I had a similar issue 2 years ago that came from a kink in the housing... caused by catching on a downed tree/branch when trying to ride above my pay grade.
I had a similar issue 2 years ago that came from a kink in the housing... caused by catching on a downed tree/branch when trying to ride above my pay grade.
www.dpsskis.com
www.point6.com
formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
Fukt: a very small amount of snow.
Anyone know what size/length laces to order for five ten free rider pros?
i don’t have an intact lace to measure.
B-tension was fine. Turned the clutch off and it shifted fine. Serviced clutch and reinstalled. Still wouldn't shift out of 1st with the clutch on. Turned the clutch on and off a few times to A/B and this happened:
Is this repairable or am I buying a new derailleur? On the upside, it's shifting great!
Shit! I don’t know any about replacing that lever assembly, but maybe a local shop will help with a goodwill warranty replacement.
Edit: looks like that lever and c clip might be about $15.
Also, maybe someone can confirm, but I think the long tab of the clutch clamp should goes towards the from against the cam. The short side to the back against the adjustment screw.
Is it pointless to top up sealant when there is lumps of old sealant already rolling around?
Probably going to change tires in a month or so, so trying to avoid messing around with them untill then
Having liquid sealant in there is better than not having liquid sealant, and I don’t think the Stan’s boogers will cause much of an issue other than rattling around.
Ideally, you’d pop the bead off and pull out the chunks of dried sealant. But there’s a risk that the bead of the tire is stuck to the rim tape, and unseating the tire will pull up the tape and wreck the seal, requiring you to re-tape.
If it were me, I’d feed in some new sealant through the valve stem, or pull off the bead with the expectation that you might have to re-tape, which you may have to do anyway when you get your new tires.
And when you get your new tires, best practice is to use fresh sealant. But I have definitely reused sealant from an older tire and added some new sealant to make up any missing volume.
There are eleventy options for sealant injectors. I still use my trusty syringe with plastic hose from TruckerCo, but you can get a lot fancier than that these days. It’s a must-have, IMO, cause pulling the bead to top off sealant is a comparative PIA and risky.
Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
Use the stans injector myself, but in a pinch the 2 oz stans or similar squirt bottle also work great for injecting new sealant through the valve.
Great excuse to order some LockLaces and never tie your shoes again. All my sports shoes have been converted and now I just reuse the laces when I get a new pair. Never failed on me once.
Am I the only one that has never had a sealant booger in their tires?
I use Continental sealant, FTR.
That reminds me - I should probably buy another bottle...
I never get boogers. I change tires out multiple times a year so it doesn't have time to form. I use the 2oz bottle often.
No harm in adding more sealant when boogers are rattling around in there, especially if you're going to replace the tire soon anyway. Done it many times, never died.
I actually think the 2oz bottle works better than the Stans injector.
I also just use the 2oz Stans bottle.
I use the Stans regular sealant with a bottle, but the “Race Sealant” is to chunky to get through valve stem.
I use the Stan's injector - works great despite usually being a little messy.
I've tried the 2oz bottle w/o success. I can't get enough flow, until I cut the tip off enough that it no longer seats in the valve stem. I guess like drilling a precision hole in the tip would probably work, but I've always wondered if I could get something to work on the trail (I do carry a 2oz on the trail, but with no confidence I could actually get it into the tire).
Tips?
I also just use a Stan's 2oz bottle. But with orange seal.
Generic amazon syringe with a hose and a rigid plastic "needle": https://www.amazon.com/Thinvik-Tubel...7W1HVYKC&psc=1 This one even comes with a core removal tool.
Don't need any fancy features like a valve (wtf?) or a screw-on interface.
The plastic needle isn't narrow enough to go all the way through the hole at the bottom of my WTB valves so I can't remove sealant without breaking bead (should work with some other valve designs that have larger holes)...but as long as I don't push it in super fast, it has no problem filling through the valve.
IME an old orange seal bottle works fine for injecting stans
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Honestly, for shame, I was doing this until a year or two ago. Def relative PIA but never really had issues. Injecting is so much easier but my home brew sealant is pretty chunky making it barely doable, but still better than breaking the bead.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air
LOL
I buy natural latex rubber mold builder. Used to buy it by the quart, $25?, that would make three quarts. Now I've had a gallon can for four(?) years, $80. Makes three gallons of sealant. That'd be $240 worth of standard Stan's, if you're springing for the race sealant, it's a lot more.
My recipe is:
1 part RV winterizer/antifreeze (non-toxic/biodegradable)
2 parts latex mold builder
3 parts H2O
+/- glitter as desired
Been on this program for a decade now. Works well.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air
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