Unmounting bindings to tune?

[Name Redacted]

I trust this guy

That's great. Notice how he didn't mention silicone?

[jackattack]

That's great. Notice how he didn't mention silicone?

You know what’s guaranteed to rust? Wood glue.

Keep filling your cores with water.

[J. Barron DeJong]

I trust this guy

Links to specific recommended product?

I see a variety of types of Amazing Goop, and don’t see anything called 3M Marine Epoxy.

[Name Redacted]

You know what’s guaranteed to rust? Wood glue.

Keep filling your cores with water.

I think you are fighting shadows here. But maybe you should start spreading your gospel by telling 99% of the people on the hill to check their binding screws for rust. You should make a lot of new friends.

[jackattack]

I've used both of these with reliable results:

https://eclecticproducts.com/product...g-goop-marine/
https://eclecticproducts.com/product...p-all-purpose/

[tuco]

Links to specific recommended product?

I see a variety of types of Amazing Goop, and don’t see anything called 3M Marine Epoxy.

He's talking about the 5200. It's a marine sealant

[MagnificentUnicorn]

I think you are fighting shadows here. But maybe you should start spreading your gospel by telling 99% of the people on the hill to check their binding screws for rust. You should make a lot of new friends.

Every screw that I have pulled that was mounted with wood glue was rusted to some degree. Shoe Goo or Amazing Goop seals so much better, not only the hole but the area around the hole between the bindings and ski.


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[2FUNKY]

I use loktite marine epoxy for skis with carbon in them and titebond waterproof woodglue for everything else. Never had water penetration or rusted screws with either method. Just because something is water based doesn’t mean it’s not waterproof once dry. Exterior Stains, paints and glues are examples of this.

[Mustonen]

I’ve been using blue gasket maker, on a friend’s recommendation. I’m sure it has similar properties to marine sealant, except it has a temperature rating of 500 degrees for when I really turn things up.

[Harry]

I have nothing technical to add to this thread, so I’m just going to post some stoke of the OP on the exact skis and bindings referenced in this thread.

Here is byates1 exiting the Nothing Missing shack at BBI-MT.




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[Shorty_J]

This is ideal for when you just want to seal up the hole (and don't need to add any significant adhesion):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Sealants-A...dp/B089N98MBT/

Wood glue rusts bindings screws.
I used to think that made no sense, until a TGR poster wrote something like:
"Wonder how the water got in there that rusted your binding screws? You put it in there."
Ever since switching to that glue (or G/Flex epoxy when I wanted more stick um), I've never had rusted screws when uninstalling a binding.

I'm not sure I'm buying this as a source of rust on binding screws.

Wood glue is used on a tonne of stuff that doesn't show rust on the screws when you pull them. Like cabinets for instance.

I think it's more likely that flexing of the ski and a wet environment that allows some liquid into the binding holes would be the source of rust... IMO.

Having said that I also don't see a reason why silicone in bindings holes could be bad at all
... so potatoe - vagina... as my wife says.

[byates1]

I was going for as gaper form as possible!

[byates1]

The skis in the pic are my resort ski setup. Bc setup is coomback/dynafits/tlt6.

Also just got some dynafit Hokkaido w old school classic bindings for a fat ski bc setup

[MegaStoke]

And dialing your din down to 0 in the off season..

I used to make a habit of turning my DIN down over the summer, which often resulted in double ejecting on the first turns of the next season.

[detrusor]

Been there. Never gets old for my kids to point and laugh


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