Ask the experts

[Bluebird]

Sram dub bottom bracket spacers. Trying to install a bb on a new transition sentinel AL. I think from what I’ve read the only spacer internal or external is a 4.5mm on the drive side external. Can anybody confirm/help?


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[Eluder]

Sram dub bottom bracket spacers. Trying to install a bb on a new transition sentinel AL. I think from what I’ve read the only spacer internal or external is a 4.5mm on the drive side external. Can anybody confirm/help?


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This is correct.

[Dee Hubbs]

Sram dub bottom bracket spacers. Trying to install a bb on a new transition sentinel AL. I think from what I’ve read the only spacer internal or external is a 4.5mm on the drive side external. Can anybody confirm/help?

-Thats a thread in BB, with a 73mm shell
-and if you have the standard width DUB crank
you are correct there is no internal spacers between BB and shell
you are correct the only spacer externally is the 4.5mm spacer on the drive side.

[Bluebird]

Thanks guys. Glad I read the charts right.


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[geomorph]

Given the recent floor pump discussion does the following pump exist:

1) accurate at low pressures 3-30 psi
2) capable of inflation to 110psi
3) Presta and Schrader compatible
4) release valve to let pressure out of over inflated tires
6) ideally least important factor, portable air compression (yep i am getting lazy)



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I just picked up a Bontrager TLR flash charge pump after struggling with a tubeless setup. So far I like it and the digital gauge seems to track well with the portable gauge I have.

[jackstraw]

Sorry I'll explain it a little better. You don't need to use Rock Shox branded mount kits with a Rock Shox shock. Just have your shop source another brand that uses the same bushing configuration. An example of this is MRP https://mrpbike.com/products/rear-sh...14941752393770

Thank you so much!

[summit]

Swapping wheelsets - in the past I've swapped wheelsets in and out with identical Eagle cassettes and had flawless shifting.

Anyone swapped wheelsets back and forth with a XT 10-51 on one and an E13 Helix 9-50 on the other and had no issues/adjusts needed?

Hub bodies compatible between '22 240 EXP and '21 350 EXP such that one could swap an XD and Micro spline between the two if later deciding to change drivetrains? Would they also have to be the same number of teeth on the star ratchets between them just to switch out drivers?

[Andeh]

Andeh, Toast, Boissal

Thank you for the responses.

I'm in a first world problem situation where I have an al enduro set I was going to use for shuttle/dh that has a 350 36t and I was going to buy a lighterweight second wheelset. The wheelset I wanted (Nobl TR37), I can't do a DT 54t on so I was going to do a i9 1/1 (90t), but they don't have that so they'll build with a Hydra, or I could go with a Roost i31AM with a 240 54t. So its a little more for the TR37 with Hydra 32h, little better warranty, little stronger, 90g heavier, little more $ vs the i31AM with 240 54t 28h.

I have analysis paralysis.

I'd also suggest getting a DT hub if you've already got one. It's nice to be able to swap parts around if you break/explode something. Also, you'll be able to just lift off the freehub from one rear wheel to the other when you change rear wheels.

[summit]

I'd also suggest getting a DT hub if you've already got one. It's nice to be able to swap parts around if you break/explode something. Also, you'll be able to just lift off the freehub from one rear wheel to the other when you change rear wheels.

So that would work? Just lift the freehub off the 36T 350 and stick it on at 54T 240? and then I don't even need to get a second cassette? (or do I need to upgrade the 36 to 54 and then it is compatible?)

[Dantheman]

Thank you so much!

DVO hardware also works with RS.

[Dee Hubbs]

So that would work? Just lift the freehub off the 36T 350 and stick it on at 54T 240? and then I don't even need to get a second cassette? (or do I need to upgrade the 36 to 54 and then it is compatible?)

Lift the cassette off, (remove the 36t) and keep the 54 star ratchet on the cassette and swap between both hubs.
No need for another 54 ratchet.

[Andeh]

So that would work? Just lift the freehub off the 36T 350 and stick it on at 54T 240? and then I don't even need to get a second cassette? (or do I need to upgrade the 36 to 54 and then it is compatible?)

I've done just that with the old style DT 240 & 350 hubs (move ratchet over too). Cannot speak to the new EXP/EXP, and cross compatibility between old style and EXP.

[grabtindy]

Another vote for Sweat buster after Beaterdit's post. Works great if you sweat a ton. Actually takes quite a while to become totally saturated, and continues to soak up more sweat after you wring it out. Great product.

Just gave the Sweatbuster a shot, I was pretty dubious since it looks like about $.40 worth of terry cloth, but I'll be damned if I was able to keep on riding at the top of my usual climb without having to stop to clean the sweat off my glasses for the first time.

[climberevan]

I've done just that with the old style DT 240 & 350 hubs (move ratchet over too). Cannot speak to the new EXP/EXP, and cross compatibility between old style and EXP.

EXP has the inner ratchet screwed into the hub shell, so you could swap EXP-EXP with the SAME # of teeth just fine. I have some of each, so if someone is curious i can try to swap an EXP FH into an older style or vice versa but I'm dubious that it will work.

[singlesline]

Andeh, Toast, Boissal

Thank you for the responses.

I'm in a first world problem situation where I have an al enduro set I was going to use for shuttle/dh that has a 350 36t and I was going to buy a lighterweight second wheelset. The wheelset I wanted (Nobl TR37), I can't do a DT 54t on so I was going to do a i9 1/1 (90t), but they don't have that so they'll build with a Hydra, or I could go with a Roost i31AM with a 240 54t. So its a little more for the TR37 with Hydra 32h, little better warranty, little stronger, 90g heavier, little more $ vs the i31AM with 240 54t 28h.

I have analysis paralysis.

I suspect I have the exact same problem as you. I am tempted by the NOBL wheels, but I want a DT hub (240 or 350, not picky) and that's not available to me.

Not crazy about any of the other options, especially if the 1/1 is available right now as those probably would have been my next choice.

[toastybroski]

I think it’s time for new tires. It’s mostly dry where I ride in Montana. I currently have maxxis dominion dhr ii exo in 29x2.3 which I like. My frame can go up to 2.6. Should I go that wide? What tires do you all recommend for general trail riding.

[summit]

I suspect I have the exact same problem as you. I am tempted by the NOBL wheels, but I want a DT hub (240 or 350, not picky) and that's not available to me.

Not crazy about any of the other options, especially if the 1/1 is available right now as those probably would have been my next choice.

With no 1/1, the $ doesn't work out so well. The 1/1 has 90T so that was nice too.

I'm going to do Roost. They make awesome high quality but affordable wheels, and are CO company. I ran i33EN for years in park and trail, awesome strong wheelset. They have great service (Tim is super responsive). Roost builds bladed spokes on everything, no extra fees. Nobl is great too, more customizable, some premium sine wave rims, but $$$ and are serviced (well) from Canada.

I think having a second DT hub, lighter, and cheaper wins the argument for Roost. Gonna go order now.

[summit]

EXP has the inner ratchet screwed into the hub shell, so you could swap EXP-EXP with the SAME # of teeth just fine. I have some of each, so if someone is curious i can try to swap an EXP FH into an older style or vice versa but I'm dubious that it will work.

Lift the cassette off, (remove the 36t) and keep the 54 star ratchet on the cassette and swap between both hubs.
No need for another 54 ratchet.

These conflict, it sounds like EXP will need to upgrade my 36T to 54T to match the other 54T?

[climberevan]

These conflict, it sounds like EXP will need to upgrade my 36T to 54T to match the other 54T?

If it's EXP-EXP you can swap the FH over just fine, but you'll need to also bring over the active ratchet ring to match whatever# of teeth are on the one fixed into that hub shell. (Easy to do, but for me a concern would be that unless everything is really clean, this operation has a lot of potential for getting dirt into the teeth, so to speak.)

[summit]

If it's EXP-EXP you can swap the FH over just fine, but you'll need to also bring over the active ratchet ring to match whatever# of teeth are on the one fixed into that hub shell. (Easy to do, but for me a concern would be that unless everything is really clean, this operation has a lot of potential for getting dirt into the teeth, so to speak.)

EXP EXP yes. So move FH over, but the active ratchet ring will need to live with their respective hubs. And be clean about it (and probably greasy). Saves $ and guarantees shifting.

Or, I get an XD and buy an E13 9-50 for the DH set and leave the MS/XT on the trail wheel... but... anyone swapped wheelsets back and forth with a XT 10-51 on one and an E13 Helix 9-50 on the other and had no issues/adjusts needed? Otherwise $100 to SLX on the DH. Or $400 for XTR on trail wheel.

[singlesline]

Can't speak to the E13, but I switched from a wheel with a HG-freehub sram 11-50 to a microspline with a SLX 10-51 and everything seemed to shift fine.

Maybe I had to give a small b-screw tweak? But chain length was the same and if I was going to be swapping wheelsets, there probably would have been a happy medium b-screw setting that can handle both the 50 and 51 cogs.

[Bluebird]

Sram Code rsc brake mounting. Picked up a 20mm spacer kit to mount to 200 mm rotor on a 180 post mount Lyrik. The kit came with standard and cps mount bolts and washers. Which one is it? I can’t even really tell the difference.

Also, what are the tiny o rings for?


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[Dee Hubbs]

The non-CPS bolts are the short ones (designed to save weight), the CPS bolts are longer to hold all the stupid washers…
And the o-rings hold all those stupid washers on the bolt when you remove the caliper.
Oh SRAM….

[VTskibum]

Are all 20mm thru axle's as absolutely stupid as the current Manitou ones? Never owned anything w 20mm and can definitely say it seems beyond shitty compared to 15mm. At least on my relatively cheap DJ fork, I see absolutely no benefit. More of a rant than a question I suppose.

[Phall]

That’s a can of worms about the industry adopting 15 when 20 was semi-commonplace but “heavier” albeit stiffer. 20mm could have been great. ::nostalgic sigh::


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