Ask the experts

[Andeh]

Brakes.
I’m freaking out here. New pads (Trickstuff). New rotors (HS2 200mm), trued. Saint Brakes with fresh bleed. Bleed was yesterday, pad install today, so oil was nowhere near the pads.

Went to bed them in and it’s like a pulsing feel where one side of the rotor is grabbing more than the other. The bite is good, it’s just that throughout the rotation of the wheel, the bite fluctuates. Tried sanding down the rotor to no avail.

Feeling cursed.


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Check piston movement. Sounds like one side or one piston isn't advancing, so when you squeeze the brakes it's flexing the rotor to the side.

Also check that the TS pads didn't glaze. When I used those pads on MT7s, they were bite-y as hell, but prone to glazing and wore down really fast.

[Boissal]

These are tempting can a semi competent human use these and get decent results? Simple function so I imagine so.

I have an el cheapo version of the ParkTool from Amazon. Couldn't stomach the cost of the brand version, figured I'd try the knockoff and swap hangers if it didn't work. It does the job fine. There's a tiny bit of play in the main pivot which requires you to keep a bit of tension when moving the tool around to the different measuring points on the wheel, but that's not exactly the end of the world.
I use it regularly and it has fixed several rounds of shifting issues.

[XXX-er]

I found the park is exact enough that I don't even have to adj the cable tension just form the hanger and its correct

I use a 6" cresent wrench by getting back behind the bike 4 feet so I can site down the chain/cluster to really see how far out the der is

[jm2e]

Check piston movement. Sounds like one side or one piston isn't advancing, so when you squeeze the brakes it's flexing the rotor to the side.

Also check that the TS pads didn't glaze. When I used those pads on MT7s, they were bite-y as hell, but prone to glazing and wore down really fast.

Swapped out with another rotor and it’s fine now. Found one thread online about inconsistent rotor thickness being a potential issue, but hard to imagine SRAM’s QC is that shitty.


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[joetron]

Brakes.
I’m freaking out here. New pads (Trickstuff). New rotors (HS2 200mm), trued. Saint Brakes with fresh bleed. Bleed was yesterday, pad install today, so oil was nowhere near the pads.

Went to bed them in and it’s like a pulsing feel where one side of the rotor is grabbing more than the other. The bite is good, it’s just that throughout the rotation of the wheel, the bite fluctuates. Tried sanding down the rotor to no avail.

Feeling cursed.


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We’ve seen a few HS2 rotors do this. It’s a warranty issue.


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[Andeh]

We’ve seen a few HS2 rotors do this. It’s a warranty issue.


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Any suggestions for 2.0mm thick rotors that don't do this? I had poor luck with Magura HC Storm rotors when I ran those. One of my buddies seems to have really poor luck with HS2s, so want to relay the suggestion.

[joetron]

I’ve had 3 HS2 rotors that don’t do this on my own bike, and plenty more sold that are fine.


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[Dantheman]

Any suggestions for 2.0mm thick rotors that don't do this? I had poor luck with Magura HC Storm rotors when I ran those. One of my buddies seems to have really poor luck with HS2s, so want to relay the suggestion.

I've been through quite a few Hayes D series without any hint of that issue. As always, YMMV.

[Lvovsky]

Anyone want to suggest the best/cheap derailleur hanger alignment tool? Think not abbey…

You can make your own tool too:

https://youtu.be/sWdO4dnu18g

[XXX-er]

thats ^^ pretty cool, sure beats the 6" crescent wrench

[Roxtar]

We’ve seen a few HS2 rotors do this. It’s a warranty issue.


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Apparently, the same company that can't measure brake MC piston diameters has a hard time keeping rotor thickness uniform.

[Lvovsky]

Old/contaminated brake pad: toss them or save to use as spacers when doing something to the bike?

So any cool uses for the old brake pads?

[El Chupacabra]

How worn down are they, and contaminated by what?

I've had pretty good luck decontaminating bike brake pads by sanding them clear of any glaze, then spraying with automotive brake cleaner.

[Lvovsky]

How worn down are they, and contaminated by what?

I've had pretty good luck decontaminating bike brake pads by sanding them clear of any glaze, then spraying with automotive brake cleaner.

Not worn down much. Who knows what I spilled on them but they were singing. Decontamination attempts failed. New pads are nice and quiet

[Sandbox]

Can I switch between a 10-42 and a 11-42 rear cassette with limited ( any) fucking around? Just found a good deal on a cassette for the trainer but it’s slightly different.


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[Tailwind]

Shouldn’t be an issue. Especially if you don’t need to use all gears on the trainer.

I have this setup without issues. I tend to shift much less on the trainer and just use the middle part of the cassette. I’m also not shifting under load on the trainer.

Can I switch between a 10-42 and a 11-42 rear cassette with limited ( any) fucking around? Just found a good deal on a cassette for the trainer but it’s slightly different.


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[joetron]

Can I switch between a 10-42 and a 11-42 rear cassette with limited ( any) fucking around? Just found a good deal on a cassette for the trainer but it’s slightly different.


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There is a very good chance the cassettes use different driver bodies. A 10t won’t fit on a HG driver, and I can’t really think of an XD or Microspline cassette with an 11t for the smallest.
Pretty high level of fuckery, you’d have to buy a new driver body for the trainer.



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[Sandbox]

There is a very good chance the cassettes use different driver bodies. A 10t won’t fit on a HG driver, and I can’t really think of an XD or Microspline cassette with an 11t for the smallest.
Pretty high level of fuckery, you’d have to buy a new driver body for the trainer.



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Full story. Cassette is attached to a rear wheel. Was going to place that new rear wheel and cassette on the bike and move the cassette from the bike to the trainer.


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[Falcon3]

Zeb Bushings (Again)

Ok so I finally serviced my lowers on my '22 Zeb Ultimate RC2.1 170mm. When I put everything back together, all oiled and greased up, I took out the valve stem from the air chamber, stuck a zip tie in the seal so the lowers wouldn't have air pressure buildup anywhere. The fork is still pretty darn difficult to move through any part of its travel and I can't even force it through the last 15mm or so.

This would indicate my bushings are binding right? WIl most suspension folks be able to do this if I send it in for a full damper service/teardown? I'm looking at Butter in the Seattle area or S4 in Whistler. I could also send it to Diaz, but I'm trying to minimize the down time from mailing.

[Boissal]

One thing to try that will confirm bushing issues is to pick a stanchion and try to fit each leg of the lowers on that stanchion. If you have bushing issues it's unlikely to be on both sides (or at least you'd hope) so one side of the lowers should slide up the stanchion more easily than the other. If that's the case, I'd personally warranty the lowers (or the whole fork) before burnishing the bushings. Some people swear by the process and maintain that all forks should go through it. I buy it if the fork is already working well and you want to eek out every bit of performance from it, but if the thing is binding it should just be replaced. You shouldn't have to dump another $100 on top of a $1k+ fork to have it do its job.

[joetron]

Question for tubeless riding roadies…what sealant are you using? Seems like Stans and Orange Seal don’t work well over 50psi. Anybody tried Silca? Anything else?


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[J. Barron DeJong]

Question for tubeless riding roadies…what sealant are you using? Seems like Stans and Orange Seal don’t work well over 50psi. Anybody tried Silca? Anything else?


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DT Swiss imakes two sealants, high pressure and low. No idea if either are any good.

[volklpowdermaniac]

Servicing my hydra rear hub, assuming I'm not a Ham fisted idiot when I pull pawls and springs, and clean and regressed can/should I reuse the old ones, or should those get fresh p and s? Bout fourth season on hubs, one prior service by a shop

[Roxtar]

Servicing my hydra rear hub, assuming I'm not a Ham fisted idiot when I pull pawls and springs, and clean and regressed can/should I reuse the old ones, or should those get fresh p and s? Bout fourth season on hubs, one prior service by a shop

They should be fine but, as cheap as they are to replace, sort of a why not? situation, especially the springs.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

I have thoroughly abused hydras. Essentially run them almost totally dry.....nice and loud!!! P+S for 3+ seasons and they have always been nothing but perfect.