5 yrs ago when i bought a yeti 5.5 they only went as small as Medium but now 29ers they come in the smaller sizes
might it have something to do with seat angles ??
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort
Formerly Rludes025
Slight correction to this. I rode without a full face yesterday, so I could hear the shifting noises better, and multi-shifts with Transmission move the cage immediately, but the chain only moves up when it hits the ramps. So it still acts like it queues up. I'm guessing you could make it do some ugly shifts if you clicked shift like 6 times and put a ton of lateral tension on the chain, but I don't want to test that because I don't foresee me actually doing that. Clicking shift 2-3 times is no big deal.
Yeah having an inseam significantly shorter than the wheel diameter can be tough. At somewhat out of hobbit range at 5'4+ with a 30 in inseam a 29 is definitely doable, I'm just questioning when given a choice in a similar.bike between the 27.5 vs 29 wheel which is smarter. The Marin Rift Zone for example has both wheel sizes in same build at the small and medium sizes, Giant Trances have this choice also .
Piggybacking on my own comment, many of the bikes in this range the travel goes up 10mm from say 130 or 140 to 150 with the smaller wheel. My gut feeling is the slightly shorter travel with the bigger wheels pedals better, but not sure how that manifests in the real world of tighter EC singletrack.
IME, you will snap through tighter turns faster and boost off of smaller jumps higher/etc with the 27.5, but you will gain some pedalling efficiency, better rollover in chunk, and gain high speed straight line confidence with the 29. (Think Moab/Fruita). I love my mullet for this reason.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
To add to xxx
I’m a Shimano fan boi. And have bled the brakes MANY times in last 5+ years of doing it myself. Watch a good video , both kits online the knockoffs on Amazon and the legit one work, but the new hoses in the Shimano kits have a metal fitting that hooks into the nipple and it’s actually really nice, stops the tubing from coming off much less faffing.
Having said that, these new Shimano brakes do pretty well with the gravity bleed as seen on the syndicate YouTube video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=piWBVDh1pTE
IFFF, you remember to move the caliper around a bunch and finish with the nipple port up above level. That’s how I’ve had my best results with the new x120 series that have been out for last whatever. Occasionally I have to do the caliper purge seen at the end of most videos (but not in the syndicate one) but not all the time.
Do I detect a lot of anger flowing around this place? Kind of like a pubescent volatility, some angst, a lot of I'm-sixteen-and-angry-at-my-father syndrome?
fuck that noise.
gmen.
I reckon you’re overthinking this one. Modern 29 trail geometry is pretty dialed for anyone except midgets and groms (and petites like rideit’s wifey). At 5’4” I’d have no hesitation about going with a 29er, and depending on other fit considerations she might even prefer an M over S on some frames.
FWIW my 14 yo daughter is a bit taller at 5’6” and very comfortable on a Medium 29er w/ 130 travel f+r.
And while I was quite concerned when switching I now think my 160/143 29er is easier to handle around tight switchbacks than my old 120/120 26er. Its not just wheel size that matters.
I bleed like that, but burp at the lever first, to make sure I don’t drag bubbles down:
https://youtu.be/EcVDaHgetdw
May be overkill, but seems to work.
Anyone want to suggest the best/cheap derailleur hanger alignment tool? Think not abbey…
Old/contaminated brake pad: toss them or save to use as spacers when doing something to the bike?
Some decent pricing on Deore stuff around, so looking to finally upgrade the grons 24+ Cannondale Cujo from stock 8 sp drivetrain to 10 speed Deore. If cost is not a factor, since the parts seem to be pretty close, is there any reason to stay at 10 speed vs going to 11 speed Deore? I don't think he really needs the extra cog (thinking 11-42t with his current 30T front ring) but I don't see a big price difference either for a new rear mech, shifter , cassette and chain . I think 8 sp HG rear hub will work with either ,right?
Wide range Deore 11-speed is pretty nice. I have it on my Surly - 30 x 11-51 in place of the NX 32 x 11-42 that it came with. All steel cassette, steel chainring, should last forever.
If there's little price difference for the 11S vs 10S, I'd go with the 11. And both fit the 8-11S HG freehub.
Last edited by Duffman; 08-14-2023 at 10:49 AM.
Brakes.
I’m freaking out here. New pads (Trickstuff). New rotors (HS2 200mm), trued. Saint Brakes with fresh bleed. Bleed was yesterday, pad install today, so oil was nowhere near the pads.
Went to bed them in and it’s like a pulsing feel where one side of the rotor is grabbing more than the other. The bite is good, it’s just that throughout the rotation of the wheel, the bite fluctuates. Tried sanding down the rotor to no avail.
Feeling cursed.
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However many are in a shit ton.
So as some of you have encountered , specialized top headset bearing is a little off and needs the campy standard 41.8, no problem there WT has me covered. For the lower bearing in these new spec frames, is there anything proprietary about their IS 52/40 or will any bearing of this size work?
Do I detect a lot of anger flowing around this place? Kind of like a pubescent volatility, some angst, a lot of I'm-sixteen-and-angry-at-my-father syndrome?
fuck that noise.
gmen.
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