Ask the experts

[grskier]

Also a quick wipe down with rubbing alcohol applied to a microfiber towel has always worked well for me.

This.

Wash your bike, rub it down, get all the crap off, then do a rubbing alcohol and lintless towel.

[detrusor]

I don’t really understand the appeal of frame saver.


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[XXX-er]

then its probably wasted on you

[skaredshtles]

I don’t really understand the appeal of frame saver.

Sounds like a giant PITA to me.

[Dee Hubbs]

I don’t really understand the appeal of frame saver.

Are you buying a bike for resale value, and spend more time worrying about it condition.
OR are you bike a bike to ride it as it was designed to be ridden.

[jm2e]

About 10 rides in, all of our bikes have lost considerable value.
My wife is particularly adept at scratching fork stanchions.


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[Beaver]

About 10 rides in, all of our bikes have lost considerable value.
My wife is particularly adept at scratching fork stanchions.


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You better ride wrap those for her.

[XXX-er]

I put the cheap 4" wide 3M from the auto supply on the 5.5 for 25$, it doesnt cover the whole bike but it covers the places that are the most likely TO get scuffed like the top of top/ tube bottom of down tube/ seat and chain stays

I didnt plan to turn over a bike in < 3 yrs but due to covid & shit I upgraded to a highly sacrilegious E-bike and so i got a really good price for used Yeti from a decerning MD ( who else right?)

so iME its worth putting a 25$ roll of 3M on a new bike so I have also done it on the new FAT bike and on the Bullit

I either got off unexpectedly or just hit the top tube with a muddy shoe but last week I got a big scuff on the top tube, I just rubbed that layer of 3M with some alcohol on a rag so now you can't tell

A 3m clad bike also washes up better

[XXX-er]

Are you buying a bike for resale value, and spend more time worrying about it condition.
OR are you bike a bike to ride it as it was designed to be ridden.

yes

[Jax]

I did the full Ride Wrap on my new RLT a few weeks back and it's already paid for itself IMO. I've already put a few hundred miles of dirt mud and gravel on it, paired with bags of all types strapped to it. The paint is far better off with it on. Washes up easily and actually self-heals like they advertise. Ride it hard and have it look nice, best of both worlds. Those pack/feedbag straps can do a number on glossy paint in no time.

I did the wrap myself having worked as a professional auto detailer in my spare time the last few years where I did my share of ppf applications. The application definitely takes more time than WR says if you are anal retentive. There were 18 pieces to install, much much smaller than anything I've applied on vehicles. Good lighting was a must and proper squeegee technique helped. I think most ppl won't have the same results I did in applying the product tbh, it's not as easy as they make it out to be, at least for the full wrap. It takes patience and attention to detail.

I'm not a bike flipper so for me this was to keep the bike looking nicer over the duration of my time with it, however long that may be, and to protect it from heavy use of pack straps, velcro, dings, paint chips, gravel, etc. I will say that Niner's paint on their carbon bikes isn't the most resilient so that was a motivating factor for me. Ultimately I'd like to have a titanium bike but I can't justify that price right now so taking care of my shit is what I do. The wrap definitely adds a luster to the paint which I admire.

[bagtagley]

Are you buying a bike for resale value, and spend more time worrying about it condition.
OR are you bike a bike to ride it as it was designed to be ridden.

Bit of both? The wet season kills frames here. Top tube damage is practically unavoidable but is also the thing people get the most worked up about. I stopped using frame tape for a while because I didn’t care, but got sick of the lengthy explanations about why my well equipped, well maintained bike wasn’t worth much because I didn’t covet the paint. YMMV (I wouldn’t bother if I lived somewhere that was dry), but for me it’s cheap and easy insurance.

Never used ride wrap, though. I have a sheet of Xpel I’ve been chipping away at.

[skinipenem]

I don’t really understand the appeal of frame saver.


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Never used it before until now.
Decided to do it for the following reasons:

1) Figured that it would fun to try out
2) ebike tech is moving forward quickly and will likely upgrade much sooner then bikes in the past
3) Mac ride will rub the sides of the top tube and seat tube
4) kind of tired of the paint rubbing off in high wear areas

Installed invisiwrap. So far so good. Takes a long time to do it. Still got a few tiny bubbles and a few tiny bumps. Cut was close to perfect for my bike, but required some mods on my skini miss's sled.

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[beaterdit]

Bit of both? The wet season kills frames here. Top tube damage is practically unavoidable but is also the thing people get the most worked up about. I stopped using frame tape for a while because I didn’t care, but got sick of the lengthy explanations about why my well equipped, well maintained bike wasn’t worth much because I didn’t covet the paint. YMMV (I wouldn’t bother if I lived somewhere that was dry), but for me it’s cheap and easy insurance.

Never used ride wrap, though. I have a sheet of Xpel I’ve been chipping away at.

That's how I roll. Expel Ultimate or their matte tape for top tube, front of handlebars, stays on metal bikes. My Carbon mountain bikes get Shelter tape for down tube and stays. Incredible stuff, actual structural impact protection.

[XXX-er]

plain old 3M from the autoparts store, 3.33 meters of 4" wide stuff is 25$ which is enough to do a bike, as you can see it covers top/ sides of top tube, bottom & sides of down tube which is where you will tag the frame, you can't really see the seams unless you look really clsoe

if you get bubbles pop them with a pin

[skinipenem]

That's how I roll. Expel Ultimate or their matte tape for top tube, front of handlebars, stays on metal bikes. My Carbon mountain bikes get Shelter tape for down tube and stays. Incredible stuff, actual structural impact protection.

Is xpel 8-10 mm thick? Holy cow that's thick. How do you deal with the edges? A gap = a canyon gap.

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[beaterdit]

Is xpel 8-10 mm thick? Holy cow that's thick. How do you deal with the edges? A gap = a canyon gap.

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The thickness is measured in mili-inches, that's 1/1000 of an inch. 8-10 mil is significantly less than 1 mm, I think it's 0.3-0.7mm. The Shelter Tape by contrast is 47 mil or about 3mm thick and also self healing. That's for sure as thick as I'd ever want on a bike and I only put that where impact can break a carbon frame, not just scratch and scuff areas. If you've ever seen or worked with disposable plastic sheeting for construction, 3 mil is common, it's about as thick as a piece of paper. I was mystified by that for years. 8-10mm would be a deal breaker for a lot of reasons.

[Jax]

mils, not mm

Epel's ultimate is 8mils so .0008 in

[Jax]

simul-post gmta!

[beaterdit]

I admire your brevity though, hahaha!

[skinipenem]

Thanks fellas! I knew something was amuck in my noggin. Learned something new. Trg does not disappoint.

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[jono]

mils, not mm

Epel's ultimate is 8mils so .008 in

That was gonna bug me

[Jax]

my typo bugs me

[Tailwind]

Anyone have insights on the 'best' way to setup a XC race bike that has two remote lockouts. I have a Pivot Mach 4 SL and it's always be 'okay' with the fox lockout setup and a 'thumb style' dropper remote up top.

I've looked at the Trek Droplock setup and that seems interesting but... it's $120 so I'd want it to be quite a bit better and I've never interacted with one

[climberevan]

All of the lockoutZ!

[summit]

New bike has an ispec cockpit on XT brakes. They are too on-off and have a slight bite point wander.

I wanted to bring over my Magura MT Trail Carbons with their great balance and modulation, but being bar mount I'd also have to redo the whole cockpit, shifter and dropper, because no ispec.

I was told to Shigura instead: XT levers with Magura calipers, and that this is the best of all things... and also lets me keep the ispec.

Anyone tried this? I assume I'll need to re-barb the line on one end?