10 Months in Equatorial Singapore

[Ottime]

And we arrived in Tokyo.










We had limited options to eat at 11:20PM. This place had only Japanese printed menus. Thank you for Google Translate. Of course it is not perfect, and we ended up with Shashmi instead of Gyoza. Not a big issue, as the fish was great. We also had some fried chicken and a plate of noodles.





Earlier in the evenings, this place is full of drinkers.






We are staying in the Shibuya neighborhood. and it feel like I imagine Tokyo is. I wonder what is being sold in Tower Records these days, and it turns out venal is still a thing here.





There were more than a few of these trucks. Tokyo is loud, even though people talk in hushed tones - there is just so much advertising going on. This truck was playing music at a solid volume, cruising the neighborhood. I think we saw this one at least five times in a single afternoon.






The Shibuya Scramble is fun to get involved with. I've heard it called chaotic, but it really feels like a choreographed mob ballet. It is also way more pedestrian friendly than Singapore. The idea of telling all the cars to stop and wait while everyone on foot or bicycle can move in any direction across the massive intersection would likely be illegal in SG. In the end, it is an efficient way of moving all these humans. If you want, there is a 2nd story Starbucks you can sit in and watch the action. Or you can view from any corner or a few nearby vantage points. It is cool to see the foot crowd grow, and swell, and fill the sidewalks waiting for their turn to move, and then, like a switch, the people flow and the area empties out. Only to cycle again, and again and again.






Of course, all that walking was to get us some lunch. We popped into some random ramen spot. Paid and ordered at a machine, handed a ticket to some dude and a few minutes later we were eating delicious ramen. I think the three of us ate (and I had a small beer) for US$19. Food here is not SE Asia cheap, but you can eat really well in Japan and not need to spend a lot of money.

[Ignatius]

Ottime - One more question... How does a person pay for stuff in Singapore (I'm thinking of stalls at hawker ctrs in particular, but other stuff too) -- I usually picture cash for that sort of transaction, but with SG being super modern maybe they favor apps or cards...

thanks!

[Ottime]

Great question.

Public transit you can just swipe your credit card if it has a trip. Tap in/ tap out system. If you are transferring, it calculates the transfer for you. You will pay about $.75 to $2.25 depending on length of trip. In SGD.

Stalls are mostly cash or Asian based pay apps. No Venmo or PayPal. I used PayLah, but unsure if you can link PayLah to non-SG banks. Worth it downloading and checking if you have time. Scan a QR code and pay style. Super easy.

Or get some cash. The SGD is worth about .75 USD, so it s a good exchange. Prices listed include tax unless otherwise noted. Restaurants will often list a piece with "plus plus" meaning 9% tax and 10% gratuity will be added.

Most stalls sell for for whole dollar or half dollar amounts. There is no equivalent to a penny and the 5 cent piece is going out of style. So, for instance, coffee will cost $1 or $1.10 or $1.20 depending on if it is sotong, O or C.

For reference


You can get cash at Changi but you will get a better exchange in the CBD. There is a place called the Arcade in Raffles Place. There are 20 plus money changers (misty on the 2nd floor). Where you can shop for rates. Bring crisp bills as they won't take anything torn, written on or two crumpled up.


Over all, misty places accept cashless payment. Credit cards and apps. Stalls rarely accept credit cards and some still are cash only. But almost everywhere else will take credit cards

[Ottime]

A block away from Shibuya Crossing, there is an exterior staircase to view from. This was our after lunch passive activity.






There is a lot of thoughtful design in Tokyo. Looking back toward Tower Records, the road dips to go under the railway. Above the railway is a two level pedestrian mall and park. If you lack park space, just build it higher.





At this point in our travels we were pretty tired, and opted for a mellow day. My wife and I walked north and stopped for a beer at Tap & Crowler. Great spot, and the woman drawing the beer was great to talk to. She had better English than our three words of Japanese and she was studying International Politics at university. We enjoyed our Japanese hazy IPAs and continued to Yoyogi Park. The park is a huge space and a respite from the hustle and volume of the rest of Shibuya.






The trees were wonderful. Of course it was all designed and planned and in such a way to make you feel like it was natural. It was cool in the park, at just around 27 degrees. Felt really nice for an afternoon walk.





We ate Kaitenzushi (conveyor bet sushi) for 3500 yen (yes, that is 3 people for less than $25) and my kid made plans to get a Dango and mapped us to this place in the basement of a mall. About 6000 square feet of all sorts of gorgeous sweets.




Dango is glutinous rice. There are several types, but this one is coated in sweetened, condensed soy sauce. I opted for sesame, and my wife ended up getting a matcha mochi. And from the super swank store, we dropped about 500 yen. For a major urban center, the food has been very reasonably priced.







I've been searching out the craft beer scene and this spot was right behind our AirBnB. I went inside to check it out, and they had plenty of good beer on tap, but I did not come to Asia to drink beer from Portland. 100% of their taps were Portland based breweries.

[Ottime]

In the morning we hoped on the subway to head out for the day. We got on the express and had to go back two stops on the local. There is no express in Singapore, so we were not used to checking for this. And in NYC, the express is different number or letter train. Here, it is line based, and you do need to check as the train arrives if it is local or express. My wife and kid discovered in Kyoto there is also the Limited Express - which goes even further. They ended up half way to Osaka trying to get home one night.




Our morning destination was Meiji Jingu. The Torii marks the line between the sacred and the rest of the world. Before entering, it is traditional to bow once, and pass through the gate off to one side. The road in the center is for spirits and deities.





Upon reaching the temple spaces, you should also find the temiyuza, or water spout to purify yourself before entering. First scoop water with a ladle held in your left hand and pour over your right and then reverse the process. Next, scoop water with your hands to wash you mouth. Spit the water out, it is not for drinking.






Meiji Jingu was built for the deity Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Building began in 1915, a few years after their deaths in 1912 and 1914 respectively. It was dedicated in 1921, so this is a fairly modern place at only about a century old. This pictured tree is a place where you can write your prayers on pieces of wood and hang them do be read by shinshoku (roughly a monk who cares for the shrine).






Emporer Meiji was a transformational figure who bitterly brought Japan into the 20th century. At time of his birth (1852) Japan was a isolationist feudal society. During his reign, he shepherded Japan through industrial, political and international revolution.

When approaching a temple, if you wish to perform a traditional severance to the deity, you can toss a coin (apparently a 5 yen piece is auspicious) into the wooden box, and then bow once. Clap you hands twice to announce your pretense and share your appreciation of an audience. Say a pray (not aloud) and finish with a bow.





This was another very busy temple space with several school groups and loads of western tourist. Still, again, there were plenty of Japanese and Shinto adherents visiting the space. These places are not just tourist sites, but are places of reverence.






Much of the construction is with cypress and copper. Much of the wood came from Nagano and Taiwan (at that point part of Japan), but materials came from all across Japan. The workmanship was something to admire.




Its funny haw a small fee can be an awesome thing. It cost my family 800 yen to enter and the place was mostly empty. Compared to the adjoining temple space, which is free to enter, there was no one around. It is lovely garden space, and for sure the small entry fee.





Kiyomasa's no Ido (well spring) has been in operation since the Edo Period (early 1600 to mid 1800). It is said to be a place of power, as it has been producing water for centuries. Named after the man who accinetly found the well while digging a basement fo this home. The water stays a cool 16C and feeds the nearby iris garden and south pond.

The iris garden is of good size, but we were wet behind peak bloom. Came in late May to early June for a wonderful display of color.






There were several of these creatures around. Although they were wet looking like salamander, we assume they are lizards s they were out baking in the sun. Not sure of the species, but I would not lick that skin.






Consecrated sake barrels near the entrance to the shrine. These barrels are offering from sake producers to the deities. Sake brings you closer to the gods. I can get behind a belief that inebriation lowers inhibition and allows you to better common with he spirit world.








Detail of a few of the barrels. There are also wine barrels nearby, given from European producers.

We ate at the nearby Restaurant Kaiseki. If in the area and hungry, I suggest giving it a try. 950 yen got me a great bowl of cold soba with mixed tempura. Hot soba would have been 50 yen less expensive.

[Ottime]

I really enjoy the order in Japan. Even your garbage is very ordered. You need to know if your rubbish is combustable or not. As my kid pointed out, they usually depends n the amount of heat applied.






We walked back home, with the first part through Yoyogi Park. This is a great space, especially for a run or a bike ride.





A Luke's Lobster Roll is cheaper here than in NYC. Lukes was founded by a Maine family living in NY. I've now seen one of these here in Tokyo and one in Singapore. And both had cheaper rolls than anywhere I know of in NYC or Maine. Just need to fly around the word for cheaper authentic lobster rolls.





This dude has seen innumerable temples this year, so it was time to enter a mall and go to a place they wanted to visit. Splatoon is one of there favorite games right now, so this was a must visit.





In their happy place. Bright lights, anime, video games and a open Switch to play on. It was fun to watch them interact with other gamers of all ages, sharing ideas and techniques.





Located in Shibuya Parco, the Nintendo store was just the largest retailer on a floor full of video game and anime outlets.





Afternoon coffee at Wavy. I read somewhere this was the best craft coffee in Tokyo. Unsure of what that meant, and in need of caffeine, I checked it out. Great place to get some Wifi, and enjoy a freshly brewed cup of fancy joe. They had over 20 beans to choose from.





After caffeine, I needed some hops. On my way I passed the Moncler store, in case I was in need of 1,600 yen down coat.





In the basement of the Parco, Izakaya Beer Boy was the call for hops. Crowea, a Hazy Pale Ale by Vertere (from Tokyo) hit the spot.




Izakaya Beer Boy is just a small shop, barely more than a stall, in the basement food level of the mall. Turned out it was a nice place to chill and grab a beer. For those keeping score, they do not have WiFi.






On 1F (first floor) I cruised by this shop that sold craft beer. They had some canned pints of Vertere, so I bought a beer from this guy. Perhaps my biggest cultural experience. to date. Have never bought a beer from a man in a lab coat and then have him wrap it in a protective foam layer.





The Casimiroa NEIPA was pretty amazing, and one of the best Asian beers I've had all year.






Shibuya at night. We headed out for a shabu shabby dinner for our last night before heading to Kyoto. Another wonderful meal in B2 (two levels below ground) at Aiseki-ya Shibuya.

[Ottime]

We boarded the Shinkansen to Kyoto. 450 kilometers in a little over 2 hours. Why can't we have trains like this in America?





We were staying in an area south of the Kyoto Station, near Tofoku-ju. It was not picturesque, but it was quit affordable and nothing it too far in Kyoto. We headed out to dinner our first night and ended up at a place we nicknamed Japanese Ponderosa. Actually called Washoku Sato. The food was great and we had out own room.






Then it was time for me to find my happy place. When I googled "craft beer near me" about thirty places popped up. Some of these had Guinness and Heineken on tap. I was looking for Japanese IPAs or Sours. The two places closest to me looked like they had a decent beer list. I visited Craft House Kyoto first and tried the Be Easy Brewing Heba! Mada! west coast IPA. It was a decent beer, but I was wanting something hazier and juicer.




Around the corner, and up an alley along a waterway (can't really call it a river, but it is the Takase River) is Kyoto Beer Lab. They brew their own beer on site, as well as several others. They have 8 taps. I sampled four of the beers during my time in Kyoto, and this became my go to spot for a later night (well, for a dad - last call is 10:30) beer. My standard was the Two Rabbits - Kyoto Brew Lab collaboration. Nelson's Naught Secret - an 8.5% DDH Oat Cream IPA. Again, one of my favorite beers in Asia. The Japanese for sure know how to refine.





We got a bit of a late start the next day. We had planned to rent bikes, but as we were chatting with the person at the rental place, he kindly told us we may not want to rent bikes this day and then showed us the forecast for rain in the coming hours. Notable, because back at home, there is no way someone would talk us out of giving them our money. We were hungry, so searched out the nearby well reviewed ramen joint. While this line was mostly tourist, it was mostly domestic tourist, so we felt like it was a good call.






The kitchen appealed to me. I feel pretty lucky that our kid is willing to try and eat most things. Ramen is basically noodle soup, and not so exotic, but I've spent time with a to of kids who would have had challenges finding food they wanted to eat during our past few weeks. Not this little dude. They to eat good foods.





Honke Daiichi-Asahi did not disappoint. In what became a common practice for us while in Kyoto, our order was taken while we were still waiting in line. Service was efficient, but not rushed. Food was great. Price was perfect at 650 yen per meal.





Then we hoped on a city bus and headed off to our first Kyoto shrine. I do appreciate how the SUICA and other IC cards worked every place we visited. Way better than figuring out every municipalities different pay system in the US. The only thing that could improve it is being like NYC, Sydney and Singapore, where you can just swipe your credit card. Busses were well used (read packed like sardines), but efficient and easy - and the people were so kind and polite. Even though it was tight, folks made way and made sure you could get off when your stop came.

A staircase along the road to the temple.





We started with familiar ground. A Buddhist temple, Kiyomizu-dera is located at the base of Mt. Ottawa.





The site dates back to the mid 8th century, but the current structures here were built in the 17th century. Basically the same time period as much of what we saw in Bangkok. It was interesting to noticed the similarities and difference between these Buddhist sites.





It was fairly crowded at this place, perhaps more so than the temples in Bangkok. Still, being so open and expansive, there were plenty of places to spread out, and even find a little quiet.








I've also become versed with finding angles to shoot that are not blocked by hordes of people.

[Ignatius]

Great question.

Public transit you can just swipe your credit card if it has a trip. Tap in/ tap out system. If you are transferring, it calculates the transfer for you. You will pay about $.75 to $2.25 depending on length of trip. In SGD.

Stalls are mostly cash or Asian based pay apps. No Venmo or PayPal. I used PayLah, but unsure if you can link PayLah to non-SG banks. Worth it downloading and checking if you have time. Scan a QR code and pay style. Super easy.

Or get some cash. The SGD is worth about .75 USD, so it s a good exchange. Prices listed include tax unless otherwise noted. Restaurants will often list a piece with "plus plus" meaning 9% tax and 10% gratuity will be added.

Most stalls sell for for whole dollar or half dollar amounts. There is no equivalent to a penny and the 5 cent piece is going out of style. So, for instance, coffee will cost $1 or $1.10 or $1.20 depending on if it is sotong, O or C.

For reference


You can get cash at Changi but you will get a better exchange in the CBD. There is a place called the Arcade in Raffles Place. There are 20 plus money changers (misty on the 2nd floor). Where you can shop for rates. Bring crisp bills as they won't take anything torn, written on or two crumpled up.


Over all, misty places accept cashless payment. Credit cards and apps. Stalls rarely accept credit cards and some still are cash only. But almost everywhere else will take credit cards

Thank you! I'm excited to get there. But first: lots of travel time...

[Ottime]

Long travel - but I've found coming so far is easier than moving just 2-7 time zones. The full flip of 9-15 time zones was a lot easier for me to adjust to. Especially if you have a flight that lands in the evening. Arrive tired from travel and get to the hotel and fall asleep. If you have the morning arrival, it is a bit more challenging, but can still be accomplished with relative ease. Enjoy your travels.

[Ottime]

Yukata and kimonos were quite common in Kyoto. They are often worn by domestic and foreign tourist. For the Japanese, this is a form of cultural appreciation and nor appropriation. This can open an entire topic of conversation - when is it appropriate to explore another culture through fashion and form, and when does it become offensive. I found the robes to be beautiful set against the local landscape, and was a little jealous of the men in the yukata when it was hot out. Although I was never jealous of those were traditional wood sandals.





A second before the shutter clicked, my kids umbrella was blocking the group of people behind them. So much for taking shots where the crowd is hidden. The lower part of Kiyomizu-dera was pretty crowded. Once you went past where they collected a few, it thinned out a good bit.




The city of Kyoto below is a mix of mundane, active urban and extremely quaint districts. The backdrop of mountains is gorgeous. I really enjoyed visiting the temples along the side of the city during our trip. We never got to any of the temples that are now within the urban space directly. I'm sure they are nice, but these places that border the city on one side and stretched into nature on the other felt somehow special.







It was moments like this when I wished we had a guide. I have no idea what this piece is. And while I wish I did know more, moving at your own pace, seeking out the places that interest you and walking quietly through a space also has its own appeal.






I was lining up a shot of the hillside when these two walked into the frame (I believe they were getting their picture taken by a family member) and I thought they added positively to the composition.






While a Buddhist temple, there were many Shinto aspects to the area. This shrine for sure has Shinto influence, and I believe this may be a shrine to Okininsushi, a deity that helps you find love in life. The space is near the main pavilion that overhangs the mountain side. It is said if you jump to the ground 13 meters below and survive, you would be granted a single wish. This was outlawed in the 19th century. Japan is much more concerned with safety today than in the past.






There were many locations to practice temizuya, or hand washing. This was one of the more simple options.







This shrine again felt like a mix of Shinto an Buddhist elements. I just loved all the robed stones.






Temizuya locations come in may shapes and forms. Some more intricate than others. I believe these are paper forms of Ema, where worshipers write prayers, wishes and offerings.






Another example of temizuya.






We followed a sign off the main route toward a temple for "painless birth." We never did find that, but we accessed some hiking trails up Mt. Otowa. This may have been one of my favorite parts the day. No one else around. Trail markers in just Japanese - not that we knew were we were going anyway, and random places to come across, like this cemetery. Along the way, we commented on how this felt like at the beginning of a Studio Ghibli film.






We eventually peaked out, high above the temple and city, to really nice views. It was an overcast day, so no photos of the horizon. But a bit before the top, we found this site just 20 meters off the trail. Totally worth the time and effort and loved getting bit of exercise. We were pretty stoked we were able to make a loop and did not get lost along the way. The entire mountain is considered sacred grounds, and you could almost feel the spirit of the place.






Back down in the main temple grounds, this was another stunning pagoda.

[Ottime]

At this point we were descending toward the exit of the temple grounds. There were still a few places to pass, including the waterfall that is the namesake foe the temple. You can queue up (it was quit long and we were fatigued, so passed) to pour water from a ladle and request a granting of you wish.




Mostly I enjoyed the bright red and greens.







Back into the city, the roads leading to and from the temple are picturesque and sloped. We actually were quite lucky with our travel weather. This was one of the two rainiest moments during our time Japan, after I heard so much waring about the heat, humidity and rain. You did not even really need tot use an umbrella or poncho this day, just an occasional light drizzle. Maybe at moments it was a heavy drizzle, but not bad at all. And if you got a little wet, you just felt better because it was plenty warm out. While it did get hot on the sunnier days, these low ceiling days were very pleasant. And on the hot days, the humidity was rarely more than 65%, so really not terrible.







The streets were very touristy and loaded with shops, especially sweets. I liked this chestnut joint. My kid enjoyed a matcha sesame soft serve twist that was very good. I saved room for my beer later.











Sannen-zaka Path is one of the older streets in Kyoto. Compared to where we were lodged, this area was super cute. Over all, I was happy with how our lodging worked out, as we paid about $90 a night for a 2 bedroom apartment. We were a short walk from Tofu-ju Station and maybe a 12 minute all to Kyoto Station - and public transit via bus or train was very easy.







We walked the ancient town area. Mostly lined with more tourist shops. The stores call out to you and offer samples of snacks and food. Way better than Costco dim sum. We mostly wanted to walk around and check out the scene and narrow streets.






The road around here is interrupted in areas by staircases. Kyoto is built in a river valley surrounded by mountains and we were for sure in the foothills.





This was a highlight of the day for my kid. We were unable to secure tickets to Studio Ghibli for our time in Tokyo. When we turned down the famously narrow Ichinen-Zaka St, we stumbled upon Donguri Kyowakoku - the Ghibli Store. We enjoyed checking out the wares, and found a travel Totoro travel pillow with hood. Kid was super stoked we made them walk these narrow streets.





Endless temples. Looking north to Kona-ji.






And east toward Ryozen. But we were done for the day and hashed out some plans to meet my brother in law for dinner. He joined us for this visit in Japan. It worked out great. He was mostly enjoying his days exploring and then would meet up for dinner and occasionally beers.







Like I said, the city buses are well utilized. This is what the majority of our rides looked like, but I was struck with how polite and helpful everybody was. Even us American tourists were compelled to make space for others and go out of our way to be helpful. It is contagious, especially I the more crowded places.






We met for dinner in Kyoto Station. I've got to say, I ate more good food in this train station than any airport tor train station in the US. Conveyor belt sushi again, as my BIL was intrigued. We had to sit separately, so my kid got some uncle time. We were just around the corner and watched as they selected the corn and mayo Kanazawa Maimon Sushi in Kyoto Porto is underground. Again, a good place to eat. When we finished and started our walk home it was dark and the Kyoto Tower is lit up.







My wife and kid really took to the convenience stores in Japan. 7-11 was the winner, but Family Mart and Lawsons were well received. I liked the later, because that is where I bought my eggs for breakfast. They enjoyed stoking of on all sorts of snacks. The dried squid was the line though. Even I was limited to one bite of squid very - head and all. When I did open this, about 30 feral cats began to swam. And my backpack will never smell the same.

[Ottime]

Another day, another temple. Chinowa-Kuguri is a Shinto ceremony to wash away your kegare (impurities) from your semi (sins, or misdeeds). It is often performed around New Year or mid summer. You walk through the ring of grass three times, bowing before each entry. The first time through, you loop background by going left, then right the second time and then left the third time making a figure eight.




We visited another busy temple this day. Fushimi Inari - taisha; famous for its pathway of Torii. But first we had to defeat a number of Pokemon to enter the sacred space.





Seriously, walking around these Kyoto temples, I finally understand how the game and its characters were imagined.






This temple housed a unicorn. At least it looked much more like a unicorn than other images of the Kirin I have seen. More horse and less wildcat faced. There were several worshippers nearby who prayed and bowed at the temple. I am sure they knew more, but my Japanese is terrible.






As we entered the beginning of the Torii pathway, a pair of Kannushi walked by. They are also referred to at Shinshoku - meaning employees of god.

[Ottime]

The lower parts of the temple we very crowded. But if you waited, and then walked the right pace, you could get time where it kind of felt like you were all alone.






Or with just hanging with your friends. I did take a ton of pictures, but this walkway of Torii is miles long, and it was fun to walk in silence and contemplate our being in the world. I feel so fortunate for these past months. Its been a bit of eleven now, and if feels like a stroke of luck to have had these experiences. I really could nat ask for more in a year of my life. It was hard at times. Like very hard. But the good times were incredible. I turned 50 this year, and what a milestone gift this time has been.






My kid chose the perfect outfit for this day. Torii Camo.





For another Ghibli moment, we took a small path that left the main path to a temple in the bamboo forest.






More Pokemon guarding the shrine. This was a small spot along our way deeper into the forest.





This was the first time I had ever seen an actual bamboo forest. It stretched out as far as I could see with basically just bamboo growing and waving in unison I the breeze. My kid and I began joking around. "Chihiro, don't cling to me like that. You'll make me trip."





After about a kilometer, we made it back to this very quiet shrine.





The entire time walking around this complex, we saw two groups of two. They also seemed to be enjoying the solace and talked in hush tones the few times they spoke.





This temple had a shinshoku in attendance, but he remained hidden inside one of the shrines, mostly behind a curtain.






This place felt older and less polished than the main temple, and the smaller shrines along the Torii pathway. With good bit more moss.






It was also built into the hilly landscape, giving a very cool feel to the space. At times looking down, up or across the shrine.






This particular spot made me feel like if I moved the right (or wrong) item, I would awaken a spirit.




Soon, we were back out with the masses along the main pathway. My kid had read there were more than a thousand Torii along the way. This is gate number 1000. We now estimate there are 10x that many.. They are each sponsored by a corporation, for which the company gets good luck.

[Ottime]

Soon, you begin to climb up Mt Inari, with many many shrines and temples along the way.





Some I found more interesting, like this space with its crazy candles burning despite the misty conditions.






As you climb more and more stairs, it became less and less crowded. Not everyone has the spiritual where with all to climb a mountain.






We were also feeling a bit fatigued about 2/3 of the way up. It was noon, and we found a very cute place to grab lunch. The beverage in the beautiful blue glass is Hiyasi-ame. Considered healthy, it was made from malt sugar and ginger. Refreshing and super sweet.

The green beverage is matcha. Green in SE Asia is usually pandan. Here, it is usually matcha. A little caffeine buzz never hurt on a walk up a mountain.







The restaurant was a cantilever structure hanging off the mountain with city views below. When we came in, we were the first customers for lunch. It was expensive compared to eating in town, but the food, service and views were stunning. Our meal and drinks came to about 3300 yen, so less than $25. I think we made the idea of a meal appealing, as by the time we were finished, there were four other groups eating. Although I noticed it was only Japanese, which made me feel like I was not in a tourist trap.






I could easily spend some time like this. It was a much needed break for my kid. More from temple-ing and less from climbing. But a respite, and a fun meal.






Their udon looked good.






My dish was pretty damn good for sure. Food here is simple and complex all at once. I really have enjoyed my recent food adventures.




I did not get a sample of that udon. Notice the hat turned backwards to set them up for perfect broth sipping

[Ottime]

Onward and upward. This area was packed and tight with shrine stuff. We had it pretty much to ourselves, as it was an out and back section off the main pathway. We did not come up this way on purpose, but gave us perhaps an additional 150 feet of vertical to our day. Exercise and cool little places work for us. We also found a cool vista to the city below. Pictures of Kyoto did not really come out well due the low ceiling and mist. The only real rain this day happened when we were eating lunch, so that was lucky timing. Also this offshoot eventually Brough us to a road, which helped explain how al the food and supplies got up to this location. I was wondering if the shop owners had to carry everything up.







We also found this giant earthworm. Again, it might be a spirit or god.






Back on the main path, we circumnavigated Inari Peak. It was very quiet at this point, with few other tourist around, and not many worshippers. And there were several really cool shrines to check out along the way.







Wish I had gotten better focus oaths guy. Or checked anyway. Super cool jade colored sculpture and fountain.





We continued to climb and wrap around the peak. The main temples at the base are old. The first structures were built in the 9th century, and the current main temples built just before the start of the 16th century. Not Siem Reap old, but some of the older things we have see for a few weeks.






Eventually the trail will bring you to a temple space near the peak of Inari. It is not a super tall mountain by any means, at 233 meters. But it is still a decent climb from town which sits at 30 meters above sea level. Add in the several ups and downs, and we climbed and descended about 750 feet over 3 miles.

[Ottime]

Running up old, wet, slippery, uneven stairs I the rain is load of fun.





If you get out to Inari, make the effort to get to the upper reaches. It is really not that far, but is is too far for 95% of the visitors here, and it is a whole different place than the main temple at the base.



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The Torii act like tunnels allowing the shrines to shine even on an overcast day.




This was our favorite dude. Kitsune, or white foxes, is believed to be the animal avatar of the god Inari, to whom this shrine and entire mountain are dedicated to. Even my lunch included two pieces of Inarisushi, rice wrapped n a slightly sweetened tofu skin. Inari is the god of rice, tea and sake - the triangle of Japanese food culture.

I just enjoy this Kitsune's hat of moss.

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We peaked. The shrine at the center of Inari was great, but indistinct. We made an offering, bow, clapped, prayed and bowed. And then headed down the mountain.



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You are able to make a sort of loop, with a short section in the middle as an out and back. It was nice to get some exercise while being a tourist. We also noticed the trail to the base that does not go directly to the main shrine was less crowded, but everything downhill from our lunch spot at the intersection if the upper loop was pretty busy.



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Almost all the way down, and off to the side, was this Buddhist shrine. It almost felt like a - just in case - spot. Cover your bases. Fushimi Inari-taisha is for sure a shinto shrine, but here is an element of Buddhism.



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Then it was time for a snack. We ended up with coffee and ice cream, but these guys looked tasty.

[Ottime]

In the evening, we headed north toward Gion, one of the Geisha Districts of Kyoto for a free walking tour.





The area is nice to walk around, and feels more traditional Japanese than the area we are lodged in.




This building has an interesting history. It was bought and turned into a Hard Rock Cafe. Because of its location in this district, it was zoned such that the exterior facade could not be changed and had to maintain its historical style. This was in 2020. It failed, in part, because the Japanese and local community had no interest in supporting a HRC and in part because many who went looking for it could not find its location. Kyoto really missed out n its chance for some iconic American rock burgers.





Our tour mostly focused on the life of Geisha. It is a unique career and have tried to wrap my head around it. First, it is something that is encouraged by the government as part of maintaining Japanese culture.





Geisha are not prostitutes, as has been sometimes portrayed. Rather, they are highly trained entertainers of traditional Japanese arts. There is this weird part, though, in how they have been traditionally gained their employment. A young geisha in training is called maiko. Maiko live in a okiya, basically a geisha training dormitory.





Along our walk, we stopped in Kennin-ji Temple. So mark another temple off the list.




The okiya controls the Maiko's life. The kami-son (house mother) ensures their training, and hires the girls out nearly every night and train daily. They get two nights off, and earned about $200 per month. That is spending money for days off. The okiya houses, feeds and provides for clothing - which is very expensive. This arrangement can last for many years.





Geisha work in tea houses, where they can meet potential clients. The tea houses are private clubs and member only. You can enter a tea house, but only if you are brought in by an exiting member. It is all very secret society. Tea houses are run by retired geisha and help protect the mystery of the entire program.





This is one of the tea house. No descent entrance and quiet. You can identify the houses by the black plaque to the right of the entrance way.






Maiko training schedule on the side of the building. This is where you'd come each month to check the posted course work for the coming weeks.

[Ottime]

After years of training, the maiko become gaiko. The gaiko wear more muted colors and wigs, as opposed to the bright kimono and adorned hairstyles of the maiko. They can also move out on their own, and get into relationships. Geisha must retire to marry, but they are able to have children and keep working. The maiko also get to keep what they earn, but must then maintain their own wardrobe and home.



Kanzashi, or hair pins, are just one example of expanse. This shop sells only the hair pins that geisha would use. They start for about 20,000 yen for something simple and I saw ones for 65,000, which is about $450. I was told they have pins in the shop for over 200,000 yen.





We saw a few geisha heading out to work on our walk. This woman was about to duck into the tea house to her right. It is the largest in Kyoto. There were also a number of gentlemen, usually political or business higher ups, arriving in their dark windowed cars. The clients and geisha will meet inside the tea house, with girls selected by the tea house manager to be introduced to men base don their tastes. The woman are hired by the hours. In that hour, she will typically dance for 15 minutes and then perform a tea ceremony. After that they may chill, talk, play parlor or drinking games or perform other arts.





The tea houses do not have kitchens. Just teas, whiskey, and beer. Occasionally win and other liquor. They will know their members tastes and order out food from their favorite restaurants. You could see dudes in white clothes, on bikes, delivery food all over Gion at this hour.











We too got hungry and waited for a table at Gion Tanto, and ozonemiyaki joint. It was full of tourist from the west and the east. But is was still very good. My kid really enjoyed eating cooking their food on the flat skillet.






The location was quaint. We looked out onto the river and the Tasumibashi Bridge.






This is the oldest Kabuke Theatre in Kyoto. You can come here to attend shows featuring geisha.




The riverbanks were alive as night fell in town. This place really livens up at night, and Canberra pretty sleepy during the day. I imagine in part because all the tourist are out touristing all day, and come back into town hurry and thirsty at night.





We walked by Kyoto Beer Lab on our way home. I sent my wife and BIL out, and walked the kid back to our lodging. Grabbed a "take away" beer first.

[Ottime]

The rain and clouds cleared, so we hired bikes for the day. We rented from Kyoto Cycling Tour Project. They were fairly hands off, and not super helpful at set up. OTOH, they had a great website presence and handy cycling map that got us off to a good start out of the city center. We had talked with Rental Bicycle Koyott ECO Tour the other day, and he was super helpful in person. Would try out that shop next time. Both shops are 5 minutes walk from Kyoto Central Station. Soon out of the shop we passed Nishi Hongan-ji, a temple in the middle of the urban zones.





What we were hoping for was just a few miles away. We biked for several miles along the Katsura River and its flood plane.





Our goal was the Arishiyama district north along the river. You can hire one of these if you are interested. The men pulling these things had legs like tree trunks - and this coming from a guy who bikes thousands of miles a year.




A glimpse into Tenryu-ji. but we were off looking for lunch. This part of tow was super busy and the first few places we scouted out had waits of 30-70 minutes. And it was all westerners in line, so we kept looking.





The views along the way were just fine. Even the less grand gardens are well attended here.






And the riding was pretty nice.





Arishiyama Station is picturesque.








My kid led us to Kameyamaya, which turned out great. A short wait, quiet indoor, shoeless with A/C and a view of the river, boats and mountains. Food was good and reasonably priced as well. Ordered the gyudon and a Kyoto beer. Beer tasted like any typical Japanese light beer to me. Gyudon was very good.





From there we walked dup in the Arishiyama Bamboo Forest. Its pretty thick and tall. Would love to visit here early in the morning or late in the day and try to get it solo. It is striking, but was much more crowded than the forest we found on Inari,

[Ottime]

This shot would have been with lunch but the edit feature was not my friend. Boating above the damn on the river.






We had parked our bikes just south of Tenryu-ji, so we paid the 1300 yen entry fee and took a walk through the gardens. I loved this space. It was way less crowded than the adjacent bamboo forest (although there were still plenty of people) and the garden space was so well designed so there was always a new view or corner to discover.





Agains, the rented kimono is a splash of color against see of green.





Wishing wells have been pretty common in our travels through Thailand and Japan. They usually involve a little skill, or luck, to land you coin the right spot. Here it is a dishing front of the frog.






The walkways wind and climb through the garden, offering views in every direction. I enjoy the shrine framed by green below and above.





t is hard to capture the tranquility of this place. Even with many other humans milling bout, the created space is stunning and calming.






Love me some raked stone and pond combo. Tenryu-ji is a zen buddhist temple. Built in 1339 by the shogun Takauji, it was dedicated to the recently deceased emperor Go-Diago. They were enemies at the time of death, but Takauji wanted to politically appease Go-Diago's followers as the shogun attempted to gain control of Japan.





Most of the garden and structures were lost multiple times from fire and the rages of war. Most of the structures standing today date back to the Meiji period, like the shinto shrine we saw back in Shibuya. It is east to spot the similarities.







Through the temple and back on our bikes we headed northwest. We started on a small road that runs along the railway. The first few miles of the ride were on quiet streets with no cars, few pedestrians and only two motorbikes. Great riding through the city. The train caught up with us though. I am amazed at the train system here. I also think about how many American's would complain about noise and ugliness of train lines running through our cities and countryside.

[Ignatius]

Just a quick note to mention that I am totally loving Singapore. Especially the food. I haven’t had a restaurant meal yet, been eating like a king (or maybe pig?) and digging the scene. Lots of good walking around. Botanical gardens are great, orchid section is super great (I generally dig on botanical gardens when traveling…). The time slot I had in mind for biking ECP etc turned into drinking beer with colleagues, due to rains, but that was enjoyable too. People are really nice, I’m finding, even when I’m the ignorant foreign idiot. Subway is great and super easy (I love the credit card tap-in, tap-out, thing — that’s how it should work everywhere….). Too bad my daytime time now is mostly tied up with work stuff.

The flight here wasn’t bad. I kinda enjoy having a flight long enough to have a decent block of sleep or attempted sleep but also eat the meals, drink some wine, and watch a movie or two.

Thank you Ottime for the tips, and I hope your Japan time continues to be awesome. Sure looks that way so far.

[Ignatius]

Oh: do you have any hot tips for souvenirs / gifts for folks back home? I haven’t see a whole lot so far that seems like an interesting thing to get for my wife, but might like to head home with something more than just photos and stories of food. I should try to seek out local crafts of some sort, I guess.

[Ottime]

I'd head over to Joo Chiat.

There is not a lot made in SG, and not really a street craft scene - no way you could live off selling bracelets to tourist.

If you head to Geyland Serai Hawker Center to get some food - huge selection of Malay Halal stalls, and then had south.

After walk south on Joo Chiat Road. There are a bunch of little shops. My wife hates cats but went into and bought a bunch of stuff in Cat Socrates. She claimed reasonable prices and good product.

Joo Chiat is the heart of Paranakan neighborhoods - basically the mix of Malay/Indo and south Chinese culture, with a little Indian and Arab blend thrown in. There is some pretty cool street art, especially for SG. I'd look for something that like Paranakan tile or fabric patterns. Its really the most SG thing there is. Or bring her home plates of Nasi Lemak and Prawn Sotong Mee.

If you get over that way, stop into Dunman Hawker Center when you get across Dunman Road (it will be on your right a few doors, when facing south). The Vadai there are die die must try.

Other than that, I cannot think of souvenirs other than tea cups. Those white and green ones you often get Kopi or Teh in at the market are pretty SG.

Glad you are enjoying it. I really think SG has a lot to offer, especially great food choices. Back home in Santa Cruz, trying to land back into real life after 348 days out of the country. Still. more (way too many temple) pics to post, but that might take a while while I get my feet under me here.

[MyNameIsAugustWest]

Welcome home. This has also been a great journey for those of us following along. Thanks again for including us.

[Ignatius]

Thank you, Ottime! Great info, once again.

Best of luck settling back into US life. Good thing SC is a pretty nice place to be…