Ask the experts

[SchralphMacchio]

Dear experts, is it the same tragic gene combination that causes cilantro to taste like soap, that also makes people think that IPAs taste terrible?

Posted while drinking Fort George and eating a heavily cilantroed bowl of pozole, thank you.

[Roxtar]

Dear experts, is it the same tragic gene combination that causes cilantro to taste like soap, that also makes people think that IPAs taste terrible?

Posted while drinking Fort George and eating a heavily cilantroed bowl of pozole, thank you.

Not soap. More like aluminum foil.
As for IPAs, when, exactly, did "bitter" become a compliment?
"I like my women the way I like my beer, cold and bitter."

[Boissal]

Was an (apparently poor) joke regarding the horribleness of IPAs.

Woosh, that one flew over my head a bit, I figured it must be a joke but it was written with such conviction I convinced myself otherwise.

I was probably drinking an IPA while dealing with the bleed btw. There are a couple decent ones out there, and the Belgians in the fridge are strong enough that I always end up with the levers pulling to the bar if I bleed brakes while drinking a few... Wonder why that is.

[SchralphMacchio]

Not soap. More like aluminum foil.
As for IPAs, when, exactly, did "bitter" become a compliment?
"I like my women the way I like my beer, cold and bitter."

Current score: 1/1!!!

[toast2266]

There was a time in the late 00's and early 10's when the IPA wars were getting a bit out of hand, and every brewery just seemed dead set on producing the bitterest, highest IBU sludge they could manage. Both my palate and my colon agreed that was a bit much. But most of the current crop of more refined and restrained IPA's are great. As is cilantro.

[El Chupacabra]

I think IPAs taste horrible. And cilantro is OK.

[Boissal]

There was a time in the late 00's and early 10's when the IPA wars were getting a bit out of hand, and every brewery just seemed dead set on producing the bitterest, highest IBU sludge they could manage. Both my palate and my colon agreed that was a bit much. But most of the current crop of more refined and restrained IPA's are great. As is cilantro.

Not to continue the thread hijack but I have to agree with this. The epitome of the brutally strong and hoppy style (to me) was Squatter's double called Hop Rising. That shit was so fucking vile. Tasted awful and you were stuck with the aftertaste for hours. Things have calmed down and there are glorious IPAs out and about, although a lot of the juicy or hazy ones are still foul garbage. The worst beer I've had in years came out of Rogue, a hazy IPA (Batsquatch). Couldn't finish the can, couldn't even give the other 5 away. Would certainly not risk rinsing syringes with it, I'd even hesitate to use it as a chain degreaser/queso remover, although I'm sure it would do a stellar job on that front.

[toast2266]

^^^ ha! I don't actually mind batsquatch. Seems like just another run of the mill hazy that's a bit too fruity, but otherwise unremarkable. Certainly not gonna pour it out though.

[Boissal]

^^^ ha! I don't actually mind batsquatch. Seems like just another run of the mill hazy that's a bit too fruity, but otherwise unremarkable. Certainly not gonna pour it out though.

I'd ask for your address to mail the remaining 5 cans but I disposed of them with extreme prejudice.

[jacob_dbu]

Wait, is this on a fork or a rear shock?

Stanchion = fork. Shaft = rear shock.

A scratch on a fork stanchion isn't going to cause you to lose air, but it sounds like this is a scratch on the rear shock shaft. If that's the case and it's losing 5psi / ride, and you've get a week to get it sorted, then your option is pretty much to find a different shock to put on the bike. You can send it back to the manufacturer to get a new shaft installed, but that's not happening in a week.

Sorry rear shock, scratch on the shaft. Didn’t know the terminology…replacement part is called damper shell I think?

But yeah…ok good to know. And yes it’s probably losing about 5psi per ride, I usually fill to 212psi and when I went to refill it was at 200psi.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Sorry rear shock, scratch on the shaft. Didn’t know the terminology…replacement part is called damper shell I think?

But yeah…ok good to know. And yes it’s probably losing about 5psi per ride, I usually fill to 212psi and when I went to refill it was at 200psi.

Have you tried pumping to 212, taking the pump off, compressing the shock a few times, then reattaching the pump?

What does it read when you re-attach it?

[joetron]

Sorry rear shock, scratch on the shaft. Didn’t know the terminology…replacement part is called damper shell I think?

But yeah…ok good to know. And yes it’s probably losing about 5psi per ride, I usually fill to 212psi and when I went to refill it was at 200psi.

This sounds about normal. When you attach a shock pump, the air in the shock flows into the pump, increasing the volume in the system, so the psi will drop. I generally estimate about 10psi.
The better thing to keep an eye on is your sag setting after riding. If the shock is gonna lose air because of the shaft damage, it’s more likely to happen when out riding, [emoji375] no on it, heating it up, etc.
That said, if I was going on a riding trip, I’d find a back up shock to bring. The odds that the seals are damaged is pretty high.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[XXX-er]

i would ( I did ) just keep filling it up till the sag is right and not worry about it

my super deluxe was leaking but I wasn't about to send it off till the snow was flying and biking was over

if its not on warranty I would probably just keep topping it up till a good deal comes along

[jono]

If you're trying to monitor a few psi to see if you have a leak this how I'd do it:

Thread on the pump until it just makes contact. Give the pump a stroke and if it leaks back down to 0 thread it on a little more. When it holds air pump it up to e.g. 212 psi. Then thread it on the rest of the way and watch how much the needle moves when the valve opens.

Also works when you want to get an idea of the starting pressure after winter or whatever.

[Roxtar]

Assuming you hook up the pump to gauge that 5PSI loss, the connecting process would be at fault, not a leak.
Every time you connect the pump you WILL lose at least that much air pressure.

[g_man80]

I’m looking for a Stumpjumper EVO 27.5 link. Part number S204300005. Everywhere I’ve checked is out of stock.

Anyone have any leads or even have a low mileage link they want to part with?

Edit: I’d also appreciate input from anyone that tried a Stumpy EVO in both configuration. I’ve read a number of reports that say it’s too linear in 27.5 mode and either lacks sensitivity or bottoms easily depending on what you compensate for.

Edit edit: Since all 2024 EVO builds are coming as mullets, I wonder if Specialized is keeping most of the link inventory to themselves.

[D(C)]

Serviced it myself. Bladder was intact when I had it apart and everything looked normal, aside from a complete lack of bath oil on the damper side.

Hmm, I bet your damper is drinking oil from the lowers. Did the bladder look extra swollen when you serviced it? I did mine recently and it was quite overfilled, and the oil that came out was dirty and thick. Clearly, bath oil was infested. I’m not sure how to fix that, other than periodic damper bleeds.

[jono]

Assuming you hook up the pump to gauge that 5PSI loss, the connecting process would be at fault, not a leak.
Every time you connect the pump you WILL lose at least that much air pressure.

If you're not pumping up the pressure in the pump first, yes. But if the pressure in the pump is the same as in the shock when the chuck opens the valve you won't lose any pressure. If you overshoot it you'll gain a little.

The trick is getting close enough when guessing the pressure, but if you just pumped it up before a ride that's pretty easy.

ETA: one tip for anyone attempting to measure shock pressure by attaching the pump as described: use very short strokes to finish getting the pump up to pressure so that the piston is at the end of travel when you go to tighten the chuck that last bit. That way you're consistently increasing the shock volume by the hose's volume and whatever reading you wind up with will be much closer to actual.

[Roxtar]

If you're not pumping up the pressure in the pump first, yes. But if the pressure in the pump is the same as in the shock when the chuck opens the valve you won't lose any pressure. If you overshoot it you'll gain a little.

The trick is getting close enough when guessing the pressure, but if you just pumped it up before a ride that's pretty easy.

ETA: one tip for anyone attempting to measure shock pressure by attaching the pump as described: use very short strokes to finish getting the pump up to pressure so that the piston is at the end of travel when you go to tighten the chuck that last bit. That way you're consistently increasing the shock volume by the hose's volume and whatever reading you wind up with will be much closer to actual.

I get what you're saying (and you're correct) but I'm assuming he's not going to that much trouble. If not, then yes, 5 PSI can be an expected loss of pressure from the hookup.
Perhaps an easier way is to check sag every few rides. Not an exact thing but would eliminate this variable and would give a general sense of whether the shock was bleeding down.

[carlh]

My fox x2 is making funny sounds when first compressed but this goes away after a few cycles. It’s going in for a rebuild this winter, and I would ideally like the more reliable 2024 version back. Any tips on how to get for to do that for me?

[Tailwind]

I have a fox 36 with a Grip 2 Damper that’s developed a play at the top of the travel.

I’m reading about full damper rebuilds and think it’s beyond what I’m feeling like taking on, I also don’t have all of the tools… Is it possible a half measure would take care of this? IE new oil and purging air from the damper.

[volklpowdermaniac]

Sidluxe ultimate on a 130 mm travel trail bike - crazy talk? Loved it on my EE, wondering if it’ll fit the bill for the next project (want to keep weight down so no double barrels)

[smmokan]

I’m looking for a Stumpjumper EVO 27.5 link. Part number S204300005. Everywhere I’ve checked is out of stock.

Anyone have any leads or even have a low mileage link they want to part with?

Edit: I’d also appreciate input from anyone that tried a Stumpy EVO in both configuration. I’ve read a number of reports that say it’s too linear in 27.5 mode and either lacks sensitivity or bottoms easily depending on what you compensate for.

Edit edit: Since all 2024 EVO builds are coming as mullets, I wonder if Specialized is keeping most of the link inventory to themselves.

Don't have the link for you, but just wanted to comment to say it's stupid that Specialized is making all Expert and Pro level EVOs stock mullet builds.

FWIW, I'd keep it as 29 and put a Cascade Link on it.

[skialpy]

Rolling a new Benno Boost e-bike for around town activities and added a dual kickstand with a chain guide that effectively makes the chain shorter. The deore derailleur still works in the easiest/lowest gear but I wonder if I’m over taxing the spring and should find an appropriate length chain to return the derailleur to its previous position or just ride the damn thing?

[Huskier]

Sid Ultimate is coming up on # riding hours that seems to warrant a rebuild. But I am by no means the most sensitive rider and to be honest I'm wondering if I'll be able to tell the difference post-service, particularly for XC and backcountry riding. I have some mild stiction coming off the top but other than that it feels...fine? Is there any harm in delaying service interval?