Ask the experts

[XXX-er]

you could just change the oil yourself ? Not familiar with SID but the need for service might depend on how hard you are on your bike

My shock was leaking so I sent mine in when there was too much snow to ride, winter is the best time to send in shocks or forks

[Duffman]

Do any of the Amazon cheapo hose cutter/ barb pusher tools work ok? Need to cut some new prebled Shimano brakes for the kids bike and dont have the little Shimano block holders. Since I need to get a tool anyway , any recommendations?

[El Chupacabra]

Do any of the Amazon cheapo hose cutter/ barb pusher tools work ok? Need to cut some new prebled Shimano brakes for the kids bike and dont have the little Shimano block holders. Since I need to get a tool anyway , any recommendations?

I've cut brake hose with a razor blade and also with Shimano cable housing (not hydraulic housing) cutters - - both work fine, just be sure the cut is clean and you can see the hole in the hose. The blocks are handy if there's a vice near, but otherwise just get another set of hands to hold the hose upright so fluid doesn't spill much.

[chaka]

Hi Experts. I'm updating drivetrain parts on my kid's hardtail, he needs a new cassette. I've read a 10 sp chain works fine on a 9 speed cassette + shifters.... can the experts confirm? I need to go with a 10sp chainring as its the only variant that works with his wonky BCD and desired tooth count.

[XXX-er]

Do any of the Amazon cheapo hose cutter/ barb pusher tools work ok? Need to cut some new prebled Shimano brakes for the kids bike and dont have the little Shimano block holders. Since I need to get a tool anyway , any recommendations?

You don't wana crimp the end of any brake or shifter line however you do it, back in the day

I cut hayes mag1 line with an olfa cutter, even managed to get it back on without needing to bleed but thats cuz I got good at wanking about with the hayes line cuz the stuff was so fucking bad

SO my question is what do they make the lines out of now cuz I havent had to touch a line in 20 yrs ?

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

I've hand cut shimano and srams with a fresh box cutter/utility knife on a bench. Then fit the barbs by tapping in with a plastic mallet no problem.

[XXX-er]

I had the hayes line leak just sitting on top of a car during a 6 hr trip to ride lifts, I had so many problems/ hated Mag 1's so much the next brakes i got were BB7

[joetron]

Hi Experts. I'm updating drivetrain parts on my kid's hardtail, he needs a new cassette. I've read a 10 sp chain works fine on a 9 speed cassette + shifters.... can the experts confirm? I need to go with a 10sp chainring as its the only variant that works with his wonky BCD and desired tooth count.

I would not run a 10sp chain on 9sp cassette. Better to use a 9sp chain on a 9sp cassette/shifter setup. Chain retention will be fine on the 10sp chainring.


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[VTskibum]

Do any of the Amazon cheapo hose cutter/ barb pusher tools work ok? Need to cut some new prebled Shimano brakes for the kids bike and dont have the little Shimano block holders. Since I need to get a tool anyway , any recommendations?

I’ve done variations of the other non tool suggestions plenty, but pulled trigger on a well reviewed Amazon tool w cut and barb press which worked great. Well worth the $20 for it!!

This is one I bought
FLY_H Bicycle Brake Hydraulic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQVLJ5SR...p_mob_ap_share


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[volklpowdermaniac]

For rs pike, UPPER, it says to add 3 cc 3wt to the positive, and 1 cc to negative , positive is obvious - where the tokens go- how and where to I put the 1cc negative ?

[Andeh]

For rs pike, UPPER, it says to add 3 cc 3wt to the positive, and 1 cc to negative , positive is obvious - where the tokens go- how and where to I put the 1cc negative ?

Current manual Pike/Lyrik/Zeb manual says 3 ml in the top before you put in the air side cap. 30ml damper side / 15ml air spring side in the bottom, after you slide on lowers, but before you put on the foot stud.

[volklpowdermaniac]

For rs pike, UPPER, it says to add 3 cc 3wt to the positive, and 1 cc to negative , positive is obvious - where the tokens go- how and where to I put the 1cc negative ?

Figured it out, they just mean put one cc on top of the red disc that's part of the air spring, carry on

[zion zig zag]

Those of you who have air traveled with a bike: do you remove rotors? Evoc bag if it matters.

Also, I remember hearing that reverb droppers shouldn't be stored post compressed for long, is 3 days too long?

[BFD]

Just straightened a bent rotor yesterday. Thule round trip bag. No problem going, bent on return. I will probably remove them next time. Not an expert.

[PlayItLeo]

What the fuck is this bull shit? Just mounted these up yesterday (kryptotal dh ss), pumped them up to 40 psi, and let them sit overnight. Held air just fine. Just adjusted pressure to 21 and 24, took a spin down the driveway to make sure everything was good, went to load the bike on the car to go for a ride and noticed theses rips in the sidewall. Didn’t notice them yesterday, but maybe wasn’t looking closely. Developed overnight? Manufacturing error? Got stuck in the mold?





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[Andeh]

Looks like a warranty issue to me.

[toast2266]

Those of you who have air traveled with a bike: do you remove rotors? Evoc bag if it matters.

Also, I remember hearing that reverb droppers shouldn't be stored post compressed for long, is 3 days too long?

I've never bothered pulling rotors off for flights, and I've never had a problem. I usually install those plastic plate shapes widgets that give and extra layer of protection around the rotor.

Nor sure about the reverb, but I leave all of my posts compressed pretty much all the time. Never had a problem. [Shrug]

[rudy]

I have a reverb and leave it compressed almost all the time as well. Never had an issue.

[climberevan]

I've pulled rotors before, but on the last 3 flights with mtbs in bags I haven't bothered. It's been fine.

TSA found it necessary to totally rearrange the foam blocks holding the frame in place on the last flight, though. If you're going to disassemble someone's carefully packed shit, at least put it back the way it was, dumbasses. They could have caused bike damage, and who would take responsibility? No one, that's who.

[Spencer123]

A friend has an old (2014ish) race face affect dropper, looking at the lever it is set-up so the barrel of the cable is at the lever, there is not pinch bolt. The dropper is long past dead and she bought a new affect.

Looking at the diagrams online which are not super clear it looks like the new model uses a pinchbolt attachment at the lever, and a barrel nut at the actuator. I assume this means a new lever is in order as well? Or am I missing something?

Thanks!

[Roxtar]

A friend has an old (2014ish) race face affect dropper, looking at the lever it is set-up so the barrel of the cable is at the lever, there is not pinch bolt. The dropper is long past dead and she bought a new affect.

Looking at the diagrams online which are not super clear it looks like the new model uses a pinchbolt attachment at the lever, and a barrel nut at the actuator. I assume this means a new lever is in order as well? Or am I missing something?

Thanks!

Not missing anything. You are correct

[Spencer123]

thanks!

Not missing anything. You are correct

[mildbill.]

I'm at my wits' end - what is binding my drivetrain?
- XT 11 speed rear mech
- Shimano chain
- Sunrace 11-50 cassette
- Race face atlas crankset with a cane creek ano preload ring
- Hope BB
- Race face 28T steel chainring
- 2 wheelsets (each with a Sunrace 11-50 cassette) - sun SRC hub (fresh bearings 2 months ago) and hope pro 4.
- Rock n Roll gold lube applied regularly, bike cleaned not as regularly
- Crank bros pedals, rebuilt 4 months ago
- All parts are 2 - 4 months old / <100k ft climbed

On the bike: binding seems to be happening at the top of each pedal stroke - resistance releases on the way up, binds, releases on the way down. By far the worst when chain is in the biggest cog, unnoticeable by the 3rd or 4th cog down. Seems to be regardless of wheelset, and whether dirty or clean

In the stand:
- can't replicate the "top of stroke" binding
- When clean / lubed, can feel a "thunkthunkthunk" of each link as it goes through the drivetrain - if i rotate the pedals with 1-finger pressure it will bind with each link, evident in all gears
- When dirty - need more than 1-finger pressure on the pedals to get them to turn
- When chain is taken off chainring, bb/crank spin freely
- Each derailleur pulley spins freely

I was thinking it was chainline except for the "thunkthunkthunk" even in the middle cog (where theoretically chainline is best). Next thing I was thinking was to verify it was both wheelsets doing it - any other thoughts?

[Andeh]

Do all the links in the chain move freely?

[toast2266]

Does it bind at the top of the stroke for both the left and right crank?

Does the thunkthunking happen both while pedaling forward and back pedaling?

Is the chain meshing smoothly onto both the cassette and chainring? Is it smooth under load in the stand (hold the brake a bit and pedal)?

Does the bottom bracket spin smoothly without cranks in it?

Do the pulley wheels on the derailleur spin smoothly?

If the chain isn't run through the derailleur (and just does a floppy loop around the cassette / chainring), does anything change?

Do you have another bike that you can swap parts from to try a process of elimination?