Ask the experts

[Jtlange]

I blew the damper on my Fox Float DPS Evol Performance after 2500 miles. Was so loud I thought I cracked the frame. I've done air sleeve services on it, but never rebuilt the damper. Not sure it is worth it (now that it is kaput).

Should I replace it with a new Fox Float X? 2020 Kona Hei Hei CR. I tend to rally the uphill and the downhill. Not much out there in a 190x45. Fork is at 140mm.

I'm thinking something with a external res. b/c the downhills here are loooong and more oil volume could help keep the oil temp lower.

Maybe RockShox instead?

Id check the tune code and see if fox can get it close on a Float X. Otherwise if you want something more plush, a Super Deluxe will be great too.

[jamal]

Heh, My float on my hei hei blew up last summer. It is a common issue on those shocks, where the damper shaft just snaps off.



Kind of waiting for it to happen again. Bill at fox was quite a bit for that one even with shop deal, but i did also have it revalved at the same time (digressive firm for better xc pedaling). Will send it in for service over the winter and maybe ask to have that shaft preemptively replaced. Been thinking about a new bike otherwise I'd probably go to a sidluxe and maybe a sid fork to go with it. Wasn't impressed with the fiddly bullshit in the fit4 damper that keeps sucking in air.

But, I also notice that most times when I take the linkages apart on the frame at least some of the bearings are fairly unhappy about turning, which would introduce a bending force into the shock. mine is also a 2020 and i've replaced all the bearings in the frame like 3 times now. The main bearings, and bearings in the linkage last longer. The ones in the top tube and seatstays seem to not want to turn as soon as you press them in, which i suppose means a slightly too close clearance there.

[donutlynx]

Id check the tune code and see if fox can get it close on a Float X. Otherwise if you want something more plush, a Super Deluxe will be great too.

Good info - thank you! I'll contact Fox and see what they think.

Heh, My float on my hei hei blew up last summer. It is a common issue on those shocks, where the damper shaft just snaps off.

Kind of waiting for it to happen again. Bill at fox was quite a bit for that one even with shop deal, but i did also have it revalved at the same time (digressive firm for better xc pedaling). Will send it in for service over the winter and maybe ask to have that shaft preemptively replaced. Been thinking about a new bike otherwise I'd probably go to a sidluxe and maybe a sid fork to go with it. Wasn't impressed with the fiddly bullshit in the fit4 damper that keeps sucking in air.

But, I also notice that most times when I take the linkages apart on the frame at least some of the bearings are fairly unhappy about turning, which would introduce a bending force into the shock. mine is also a 2020 and i've replaced all the bearings in the frame like 3 times now. The main bearings, and bearings in the linkage last longer. The ones in the top tube and seatstays seem to not want to turn as soon as you press them in, which i suppose means a slightly too close clearance there.

Woah - interesting! I haven't taken it apart yet, but by the sound of it - that is what happened. Helps me make the decision that I will not be doing a rebuild. Linkage has always moved freely on the bike with the shock removed, and I've replaced all the bearings once so far. Thanks for the info - will check them all again when I remove the dead shock and replace if needed.

Been thinking about a new bike, too, but I do really like this one for a semi-lightweight all-around rig. Corners like it is on rails with the way the back wheel stays planted. Maybe a Hightower would suit my needs better...wheel see.

[radam]

Heh, My float on my hei hei blew up last summer. It is a common issue on those shocks, where the damper shaft just snaps off.



Kind of waiting for it to happen again. Bill at fox was quite a bit for that one even with shop deal, but i did also have it revalved at the same time (digressive firm for better xc pedaling). Will send it in for service over the winter and maybe ask to have that shaft preemptively replaced. Been thinking about a new bike otherwise I'd probably go to a sidluxe and maybe a sid fork to go with it. Wasn't impressed with the fiddly bullshit in the fit4 damper that keeps sucking in air.

But, I also notice that most times when I take the linkages apart on the frame at least some of the bearings are fairly unhappy about turning, which would introduce a bending force into the shock. mine is also a 2020 and i've replaced all the bearings in the frame like 3 times now. The main bearings, and bearings in the linkage last longer. The ones in the top tube and seatstays seem to not want to turn as soon as you press them in, which i suppose means a slightly too close clearance there.

Similar issues with bearings on my 2016 Hei Hei. First time I went to inspect them (granted, I'm second owner so maybe it'd been a long time) took the rocker link off, pulled the bolt, went to go pop out the driveside bearing and did a double-take when I basically saw dust where there should've been a bearing. Some of the others are also a bit notchy after pressing in, so I just try to pull the lip seals and re-grease semi frequently. The flex-stay provides a ton of support at what I think is the sag point. With the shock removed, the bike will sit right at that spot in the travel range. I imagine a lot of the bike's eagerness comes from that, but it also does a good impression of notchy bearings which means having to do a lot more disassembly to really know the current status. Maybe it also contributes to them actually becoming notchy. I dunno. Love the bike but mine is getting a bit haggard.

[smmokan]

FYI you can use any smart trainer with a free app that doesn't even require internet access. It just controls the resistance according to whatever program you've chosen or created. There are several of these. I ride the trainer several hours a week during the winter and don't pay for anything or do any "virtual" rides.

Which app(s) do you use?

[singlesline]

Which app(s) do you use?

Garmin has an app (and I don't think you need to use a garmin computer for it to work).

I know I can control mine with my Wahoo computer--it will show watts/cadence and let me adjust resistance. Believe you can even get it to do automated workouts for free with a TrainingPeaks account (although they will try to sell you their wahoo systm training app/plan instead).

A lot of trainer manufacturers offer a free app too. My Elite came with or an app (phone/tablet/computer)--seems like it will let you follow various training plans, do some "video courses", or build a resistance ramp based on a GPS track you load in.

Supposedly this website works pretty well too without installing anything: https://flux-web.vercel.app/

Unfortunately this is like the absolute worst time to buy a trainer. The going price for Elite Direto XR-T is literally double what it was a couple months ago. I sold a BNIB one on here in August for $300 when some ebay sellers had them for 350 and now they are $699 everywhere.

[climberevan]

The Elite MyEtraining app is good and super cheap.

TrainerDay is great and free (paid gets a ton more features).

[XtrPickels]

I blew the damper on my Fox Float DPS Evol Performance after 2500 miles. Was so loud I thought I cracked the frame. I've done air sleeve services on it, but never rebuilt the damper. Not sure it is worth it (now that it is kaput).

Should I replace it with a new Fox Float X? 2020 Kona Hei Hei CR. I tend to rally the uphill and the downhill. Not much out there in a 190x45. Fork is at 140mm.

I'm thinking something with a external res. b/c the downhills here are loooong and more oil volume could help keep the oil temp lower.

Maybe RockShox instead?

I have the new FLOAT (not X) on my Epic EVO and it's significantly more plush than the the DPS that came off it, but it also doesn't lock out like the DPS if that matters. It does still get pretty hot and I can feel some performance fade / harshness during long and chunky descents. Better than the DPS though.

[rudy]

An input from folks on size medium bikes on preferred rear wheel size? I'm building up a medium V1 Druid and struggling on rear wheel size. I value cornering, handling and fun more so than downright bombing although speed has it's place as well. I'm 5'9" and currently have an Evil Calling (27.5 but giving to my wife) & and a mullet Heckler and wondering if I should go full 29er on the Druid or stick w the mullet. I've never spent any real time on a 29er to know if I'd prefer that or not. This will be a do it all bike (when not on the ebike) mostly trail riding but will have a handful of days at the bike park as well. I feel like if I was riding a large it would be a no brainer to go full 29 but not as sure w a medium. Any folks in my size have any advice?

[XXX-er]

I'm 5'8" so a solid medium, the 5.5 yeti it was mt first 29/29 it was an effort to get around switchbacks especaly at first

the bullit is a mullet and that bike is very snappy getting around the same turns

i'm sold on the bullit and mullets

[Andeh]

Also 5'8", always ride mediums unless the brand has weird sizing. I prefer mullets at this point. I *can* ride 29 (owned a couple) but I find mullets easier to move around on for my leg length, and appreciate less ass buzz on steeps. For our height, I'd only say 29 if: you raced, or you lived in a place with more rolling, flowy terrain (like CO).

[Eluder]

5’7” - I’m happy on 29ers unless it’s a big travel bike. Bigger bikes I like the mullet.

Updated: I’m on a medium Sentinel, but also have a medium Dreadnaught. The forbidden is mullet. I’ve been happy on 29er trail bikes since the first Trek Remedy (2013, I think.) I road full 27.5 on the bigger bike until the legit mullet crop started turning up.

XXXer, I hated my 5.5 but that was mainly leverage curve related.

[toast2266]

I'm 5'9". 32" inseam. I waffle between mediums and larges, although I've been mostly on larges lately. Haven't owned a 27.5 wheel in years. 29" wheels buzz my ass almost never. Haven't spent enough time on a mullet to arrive at any definitive conclusions on the handling. 29's definitely prefer going fast and straight.

[mildbill.]

Sapporo if going 30.9 to 34.9.

I laughed.

[Duffman]

Switching my son's 24+ in Cannondale cujo from its 8 speed grip shifter setup to a wider range rear cassette and trigger shifter, 10 or 11 speed. Was thinking Microshift X but picked up a cheap Deore 5120 rear mech and 11 speed chain.

Was going to go 11-42t 10 speed but saw that 11 speed parts are pretty similar price. Any disadvantage other than a little more $ to going 11? The derailer will work w either as per Shimano docs

[Dantheman]

How foolish would it be to buy a discontinued bike from Canyon? FWIW, this will be a city/commuter bike not a MTB, but still, I seem to recall hearing about warranty support issues with Canyon.

I'm currently looking at two bikes, Canyon Roadlite 6 (https://www.canyon.com/en-us/hybrid-...rGridContainer) and Specialized Sirrus X 4 (https://www.specialized.com/us/en/si...iABEgJRjPD_BwE).

The Canyon has better parts for less money, but is being discontinued. The Canyon also has a much steeper HTA (72.5* vs 70*), and the geo in general looks a lot more like a road bike with flat bars than a purpose-built urban bike. Neither is bike is in stock locally, but if either has fit issues dealing with a local Specialized dealer will be a hell of a lot easier. All of that still has me leaning towards the Sirrus, but the parts spec on the Canyon is just so much better.

[Roxtar]

Canyon or Specialized?
You are a glutton for punishment

[Dantheman]

Canyon or Specialized?
You are a glutton for punishment

Options are a bit limited in this category.

[singlesline]

How foolish would it be to buy a discontinued bike from Canyon? FWIW, this will be a city/commuter bike not a MTB, but still, I seem to recall hearing about warranty support issues with Canyon.

I'm currently looking at two bikes, Canyon Roadlite 6 (https://www.canyon.com/en-us/hybrid-...rGridContainer) and Specialized Sirrus X 4 (https://www.specialized.com/us/en/si...iABEgJRjPD_BwE).

The Canyon has better parts for less money, but is being discontinued. The Canyon also has a much steeper HTA (72.5* vs 70*), and the geo in general looks a lot more like a road bike with flat bars than a purpose-built urban bike. Neither is bike is in stock locally, but if either has fit issues dealing with a local Specialized dealer will be a hell of a lot easier. All of that still has me leaning towards the Sirrus, but the parts spec on the Canyon is just so much better.

I would have zero qualms with the Canyon. What parts are you worried about? There's nothing special on that bike, and I don't think you're going to have any issues with a normal aluminum frame and carbon fork.

Everything else is just standard components you can get anywhere. Even if you had a warranty problem, I'm not sure what Canyon discontinuing it would mean--the parts still exist and the company still exists.

Would probably prefer the canyon geo for a city bike too. Looking more like a flat bar road bike is a plus in my book for city/commuter use (as long as you can get the fit right--the drop shown in the photos seems like a bit much for a casual bike).

[Dantheman]

I would have zero qualms with the Canyon. What parts are you worried about? There's nothing special on that bike, and I don't think you're going to have any issues with a normal aluminum frame and carbon fork.

Not a lot of specific worries. XT clutches have a reputation for going bad but probably nothing to worry about for this use case. Most of the reviews are in German but some of the English ones mentioned issues with fit/finish/assembly on receipt. It also just kinda blows me away that Canyon offers this bike for under $1k and makes me wonder where corners may have been cut.

Would probably prefer the canyon geo for a city bike too. Looking more like a flat bar road bike is a plus in my book for city/commuter use (as long as you can get the fit right--the drop shown in the photos seems like a bit much for a casual bike).

The amount of bar drop does look like a lot. It could just be that the setup was bad for the shoot, but it does seem consistent with photos that people posted to reviews. A more upright position seems better for visibility in traffic (my ability to see what's around me, not others seeing me) and general comfort. The Sirrus geo is really close to my old bike. It's possible I may prefer the Roadlite geo but it's an unknown quantity.

Several reviews mentioned the bike coming with the stem installed upside down. That appears to be by design to lower the stack, but I suppose I could flip it to bring the bars up.

[rudy]

Canyon or Specialized?
You are a glutton for punishment

Obviously the guy is a glutton for punishment. I mean the dude just got hit by a car a few weeks back, right??? (glad it was mearly a scare & bike damage)

[Dantheman]

What am I supposed to do, *drive* to work? Gross.

[Dantheman]

Just ordered the Canyon. I just couldn't bring myself to pay hundreds more for cheaper parts and with only one bike left in stock I couldn't afford to continue waffling. I wish the tires were 35s, but otherwise the build on the Canyon is just perfect. Hopefully I like the geo.

[g_man80]

SRAM G2 RSC: How do you remove the red SwingLink assembly and pivot pin? The black SwingLink is really easy since there’s a pinch bolt to remove first and then the pin slides out. For the red SwingLink, the SRAM manual just says to remove by hand and sort of glosses over it. Anyway I can’t seem to figure out how to remove the pin. Perhaps something with the white plastic piece?

[Falcon3]

SRAM G2 RSC: How do you remove the red SwingLink assembly and pivot pin? The black SwingLink is really easy since there’s a pinch bolt to remove first and then the pin slides out. For the red SwingLink, the SRAM manual just says to remove by hand and sort of glosses over it. Anyway I can’t seem to figure out how to remove the pin. Perhaps something with the white plastic piece?

The proper way to service G2 brakes is to carefully remove the lever and caliper from the bike, walk slowly to your trash can, and throw them away. Replace with literally any other brakes (any model Shimano, Codes, MT5-7, TRP, Hayes, Hope, etc)