Ask the experts

[frorider]

Could use https://www.jensonusa.com/problem-so...height-adapter but would rather just find a cage that slides further down

[Andeh]

What about Wolf Tooth Morse Ti?

[frorider]

I have cargo cages like that for the bikepacking bike but this is for a bike where I’d want easy access (no voile strap) to bottle. Thanks for the idea though

[Andeh]

I wasn't referring to the cargo/strap version, just their bottle cage with extra holes & slots for vertical adjustment. I used one when I had a GG (on the underside of top tube) to fit a bigger bottle. I don't know whether it gives you a full inch lower position than a typical Zee cage or similar though. https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/.../morse-cage-ti

[frorider]

Gotcha thx

[scrublover]

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<a href="https://kingcage.com/products/stainless-steel-bottle-lowering-cage">Stainless Steel Bottle Lowering &ndash; King Cage</a></p>
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This as well. Not as much adjustment as the Wolftooth cage, but drops it a smidge lower.&nbsp;</p>

[Dee Hubbs]

Gotcha thx

Elite Rocko Carbon
Carbon = Yes
Side Load = Yes
Elongated mouning holes = Yes
All of Elite cages have a pretty adjustable mounting pattern.

[evdog]

I rescued a no name MTB frame from a neighbors garbage a while back and was going to build it into a bar bike. Was just looking at it, and the seat tube measures 28.4mm. I've heard of 28.6. With a seat clamp, would a 27.2mm post work?

[toast2266]

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I rescued a no name MTB frame from a neighbors garbage a while back and was going to build it into a bar bike. Was just looking at it, and the seat tube measures 28.4mm. I&#39;ve heard of 28.6. With a seat clamp, would a 27.2mm post work?

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Not without a shim.&nbsp; But I would venture a guess that it&#39;s actually 28.6 and either the top where you measure it has gotten crushed in a bit or it has some paint in it.&nbsp; I&#39;d jam a 28.6 in there.&nbsp; If the jamming was unsuccesful, I&#39;d hone it.&nbsp; If it was still unsucceful, I&#39;d ream it.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

[frorider]

<p>
Elite Rocko cage has slots but unfortunately they are positioned such that it doesnt get my bottle any lower than my Arundel or other carbon cages. &nbsp;The wolf tooth gets it a smidge lower but not enough. &nbsp;The industry has not noticed that many riders with full suspension XL or L frames could fit a 750 or 1000 ml bottle if the cage were lower. &nbsp;I sometimes design products for the ski and bike industry, maybe I&#39;ll reach out to some US companies and get protos made. &nbsp;</p>

[stuckathuntermtn]

Yeah, I just had to use one of those BRad adjusters to get my bear spray to fit.

[Dantheman]

Need to patch a tire. I have radial auto patches on hand but my tube of rubber cement has dried out. Can I sub contact cement to glue the patch on? Seems like it should be fine since contact cement is a stronger bond, this is going on the inside of the tire, and the contact cement says it's suitable for rubber.

[g_man80]

Should be fine. I have used barge cement.

[singlesline]

Barge should work fine--it is used on rubber shoe soles all the time.

But any auto parts store should be able to sell you a fresh tube (possibly with more patches) for $3.

[XXX-er]

I can not say for sure but I would not try to use contact cement SO rather than wank around I would just buy the right stuff

IME tire patch cement usually lasts a long time if the tube has not been opened so I have seen some patch kits come with 2 small tubes I have never had a flat with tubless eva but before tubeless even tho I carried a patch kit I didnt patch tubes on the trail I would instal the tube I brought along and I took the dead tube home

When I had 6 of them I patch them all in a bug free evironmet while having a beverage using the kit in my seat pack and air them up a few days to to test for leaks then I buy a new kit for the seat pack

[snoboy]

I've got a lazy piston in one of my TRP DH-R Evo calipers. It's lazy on the return - actuates fine, but doesn't retract, leaves me with drag on that pad.Did several cycles of cleaning and exercising, but no dice. Am I looking at pulling it all apart (ie splitting open the caliper, pulling the piston and seal, etc), replacement, or are there other tricks I haven't found via Google yet?

[evdog]

Have you tried lubricating it with some brake fluid when you exercised it? If not, that usually helps get them moving freely again.

[snoboy]

I did. Read recommendations for and against that, but the TRP troubleshooting says to do it.

[XXX-er]

as i understand piston seals move in the bore following the piston and flip open/ closed on the springyness of the lip of the rubber seal ?

I havent had flacid piston issues since the Hayes mag which was along time ago but I am still triggered by just reading the word Hayes

[snoboy]

I think I figured out what was going on. I was on the wrong track and misinterpreting the "symptoms". I saw one piston moving out and not retracting, but really it was the other three pistons not moving out enough and so the fluid had to go somewhere. I had 3 lazy pistons. Lot's more cleaning and exercising, as well as a good bleed and things are much better.

[XXX-er]

Great ^^ IME a lot of things one can make run just by taking them apart and cleaning or sft

my old Hayes Mags were always dragging, mind you we were freeriding so bending rotors and that was the very first incantation of a disc brake

also I had 3 line failures one of them on top of the car driving to lift ride,

so I bought BB7 cable discs which had about the same power but no modulation and never touched another hydralic disc brake for 2 yrs

[zion zig zag]

Help me experts…In my rush to replace pads tonight (TRP Trail EVO’s), I tried to take out the pad retention bolt without removing the clip at the end. So I stripped the caliper thread hole, and seemed to fuck up the pad retaining bolt too (I took the pin from the back brake and tried to thread it, no dice). So….what’s the: 1. Best fix 2. Fastest/easiest fix?
Seems like best fix would be to tap the housing and helicoil or something? I think the calipers are magnesium? They seem pretty soft, so is that fix possible? Next “best” fix seems like it’d be to replace the caliper (for $130 bucks via TRP). Both of those options would take some time as I’d have to rely on a local mechanics time frame to tap and helicoil, if it’s even possible. And wait for a new caliper. Repair is time sensitive as I have a friend coming to ride this weekend and I’d neeed to get this taken care of by Saturday.

Faster/Easier: Is it possible to get a longer/fully threaded bolt and a nylock nut and retain the pads that way? Trp says the bolt is an M4 at 31.2mm long, so would a 35mm full threaded M4 fit and then have room to thread a nut on the other side? No idea where I’d get that part, just thinking out loud I guess. Thanks.

[Andeh]

Best quick fix would be to just run one of those bent half-wire retainers like Shimano uses on their low end brakes. Or any piece of wire run through and twisted off. All that pin is there for is to stop the pads from falling out (some Magura pads don't even use them and just rely on their magnet system). Calipers probably are aluminum, so you might be able to helicoil it. I dunno, it's pretty small.

[zion zig zag]

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Best quick fix would be to just run one of those bent half-wire retainers like Shimano uses on their low end brakes. Or any piece of wire run through and twisted off. All that pin is there for is to stop the pads from falling out (some Magura pads don&#39;t even use them and just rely on their magnet system). Calipers probably are aluminum, so you might be able to helicoil it. I dunno, it&#39;s pretty small.

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Ok, good to hear that&#39;ll be ok. I sized a cotter pin, cut it to length and bent the ends to prevent it backing out. Just went out and bedded in the brakes and it seems fine. I may just live with it that way unless I get a wild hair to have a mechanic fix it prettier.&nbsp;</p>
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[Danno]

I have an old Yeti 575, size M (I think it's 2008? the first year of the hyrdoformed frame?), it was my regular bike until 3 years ago. It's in good shape for a bike that old because I was riding it regularly, got it tuned up regularly, with parts replaced when needed, etc, and while I am a hack I am a cautious hack so didn't wreck badly very often. What's a good price for it? Not a "best I could get" price but more a "sell quickly, sell to a maggot for their kid, etc" price. It would make a good starter bike for someone just starting out or for a growing teen, and I realized that my original ideas for using it just aren't happening, and I'd like the garage space back.

In case anyone is curious, I sold it for $275 on FB. But it wasn't in as good a shape as I remembered, the rear brake didn't work at all so I spent a little money to have a mechanic get that going and make sure everything else worked fine, but the dropper post didn't work (he couldn't fix that) and I didn't have the old rigid seatpost to put on there and didn't want to sink any more money into it. And like I said, I am a "sell quick" kinda seller, and after the first guy came to look at it and didn't buy it, I was willing to make a good deal just to be done with it. I listed it for $425 there, got some bites but not tons (other than "Is this still available?" PMs which I ignored), dropped the price to $375, but then took $100 less.