Ask the experts

[Dee Hubbs]

Thanks for the info. I took a look at the 2 grooves on the roller surface. Not much great in there. I'll order up either the nexus or ShadowRD+ grease. It'll probably depend on what's in stock at this point!
Another question: The shimano nexus (hub) grease can be used as internal hub grease as well as clutch grease. Can the new ShadowRD+ grease be used for the internal hub, or only the clutch?

The new Shadow RD+ Grease is not backwards compatible, Nexus grease is still needed for Nexus hubs, and even though they have formulated a "better performing" grease for the RD Stabilizers, the old Nexus is still officially usable.

[teledad]

Anti seize or grease for a threaded bottom bracket?

Grease and torque that sucker down (with a torque wrench if possible). Typically 25-35 ft lbs.

[El Chupacabra]

I use Teflon tape and grease. No creaks!

[Muggydude]

Is there any actual performance/durability downside to the creaking bottom bracket? Or is it purely an audible annoyance


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[Dee Hubbs]

Is there any actual performance/durability downside to the creaking bottom bracket? Or is it purely an audible annoyance

Creaking = movement. Movement = wear. Wear = increased tolerances. Increased tolerances = increased movement (go back to step two and repeat).
It is also an audio annoyance.

[jackstraw]

Grease (frame material?)

Yeah, the reason I ask is because of this vid...the guy works for Sram.
The "official" Sram vid shows grease.

https://youtu.be/HqhV8nTtQZc

[Skistack]

Anti seize or grease for a threaded bottom bracket?

Anti seize on titanium frames.


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[rideit]

Creaking = movement. Movement = wear. Wear = increased tolerances. Increased tolerances = increased movement (go back to step two and repeat).
It is also an audio annoyance.

This.
A creak is a cry for help!

[grskier]

OK, idiot brain block moment here.

I have an 11 speed drivetrain with xt components. so, to do a service on my hub I bought a new HG driver body... forgetting that my existing driver body is an XD and has the TRS+ cassette on it (9-46T)

My appt to get the hub done is Thursday.

Do I get a new cassette (HG) overnighted or an XD driver?

Or, do I get a 11 spd SRAM cassette (XD)?

will that work with my Shimano derailleur fine?

I'll ETA a pic of existing cassette etc in a few minutes.

[El Chupacabra]

What are you wanting serviced on the hub? Or, what are the issues that are causing you to bring it to the shop?

I wouldn't replace the HG freehub or an XD driver as a part of routine servicing, assuming they're functioning normally (no pawl slipping, for example).

[grskier]

What are you wanting serviced on the hub? Or, what are the issues that are causing you to bring it to the shop?

I wouldn't replace the HG freehub or an XD driver as a part of routine servicing, assuming they're functioning normally (no pawl slipping, for example).

Well, I found the hack to upgrade the 370 to a 240

[El Chupacabra]

Well, I found the hack to upgrade the 370 to a 240

OK. Something I don't have any experience with...

DT experts here?

[TrueNorth]

For those of you swapping multiple wheelsets on a frame, how do you deal with offsets in rotor position between different hub/rotor combinations? Use shims between the rotors and hubs to make everything line up? Get really good at adjusting the brake position each time you swap wheels? Just buy the exact same hub and rotor for every wheel so you don't have to deal with it?

Multiple sources have told me "just loosen the brake mounting bolts, and retighten while squeezing the brake lever", which never seems to work well enough to avoid rubbing. Brakes are TRP Hy-Rd post mount, and tightening the mounting bolts always seems to shift it out of position so I spend a lot of time trying to get it aligned properly.

[Dee Hubbs]

+ XD freehub allows you to upgrade to 12 speed in future, and allow for 10t cog
+ new HG cassette allows you to put that e13 cassette where it belongs (in the trash)
+ all 11 speed cassette will work fine with your Shimano 11speed RD
- SRAM HG cassettes are boat anchors

I would want a fresh cassette with a fresh hub build.

[HAB]

OK. Something I don't have any experience with...

DT experts here?

You can take the ratchet ring out of the hub body and replace it with a star ratchet ring. It doesn't turn them into a 240, the hubshell is different/heavier, etc, but it does get rid of the pawl system and use the same ratchet bits. It's not cheap, especially if you're buying the tools to do it, since you need the special DT tool for both the pawl ratchet ring and the star one.

[HAB]

Multiple sources have told me "just loosen the brake mounting bolts, and retighten while squeezing the brake lever", which never seems to work well enough to avoid rubbing. Brakes are TRP Hy-Rd post mount, and tightening the mounting bolts always seems to shift it out of position so I spend a lot of time trying to get it aligned properly.

Do you have an adapter bumping up to a larger rotor size? If it's the style where you have two long bolts that go through both the caliper and adapter, the bolt heads don't sit flat against the caliper and make it much more prone to moving when you tighten it. The four bolt style ones are way better.

[grskier]

You can take the ratchet ring out of the hub body and replace it with a star ratchet ring. It doesn't turn them into a 240, the hubshell is different/heavier, etc, but it does get rid of the pawl system and use the same ratchet bits. It's not cheap, especially if you're buying the tools to do it, since you need the special DT tool for both the pawl ratchet ring and the star one.

Yeah, it's not the cheapest swap, but less than a new wheel set. And... I found a shop with the 370 tool and the 240 tool... don't get me started about waiting a month... oh, I already ranted about that in the rant thread.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_XpRZCLTX4

[grskier]

+ XD freehub allows you to upgrade to 12 speed in future, and allow for 10t cog
+ new HG cassette allows you to put that e13 cassette where it belongs (in the trash)
+ all 11 speed cassette will work fine with your Shimano 11speed RD
- SRAM HG cassettes are boat anchors

I would want a fresh cassette with a fresh hub build.

This e13 hub has lasted over twice as long as the last and is still not in bad condition... but yeah, wasn't stoked on the first ones life

[mall walker]

Noob question but, I read somewhere you should be using your index fingers only on the brakes. Where my brake levers are / how they're angled, it's much more comfortable / easier to get leverage using my middle finger, though that is a weirder hand position. Do I just move the brakes inward a finger-width-ish?

[Muggydude]

Anybody have a good suggestion for half finger, non-padded gloves? I have padded ones, but they make my hands numb compared to no gloves. I want gloves though for crash protection, chewed my hands up a few times


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[toast2266]

Multiple sources have told me "just loosen the brake mounting bolts, and retighten while squeezing the brake lever", which never seems to work well enough to avoid rubbing. Brakes are TRP Hy-Rd post mount, and tightening the mounting bolts always seems to shift it out of position so I spend a lot of time trying to get it aligned properly.

I adjust the caliper every time. But I don't swap the wheels back and forth that often. Loosen bolts, squeeze lever, lightly tighten bolts. Assuming it still rubs, loosen one bolt and manually align caliper by eye. Repeat until no rub. Assuming the 2 wheels aren't massively different and the rotors on both wheels are straight-ish, that's usually a 45 second process.

If you really want, you can shim the rotor. They make very thin shims for exactly that purpose.

[Dee Hubbs]

If you really want, you can shim the rotor. They make very thin shims for exactly that purpose.

I prefer to shim rotors and shim cassettes so they can be swapped without adjustment.
Find the wheel that has the rotor the furthest outboard, and shim the other wheels to match. Centerlock rotors shims come in 0.25mm. For 6 rotors bolt I just use the "2 hole, no turn safety washers" as shims.

[toast2266]

Noob question but, I read somewhere you should be using your index fingers only on the brakes. Where my brake levers are / how they're angled, it's much more comfortable / easier to get leverage using my middle finger, though that is a weirder hand position. Do I just move the brakes inward a finger-width-ish?

Use whatever finger you want. But yes, most people space their levers inboard from the grips and brake with their index finger. My levers are ~2" inboard from my grips.

Putting your brake levers slightly more inboard can feel more natural to point your braking finger slightly inboard and inline with your forearm when your elbows are out. Putting your brakes levers closer to the grips forces your hand to point more directly forward, which can make it feel awkward to get your elbows out to the side (where they usually should be while descending).

[EWG]

This.
A creak is a cry for help!

Well, I disagree a bit. I know folks who have ridden creaking BBs for years and years with no downside - other than the fact that no one will ride with them anymore and the fact that they are now completely insane...

Creaking, if everything is tight when you check it, usually is such minor movement as to not be an functional issue.

[EWG]

I prefer to shim rotors and shim cassettes so they can be swapped without adjustment.
Find the wheel that has the rotor the furthest outboard, and shim the other wheels to match. Centerlock rotors shims come in 0.25mm. For 6 rotors bolt I just use the "2 hole, no turn safety washers" as shims.

I'm with toast - I just adjust every time. I've done it enough that it's really quick and I think figuring out all the shims necessary to make all the wheels work without adjustment would drive me to heavy drinking.