Re: freehub grease:
You can thin out some regular grease with Tri-flow, or Shimano mineral oil.
Or ask your local shop for a few smears of Dumount into a small baggie.
Re: freehub grease:
You can thin out some regular grease with Tri-flow, or Shimano mineral oil.
Or ask your local shop for a few smears of Dumount into a small baggie.
Dumonde makes both a freehub grease and an oil. I-9 specs either just the oil if you want loud, or a slurry of the oil+grease if you want quiet. I've also found that if you just put a lot of the oil in, Hydra will be silent for several rides.
I’ve been using a about half a pillow pack of Fox Float Fluid in my Hydra. It kept it fairly quiet for about 200 miles.
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I remember the kid who always won the XC race and should have won this one
excpet his brand new hub quit ratcheting, something about the grease
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
I think the answer everyone is overlooking is get rid of the hub with pawls! Then grease accordingly. [emoji16]
...Because I wish I could do that with all my hubs
Getting back to this. Found a how-to vid which showed that I was trying to punch the smaller bushing out the wrong end of the pedal, haha. Link below for anyone doing this later on.
Punched the bushing out the correct end easily using a screwdriver and hammer. For the larger bushing I found a tap at home depot slightly bigger than bushing side that should thread in perfectly. Plan was to get a nut matching size and thread pattern of the tap and wind that on, then crank on the nut to extract the tap out from the pedal with bushing attached. Turns out the threads on the nut were too deep so that didn't work. Fortunately I was able to wrangle the tap out with some channel locks.
The rebuild kit arrived yesterday so I went to install it. Looks like I ordered the wrong one. The bushings are shorter and thicker than the ones in my pedal and they won't fit onto the spindle. Dammit. Will return those and order a set for the next older model of pedal. Process of elimination, that has to be the right kit. Would be nice if they stamped a version # on the pedals to help identify them. They all look the same. No way to tell which kit was the right one except trial and error.
https://www.facebook.com/HTcomponent...2577639761860/
JONG Question re axle to crown heights:
What is the relationship between fork travel and axle to crown in forks that can have travel adjusted E.g. Lets say a DC Fork is listed with Axle to Crown height of 600mm at 200mm of travel, and you reduce the fork travel to 180mm. Does it follow that the Axle to Crown reduces equally and would be 580mm?
Thanks forty
You are flat out wrong cuz they are better, cuz shop bro thru them in and I only had to spend 11.5 K
exaclty the same thing ( only different ) happened way back in the day when a different shop bro thro's in a pair of size 40 specialized clipless shoes, so I asked buddy if he had it in a size 39 to which he said " that shoe is free with the bike "
after processing for about 5 seconds it was obvious ... these shoes fit
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Good takeaway.
Two good but incompatible greases can make a bad paste when mixed. Sort of like if he really did put queso in there.
Here's a tip of that iceberg (the chart shown is not the only one and others differ a bit--so testing is the only way to be sure, but you could also PM Timberridge if you wanted to annoy him):
https://www.machinerylubrication.com...-compatibility
I've been using a blend of Phil Oil and Park plain grease in freehubs for many years. It works well.
ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
Dumb Q that I really should be able to answer, but here goes. If I run a fork at 140 on a bike designed for 130, is there a benefit or downside to running 51mm offset vs. 42mm?
(Element, 140mm Pike)
Thanks!
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Bought as a frame.
I am running it with a 51mm 140, but I am curious if it can be improved. But I am aware of how small the difference is.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Dee, do you think it’s worth waiting?
I guess my question really is if overforking by 10mm will exacerbate the 51mm offset downsides even more.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
-Your to 10mm fork increase slackens the head angle by 0.48*
-The reduced offset fork (42) will increase the trail of the front tire. = Increased trail improves straight-line stability. The front wheel feels harder to turn but also harder to knock off line.
-The increase offset fork (51) will decrease the trail of the front tire. = The front wheel feels easier to turn and it can make a bike feel more nimble.
Yes, but often ‘nimble’ is felt as ‘twitchy’…kind of thinking I might just run it 130 with a 42 offset.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
^^^ to add to that
The reduced offset fork will effectively shorten your wheelbase by ~6mm. That's noticeable, particularly on straight, fast stuff. At least on some bikes, I find that the increased length of the longer offset fork makes the bike feel more stable in a straight line, despite having less trail. Also (barely even worth mentioning) the longer offset will slightly steepen your head angle compared the short offset, which probably isn't a bad thing when you're overforking.
Regardless of all that faff, I'd just run the longer offset fork. Especially on a bike like the Element where climbing matters, I think longer offset forks have better manners while climbing and at slower speeds. The shorter offset forks do better on higher speed corners, but the difference isn't that big.
All right, I think I will try and get a 51 offset 140 Pike…thanks, muchachos. Yes, this is my ‘climbier’ rig, for sure.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Any tips to smooth out shifting on Shimano 12 speed? If I get it shifting good in the bigger sprockets, it's way off on the smaller ones and vise versa. XT shifter/chain, SLX derailleur/cassette. Chain, housing, cables brand new, bike is brand new so hangar is straight, and was having this issue to a lesser extent on the old bike. B screw and limiters seem to be fine. Out of ideas to try. Derailleur looks a little crooked, but it looks like it was built that way, trying to avoid buying a new one, especially if it could be the shifter.
“I really lack the words to compliment myself today.” - Alberto Tomba
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