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[Sandbox]

Think I found a SC Tallboy frame at a decent price. Now onto the fork, 34 vs Pike?? What are we thinking?


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[toast2266]

Think I found a SC Tallboy frame at a decent price. Now onto the fork, 34 vs Pike?? What are we thinking?


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If you're leaving the travel at 130, I'd go 34 - it's a bit lighter. If you're gonna overfork it, I'd maybe consider the Pike - it's a bit stiffer, which will matter more as the travel goes up.

But they're both solid forks. You're not really gonna go wrong. The realistic answer is get whichever one is available.

[evdog]

I bent mine and that's what they said they sent as a replacement (I didn't test it before I installed it). Contact Stan's before you buy a new one, evdog. They replaced my axle and complete freehub body with bearings quickly and basically no questions asked.

Hadn't thought of the warranty avenue since this is over a year old, but turns out they cover for 3 yrs. Submitted a claim this morning and asked for a steel axle. Guy I talked to didn't think that would be an issue. Hopefully they can get it to me quickly. I will still likely try to replace the hub with DT but not urgent.

[funkendrenchman]

Think I found a SC Tallboy frame at a decent price. Now onto the fork, 34 vs Pike?? What are we thinking?


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A new Tallboy? That frame deserves more fork if possible. I’d definitely go Pike.

[Sandbox]

If you're leaving the travel at 130, I'd go 34 - it's a bit lighter. If you're gonna overfork it, I'd maybe consider the Pike - it's a bit stiffer, which will matter more as the travel goes up.

But they're both solid forks. You're not really gonna go wrong. The realistic answer is get whichever one is available.

I’m leaning 140…. This will be my only FS bike this season for sure and I think the little extra travel wouldn’t hurt.

And yes…. Availability….


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[evdog]

Any reason to avoid Raceface ARC30 wheels?

There is a set on CL built up with DT 350 hubs - 27.5 wheels, boost, 30mm inner width and new never mounted on a bike. Pretty much what I want but I've never run RF rims. FWIW usually run Stans with Maxxis DHFs front and rear.

[joetron]

Any reason to avoid Raceface ARC30 wheels?

There is a set on CL built up with DT 350 hubs - 27.5 wheels, boost, 30mm inner width and new never mounted on a bike. Pretty much what I want but I've never run RF rims. FWIW usually run Stans with Maxxis DHFs front and rear.

I’ve seen 3 or 4 of those rims crack at the eyelets.


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[toast2266]

Any reason to avoid Raceface ARC30 wheels?

There is a set on CL built up with DT 350 hubs - 27.5 wheels, boost, 30mm inner width and new never mounted on a bike. Pretty much what I want but I've never run RF rims. FWIW usually run Stans with Maxxis DHFs front and rear.

The rims are definitely soft. Not horribly out of line with other soft-ish rims, but they're not gonna be as durable as good dt rims.

[Sandbox]

A new Tallboy? That frame deserves more fork if possible. I’d definitely go Pike.

Yep, V4.

[jm2e]

Race Face and E13 are gonna get beat up fast compared with Stan’s or DT equivalent.
Depends on your bash factor.
Those wheels could be worth it just to get you rolling and plan for maybe relaxing the rear rim down the road when it’s toasted.


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[evdog]

Thanks for input on the RF wheels! I think I'll pass and look for something that won't get beat up. Front wheel would be ok, but I'd kill the rear for sure.

[Falcon3]

Giant Trance aluminum. I’d like to drill into the top of the top tube near the head tube and install riv-nuts for extra bottle bosses. I’d epoxy them in so corrosion in the holes wouldn’t be a big concern.

Any issues with this? I want to use the bosses for a top tube bag- I have a strap-mount bag but I’m a crazy person and want a clean mount.

[toast2266]

Giant Trance aluminum. I’d like to drill into the top of the top tube near the head tube and install riv-nuts for extra bottle bosses. I’d epoxy them in so corrosion in the holes wouldn’t be a big concern.

Any issues with this? I want to use the bosses for a top tube bag- I have a strap-mount bag but I’m a crazy person and want a clean mount.

Definitely maybe. Probably ok.

I don't think anyone's gonna be able to give you a solid answer unless they did the engineering on that frame and can run FEA on it.

[teledad]

Hadn't thought of the warranty avenue since this is over a year old, but turns out they cover for 3 yrs. Submitted a claim this morning and asked for a steel axle. Guy I talked to didn't think that would be an issue. Hopefully they can get it to me quickly. I will still likely try to replace the hub with DT but not urgent.

I blew up a Novatec axle like that. Replaced it with a steel axle which lasted for about 9 months until I heard another crack and the wheel stopped turning. Figured it was the axle again but it turned out I had cracked the shell. At that point I gave up and ordered a DT350.

[Dee Hubbs]

Giant Trance aluminum. I’d like to drill into the top of the top tube near the head tube and install riv-nuts for extra bottle bosses. I’d epoxy them in so corrosion in the holes wouldn’t be a big concern.

Any issues with this? I want to use the bosses for a top tube bag- I have a strap-mount bag but I’m a crazy person and want a clean mount.

Pull your fork from the head tube to access the inside of your top tube, and epoxy 2 Neodymium Disc Magnets inside your top tube. You can then use 2 other magnets inside your bag will hold it on to the top tube.
The process I have used is tape the 2 magnets (actually one at a time, do the furthest reach first) to the top tube where you want them. Lather the other 2 magnets with epoxy, use a tool (I used a spoke) to put them in place, they will line up with, and attract to the exterior top tube magnets. Let the epoxy cure, and voila, snap on, snap off, the top tube bag.

[Sandbox]

Pull your fork from the head tube to access the inside of your top tube, and epoxy 2 Neodymium Disc Magnets inside your top tube. You can then use 2 other magnets inside your bag will hold it on to the top tube.
The process I have used is tape the 2 magnets (actually one at a time, do the furthest reach first) to the top tube where you want them. Lather the other 2 magnets with epoxy, use a tool (I used a spoke) to put them in place, they will line up with, and attract to the exterior top tube magnets. Let the epoxy cure, and voila, snap on, snap off, the top tube bag.

That is genius. Well done


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[El Chupacabra]

X2. I'll have to remember that.

[troth]

Pull your fork from the head tube to access the inside of your top tube, and epoxy 2 Neodymium Disc Magnets inside your top tube. You can then use 2 other magnets inside your bag will hold it on to the top tube.
The process I have used is tape the 2 magnets (actually one at a time, do the furthest reach first) to the top tube where you want them. Lather the other 2 magnets with epoxy, use a tool (I used a spoke) to put them in place, they will line up with, and attract to the exterior top tube magnets. Let the epoxy cure, and voila, snap on, snap off, the top tube bag.

Well this a great idea. any issue with using this method to mount a GPS unit? not sure if the magnets would mess with the GPS.

[east or bust]

Pull your fork from the head tube to access the inside of your top tube, and epoxy 2 Neodymium Disc Magnets inside your top tube. You can then use 2 other magnets inside your bag will hold it on to the top tube.
The process I have used is tape the 2 magnets (actually one at a time, do the furthest reach first) to the top tube where you want them. Lather the other 2 magnets with epoxy, use a tool (I used a spoke) to put them in place, they will line up with, and attract to the exterior top tube magnets. Let the epoxy cure, and voila, snap on, snap off, the top tube bag.

Damn, that is a good idea.

Do you happen to know what strength magnets you used?

I did a quick search and was pretty shocked to see how much pull some of those little magnets are capable of. You can get a pack of 10 145lb magnets for 50 bucks. That’s pretty incredible.

[Dee Hubbs]

Damn, that is a good idea.
Do you happen to know what strength magnets you used?
I did a quick search and was pretty shocked to see how much pull some of those little magnets are capable of. You can get a pack of 10 145lb magnets for 50 bucks. That’s pretty incredible.

I cant remember the exact specs, but they are not crazy strong, maybe 5lbs-8lbs
They are somewhere around 1/2" x 1/8". I typically use these as a cadence magnet when a sensor requires a magnet on the crank. Instead of zip tying an ugly cycling specific magnet to the crank arm, these fit nicely to the backside of the pedal spindle in the recesses on the back side of the crank.

[Falcon3]

Thanks Dee that’s super helpful. I’ll look into magnets for the top tube bag.

Another question, what are people using for securing suspension bolts? I’ve got both blue loctite and vibratite. I’ve had multiple suspension bolts back out mid-ride in the past and fuck up bearings and shocks so I’d like whatever I use to be pretty bomber.

[rideit]

Hell, use a bit of red, perhaps?

[meepmoop24]

Thanks Dee that’s super helpful. I’ll look into magnets for the top tube bag.

Another question, what are people using for securing suspension bolts? I’ve got both blue loctite and vibratite. I’ve had multiple suspension bolts back out mid-ride in the past and fuck up bearings and shocks so I’d like whatever I use to be pretty bomber.

Blue should be fine. If it's backing out with it on the threads then degrease everything with rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner (including the female threads), reapply the loctite, then put it back together.

[cydwhit]

I think the advent x has a normal 10 speed cog spacing, right? So maybe just run the drivetrain with an xt 10 speed shifter / derailleur? It looks like a long cage xt handles a 46t max, so you'd be pushing it a bit with a 48t, but I bet it'd work.

So, I took this excellent advice... Still not quite enough separation from the upper pulley and the big cog, so I grabbed a longer B-screw from the hardware store, with that in place, it works, but isn't perfect. And the B-screw, at full extension, seems primed to bend or slip off the stop.

So, I could grab an even longer screw, or, hypothetically, isn't this like the whole point of Wolftooth's goat link? This feels like a really stupid question, so I apologize, but even though Wolftooth mostly talks about using it to jump up to a 42 cassette, shouldn't it also help with this? Or am I an idiot who should stick to actually compatible drivetrain parts?

[toast2266]

So, I took this excellent advice... Still not quite enough separation from the upper pulley and the big cog, so I grabbed a longer B-screw from the hardware store, with that in place, it works, but isn't perfect. And the B-screw, at full extension, seems primed to bend or slip off the stop.

So, I could grab an even longer screw, or, hypothetically, isn't this like the whole point of Wolftooth's goat link? This feels like a really stupid question, so I apologize, but even though Wolftooth mostly talks about using it to jump up to a 42 cassette, shouldn't it also help with this? Or am I an idiot who should stick to actually compatible drivetrain parts?

Hmmm, that's annoying. Maybe just file down the teeth on the 48 cog a few millimeters?

But yeah, goat link seems like a plausible solution, but I have no experience with them. Wolftooth seems like the kind of company that'd give you a straight answer if you emailed them though.