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[Iowagriz]

SRAM compatability question for the experts. I bought a used Salsa Cutthroat - 2017, it has:
Rival 22 shifting and medium cage rear der - 24/36 up front - max of 11/32 in the rear - currently has a 11/32 Shimano 105 cassette on it (11-speed)
I want to switch to my carbon MTB wheels - Roval, approx 2016 vintage

Problem: apparently the splined freehub on this vintage Roval was MTB specific only, when the shop put a road freehub on it, it ended up rubbing the hub body.

Potential solutions: In the perfect world, I'd find a XD driver 11/32 cassette, this way I can move these wheels back to the MTB with a quick cassette change. 2nd solution would be a MTB specific 11/32 (splined), then I'd use the Roval MTB splined freehub. Last solution would be a new rear der that would work with the current shifters, combine that with a larger XD cassette and deal with any chain wrap issues.

Q1: Any reason why the PG-1130 cassette wouldn't work? The shop I talked to didn't think so, but I don't spot the problem. I also can't tell if this is XD in a 11/32 or splined (but at this point I'll take whatever). https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/cs-pg-1130-a1

Q2: If I go for a new rear der, which one would work? From what I read, the Rival 22 rear der that I currently have is Exact Actuation. When I search for MTB with Exact Actuation, I only get 10sp (need 11sp).

Any other suggestions? Going with a new system is not likely feasible due to supply issues. I suppose a 4th option would be a new wheelset (the stock ones are as heavy as shit)

[Tailwind]

I've used Shimano HG800 series 11-34 cassettes for this in the past. It uses the 10 speed freehub design and I bet your RD would handle it without issue. It would also shift better than the sram 1130 by a wide margin.

Sadly no MTB RD's that work with a rival shifter as it sits.

The cool way of doing this would be to switch to a 1x12 setup using a ratio 12 speed conversion for your existing shifter.
https://ratiotechnology.com/product/...d-upgrade-kit/

You would need to buy an XD freehub body, Eagle RD, Direct Mount Chainring, and XD 12 speed cassette... but this would be sweet upgrade for that bike.

Or the cheap route would be to buy a 11-50 cassette and use your existing free hub but that's really heavy.

SRAM compatability question for the experts. I bought a used Salsa Cutthroat - 2017, it has:
Rival 22 shifting and medium cage rear der - 24/36 up front - max of 11/32 in the rear - currently has a 11/32 Shimano 105 cassette on it (11-speed)
I want to switch to my carbon MTB wheels - Roval, approx 2016 vintage

Problem: apparently the splined freehub on this vintage Roval was MTB specific only, when the shop put a road freehub on it, it ended up rubbing the hub body.

Potential solutions: In the perfect world, I'd find a XD driver 11/32 cassette, this way I can move these wheels back to the MTB with a quick cassette change. 2nd solution would be a MTB specific 11/32 (splined), then I'd use the Roval MTB splined freehub. Last solution would be a new rear der that would work with the current shifters, combine that with a larger XD cassette and deal with any chain wrap issues.

Q1: Any reason why the PG-1130 cassette wouldn't work? The shop I talked to didn't think so, but I don't spot the problem. I also can't tell if this is XD in a 11/32 or splined (but at this point I'll take whatever). https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/cs-pg-1130-a1

Q2: If I go for a new rear der, which one would work? From what I read, the Rival 22 rear der that I currently have is Exact Actuation. When I search for MTB with Exact Actuation, I only get 10sp (need 11sp).

Any other suggestions? Going with a new system is not likely feasible due to supply issues. I suppose a 4th option would be a new wheelset (the stock ones are as heavy as shit)

[jamal]

The 11s sram cassettes that fit on an HG driver, like that 1130, are 11s "road" spacing. being a "mtb" specific freehub to me implies the narrower 10s spacing. So the 11s cassettes that work on that are shimano ones 11-34 or bigger.

Also I think a 2x10 sram mtb derailleur has the right pull ratio?

[Dee Hubbs]

I'll try to keep it simple.
Shimano HG freehub was the exact same for 8, 9, 10 speed.
When Shimano MTB went to 11 speed, it used the same 8, 9, 10 freehub, but the larger than 34 tooth cassette overhung the freehub and the angle of the spokes allowed room for the overhanging cassette.
When Shimano went to 11 speed road, they had to make a wider freehub to fit a 11-28 or 11, 30, or even an 11-32 Road cassette.
This is why we have "11 speed road" and "11 speed MTB free hubs".
Shimano now make a 11 speed 11-34 that works on older 10 speed road freehub.

Your best solution it to install a Shimano 11-34 cassette that will work on both a Shimano 11s Road and/or 11s MTB .

XD freehub will all be 10-44 not 11. If the cassette starts with an 11-xx its a HG body.

[Iowagriz]

Thanks all, I'll head down the path of that Shimano hg800 to see if it will fit my hub. Second option of the sram mtb derailleur sounds like another good possibility.

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[jamal]

Yeah cassette spacing for 11s is a little funny. Sram 11-32 and 11-36 are a no on a 10s/mtb freehub. 11-42 does fit. Shimano 11-32 is no, 11-34 yes.

I wonder if you have a "142+" wheel? A friend had a set for sale and when I tried them in my frame the lock ring rubbed on the dropout (and the chain also in 11t). They pretty much only worked in specialized frames of that era despite still using a 12x142 axle.

[Iowagriz]

Definitely not the 142+, I've been using these in my old school El Mariachi hardtail (with different end caps for old school skewer).


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[dcpnz]

Edit: after posting this actually managed to use the search function to find a few relevant older posts - general opinion seems to be meh. Pls update if that’s not the case.


Anyone used a Shockwiz?

Pros/cons? Worth it or not?

I’m not a super suspension setup guru by any stretch but I’m ok with learning, observing, and tweaking settings on my own bike and seeing if I like it better. Considering it for family members who are more set it and forget types and have a harder time distinguishing changes.

[Andeh]

My opinion is Shockwiz is pretty worthless, but if you're going to use it:
1) expect it to be very, very stupid. Remember, it doesn't know where you are (climbing vs. descending).
2) reset it before every descent
3) use it on back to back laps of a single, representative trail that includes a bit of everything (berms, jumps, brake bumps, and steeps/g-outs)
4) do some reading on what the various tuning profiles are meant to represent

Just putting it on and leaving it on for a full day is worthless. It categorizes data points based on it's interpretation of what scenario it is, in a first-in-first-out database. That means that if it thinks you've hit a moderate compression like a berm and can store, say, 50 data points, if you keep riding beyond that 50th data point, it will just overwrite the oldest data point. So riding with it collecting for a long time doesn't give you any better results.

[mcski]

A buddy of mine borrowed the shop’s when he got his new ride. I thought it worked pretty well but he used it on our local lap so it’s feed back made sense. Don’t think I’d pay money to use one tho

[Touring_Sedan]

Edit: after posting this actually managed to use the search function to find a few relevant older posts - general opinion seems to be meh. Pls update if that’s not the case.


Anyone used a Shockwiz?

Pros/cons? Worth it or not?

I’m not a super suspension setup guru by any stretch but I’m ok with learning, observing, and tweaking settings on my own bike and seeing if I like it better. Considering it for family members who are more set it and forget types and have a harder time distinguishing changes.

I bought one a few years ago to setup a new bike. Rode the same trail every day for about 2 weeks. The results from the Shockwiz were inconsistent and useless. I ended up returning it. I still have a store credit.

[joetron]

123455

[hick]

Suspension question… bought a new to me demo bike last fall with super low hours in it. Came with DVO topaz rear shock and DVO onyx sc fork. Rear shock is already fucked and awaiting a new damper. Fork just got new seals and oil and was the loudest stickiest fork I’ve ridden in quite some time. Is this stuff just shit and should I move on or can it be made to work as advertised? Just looking for some feedback before I go replacing this stuff. I should add, the shop I bought the bike at sucks, so I don’t want to jump to conclusions that it’s all DVO’s fault. Any first hand experience within the collective?


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[evdog]

I've had both good and bad luck with DVO.

First Topaz shock I had was awesome. Then my Mojo3 came with a DVO Topaz fork. It made a lot of suction noises but worked great, until it imploded after a couple years hard use. Something something about the bushings and damper failing. It was sent up to DVO to work on, and they offered me a brand new one for $500. It's been good since, but still a bit noisy. When I ordered a Revel rail last year I opted for DVO Topaz and Onyx over RockShox...mainly due to lack of available RS service kits and DVO being just up the highway from me. Both fork and shock have been good so far, but the fork makes that same suction noise as previous ones. Not sure if its normal. I really like them when they work well, that Topaz fork could soak up a lot of big hits for its minimal travel.

If you're having problems with them, and the local shop sucks I'd call DVO directly. They have great customer service and will help you get them up and running especially if you can ship the fork/shock back to DVO.

[jm2e]

I have one.
Andeh isn’t wrong, but for us it’s had utility.
For starters, it’s pretty good at helping you set spring rate and ramp. The instructions are clear that there’s zero pint in fiddling knobs until you dial in spring rate and ramp. That utility (and lesson) alone can be worth it. Is it perfect? No. Is it an objective measure? Yes. Otherwise you’re going off some pretty subjective shit like watching your O-ring, or just adding more pressure every time you think you bottomed.


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[jm2e]

For people who fiddle but aren’t expert semi-pro guru engineers, working through the damping recommendations can be very helpful. Which is also why it gets panned by so many Maggots!
Again, it’s as much schooling you as anything. Way better way to wrap you head around what changes with each fiddle.
The final lesson it teaches you is that there is never one perfect tune. Every run at every bike park will result in different recommendation. For me that was a surprisingly significant lightbulb moment that got me much closer to set-it-and-forget-it. Get close and walk away.
But when things don’t feel right, I’ll pop it back on.
For me the cost was more justifiable. Six bikes between wife and me. She’s a fiddler but has zero understanding. I let the ShockWiz tell her what to do with her shit and that’s worth every penny.


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[rideit]

Every time I think I ‘understand’ my shock, I get a new bike with a new shock, and I feel like I have to start all over again! (different leverage ratios/kinematics, different travel, different damping systems, different weight oils, different tunes, luftkappe, etc)…but hey, I love tinkering with all of it!

[hick]

I've had both good and bad luck with DVO.

First Topaz shock I had was awesome. Then my Mojo3 came with a DVO Topaz fork. It made a lot of suction noises but worked great, until it imploded after a couple years hard use. Something something about the bushings and damper failing. It was sent up to DVO to work on, and they offered me a brand new one for $500. It's been good since, but still a bit noisy. When I ordered a Revel rail last year I opted for DVO Topaz and Onyx over RockShox...mainly due to lack of available RS service kits and DVO being just up the highway from me. Both fork and shock have been good so far, but the fork makes that same suction noise as previous ones. Not sure if its normal. I really like them when they work well, that Topaz fork could soak up a lot of big hits for its minimal travel.

If you're having problems with them, and the local shop sucks I'd call DVO directly. They have great customer service and will help you get them up and running especially if you can ship the fork/shock back to DVO.

Same on noisy fork. There is the sucking noise combined with what I believe to be the clang of the OTT spring deeper in the travel. Bike is back at shop since it’s still all under warranty, if they don’t fix it I’ll take that advice if shipping the fork back to DVO. No idea when they’ll have the rear shock back together (thanks to Eluder I’m up and running with a backup rear shock!)Thanks for the beta!


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[Meconium]

Any recommendations on a somewhat relevant XS or XXS non boost 29" FS frame?
XC or trail, my old-school parts bin is overflowing and figure if I could find a cheap beater with survivable frame, I could build up something for wife or kid.

Know of a good database that lets you search shock/frame size compatibility? Like type in old shock dims and you get 10 or 15-years’ worth of frame options.

Alternatively, I have a hoarding problem that I need to let go of.

[simple]

A super small non boost 29er FS frame sounds like a flexy poorly designed bike that should be in the bin. Look for an old Niner or Gary Fisher. They fit that need perfectly.

[Phall]

Pivot had a handfull of xxs/xs sizes available back in the non-boost days if I'm not mistaken

[Meconium]

Think a small Superlight 29 frame (2012-2014) is a waist if time?

[El Chupacabra]

If it's cheap enough and will get ridden, why not?

[Dee Hubbs]

No matter how many spare non-boost 29er wheels I had lying around, if I was trying to build a XS, 10 year old geometry frame I would would not go with 29 wheels. I'd use some of my spare parts and then buy/trade 27.5 wheels.
29er frames had horrible geos in that era, let a alone trying to squeeze 29 wheels into an XXS or XS frame set.
Just me 2 cents.

[Meconium]

No matter how many spare non-boost 29er wheels I had lying around, if I was trying to build a XS, 10 year old geometry frame I would would not go with 29 wheels. I'd use some of my spare parts and then buy/trade 27.5 wheels.
29er frames had horrible geos in that era, let a alone trying to squeeze 29 wheels into an XXS or XS frame set.
Just me 2 cents.

I know, A small 2017 Banshee Splitfire is probably worth keeping an eye out for. It has 26 and 27.5 interchangeable dropouts, fits an extra shock I already have. Haven't researched but, it should be possible to fudge QR XTR rear hub to fit if I rebuild rear to 26" front wheels are cheap or trade for either 26 or 27.5. Open to hard tail for the kid if more progressive. Who was it that stuck with narrow hub spacing for a strangely long time, older Yelli Screamy?