10 Months in Equatorial Singapore

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The view from bed. The motor starts up around 5:55AM, the anchor pulls up and you are cruising through the channels. Not a terrible way to wake up in the morning.


From the balcony. From whence we came. We were not alone out there


Day two we were out on the smaller day boat, sailing around Cat Ba island. It is really some of the most gorgeous waterways I've ever experienced in my life. It is a relaxing passage through calm glassy waters with amazing views along the entire way.




It is cool herein winter, but bundle up with a blanket, stretch out on a chaise lounge and relax.




The islands are mostly limestone with some granite. Only a few of the larger islands have any soil at all, but it does not keep trees from driving roots into the stone and finding moisture. The dry season here is short - only a few months during the coldest months, so there is not a lot of loss of water. Still, shocking how vegetated these steep, rocky islands are.



I shot a few time lapse of our cruise and may try to post them up later, but the landscape both change and remains the same for mile after mile. It is not boring.



Local fishing vessel, with a chopstick island.



We later returned to this bay for some kayaking. In the distance you can see plenty of small sandy beaches, with a number of smaller caves. You may also notice how the water cuts away at the bottom of the cliffs, creating overhangs that stretch-out for 5-20 feet.



Talk about moving homes. The village we visited on Cat Ba has about 400 residence, but at any given time more than half of them are out on the bay, living and fishing. Some stay in their boats, while others have floating homes. This team was changing locations of the home, as they were likely changing fishing grounds. The government regulates the fishery, and locations change based on dates. Most of these boat homes never leave the open waters.



The last strait to pass, as we headed into the harbor for our port, Ben tau Viet Hai, in the south of Cat Ba Island.

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We biked about 5km on roads on fixed speed bikes. The roads were a mix of old asphalt, gravel, and a new section of super smooth concrete that went through a tunnel in the rock. The tunnel was just long enough, that midway through, you could see next to nothing, other than the exit. It was a pretty nice ride with a group from the boat to Viet Hai, where we learned a bit about village life, tried rice wine (tasted more like cheap whiskey), checked out a typical mud hut, ate snacks and took our turns crossing the local bridge. Ultimately, it was a village in the jungle. I wished I thought of taking a picture of the Main Street, but there was not much to see. A few eateries catered toward cruise tourist, thatched and mud huts, plenty of dogs and some kids.


Back on the boat, I tried a Halong Sapphire to go with my set lunch of Vietnamese goodness. This was our favorite meal on the cruise, basically as it was basic Vietnamese cuisine - nothing trying to be fancy. Just plain good food.


One of the best things about meals on these boats is they make sure you are out cruising and the scenery keeps changing. This is one of a few homesteads built on these islands before 1994, with the intent of being destination. The government put the abash on that, trying to keep the area from being over run. For sure, there are a ton of cruise boats out on the bay, but the tourist are mostly kept off these rather fragile islands. I think it was the right call. While it would be awesome to stay on this beach with my family, for sure over time the area would get trashed. There is also the issue of water availability. And human waste.



Honestly, it is hard to do any justice to this place. These pics capture so little of the beauty. While a 2 day cruise in Halong is not cheap by VietNam measure, it is reasonable compared to a lot of US based adventures. If ever in this part of the world, and have a few days to spare, I highly suggest visiting the area.


My favorite times were when we got out of the ships and into the kayaks. We had this area essentially to just our boat. I think there were maybe 8 kayaks out and about, paddling around an area seven kilometers square. This zone had a lot of areas where you could beach craft, and go for a walk.




Wife and child negotiating a strait. By this outing, they were able to paddle nicely in synch.




These notches were not uncommon. Not really a full cave, and the rock here is maybe 10m deep. Still, it was shallow, with rock out crossings, low head room, and boat waves and current moving through it. Pick you line carefully.



Finding the line. Kid was super stoked on this one.




Checking out the handy work. This outing, we had almost two hours to paddle, and we covered a lot of ground. We visited four different beaches and traversed large bodies of water. It also felt great to get some exercise.




Our final beach stop. We picked up a bit of trash and hauled it back to the boat. The crew was gracious, but I wonder what they did with our collected trash. You could always find some, to a decent amount of flotsam trash washed up to the high tide/storm line. We made a suggestion of offering tourist garbage bags to fill to remove trash from the shore line. Wonder if that will be added to future tours. Would be awesome if they did, as it is such a bummer to see all the trash that accumulates along shorelines.



Chopstick Island, in Chopstick Cove, near Choptstick Beach.



On our way back to the big boat, we passed a few of these cuts in the rock, exposing a whole other set of water ways just on the other side. You could spend weeks here exploring all of the different routes, especially with a small boat or kayak.

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Signage is not just an SG thing. I like the reminder to non married couples to not mack on the trail. Respect Vietnamese modesty.


Trung Trang cave is up the mountain side about 150 steps. It is cut through the stone and is about 200m long through the main passage.


The formations inside are typical cave style crystals and stalagmite and stalactites. Its been a while since I've been in a drylands cave. What was noticeable is how it was warmer inside the cave than outside. This may be due to the lighting, or the mass of humanity touring through. Offering sites were spread throughout the interior.


These reminded me of baleen


More whale mouths. We were with a group from our boat, followed by another group behind us. It was shocking to me, how some of the group behind pushed pass me, as if it were a race to get through the cave. Travel around the world, drive for hours, get out on a boat for a few more, another bus ride and then rush through a cave. So weird to me, but I guess I'm just slow and like to look around.



Even more baleen.


These looked more like jaws and teeth. The teeth are crystals.




Ben pho Gia Luan - Ferry Terminal Gia Luan. Otherwise known as the Tourist Wharf, this is the main access to Cat Ba Island from the north. After this we were back to the boat, packing our bags, eating brunch and taking the transfer back to the mainland and back to Ha Noi. And some amazing food.

[hawkgt]

I appreciate you sharing the experiences. Spent alot of time the region in the late 90's. Man it looks like it has changed so much.

[Kevin_Szcz]

Nice pics

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One of our very best decisions of this trip was signing up with Ha Noi Kids - a tour outfit that connects yo with local university students that want to practice their English. Very highly suggested. They were super nice, personable, and fun to hang out with - and they were great with our kid. If is free - all you need to do is pay for the tour guides food and/or entrance fees. We scheduled a food tour for our first night back in the city, after a morning of travel. We met them near the Puppet Theatre and they took us to New Nuong Nha Trang Que Hoa. They have one dish (more on this soon) and you tell them how many orders you want. We ordered three, which was a good amount of food for the five of us - and so fucking delicious. Basically, you roll you own spring rolls with minced pork sausage, lettuce, basil, cilantro, cucumber, fried rice paper, tofu, and pineapples. Yum. Oh, and this for 105,000 VND ($4.35 USD)


Cat and Diep were amazing guides. Honesty, the guides from this group have been the best thus far in our trip. They taught our kid how to make the hand sign for "home", as it is a traditional sign of welcoming. Very warm human beings. I can't say enough positive things about these two, and our guide from the next day. I was a little skeptical of the idea when we were booking, but a full on believer by the end.


The fruit stands in Ha Noi are simply gorgeous. It is kind of amazing. Singapore is a sanitized city, but the markets never look this pretty, organized or clean. Part if it may just be the freshness of the fruit, having not had he need of being shipped. Part of it may be the pride the Vietnamese take in their own shops. Maybe it is how easy it is to look clean against the backdrop of a an otherwise dirty city street. But the fruit always looked amazing.




This picture is out of order, but I'm too lazy to change it. Bingsu is Korean, but we saw a far amount of stores while walking around Ha Noi. It is also very yummy. A bed of shaved ice, with coconut milk and condensed milk, and topped with fruit. We opted for mango, and it came with coconut frozen yogurt. A huge portion with plenty for three for 65,000 Dong, or about $2.60 USD. Did I mention food here is cheap - and this is in the big city, in the tourist district.



There are railroad tracks that pass through the city. They pass through alleyways through much of the city, and in this district, cafes and coffee shops have opened up along the train tracks. When the trains come through, patrons must stand up along the edge walls and the shop owners quickly pull the tables and chairs, to allow the train to pass. We were going to walk through this area on the way to dinner one night, but you cannily enter if you are going to stop at one of the shops along the tracks. Technically, these shops are illegal, and still, there is a state guard that limits your entry unless you visit one of these illegals shops.




The next day we met up with Ha Noi Kids again, to take a tour of Van Mieu, the Temple of Literature and Ha Loi Prison (Hanoi Hilton). The Temple of Literature is a Confucian temple dedicated to learning and education. Students come here to pray for success on examinations and to relay thanks after having done well. Originally built in 1070, it housed the first national university of Vietnam, the Imperial Academy. The Great Portico was rebuilt in the 20th Century, but the two carved dragon guarding the entry are dated as 15th Century. Above the central door, carved in wood sits Confucious and his 4 advisors - a typical arrangement.


Khue Van Pavillon separates the Nhap Do Courtyard (Entrances to the Way) and Thanh Dat Courtyard (Gaining the Success). Built in 1805, it is colored red, such when the sun shines through it, it bleeds a red hue on the Well of Heavenly Brilliance in Thanh Dat. The pool serves several purposes, one of which as a mirror for students to check their appearance before entering the inner sanctums of the temple. This gate is a Vietnamese icon and featured on the 100,000 VND bill.




The next courtyard contains the Garden of Stone Stales. 82 of these remain. Stelae (stone slabs, like tombstones) stand upon the backs of turtles. The turtle is one of four sacred animals in Vietnam. They represent longevity, strength and intelligence. The stelae are inscribed with the names of the most honored students to graduate (what we would call valedictorian) from the years 1442 to 1779, and the persons who would go one to be the current emperor's most trusted advisors. Many of the turtle heads are rubbed smooth from centuries of students rubbing their heads for good luck. This practice is no longer permitted.




The turtles at the base were carved over several centuries and you can see how representation of the turtle changed over time. Some are more realistic, others very simple or impressionistic, while others are caricature - including several with eye brows and mustaches. Our guides for this portion, Trung and Cat were also fantastic. 89 of the slabs have been preserved in the current temple.



The Dai Thanh Sanctuary, or Great Success is the courtyard and contains the Great House of Ceremony. We just happened to be present for a group of students praying for success in their exams. The ceremony happens as tourist (both foreign and domestic) mingle in the temple. They stand before an alter, guided by a teacher. Either side of the alter there is a crane standing atop a turtle. The crane is not one of the four sacred animals (the other three are Dragon, Phoenix, and Chinese Unicorn - so the turtle is the only non-mythical beast), but still holds a special place in Vietnam. It also represents longevity and commitment (they live a while and mate for life).



Only about 20% of Vietnamese practice organized religion. The largest group are Buddhist, with Christians (most of those Catholics) secondary. Confucianism is the dominant force here, but it is not really a religion - It lacks a church, bible or religious hierarchy. It is best to consider it a philosophy. While ancestors, and Confucius, are worshipped, that is a poor way to describe it. Ancestors are revered and prayed to for guidance, as opposed to treating them like gods. Perhaps it is similar to praying to saints in the Catholic tradition. The ideals of Confucianism tend to effect many parts of life in Vietnam, including the law. It centers around self improvement, and dedication to the community, to it is one natural that the country is a one party socialist republic. Anyway, Confucianism is for sure evident where ever you go, with alters everywhere, and symbols inter-mingled with both eh Buddhist and Catholic religions.





The final courtyard is the Thai Hoc Courtyard, and is home to Vietnams first university. The first story is dedicate to Chu Van An - the very best student of all time (quite an honor) of Vietnam. His story is interesting, as he worked as an advisor for the emperor, and after realizing that several of his other advisors were corrupt, he demanded their execution. The Emperor refused, so Chu Van A quite, and opened a school to educate students on clean and pure thought - so they could be highly educated and not tempted into corrupt ways. He is well revered. Pictured here is Ly Thahn Tong who founded the Temple of Literature and Ly Nahn Tong who founded the National Academy. These are people, or ancestors to worship, in the Confucius tradition, as they represent some of the very best of forefathers.


Trung was super knowledgable, and again, I would suggest looking up Ha Noi Kids if you ever find yourself in town and looking for guides. They absolutely want chat with you and improve their English skills, so you can learn a lot about the places you visit, as well as lot about Vietnam and local life in general. Just ask. Trung was off to his final class of his final year of University and we wish him much luck and a good future. He was a Chinese major, so was able to help our kid practice a little of their Mandarin on this day.

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Next we were off to Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton). The prison was constructed by the French to house political prisoners who agitated for independence. It was crowded, and horrific. Prisoners where shackled by the feet, in rows in the block cells. Some had both feet shackled if they were problematic. Torture, abuse, unsanitary conditions, and poor food were common. Vietnamese commonly hid political papers in the pit toilets, and the comrade philosophy ran strong inside the prison. Sixteen prisoners escaped via the sewer lines in 1951. After that, the French installed rebar spikes in the sewer system that would cut any inmate who attempted escape in the future. The were two guillotine used at Hoa Lo, and at least 16 known executions. The French would require attendance to these public executions, and the heads would be put on display to warn other inmates to remain compliant.



Much of the story today at the museum today is about the suffering of the Vietnamese under the French. After the French were removed from Ha Noi in 1954, the prison was utilized by the Communist Party in Vietnam. Most well known for us Americans, was the detention of American pilots during the war. The museum has a very small section dedicated to this, and describes an almost idyllic detainment, where Americans were fed well, served beer, played volleyball, raised their own chickens for protein, and provided much need medical care. This, for sure, is what we call propaganda. Other parts dedicated to the American War depict school children in bomb shelters not deterred from their education and the communist ideals not being driving from the Vietnamese during the French Imperialist reign. It is for sure an interesting place to visit, and such a contrast to the Temple of Literature. This photo is of one of the solitary rooms in the women's section of the prison from the French period; the walls were tarred black to make the space even more foreboding to be left inside. The only light came from a 6cm square window to the courtyard.




Only the gatehouse remains, as the prison was taken down in the 1990s. It is oddly peaceful there today, and well worth a visit. You get both a bit of history and a bit of propaganda, and a reminder the long history of Vietnam. I'll get into that in a bit, as Vietnam has seen thousands of years of war, and it has really been only my lifetime that they have been free of incursion by foreign powers. It is really no wonder that the Viet Cong were both dominate and victorious during the American War of Vietnam Conflict - depending on which words you prefer.



We walked to lunch. How Lo abuts the French Quarter, that abuts the Old Quarter. Hoan Kiem Lake Park abuts all of these areas, and is a lovely walk. The air in Ha Noi was terrible, with readings above 170-200 AQI during our visit. You can see the air ihaze n this picture. I've really never been is such thick smog, and it was hard on our lungs for sure. We loved our few days in Ha Noi, but not sure how long we could endure.



The Red Bridge out to Den Ngoc Son Temple. This lights up very nicely at night, and is close to where we enjoyed the roll your own spring rolls ground pork croquettes.






Our first Bahn Mi of the trip. A typical scene for our family. Food and reading and relaxation.




On our walk back to the hotel we passed St Joseph's Cathedral.




Ha Noi has loads of quite side streets, which are a nice reprieve from the bustling streets. While it is a right hand side traffic state, there are cars, motorcycles, scooters and bicycles on both sides of the street and all over the sidewalks. Traffic lights are optional (not technically). It really is pure chaos, but somehow, there are few accidents. This can also describe the traffic elsewhere but it is so dense in Ha Noi, it can be a bit much. And loud, as everyone is using their horn nearly all the time. To cross the street, you basically look both directions and start crossing in a straight line at a steady pace - and make it across - you do not wait for break in traffic, as that will simply never come. So, these side streets, are quite nice and full of hidden gems.

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The Ministry of Defense has two sections. One is public park celebrating the Vietnamese military. Just in case you forget you are in a old school communist country, you can come here to visit.




The National Assembly. Got serious vibes here.




Ho Chi Minh wished to be cremated upon his death, int he Vietnamese tradition. His comrades thought otherwise. If Lenin and Stalin, get embalmed, so does Ho Chi Minh. Vietnamese line up each day, in proper formal dress, to get a chance to see the body. We had to go through a security check to be admitted tot he grounds. You are not allowed to loiter, and at this hour, must move through. It is located next to the Presidential Palace, which was mansion built by the French. A gorgeous building you are not permitted to photograph.




The oldest pagoda in Hanoi, Chua Tran Guac, is located on Ho Tay (West Lake). It was stunning at night. Ha Noi is littered with lakes, which is a nice break from the otherwise sprawling city.




Walking around West Lake in the evening, we found this quieter street lined with lanterns and coffee shops.




This district was on a peninsula jutting out into the lake. Lots of eateries and felt like the party district for the younger crowd.




The French left a love fro good coffee and good bread. The Americans left a taste for Budweiser.



We walked home between the two Ministry of Defense sections. Our side of the street was the private side, and had a 12' wall, lined with spot lights and a gate every 200 metros or so - with several guards carrying machine guns. The public side had a museum of planes, including captured US planes.




We retrieved the kid and headed out for dinner. Tumeric, lemongrass and ginger catfish, you cook at the table with dill and green onions. Mix with rice noodles, soy sauce, leeks, chili sand peanuts for a delicious meal. This was our most expensive meal in Hanoi (well, except the night we ate in the hotel restaurant - Essence - which was also very good) and with drinks cost us almost $20 USD. You can eat very well in this country.




Cha Ca Thang Long is situated inside an old French Colonialist Building. It is several stories with indoor and outdoor seating, There were a lot of locals eating here, and I have heard there are two menus with different pricing. One in English for the tourist and one in Vietnamese for the locals. But don't except the local menu if you are Vietnamese - American; I am told you also get the tourist menu.




Just a fun street corner that captures much of the spirit of Ha Noi. Eating on the sidewalks amongst the motorbikes. And the awning with a tree grown around it.

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We stayed at the Aira Boutique Hotel, just a few blocks outside the Old Quarter. It was our priciest booking (outside the cruise) of this trip, but the rooms were very nice, and our kid was in a connecting room. The honor bar was free (I sucked down some water and Ha Noi Beer, and my kid enjoyed a few Cokes), and the room rate included a massage for each of us, and daily breakfast. The buffet potion of breakfast was quite good. The Essence Restaurant, in general, was also worth a visit and it is the only hotel restaurant I have ever - ever - said that about. If you like cocktails, their Jacket was quite good - with Gin, Tequila, Egg White, Fish Sauce, Lemongrass syrup, Ginger and Lemon Leaves. They also has some infused bourbon that was tasty. The bar tend instructed me it is meant for ripping, not gulping.




Our final day in Ha Noi, we escaped to Binh Ninh, which was the seat of government from 968 to 1010. The capital moved north to Ha Noi, as it is much better situated for commerce, being on the confluence of the Red and Duong Rivers. Binh Ninh was chosen originally, as it is much easier to defend being tucked into the local mountains. More on Vietnam independence and a 1000 years of Chinese rule later. Our first stop was to climb Hang Mua Mountain.




The steps are hewed out for he stone of the mountain. Dragons are another sacred animal, and carved in everywhere. They are believed to be evolved from carp, as the immature dragon has a water form and the mature masters the air. There is a dragon at both the base and the top of the 500 step climb. Our guide claimed 500m, All Trails claims 229', I've seen 200m claimed. 180m feel about correct. The 500 steps averaged about 10" (they progressively grew bigger near the top), but regardless, it was a steep up and down.




The view looking down to the village we climbed out of.



Looking down on the Ngo Dong River and flooded rice paddies. This area is described as Halong Bay o land - and it is similar karst landscape. It is easy to see why this landscape would be easy for locals to defend.




Looking back toward the pagoda on the false peak. You can see the stairs carved into the mountain face. In SE Asian style, the stairs were far from uniform.



Atop the peak is a dragon about 50m long. My kid and I trekked along the jagged peak. While there were chains, it still felt sharp, exposed, and slippery. My kid did great, but I for sure felt pretty nervous with them walking along the knife edged peak. I was able to convince them to not climb the very last section, which was a fatal fall zone. Proud of them to make the decision not to push it too far. I watch one dude, who seemed less apt at climbing than my kid, lose his balance and regain it after two windmills of the arm, and was able to re grab a hold. Was pretty tense to watch.

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Next we were off to the village of Ton Coc (Three Caves) and a paddle down the Ngo Dong. There are no boats to rent. Instead you hire a local to row you up and back down the river. There is almost no current in this part of the river, and our guide for the day had no idea which direction it actually flowed. I think we paddled up first, after a conversation through hand singles with our boat lady.



The river is for sure another huge tourist attraction and one of two industries for the village. The other is tending to ride paddies. While there are a few souvenir stands and restaurants, these are really the back one of the local economy. Very few villagers travel out of Tom Hoc and into the city of Binh Ninh for work. From what I gathered, the numbers were slight, and occasionally a little more than none.


Tom Coc got its name from the fact that the river passes through three caves near the village. Here we approach the first cave.



Karst is basically eroded limestone. Since limestone is solvable in water, water will carve through it quite easily. While this can be through the motion of tides, or flow of a river, it can also result from rain water percolating through, or falling down a slope. It creates a very rugged landscape.



It was pretty peaceful out on the water, and again, these pictures do almost nothing for the beauty of the area. We were lucky to time our boat trip and saw only a few other boats out on the water, until we were almost returned to our dock.




There were just a few homesteads out on the river. After the first cave I did not see an roads or obvious routs int the valley. Pretty secluded. These guys had a cat and dog, and plenty of ducks swimming nearby.




It was just after the peak water lily season, but there were still a few to be seen. Juts about a month ago, this waterway would have been loaded with lily blossoms, tho, you rarely will see them open - as they are harvested when still closed.



Another homestead as we approach the second cave. This one had run-ins nearby on both sides of the river.



Exiting the second cave, you will notice all the formations that hand down from the cave roof. These caves were quite shallow, and at times it felt like you might hit your head if you sat up too erectly.



And entering the final and third cave. It would seem like the river would just go into the side of a mountain.



This gives you an idea of the height. And you can see the method by which the boat guides row - they use their feet. And they make it look easy some how. I do imagine it is still a core workout, but also that it is less work not he back than hand rowing.



Cave Selfie.

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It was simply gorgeous and a fine way to spend a few hours after touring around Ha Noi, with its bustling streets and air pollution. Don't get me wrong - I loved Ha Noi, but some fresh air and nature felt good.



This captures a bit the river just heading into a mountain side feel.



The most recent King Kong film - Skull Island - was filmed here. If you have even just seen the poster for the movie, it makes sense.




The cave closest to town is by far the longest, and the river curves through it. They have a few lights inside to keep it from being too dark. I do think the middle third would be close to pitch black without the lights.



Hard to get a shot right with the mixed light.



We had a basic Vietnamese lunch along the river and watch the boats row by. A few boats after this shot, a woman rowed by while peeling her orange. Lunch was perhaps our least favorite of the trip, but still quite good. Roll your own spring rolls, lemongrass crispy chicken, grilled goats meat, and rice.



We biked around a bit through town, to get from lunch to the Bich Dong Pagoda and back. Obilgatory flag and bike shot.




Bich Dong Pagoda(s) was built in 1428, and is one for the few areas to survive the American War (bombing destroyed a lot of temples and ancient buildings) and the wear and tear of time (tropical weather has also had its impact on a lot of sites). It consists of three separate pagoda. This is the entrance gate. Just another simply beautiful setting. You can understand why a tempe was built here.



Dragon statues with actual dragon tooth (or rather, an actual tooth) impeded in the sculpture.




Three Buddhist monks are buried here.




There are three pagoda built at Bich Dong, at different heights in the mountain. A fourth pagoda is being built lower down the mountainside from the three main structures.



Fast Food is something different here.



The ride back to town was nice enough.

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Viet Nam has a long and complicated history. They have been victims to incursion by foreign powers for millennium. There is no way I recall all of what I learned, let alone relay it here. The Chinese entered, and began their domination of the Red River Valley in the 2nd Century B.C. The Vietnamese learned much from the Chinese, including rice paddies cultivation, metal works, crafts, art, architecture and religious beliefs. Ultimately, the Chinese were not nice. They demanded tribute and kept control, as Vietnam was on the trade route to India. There were several attempted rebellions along the way. They all failed. Several Dynasty flourished and failed over the 1000 years of Chinese domination. The Tang Dynasty began to falter in the late 9th Century due to internal strife. In 938, the Vietnamese, led by Ngo Quten, sunk stakes into an estuary near Halong Bay. They lured the Chinese armada in by faking a retreat, and as the tide lowered, the Vietnamese counter attacked and drove the Chines fleet into the stakes, sinking the entire navy. It took until the 20th Century for the Chinese to return.

Viet Nam fell under the power of war lords. Dinh Bo Linh subdued the 12 warring tribes in 938 and unified the country (Dao Co Viet) under the Dinh Dynasty. He established Hoa Lu, near Ninh Binh shortly after. It is built on a river delta between two sets of mountains, and had been a village for centuries. Its was an easy area to defend against possible Chinese (or Laotian) encroachment. Dinh rule lasted 12 years - murdered by a eunuch advisor. And I have not even yet touched on the violent parts of this history.

All that remains today of the citadel is the entry bridge, gate and some of the grounds. The rest has been lost to nature and war.




I just rather likes this reflecting pool and the roots reaching down for water.






Built in the 17t Century the Temple to Dinh Bo Linh is very much in the Confucian style, design to pray and give reverence to a admirable person of history - often considered the founder of modern day Viet Nam. A lot had to transpire between the short lived Dinh Dynasty and today to make what is the modern day country, but Dinh was the first unifying force in the nation.

He is buried in the saddle between the mountains behind the temple. Domestic pilgrims still come to this temple to pay homage today. Even more amazing, the ancient village founded in this valley likely over 2000 years ago, still exists on these hallowed grounds. I asked our guide if they needed a pass to enter through the gates without paying for a ticket, and he told me that it is the same as it ever was in these rural villages. They are still small enough, where everyone know every body else who lives there. The guard at the gate is a local, and just waves his neighbors through. This also is what has made Viet Nam impenetrable to complete dominance by outsider over the centuries. The villages were always safe havens, as they would always know when an outsider was nearby - regardless of their ancestry - they would be recognized as not supposed to be there, and the rest would be alerted. There are many stories in history in Viet Nam of villages being where the enemy would falter and the cities where the enemy would prevail.




Binh Ninh is a long day trip from Hanoi. Given more time, it would be more pleasant as a two or three day trip - but still worth the long day. We got back to Ha Noi around 7PM, tired, hungry and ready for dinner.




The next morning, I was out doing some Christmas shopping - buying a lego set and a ton of gum. I think the gum was the bigger hit with my kid. You can't get that shit in SG. On my way back, I was lucky enough to see the train pass. It barely squeezes through the alley way. What amazed me the most, was how early the gate was pulled back. You can see a woman doing it here, still 10 or so cars away from the end of the train. And the bikes are already starting to squeeze forward. No rest for the weary in Ha Noi. Soon after, we were on a flight to Da Nang. Worth noting, domestic air travel is cheap in Viet Nam. I think our flight was about $40. We could have taken a 10 plus hour train ride and save $5 (over three tickets), but, again, with limited time, the flight was the right call.

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The next day we flew to Da Nang and headed into Ho Ain. We stayed at Brother's Villas, and this was absolutely the right call. Simple, clean homestay, with wonderful hosts. Arriving hungry, we used the villa's bicycles to ride over to Bahn Mi Sum. Again, absolutely the right call. This sandwich rang in at $1.06 USD. And I enjoyed a Chuoi Ca Phe - a banana smoothie with a shot of Vietnamese coffee in poured into it. Yum.



Hoi An is what it is for basically two major reasons. It was a major trading port fro the 15th to 19th centuries, giving it a mix of Asian and European cultures. And it was not bombed to oblivion during the American War, so it retains its historical city scape. Ultimately, it is a charming small city and UNESCO Heritage Site, dotted with eateries, cafes, shops, tailors and more. It is also very crowded and popular with tourist - both domestic and foreign.



Lanterns are an integral part of Hoi An. They are everywhere. These you can purchase at the Night Market that sets up every day at sunset, and runs well past when we went to bed.




Tailors are all over town. Mr Xe has great prices and does quite good work. All of the tailors have very reasonable prices, and from what I saw, so good work. Mr Xe and Bibi Silk would be two I’d suggest checking out. Bong was also good, but not quite as stand out as these two. The cocktail in the foreground was fine. As was my Pasteur Street beer. Neither outstanding. More on beer soon, because Viet Nam does have some outstanding beer.



The city is set along a tidal river. Or rather a narrow branch of the Thu Bon River. And the city lights up at night. Looking toward the main part of Old Town, and what I started to referring to as the day zone. This side is way busier during the daylight hours and quieter at night.



And the night zone. Loud at night with several live bands and music coming out of every venue. You could also call this the party side.



Built in the 18th Century, the Japanese Bridges and pagoda are a central point in town. You can buy a tours ticket to choose five historical sites to visit. The Japanese Bridge pagoda is on the list.



The bridge itself is a thoroughfare, connecting two sections of the old Town.



Our first night we ate dinner at Morning Glory. While expensive compared to some other places we ate in Hoi An, it was really quite reasonable. We ate really well hereto and spent less than $30 SGD. And we saw some food going out that made us want to come back for more. We ended up eating here 3 nights out of 6. It was that good. Besides, it was an actual restaurant, and we really can't afford that experience too often back home in Singapore. So we were happy to splurge.



We arrived on Christmas Eve, so decided to attend the 9PM Christmas Vigil Mass at the closest Catholic Church. It was quite the experience. Packed house, but locals were super friendly, and two groups made room for our family to find seats. The service I could follow (in Vietnamese), as I was brought up Catholic, but it did seem like a mix of a typical Catholic Mass in the US and a bit of the Confucian Ceremony we had observed in Ha Noi. My favorite part was at the sign of peace, we would bow to each other instead of shake hands.

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It was a very different Christmas morning than we are used to. One stocking, filled with gum (you can't buy that shit in SG). We biked over into Old Town to get some breakfast, and we saw Baby Santa go by on motorbike.





You need to be careful about slowing down. My kid and I were waiting for my wife (she is not quite as swift weaving through the crowds) and this woman comes by with her fruits, and starts telling me I should buy some fruit, or take a photo. I politely decline and within a minute, she has placed the fruit on me and took my phone from my hand, and taken my picture. I ended up buying 30,000 dong worth of rambutan. She tried to sell me 100,000 worth of fruit, so I think I did well. Ended up with a family photo. Each of us doing our own thing.



While this was happening, my kid enquired of another family - where did they get their wind up bird. They are sold on the street, but it was too early for the sellers to be out. They ended up gifting theirs to my kid, but it had already been well used, and a little worn down. While my kid was trying to figure out how to make it work, the fruit seller decided to gift him some help. The point is, the Vietnamese people are super friendly, and super sociable. It feel really nice to engage with people who ultimately just want tomato some connections (and this was after I talked her down to 30k worth of fruit).




We took a lantern making class for our Christmas Day activity. It was one of the highlights of our trip. I joined a bit reluctantly, but ended up really enjoying the experience. The other two of my party needed no convincing. The tea selections on our trip were always phenomenal.



Bending the bamboo stringers is a workout.




There are a few places to make lanterns in Hoi An. We opted for a family run business - Tieng Vong Pho , booked through Hoi An Handicraft, and it was a good call. It was basically working with a pretty nice kit. In this step, you string the bamboo pieces together with wire and then fit them into the slots on the top and bottom pieces. Part of what made the experience so nice, is the guy who was showing us what to do, would come by after each step, and be sure it was done correctly - fixing you mistakes if any were made - and still making it seem like you nailed it.




I'm petty sure that gluing the fabric on, got us all a little experienced. I have no doubt that it will hold.




Afterwards we headed out for Com Ga (Chicken Rice) at Com Ga Ba Buoi. It is popular, and with reason. Turmeric rice, shredded chicken, greens and a broth with offal in it. You make a pepper sauce, with salt, pepper, and lime for dipping. Yom. I wanted to get to Com Ga Long, but never made it there. Along the walk from making lanterns to eating dinner, it was picturesque.

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Japanese Bridge and the kiddo.




Cam Linh Pho Bo. My kid learned a while back that pho is served as a breakfast food in Viet Nam, as opposed to lunch or dinner. So they decided to have Pho Bo for 15 breakfasts in a row. This was easy in Ha Noi, as it was offered with our included breakfast in both hotels and on the boat in Halong. We had to find our places in Hoi An. Cam Linh had a good bowl.





Old Town is very well preserved. Here is the oldest structure, fro the 15th Century. Of course restoration work is done to keep these structures from failing, but it is still pretty cool to see these structures that are older than anything in the US, and as old as anything well preserved in Europe. Part of the reason is that Hoi An was still a busy and bustling trading center well into the 19th Century, and folks kept there centuries old structures well kept. It was way more costly to rebuild than to keep up - so kept up they were. Another great aspect of 400 years worth of trading is the food. Caa Lua is local dish and is basically noodles, pork and morning glory (kang kong) - the noodles are similar to Japanese udon, but boiled in the local hard water, giving them a unique chewy texture. The flavors are a mix of Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese. The result is good eating.



Pho Xua Pho Bo. Pho Xua, has an even better bowl.



One of my favorite parts of Hoi An was all the alley ways and side streets in both Old Town and throughout the city. The main roads are for sure not as crazy as Ho Chi Minh, or Ha Noi even, but they are for sure a bustle motorbikes and cars. Once off those, it can get nice and quiet, with just an occasional motorbike. Once you learned the maze, it was easy to get around town with only occasionally popping out onto the roads.




3Km from the city is the beach. I was hoping to rent a board and catch a few waves in a new part of the world, but it was quite simply a mess. Still, a pretty place to surf, with views of the Cu Lan Cham just offshore. The surf was actually bit bigger than I would have expected, and I checked the weather for an offshore forecast. Alas, it was not to turn off shore until the day we were leaving the country.




The beachfront was lined with seafood restaurants. This was common - just pick you dinner from a kiddie pool. I enjoyed a few beers, and we shared some calamari. Beers were cheap, but the food was less so.




If you bought drinks or food, you could use the chaise lounge set up along the beach. It was worth the 16000 dong price for a 333 or Sai Gon. Tiger would have set you back 25000.




Sometimes you just need to dig in the sand.





The beaches are actually a barrier island, and this is the waterway separating it from the mainland. Crossing the bridge, you can easily pick out the fact that it really is juts a fishing village.



We biked back to town through the rice paddies, though it was in between plantings. Of course, there are still water buffalo to checkout.



My kid was done after our day, and stayed back in the hotel. We opted to head back to Morning Glory and be sure we ordered the fried fish we had seen served the other night.



Needless to say, it was rather delicious. And the fact that this dish cost about $6 USD is juts insane.

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The sun came back out and we bikes about 6km to take a ride on a Basket Boat. When the French were here, they taxed everything, including owning a boat. Some fishermen decided they could build a large basket and learn to paddle that around and avoid the French tax. And the Bamboo Basket Boat was born. They are ubiquitous in Central and Southern Viet Nam today. Woven of bamboo, then covered in resin or tar, cow dung, and finally sap - they are river and sea worthy vessels. In fact, they work amazing on the ocean due to their circular design - they do not get trashed around by the seas. With a very shallow hull, they can be used close to shore. Being light, they are easy to put in and pull out of the water.




We took a ride down the Coconut River. And yes, this is a coconut. This variety is actually very very small on the inside, with juts a small amount of water, although it does have a thick meat best used for pressing oil.




Today the basket boats are still used all over for transport and fishing. They are also used for fun. There are several of these guys hanging out on the river willing to give you a ride for 50-100k (did I mention that everything here is a negotiation). He is spinning his boat quite quickly, and get it about at a 80 degree angle with the water.



It is apart seen, and apparently very popular with the domestic, Korean and Chinese tourist. They have a bunch of Karaoke stands )or anchored basket boats) set up in the water where you can take your turn belting out your favorite tunes. Gangnam Style was the only song I recognized (and yes, at as stand set up for Korean tourist). There were a lot of large groups in the area and out on the water. We arrived on bike, and they arrived on bus.



As you move around the river and waterways (as it truly is mangrove biome in nature) there are tons of beautifully painted fishing vessels. Some in better condition than others - but all of them bright and exciting.



I particularly enjoyed this ocean going vessel. It barely was a foot off the water, but we were told they eyes help alert the boat to danger, and keep the sailors safe.




It was not a quiet boat ride with the crowds and partying going on out on the water, until we hit some of the narrow side water ways. Just like in town, these were my favorite part of the adventure. The light cutting through the palm fronds would shimmer on the water surface, and the noise from the revelers was dimmed by the thick flora.



On our bike back to the hotel, we came across this guy rooting a pig along the river front. We tried our best to find out where this pork might later be served, but none of use had the language skills to communicate other than us all smiling and nodding our heads at the slowly sizzling carcass.

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I did bring the DLSR, and did take a few pics but most of the time did not bother to carry it around. The weight, and occasionally rain, kept it at home. I did wish I had brought it with me at night, and for the few times I wanted the zoom. The Japanese Bridge, from across the river, after dark. All the lights and lanterns were kind of fun. This bridge is a national treasure, and featured on the 20,000 dong bill.




Just a tentacle or an entire octopus? Frog or Fowl? The night market had a ton of snacking options. I enjoyed rice pancakes filed with goodies, crepes with bananas and Nutella, as well as glutenous rice stuffed with banana and then grilled over a flame. I only ever got here after dinner, and never needed pure protein, so never opted in for meat on a stick. But the options were not missing.



The night market sets up on Ngyunen Hoang, a wide boulevard that bisects an island in the Bon River. The market runs from shore to shore, and get a little less touristy as you hit the far side. There is also a soccer pitch over there, with pick up games going every night. Football (or soccer) has a huge fan base in Viet Nam, and we saw games playing every night in the bars of Hoi An, and in the lobby of our homestay. Mostly Premier League, but also saw a bit of the Viet Nam - Malaysia game. Viet am won 3-0.



It is lit and colorful here every night. And so much life. One thing not to miss, it a walk just one block off the water on the island side. While the river front is a bustle of bars and eateries, the next street over is full of local life. And family run eateries that offer one or two dishes. The price difference is huge as well. Not that things are expensive in the main restaurants, but we had Veitnames pancakes, Banh Xeo, for about $5, including beers, tea, a Sprite and spring rolls from a family run shop. And there was an uncle watching a football game in the adjacent living room.

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My dad served for a year near Da Nang in '69/'70. He asked if we planned to vista the Marble Mountains (Ngu Hanh Son) while nearby, and suggested they are a sight to be seen. This area has quite a history, stretching back centuries. So we took a Grab (SE Asian Uber) and figures it would be a good adventure for a day of mixed weather. Upon arriving, I realized I noticed these outcroppings of limestone and marble when landing in Da Nang. There is a bunch of stair climbing, and a bunch of caves to explore. We started with the Hell Cave - Am Chu - the largest of the bunch which you enter from the base of the largest of the five mountains.




Am Chu is a huge cavern. From the main chamber, there are several tunnels that descend "into hell", but we attracted with he staircase that ascends to the vision of heaven. It was dark, wet, steep, narrow and on our climb, very crowded. I was shocked with some of the folks making the climb, and a little concerned as they looked quite gripped.




The staircase winds up to small ledge with a view of the surrounding mountains to the south. It follows a nature vertical cave tunnel that is adorned with inspiring statues. It is no easy climb to enlightenment. And, when you finally get there, there is no where else to go, but back down to hell.




The view with a vision of heaven. Luckily, we timed our descent well, and did not need to wait as others ambled down the steep steps.




Back down in the main chamber, we sat in front of those who would judge your life. The depictions of hell in the cave are of Buddhist belief. So these judges are not others, but manifistations of your actions, themselves. You are judged by yourself. Good luck.





There were tons of depicting of hellish existence within the cave. Besides it being hot and humid inside, there were statues of people being cut in half, general mutilation, bones of half consumed humans, demons coming our of the rock, and hidden in grottos. It was a fun cave to walk around. In all, there are 18 chambers, or circles of Buddhist Hell.



Back up in the main chamber, there is the reminder that paradise is not lost forever. After an appropriate amount torture, to work the evils our of you, you are then reborn to start it all over again. Again, best of luck next time.

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Back outside, we were in luck. The rain was light to start. We climbed the 158 steps up to heaven. If ever you find yourself in Da Nang or Hoi An, and have a day to spare, and want some expertise and cave exploration, hit up the Marble Mountains. The combination of natural beauty, pagoda, temples and sculpture are pretty amazing. If you want a little less exercise, you can take an elevator to heaven for a small fee. Still, expect plenty of more stairs and scrambling to get around. Heaven is not all ease.




Chua Linh Ung - Linh Ung Pagoda - This is the first site you come across when entering from Gate 2 or the elevator. Inside are three depictions of Buddha - of Past, Present and Future.



Built during the reign of Gia Long, around 1803, this pagoda is laden in colors and gold. Today it is still a pilgrimage site for many Vietnamese, as well as foreign Buddhists.





It sits tucked into the lush mountain side. The colors are amazing. Perhaps it was the light rain, but the jungle growth surrounding the pagoda seemed especially vibrant and alive. A pair of lion dogs - one male, one female (yin/yang) - guard the entrance.



Atop the pagoda sits several dragons, also protecting the holy site from ill doers. Dragons and lion dogs are common motif among the religious sites in Viet Nam.

[MyNameIsAugustWest]

Amazing trip report.

I've always been intrigued by Viet Nam. Now, even more so. Your kid will never forget this year.

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Thanks man. Viet Nam is a great visit. Food, culture, history, people, natural beauty and some great beer to top it off. That last part is a bit of an enigma in SE Asia other than imports. SG has some decent ones brewed locally but nothing like Saigon.

And for sure the kid will not forget this year. To be fair, it is incredibly challenging at times, but always seems worth it, at least after we overcome the challenges. While I miss a lot about being home (like a banner start to the snow season after many years of less than average snowfall - and MTB that is not all roots and mud puddles) its side trips like these, that we would never have the time or money to afford, that makes this whole experience something I would never wish away.

More Marble Mountains.



Dong Hyuen Khong - Hyuen Khong Cave - is perhaps the largest cavern on the upper mountain. It is a huge space, and has a hole way up at the top. On a sunny day, around 2pm (depending on the time of year) the sun will send a shaft of light down on to the cave floor, and alight certain temples and statues. On the day we were there, it just allowed rain to fall on us.




The size of the space is hard to imagine from the pictures. The floor is polished marble. These mountains are made of limestone and marble, and much of them has been mined for the materials. The local village is know for having carved sculptures for centuries. You can still buy sculptures from the size of paper weights, to massive garden(?) stairs in the surrounding village. The Vietnamese government recently halted all mining in the Marble Mountains for fear that they would become structurally unsound, and begin to collapse. I asked around, but never received a definitive answer - I wondered if some of the cave spaces were created by mining. Other than floor and stairs, I did not see an obviously mined surfaces - but if that mining occurred several centuries ago, limestone structures would have had time to cover that up.




One, or several, of these caves were used by the Viet Cong as a field hospital during the American War. The US airbase was just adjacent to the mountains, and my fathers quartermasters camp was just over from that and along the ocean. Talking with my father about his experiences, and reading about the war in the area, it is hard to pinpoint just when and how things happened. The Viet Cong removed Southern and US forces from the Marble mountains sometime around '67, and then used the area as a staging ground to motor the nearby airbase. There were several attempts to oust Viet Cong from the mountains, but the elaborate cave system made it an impossible task.

Here is another temple inside the Hyuen Khong cave. Again, this space is large, and I'd assume this was the space used for the field hospital. But this was another thing that was hard to pinpoint. It seems that no one really knows were the hospital was located and is more of myth (perhaps based in fact) than anything else.




The rain subsided, and we decided to head on up to the highest point on Thuy (water). Each of the five mountains represents an elemental, and myth states these were first pieces of a dragon egg (of course, dragons). These steps were the most regular and smooth of all the stairs I've been on in SE Asia. Amazing.




More stairs. Each mountain represents one of the five elements of Chinese mythology. Metal (Kim), Earth (Tho), Water (Thuy), Fire (Hoa) and Wood (Hoc). Only Thuy is open to the public. These mountains were originally islands (or least were islands along time ago) an date surrounding area the old sea bed. So it would have looked similar to Halong Bay.





Looking westerly toward Hoa Son (broken into Yin and Yang) and the surrounding villages. The ceiling was low on this day, keeping the views limited.




The surf was even bigger and rougher than two days previous. Again, was shocked at the size of the surf in an area not really open to the Pacific. Still, the South China Sea is big enough to set up a good sized fetch and the NE winds were solid.




Looking north toward Danang and Son Peninsula. There is a huge, white woman Buddha on the hillside there, which was the only thing you could really see from the peak. It was like a bright beacon. From what I underman, the beaches along this stretch are beautiful and rocky. Maybe a cove to surf, out of the onshore.




When we first climbed, we missed Dong Tang Chon, and was glad we returned here. This majestic Buddha was perhaps 6 meters tall, and you could scramble up and around the cave to choose you view. From the feet, mid section, or spin the crown of its head.

I never took pictures inside Dong Van Thong, but this was perhaps our favorite adventure. At the back of the cave there was a small chimney you could climb up and out of the cave, one person at a time. As we emerged, the sky opened up and it began to downpour. There was no turning back, as climbing sown would have been treacherous. From there, we scrambles on a marble, slippery, chopped marble trail to one of the two false peaks on Thuy Son. It was my kid's favorite part of the day. Nothing like a little danger to induce joy.

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Dong Tang Chon had moderate sized chambers, but had plenty of them. This temple was in the main chamber after an entry channel.




as you walked from one chamber to another, you views kept on changing. As I climbed a series of stairs, I turned over my shoulder to this peek through shot.




I particularly liked these guys and light hitting them, even with the rain falling outside.





There are so many temples and pagodas up on the mountain. Some are very old, and weathered.





Others new and polished.



This captures a lot of Viet Nam in a single shot. Legendary dragon dog, lanterns and the color red.

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Lanterns along the alley way. What is not to love about walking and biking around this place.




Heart of Darkness is brewed in Saigon. Most of the bars in Hoc An serve the regular SE Asian lagers, but a few had bottles or draugt beers from around Viet Nam (and a few from Hong Kong). Loose Rivet is a NEIPA, and my favorite beer so far in SE Asia. Once I found this spot, it became a daily pilgrimage for a beer or two.




Tropical Home is down one of those side alleys and a great place to grab a beer and snack. Good tap list, good service and nice indoor and outdoor seating. I often grabbed one of the chairs in the small garden area.




Mot does for sweet tea, what Tropical Home does for beer. The food here was good, but not amazing. The sweet tea they sell out of the from window is cheap, refreshing, hydrating and, yes, sweet.




We became quite fond of the egg coffee. There was a great little place a few doors down from our home stay. Inexpensive and quite convenient. One one fo our last mornings, tho, we decided to walk into Old Town and spend a little time enjoying the cafe culture and river view.



Walking around Old Town is quiet in the mornings, and most of the shops are still closed up. Still, it was my favorite time of the day, with the street mostly abandoned and the colors popping.




On of the many cultural sites you can visit in Old Town is Dinh Ong Voi. It is a preserved community space. I just liked this archway and red door.




Dinh Ong Voi translates to the Elephant Palace, and with good reason. We happened upon a day that had free entry, so we poked around. My one regret on our trip is that we did not find time to buy a daily ticket and visit some more of these sites. If I get back in a few months with my in-laws, I will be sure to buy a day ticket and choose five sites to visit.




The Banh Mi is Hoi An is really off the hook, and super inexpensive. This place had sandwiches for about $1.05 USD, and extremely tasty. I think I ate here three times, and would have even more if I had more time or a bigger stomach. They also served a Banana Coffee, which was a banana smoothie with a double shot of Vietnamese chilled coffee poured in. What an awesome afternoon pick me up. The sweetness fo the smoothie blended perfectly with the bitterness of the black coffee.






If in town, give Bahn Mi Sum a try. It was not visited by Bourdain, so it does not have a huge line. It was recommended by, and frequented by locals. Another option is Banh My Queen (My is an alternative spelling of Mi). Also quite good, but I think it was mentioned by Bourdain, and I was told they have dumbed down (for Western tastes) their sandwiches to appeal to more folks. They were still good, and did include a good slab of pate. I can state for sure, the place we hit up in Saigon was way less Western feeling than either of these. Or rather, these did not have what is referred to here as luncheon meat.



It rained off and on over our six days in Hoi An. One advantage to the wet weather was that it offered up great lantern reflections during the evening hours. And we enjoyed being a little chilly.

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My second favorite time of day was twilight, as the lanterns lit, and just enough light remains to keep the colors popping.



More tourist boats. I just really enjoyed all the colors.



The river at night. I wish photos had volume and you could hear the party going on the other side of the street.




Back at the night market for an evening treat. Chuoi Nep Nuong is banana wrapped in glutinous rice and then wrapped in a banana leaf. Cook the entire thing on a grill and take off the leaf. Drizzle with coconut milk and top with toasted sesame seeds and chopped peanuts. Yum.



On our last morning, we stayed local for our egg coffee and hit the place on our street. These delicious drinks of espresso, whipped egg and froth milk cost a cool $1.50. I can barely hey a Kopi-O for that in SG.





Pho Trung was our favorite. This was day 12 for my kid having Pho Bo for breakfast, and Pho Trung is truly a locals spot. It is open from 6AM until Noon, like any good breakfast joint. They offer Pho Bo and sort of Pho Ga. They get chicken from Com Ga Long (a chicken rice place) next door and put it int the beef broth. Coffee comes from another neighbor. Other than that, you can order a poached egg to add to your Pho. Run by an older couple, who makes sure you know what to do with the sliced green mango and cilantro on your side plate - it is not for putting into your soup. Rather, drizzle with fresh squeezed lime, soy sauce and crushed black pepper (and chili to taste) and enjoy your side salad. Also served with a pot of tea, for the crazy cost of 25,0000 dong, or $1.05 USD. If you are ever in Hoi An, you really should not miss this place. But be prepared to link of Pho as breakfast, like a local.



Biking out of the alley (did I mention Pho Trung is down a small side alley) and one of our last moments before calling our cab to the airport. Loved our stay in this city. If I knew anyone who was only going to be able to spend a few days in Viet Nam, I would send them here. It had it all: Food, culture, beer. beach, food again, and so so much vibrancy.

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Ho Chi Minh City, stilled called Saigon by the southerners (the one's I spoke with claim that most claim it is because it is fewer syllables, but one admitted that many just are still not accepting of the name change due to old school resentments) is a totally different beast. Its easy to see the difference from Hoi An, but its even quite different than Ha Noi. Way more crowded, more expensive, more westerners than any where else I visited. And more motorbikes.




One of the pros from that list is more beer. After the most expensive, and least impressive meal of our visit, we walked over to Heart of Darkness. Oddly enough, it cost more in Saigon, at the brewery, than it cost in Hoi An at Tropical Home. Still inexpensive compared to SG beer prices (or the US for that matter) and the beer was quite delicious. My wife ordered a flight of pales and hazys.



More motorbikes - at night. The streets in HCMC were quite a bit wider than Ha Noi, allowing for greater gathering of bikes. The buzz was surreal. We stayed in District 1, which was busy with domestic and tourist traffic. It is where most of the hotels are, but we soon learned, getting out to other districts are what we would want to do.



Before leaving District 1, we made a mid day stop to Pasteur Street to give their offering a try. Another worthy outfit, but I preferred HoD by a half point. Either would do really. The Pasteur Street tasting room was a bit cooler - down an alley way, and up a rickety set of stairs. On your way to the place, you begin to wonder if you made a wrong turn. Nothing flashy about the place. There is a small tasting room on the second floor, and a third floor space opens up later in the afternoon. evening, when it gets a bit busier.