What have you bought/upgraded today.

[basinbeater]

I put a bunch of drivetrain parts on. New xt cassette, new waxed chain, new xt crankset with a sweet north shore billet chainring.
Ready to go ride somewhere tomorrow...

[halliday]

I needed an upgrade so I picked this up on the last sale. Spending a couple days to get fitted and set up then it'll bet time to hit the road

[rideit]

Accidentally got my wife an e-commuter for $100 (Kona).
Woot!

[XXX-er]

good on ya for getting her a real bike !

I see too many of them bikes made out of chinesium

[Andeh]

That's wild, nice find.

[rideit]

Full disclosure:
It is a two year old bike from the fleet that I maintain at Snow King. It was a sort of favor/bonus, It needs some stuff I have at home to be saleable, so rather than spend $200 or whatever to be able to sell it for $300, I just bought it for $100.
So, yeah.
She’s stoked. Mostly so we can ride together, me on a meat bike, and her on that. It’s actually really light, great range, and will go 28.

[snoboy]

Bought: tools - a Park BB tool, a brake bleed kit, and a Pedro's chain gauge. Getting into a new generation of bikes has hidden costs apparently...
Upgraded: not installed yet, but an X01 chain and a X01 pivot bolt for my GX drivetrain. Found both on sale and it sounds like they will save me money in the long run and perform better in the meantime.

[Andeh]

I bought a set of Mavens & associated bleed kit / MMX adapters. I've been mostly happen with my Dominions, but have been curious how the Mavens would work for me since they came out. I wouldn't mind having a little bit more power while still running 200 rotors (220s seem to get bent easily for me), and a functional contact point adjust. Right now the Dominions seem to develop a differential bite feel every couple weeks, due to me dragging brake down steeper trails, and I know how to fix it, but it's kind of a hassle.

[meepmoop24]

...Right now the Dominions seem to develop a differential bite feel every couple weeks, due to me dragging brake down steeper trails, and I know how to fix it, but it's kind of a hassle.

I feel like this happens to me as well with my Dominions, how do you fix it?

[toast2266]

Chasing a persistent, annoying creak. Threw a bunch of money at a Chris King headset. TBD whether it solves the issue.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

[Andeh]

I feel like this happens to me as well with my Dominions, how do you fix it?

Run 1 lever's reach adjust all the way. Pull on the lever firmly and hold for a sec or 2, repeat a few times. Reset lever to preferred reach. Repeat with second lever.

[meepmoop24]

Run 1 lever's reach adjust all the way. Pull on the lever firmly and hold for a sec or 2, repeat a few times. Reset lever to preferred reach. Repeat with second lever.

Awesome, thanks! I just got my Dominions and assumed I didn't bleed them properly after this happened.

[XXX-er]

Chasing a persistent, annoying creak. Threw a bunch of money at a Chris King headset. TBD whether it solves the issue.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

YMMV but in 6 yrs on stock carbon framed Yeti and SC with both ZEB and fox 36 creaking in the headset area has always been fixed by taking it apart and wiping it all down, put it back together with carbon paste

carbon paste for the aluminium seat post in a carbon frame is a must, also slathered some on seat rails

a little carbon paste goes a long way IME

[Andeh]

Counter opinion: all carbon paste has done for me is fuck up dropper post lowers. I apply a thin coating of marine grease (Wolf Tooth's red stuff is my current favorite) on the post lower and no creaks, even with shims. Same story on saddle rails.

Zero headset or BB creaks since I switched to Chris Kings a few years back. I keep the crappy Cane Creek 40s or whatever that comes on a bike, and swap it back on when I sell it, keeping the good stuff for myself.

[Roxtar]

Chasing a persistent, annoying creak. Threw a bunch of money at a Chris King headset. TBD whether it solves the issue.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

I just recently (finally) found mine.
I had swapped Cane Creek (Enduro made) bearings into my Works Components angleset.
Since the CC upper bearing had a 36* ID bevel (the WC bearings are 45*ID bevel), I was using the matching CC compression wedge. Turns out, the WC top cap compression wedge relief cutout was juuuuuust barely smaller than the CC compression wedge, so it didn't seat correctly.

[XXX-er]

I always assumed one needs to change a headset as an assembley, no ?

[Roxtar]

I always assumed one needs to change a headset as an assembley, no ?

Depends on the HS design but you can usually change out the bearings.
That's what I did (to mixed results)

[klauss]

Replaced the two bikes that were stolen over the past weekend with some satisfactory units for the wife and kid.

[halliday]

I always assumed one needs to change a headset as an assembley, no ?

Best practices call for complete assembly change. I always figure when one part takes a shit there will be something else happening shortly after.

[jamal]

So headsets come complete, as uppers and lowers, or you can get most of the individual parts. If you have one crunchy bearing does it make very much sense to maybe be knocking out and pressing in new cups? changing the dust cover or top cap or star nut?

If you have a cheap headset with loose ball bearings then sure yeah replace the whole thing when something wears out but if it's a nicer one just buy new bearings or whatever.

anyway recently i've bought a shitload of new tires, a fancy light, and a bunch of shit to get ready for cyclocross which starts here in a couple of weeks

[XXX-er]

If carbon assembly paste has ruined the inside of your dropper post maybe you used too much or put it on the wrong part, it only goes where the carbon frame touches the aluminium seatpost, carbon paste was the only thing that could silence my yeti frame

Best practices call for complete assembly change. I always figure when one part takes a shit there will be something else happening shortly after.

or the race gets worn a certain way or the new bearing is the rong bearing but if you change the whole headset this should not happen

btw if you send in a fork for service take the lower race off just in case your fork gets lost or warrantied otherwise you are forced to replace the headset as well

[XXX-er]

So headsets come complete, as uppers and lowers, or you can get most of the individual parts. If you have one crunchy bearing does it make very much sense to maybe be knocking out and pressing in new cups? changing the dust cover or top cap or star nut?

I've had at least 3 creaking headsets on 2 bikes so 2 different brands of fork 2 different stems and it all went away by taking apart the headset/ stem/ top cap and wiping every thing down some grease or carbon paste so no parts changed no money spent

if a headset really is bad i would change the whole thing

BTW the star nut doesnt hold the fork on, the stem holds the fork on, the star nut does help you set head set tension after that other than a place to screw on the top cap the star nut doesnt really do anythingso you could take it off and save grams, havent seen that yet

I had a z-1 back in the day I bought used, I think the steerer tube might have been undersized cuz I got stem creep so the bearing tension always loosened off so buddy had bashed in about 6 or 7 star nuts one on top of another which didn't fix the problem and one thru the bottom to hang a fender so you couldn't drive the 6 or 7 starnuts thru, I had to do some drilling and then I instaled a hedlock to fix the problem, it basicly bolts the whole headset/ fork together with a long bolt & nut

[Roxtar]

There's no reason to pull and repress new housings in a HS if you just need new bearings. They're just housings that the bearings sit in. No movement & no wear.
The bearings wear, the housing is just an inert, well, housing.

The only reason to buy a complete new HS is if you're upgrading.

[sb]

Replaced the two bikes that were stolen over the past weekend with some satisfactory units for the wife and kid.

Nice.

[XXX-er]

There's no reason to pull and repress new housings in a HS if you just need new bearings. They're just housings that the bearings sit in. No movement & no wear.
The bearings wear, the housing is just an inert, well, housing.

The only reason to buy a complete new HS is if you're upgrading.

apparently with mixed results