Ask the experts

[VTskibum]

Santa Cruz, especially older ones, historically very short. No way you’re a medium.


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[t.odd]

I'm 5'9", 0 ape index on a large gen3 Bronson which lists the reach as 459mm in the high setting. Running shortest possible stem (Chromag ranger 31mm) and a 35mm rise bar, and seat slammed all the way forward on the rails. I was convinced to get a large by a friend after being a 'medium' guy forever, pretty sure I wouldn't make that choice again at this point. Obviously depends on bike and things like seat angle too.

[skaredshtles]

I'm 5'9", 0 ape index on a large gen3 Bronson which lists the reach as 459mm in the high setting. Running shortest possible stem (Chromag ranger 31mm) and a 35mm rise bar, and seat slammed all the way forward on the rails. I was convinced to get a large by a friend after being a 'medium' guy forever, pretty sure I wouldn't make that choice again at this point. Obviously depends on bike and things like seat angle too.

Did you kick your friend in the crotch? If not... consider it.

[Idyllwild]

Thank you toast

[bagtagley]

My BikeYoke developed a leak after about four months of use. They’re response has been, “that’s weird, try this”. I’ve rebuilt it twice, replaced the valve core, verified that the cable tension is perfect, etc, and it still loses air. Now they want me to send it to BTI to be checked cause they’ve “never had this problem”.

Do I be a jerk American and insist on a new post, or do I send it in and be bikeless for however long?

[smmokan]

I’d insist on a dropper to hold you over while they look into it.

[simple]

Always have a spare....

Or be willing to pay for one at any moment.

Otherwise it's just a casual hobby.

[summit]

The DT Swiss 180 (~300g) and 240 hubs (~380g)... are they appropriate for enduro or just AM or just trail? They are quite expensive (the 180 is extraordinarily expensive).

Are there any other hubs out there that are weight competitive with even the 240? It seems all the competition hubs weigh about 450-500g for a front+rear 6bolt boost hub pair.

[climberevan]

My understanding is that the 180 & 240 are just as durable as anything else. They certainly are nice (i have wheels with each on different bikes). Plenty of hubs are in the same weight class as 240s, like Bitex, but nothing has the same rep for durability.

For a big 'ol Enduro bike, though, I don't see why the weight difference would be worth the cost, especially for the 180s. 350s would be fine. You can save that weight elsewhere for way less $.

[Dee Hubbs]

180 is a great hub, but it only comes in Straight Pull, only 28 Hole, only comes in Center Lock. But yes it’s durable enough for the abuse.

240 hub is the best price/weight/quality ratio of any MTB hubs in my opinion. Also very durable for Enduro riding. Its redesign lowers the weight of the star ratchet system.

350 is basically now the older 240 design.

370 is now being spec’ with the star ratchet, and is basically the old 350 model that was a little heavier, and not as refined in finishing, more stamped finish, less fine part milling to keep the costs down.

[grskier]

My understanding is that the 180 & 240 are just as durable as anything else. They certainly are nice (i have wheels with each on different bikes). Plenty of hubs are in the same weight class as 240s, like Bitex, but nothing has the same rep for durability.

For a big 'ol Enduro bike, though, I don't see why the weight difference would be worth the cost, especially for the 180s. 350s would be fine. You can save that weight elsewhere for way less $.

I just go with 350s and the upgraded star ratchet for the rear and call it good on a big bike.

[summit]

I used to have a trail bike and a DH bike. But the trail bike kept getting bigger until I ended up selling the DH a few years ago. I had been running one set of wheels on the Enduro.

So I'm a one bike guy. Can't really afford to build out a pimped out light small bike as well. Maybe it was a mistake to go 170/170 29er (spire) as my one bike. With an XT build it is hard to economically cut weight through upgrades. But maybe I can pimp out a wheelset.

I'm trying to to look at a trail through enduro lightweight carbon wheelset while running the aluminum wheels with heavy tires for the park. Saving weight on the hub, while not really getting the same benefit of cutting it off the rim and tire as far as rotational inertia, is about the only way to cut unsprung weight without compromising performance. Or at least, that was my reasoning to look at the 240 or 180 instead of a 350, P321, or i9 1/1.

[toast2266]

If I were building an enduro-ish wheelset, it'd be on 240's. 36t ratchet. Ideally a 32 spoke rear, 28 spoke front.

[Eluder]

My BikeYoke developed a leak after about four months of use. They’re response has been, “that’s weird, try this”. I’ve rebuilt it twice, replaced the valve core, verified that the cable tension is perfect, etc, and it still loses air. Now they want me to send it to BTI to be checked cause they’ve “never had this problem”.

Do I be a jerk American and insist on a new post, or do I send it in and be bikeless for however long?

Always have a spare....

Or be willing to pay for one at any moment.

Otherwise it's just a casual hobby.

This, droppers break, all they owe you is a repair don't be a dick.

Edit: What size are you, I have a couple spares I could borrow if needed.

[Eluder]

Are there any other hubs out there that are weight competitive with even the 240? It seems all the competition hubs weigh about 450-500g for a front+rear 6bolt boost hub pair.

I don't think there are any rear hubs that are lighter than the DT's

https://noblwheels.com/blog/actual-hub-weights/

[Dantheman]

Are there any other hubs out there that are weight competitive with even the 240? It seems all the competition hubs weigh about 450-500g for a front+rear 6bolt boost hub pair.

Ringle Bubba and Bubba X:

https://hayesbicycle.com/products/bu...34635432394797
https://hayesbicycle.com/products/bu...34635432656941

#homerism

eta: Just looked through that NOBL link. Not quite truly competitive with 240s I guess. But, the Ringles are still sweet hubs that aren't on most people's radar.

[Dantheman]

This, droppers break, all they owe you is a repair don't be a dick.

If it was a budget dropper I'd agree with you but for what those Bikeyokes costs I'd expect better service, especially after 4 months of use.

[VTskibum]

This, droppers break

I picked up a spare I can swap between my HT and FS bike for this exact reason. Ended up on my spare for ~3 months. Trans X and the like get ripped off brand new bikes and are heavier, but work fine and make great backups in my experience w/o dropping too much, usually around $100 for good condition.

[AlpiNord]

A couple years ago, I converted my Superfly to a 1x11 & added a gravel wheelset. The mountain bike wheelset is dialed with the derailleur and shifting. I don't want this to change. The gravel wheelset was 'ok' but now is off a skosh and will shift past the big cog and get caught. Aside from messing with and adjusting the limit screw every time I swap wheelsets, is there an idiot proof way to set this up to simply have both wheelsets dialed after swapping?

[bagtagley]

If it was a budget dropper I'd agree with you but for what those Bikeyokes costs I'd expect better service, especially after 4 months of use.

This is my thinking, though I’ve gotten way better service from budget dropper companies despite being outside the warranty period and without having to jump through a bunch of hoops to prove what I already know.

I appreciate the offer for a post. I’ve got spares, I was just being dramatic. I’m gonna send it in and just consider this a lesson learned.

[Eluder]

This is my thinking, though I’ve gotten way better service from budget dropper companies despite being outside the warranty period and without having to jump through a bunch of hoops to prove what I already know.

I appreciate the offer for a post. I’ve got spares, I was just being dramatic. I’m gonna send it in and just consider this a lesson learned.

A fair point that its a pricey post that you shelled out the cash for then got mediocre support on but replacement isn't really that normal for anybody unless its a disposable post. I know this doesn't help the burn but figured I would add a reference point. I have had a 1 week old Transfer posts that wouldn't fully return, Fox required me to send it in for service... that took 6 weeks door to door. I always have a 1-2 One ups "laying around."

BTI should have quick turnaround at least.

[Eluder]

A couple years ago, I converted my Superfly to a 1x11 & added a gravel wheelset. The mountain bike wheelset is dialed with the derailleur and shifting. I don't want this to change. The gravel wheelset was 'ok' but now is off a skosh and will shift past the big cog and get caught. Aside from messing with and adjusting the limit screw every time I swap wheelsets, is there an idiot proof way to set this up to simply have both wheelsets dialed after swapping?

Unless the hubs are identical there will always be some tinkering.

[simple]

If I were building an enduro-ish wheelset, it'd be on 240's. 36t ratchet. Ideally a 32 spoke rear, 28 spoke front.

We always seem to think alike. I built my last bike around the Roval Traverse SL Wheelset which is close (better) than this spec. It truly is a fantastic carbon wheelset.

[AlpiNord]

Unless the hubs are identical there will always be some tinkering.

Thanks. Thought so. I was hoping to avoid the new hub approach.

[Eluder]

Thanks. Thought so. I was hoping to avoid the new hub approach.

There is always the new bike approach instead.