.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air
When I first switched to 160 from 170, it was "harder" to pedal for a couple weeks, but then I didn't even notice it. I run 160s with a 30T on my HD5, which is the one I pedal the most on. Huge fan.
My wife is on 150s with a 28T, she's 5'4" and the crank length is proportionally correct, and her knees and lower back no longer hurt when riding.
160s basically give you another 3/8" of pedal clearance before hitting anything. I have found it's a significant improvement on a modern full suspension bike. If you are over 6' there's zero reason to do it.
I’m all in. Ordered a 152 trail craft and a ring and BB off planet cycles closing sale for stupid cheap. I’ll report back with what I find. 6’1”, mostly steep technical climbs during alpine season. Really curious to try this.
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