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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #10926
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Mt. Baker
    Posts
    1,785
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Magura’s are my brake of choice. Bleeding them is not hard in theory, same methodology as anything else. But for whatever reason it’s a flip of a coin whether you get a good bleed…

    - Make sure you have Magura rotors, they are thicker. It matters.
    - The best spot to keep your OEM Magura pads is in the trash, get some metallic pads.
    - Be careful with the bleed port screw. It’s made of playdough.
    - Once you think you’ve pushed the bubbles out in both forward and back rotated lever, do it again ten times because you probably haven’t.
    - Light a little royal blood on fire on the shop floor and let it burn to scare of the brake bleed gremlins…


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I’m running Xtr levers with MT7 calipers and the magura rotors. Most power brakes I’ve used. Way more power than the stock mt7 levers. Regular shimano fluid works just as well as magura blood too

  2. #10927
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    SLCizzy
    Posts
    3,679
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I have loosened the cover since so it is possible I did pinch it there. I'm going to go find some of the good polymer housing and see if that helps.
    Find a shop with Shimano SP41 Housing, or buy a 10m spool online somewhere.
    The Shimano Optislick cables or at least a slick stainless cable.
    Then be real gentle with the housing cover. I had same issue as SnowAddict with a dropper 2 weeks ago.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  3. #10928
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    6,190
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    I’m running Xtr levers with MT7 calipers and the magura rotors. Most power brakes I’ve used. Way more power than the stock mt7 levers. Regular shimano fluid works just as well as magura blood too
    Do you get the Shimano wandering bite point?

  4. #10929
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Mt. Baker
    Posts
    1,785
    Quote Originally Posted by XtrPickels View Post
    Do you get the Shimano wandering bite point?
    Not at all.

  5. #10930
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Can/USA
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Magura’s are my brake of choice. Bleeding them is not hard in theory, same methodology as anything else. But for whatever reason it’s a flip of a coin whether you get a good bleed…

    - Make sure you have Magura rotors, they are thicker. It matters.
    - The best spot to keep your OEM Magura pads is in the trash, get some metallic pads.
    - Be careful with the bleed port screw. It’s made of playdough.
    - Once you think you’ve pushed the bubbles out in both forward and back rotated lever, do it again ten times because you probably haven’t.
    - Light a little royal blood on fire on the shop floor and let it burn to scare of the brake bleed gremlins…


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Yes…. In theory… in reality I’ve had nothing but pain.

    I feel I need to sacrifice an entire bottle of royal blood for the amount of pain they have caused, haha.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  6. #10931
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    8,125
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    Attachment 462383
    Aka white lithium
    No, not white lithium.

    https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/complian...08-ENG-GHS.pdf

    It’s a silicone base oil, not petroleum distillate base. But it is thickened with lithium soap. Also contains PTFE.

    Silicone is usually used instead of petroleum if damaging plastic is a concern.

  7. #10932
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    36,513
    Do they not use the electric green stuff anymore? That shit was cool.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  8. #10933
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    8,125
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Do they not use the electric green stuff anymore? That shit was cool.
    They do, but it’s not cable grease.

    May actually be Motorex FETT 2000, which they also sell as Motorex bike grease. Not positive, but Motorex and Shimano are both fluorescent yellow calcium grease, and Shimano wouldn’t be making it themselves (listed as made in Germany).

  9. #10934
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    36,513
    I know they use it on derailluers and springs, but I recall it coming out of the end of a 41 cable when I ran one on the poly coated cables once. I forget what else it was used for, maybe shifter gears?
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  10. #10935
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    The better LA
    Posts
    2,829
    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    Find a shop with Shimano SP41 Housing, or buy a 10m spool online somewhere.
    The Shimano Optislick cables or at least a slick stainless cable.
    Then be real gentle with the housing cover. I had same issue as SnowAddict with a dropper 2 weeks ago.
    What he said (although I prefer the Shimano Polymer Coated cables ((XTR)) to the Optislick) and then that cable grease shown above.
    The grease really works well with the polymer cables as it gets in all the little "hairs" of the cable.
    Also, use good aluminum or bronze housing ferrules, not the Shimano plastic.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  11. #10936
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    6,409
    Just fucking start a cable queso thread already. Fuck.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  12. #10937
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    9,838
    It's time for me to replace rotors anyway, so I'm thinking of going from 180mm to 203mm for a little less fade and more power on long descents. Fork is Fox 36 and brakes are Guide RSC. What adapter do I need? Seems like there are a ton of options and I want to make sure I get it right.

  13. #10938
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,926
    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    It's time for me to replace rotors anyway, so I'm thinking of going from 180mm to 203mm for a little less fade and more power on long descents. Fork is Fox 36 and brakes are Guide RSC. What adapter do I need? Seems like there are a ton of options and I want to make sure I get it right.
    You'll just need a 23mm post mount adaptor.

  14. #10939
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    8,125
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Just fucking start a cable queso thread already. Fuck.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I’m sorry you had to endure the trauma of witnessing 5+ posts discussing grease. I hope you’re able to make a full recovery and get back riding in the near future.

  15. #10940
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    9,838
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    You'll just need a 23mm post mount adaptor.
    Easy enough. And now that I'm looking maybe 200mm is more common? Also seems like most of the SRAM adapters are 20mm instead of 23mm. Is 200mm what I want?

  16. #10941
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    8530' MST/200' EST
    Posts
    4,650
    20mm post adaptor for a 200 rotor, 23mm for 203. 203 are shimano rotors, SRAM rotors run 200/220. rotors are fairly cross compatible, but I prefer to stick on brand for less headaches. I might have one for you, let me check and send you a text if so.
    "If we can't bring the mountain to the party, let's bring the PARTY to the MOUNTAIN!"

  17. #10942
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    9,838
    Quote Originally Posted by Phall View Post
    20mm post adaptor for a 200 rotor, 23mm for 203. 203 are shimano rotors, SRAM rotors run 200/220. rotors are fairly cross compatible, but I prefer to stick on brand for less headaches. I might have one for you, let me check and send you a text if so.
    Thanks! And yes, I really am this dumb about bikes sometimes.

  18. #10943
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,128
    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Easy enough. And now that I'm looking maybe 200mm is more common? Also seems like most of the SRAM adapters are 20mm instead of 23mm. Is 200mm what I want?
    Most 20mm adapters come with some washers that make them work just fine for 23mm. You only need 1,5mm of washers.

    Works fine for me, but maybe I’ll die

  19. #10944
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    36,513
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Just fucking start a cable queso thread already. Fuck.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Yeah, sharing knowledge sucks, just ask DeSantis!
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  20. #10945
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    5,119
    Quote Originally Posted by sf View Post
    Most 20mm adapters come with some washers that make them work just fine for 23mm. You only need 1,5mm of washers.
    So you're saying the 20mm adapter is actually 10mm?

  21. #10946
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,128

    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    So you're saying the 20mm adapter is actually 10mm?
    So, I went and measured - just beacuse. And the Shimano adapter I had on the bench is 10mm on one side and 8-9mm on the other side.

    This I don’t understand

  22. #10947
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    2,245
    If you're going from a 180mm *dia* rotor to a 200mm *dia* rotor, the *radius* increase is 10mm. Actual post height changes will be a little bit different than the radius change due to posts not being exactly centered around the axle.

  23. #10948
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,128
    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    Actual post height changes will be a little bit different than the radius change due to posts not being exactly centered around the axle.
    Of course, one being further away etc. Probably should have seen that myself. Thanks

  24. #10949
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    33,989
    you could figure it out with math but you would need to be one them folks that call them maths

    extra points for doing it in your head
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #10950
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,314
    Any of you nerds know how to find the Cane Creek or better equivalents for these bearings? My headset sounded like it had rocks in it this weekend.

    Upper bearing: FSA MR122
    Lower bearing: FSA MR127

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