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[Conundrum]

Dakine Drafter here. Frame has no water bottle space and in a year or two, fanny packs will be out again just like last time so will just keep with the pack.

[Dantheman]

I do love the osprey ski pack I have, so that is a tempting option.

https://www.osprey.com/us/en/product...ackfinder=true

Have it, love it, YMMV.

[jono]

Toss up between the Dakine Drafter 14L or this:

https://www.amazon.com/USWE-Shred-Ba...7&sr=8-10&th=1

No comparison between the tensioned-mesh with an arched frame type and anything that tries to get there with "breathable pads." When I wear a pack it's either an Osprey Syncro 3 (with the mesh like the Drafter) or a much bigger Deuter with pads that look a lot like that Shred. They're both great packs, but I will hang grocery bags off the Osprey to keep from having to use the Deuter in hot weather.

ETA: I thought the Raptor used to have the tensioned-mesh setup but the pics seem to show more of a breathable pad approach The Syncro still shows the good stuff in lots of sizes; I'd look there instead.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Ah yes, the Syncro 20 looks like the ticket.

https://www.osprey.com/us/en/product...NCRO20S19.html

[J. Barron DeJong]

Who da fawk mounts a purse under their too tube?

Had a new noise on my ride yesterday, sounded like creaking/groaning coming from the back end while pedaling hard.

Was pretty sure the freehub just needed some grease (12-sp XT), but was a bit worried I was going to have to come here asking for help again, and a week later it would turn out to be coming from the Mani/Pedi kit I have mounted to the seat stay.

Anyway, took the hub apart tonight, lubed it up, and the noise is gone, so it wasn’t a problem with the Mani/Pedi kit. Glad I saved myself from that embarrassment!

[benk]

Suspension/rebound question here. Getting used to a new Sentinel after coming from a Suppressor/Patrol with similar suspension. DHX2 with 2.75” 525lbs coil and Pike up front with 3 tokens and 78psi.

Suspension feels good and balanced riding and pedaling but when it comes to jumps, it’s like I’m riding a bucking bronco. I nearly was sent over the bars on an easy 10’ jump today. I’m not an expert on jumps but felt comfortable on 10-15’ with my patrol. Sentinel is a different story.

My rebound lsc/hsc is set very slow and my fork is set in the middle.

A buddy was saying if the compression rate for front and rear aren’t near equal this could be the cause? Like the front fork doesn’t compress as much as the rear which is causing different rebound rates?

I’m 240lbs loaded up and believe the rear shock is around 30% sag.

Any thoughts on if I should try a different coil rate?

[rideit]

I don’t have an answer, but visualizing 240 pound you hurtling 15 feet through the air is terrifying!

[toast2266]

Suspension/rebound question here. Getting used to a new Sentinel after coming from a Suppressor/Patrol with similar suspension. DHX2 with 2.75” 525lbs coil and Pike up front with 3 tokens and 78psi.

Suspension feels good and balanced riding and pedaling but when it comes to jumps, it’s like I’m riding a bucking bronco. I nearly was sent over the bars on an easy 10’ jump today. I’m not an expert on jumps but felt comfortable on 10-15’ with my patrol. Sentinel is a different story.

My rebound lsc/hsc is set very slow and my fork is set in the middle.

A buddy was saying if the compression rate for front and rear aren’t near equal this could be the cause? Like the front fork doesn’t compress as much as the rear which is causing different rebound rates?

I’m 240lbs loaded up and believe the rear shock is around 30% sag.

Any thoughts on if I should try a different coil rate?

I'd wager a shiny nickle that it has nothing to do with your suspension settings and everything to do with bigger wheels on a slacker bike. I'd bet you just need to adjust your pump / pop timing a tiny bit to account for the new bike. Usually getting bucked means your pop is a bit late. Which would make sense if you're coming from smaller wheels / shorter geo.

Lots of people vastly overstate how much of a difference suspension settings make on jumps. Not saying they make zero difference, but suspension settings aren't going to make or break proper technique.

[benk]

but suspension settings aren't going to make or break proper technique.

Appreciate the feedback, was beginning to think this as well since I’ve changed the rebound without any difference with the buck. Looks like I’ll need to go back to basics

[toast2266]

Appreciate the feedback, was beginning to think this as well since I’ve changed the rebound without any difference with the buck. Looks like I’ll need to go back to basics

Once you wrap your head around it, it'll come easy. When I used to switch back and forth between my downhill bike and a short travel trail bike, it always used to take me a lap or two to remember that the timing for the pop is way different on the dh bike.

[skaredshtles]

Have it, love it, YMMV.

I will also put in a reco for this pack. Owned mine since '14.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

I pulled the trigger on the Syncro 20. It's a little bigger maybe, but I have never owned a daypack and been like, "Man, there's too much room in here." I snagged a big ass Silky Saw too which will go in the pack. Some backcountry trails that need some TLC and I am in the karma debt hole on trail work right now.

I'd wager a shiny nickle that it has nothing to do with your suspension settings and everything to do with bigger wheels on a slacker bike. I'd bet you just need to adjust your pump / pop timing a tiny bit to account for the new bike. Usually getting bucked means your pop is a bit late. Which would make sense if you're coming from smaller wheels / shorter geo.

Lots of people vastly overstate how much of a difference suspension settings make on jumps. Not saying they make zero difference, but suspension settings aren't going to make or break proper technique.

I think some bikes just jump better/more easily than other's as well.

My Knolly Warden was so unpredictable on park type jumps. Total crapshoot when you were gonna get bucked. My SB150 is so smooth and controllable/predictable on jumps with lips.

[Rossymcg]

Suspension/rebound question here. Getting used to a new Sentinel after coming from a Suppressor/Patrol with similar suspension. DHX2 with 2.75” 525lbs coil and Pike up front with 3 tokens and 78psi.

Suspension feels good and balanced riding and pedaling but when it comes to jumps, it’s like I’m riding a bucking bronco. I nearly was sent over the bars on an easy 10’ jump today. I’m not an expert on jumps but felt comfortable on 10-15’ with my patrol. Sentinel is a different story.

My rebound lsc/hsc is set very slow and my fork is set in the middle.

A buddy was saying if the compression rate for front and rear aren’t near equal this could be the cause? Like the front fork doesn’t compress as much as the rear which is causing different rebound rates?

I’m 240lbs loaded up and believe the rear shock is around 30% sag.

Any thoughts on if I should try a different coil rate?

you've become accustomed to popping the lip on your old bike. have a tweak with your pop

Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app

[jono]

I pulled the trigger on the Syncro 20. It's a little bigger maybe, but I have never owned a daypack and been like, "Man, there's too much room in here." I snagged a big ass Silky Saw too which will go in the pack. Some backcountry trails that need some TLC and I am in the karma debt hole on trail work right now.

Let us know how it goes. I'm giving bigger ones a look now, too. Even the 5 looks like a huge upgrade from my 3. I like the light pack, though, so I've used a rain cover to expand my "external" capacity (with appropriate attachments) in the past, and might just keep it to a 12 with that option. But you make a good point about too much room, and the 20 isn't much heavier anyway.

[Andeh]

I've been wondering lately: is there such thing as having a dropper with too much drop?

Not in terms of whether the thing will fit in the frame, or stick up too high when extended. But do you want the saddle to be at least a certain distance above the pedals for an optimal position for controlling the bike when descending?

I run a 185 dropper on a frame with 400mm seat tube length, and 170mm cranks. I could easily run a 200mm dropper based on available insert length. But I've noticed more and more recently that my current dropped saddle position is basically right at the top of my knee, and when I'm moving the bike around a lot, it kinda tugs on my knee pads. If I had a 200mm dropper, it'd be even lower, maybe about the center of my knee. So I'm kinda thinking this might be even worse. Is that nuts?

[toast2266]

I've been wondering lately: is there such thing as having a dropper with too much drop?

Not in terms of whether the thing will fit in the frame, or stick up too high when extended. But do you want the saddle to be at least a certain distance above the pedals for an optimal position for controlling the bike when descending?

I run a 185 dropper on a frame with 400mm seat tube length, and 170mm cranks. I could easily run a 200mm dropper based on available insert length. But I've noticed more and more recently that my current dropped saddle position is basically right at the top of my knee, and when I'm moving the bike around a lot, it kinda tugs on my knee pads. If I had a 200mm dropper, it'd be even lower, maybe about the center of my knee. So I'm kinda thinking this might be even worse. Is that nuts?

Not nuts. I never really liked having my seat crazy low. I like to be able to brace the saddle against my leg in corners, just above the knee. I could get away with a 200mm post on most frames, but a 180 feels like plenty.

Even on my DH bikes with a fixed seatpost and where I was 100% unconcerned with seated pedaling, I would still run my saddle at that same height.

[Toddball]

I've been wondering lately: is there such thing as having a dropper with too much drop?

Not in terms of whether the thing will fit in the frame, or stick up too high when extended. But do you want the saddle to be at least a certain distance above the pedals for an optimal position for controlling the bike when descending?

I run a 185 dropper on a frame with 400mm seat tube length, and 170mm cranks. I could easily run a 200mm dropper based on available insert length. But I've noticed more and more recently that my current dropped saddle position is basically right at the top of my knee, and when I'm moving the bike around a lot, it kinda tugs on my knee pads. If I had a 200mm dropper, it'd be even lower, maybe about the center of my knee. So I'm kinda thinking this might be even worse. Is that nuts?

I've been puzzling over this today, after just installing a 210mm dropper (coming from a 125mm). I had gotten used to the 125mm dropper on most trails, but would get out the multitool and drop it several more cm before riding really steep trails. The saddle was also noticeably too high when fiddling around at the pump track or trying to get sideways off jumps.

However, now I'm a little worried about saddle-to-tire clearance being a little tight at full bottom-out. Will try not to get anything caught in there I guess.

[Dee Hubbs]

I've been puzzling over this today, after just installing a 210mm dropper (coming from a 125mm). I had gotten used to the 125mm dropper on most trails, but would get out the multitool and drop it several more cm before riding really steep trails. The saddle was also noticeably too high when fiddling around at the pump track or trying to get sideways off jumps.

However, now I'm a little worried about saddle-to-tire clearance being a little tight at full bottom-out. Will try not to get anything caught in there I guess.

Remove all the air from your shock, compress your suspension, and measure your tire to saddle clearance, then add the measurement of your two testicles stacked on top of one another, as long as your tire to saddle clearance is greater than your testicle stack height, you should be fine.

[Andeh]

Not nuts. I never really liked having my seat crazy low. I like to be able to brace the saddle against my leg in corners, just above the knee. I could get away with a 200mm post on most frames, but a 180 feels like plenty.

Even on my DH bikes with a fixed seatpost and where I was 100% unconcerned with seated pedaling, I would still run my saddle at that same height.

Yeah, I was thinking specifically of DH bikes (and DJ too) - it's really rare to fully slam the saddles, to both use the saddle for leverage between thighs, and keep it away from knees.

[Andeh]

I've been puzzling over this today, after just installing a 210mm dropper (coming from a 125mm). I had gotten used to the 125mm dropper on most trails, but would get out the multitool and drop it several more cm before riding really steep trails. The saddle was also noticeably too high when fiddling around at the pump track or trying to get sideways off jumps.

However, now I'm a little worried about saddle-to-tire clearance being a little tight at full bottom-out. Will try not to get anything caught in there I guess.

Speaking from experience, sandwiching your groin between a rear tire and your saddle is NOT a pleasant experience.

[Boissal]

Agree on the fact that too much dropper is a thing. I'm running my OneUp at 190, could go to 210 and make it work but I like to push on the outside of the saddle when cornering and if the seat is fully slammed I can't make it work. 190 is plenty even on mega steep trails, as others have said at some point the position of the seat doesn't matter as your ass is buzzing the rear wheel before the seat ever comes into play.
Massive dropper also makes pedaling seated completely ridiculous if you need to do so on short sections without getting the seat back up. Knees coming up to your ears and stuff...

[toast2266]

Speaking from experience, sandwiching your groin between a rear tire and your saddle is NOT a pleasant experience.

Although it's a great way to use your groin to rip the saddle off it's rails and have the now exposed rails puncture you just above your manhood.

I've heard.

[Toddball]

Remove all the air from your shock, compress your suspension, and measure your tire to saddle clearance, then add the measurement of your two testicles stacked on top of one another, as long as your tire to saddle clearance is greater than your testicle stack height, you should be fine.

I have a coil shock and the hardware specifics make it a pain to remove the spring, but I unbolted the shock and measured shock eye-to-eye length, linkage bolt-to-bolt length, etc, with the saddle touching the tire. I got:

(Shock eye-to-eye = 200mm) - (linkage bolt-to-bolt = 143.2mm) - (shock stroke = 57mm) = -0.2mm

Makes me wonder how well-calibrated that bottom-out bumper is (/should actually just take the spring off and do this properly).

[HAB]

Even on my DH bikes with a fixed seatpost and where I was 100% unconcerned with seated pedaling, I would still run my saddle at that same height.

Yup. I'm tall enough/have long enough legs that 200-210mm is my sweet spot, but even if such things were widely available, I wouldn't want more than that.

Edit: Just did some measurements. All are measured from the center of the BB to the top of the seat, with the post lowered (if applicable)

DH bike: 565 mm
Bike 1 (210 mm drop post): 568 mm
Bike 2 (200 mm drop post): 578 mm
Bike 3 (175 mm drop post): 610 mm

I didn't measure equal heights out when I set these or anything. All were just done by feel. I hereby conclude that 210 mm is dialed for me, but I can live with a bit less.

[gramboh]

Basic drivetrain question that is confusing me. My chain has a bunch of extra slack on the lower portion (from bottom of chainring to the derailleur bottom jockey wheel) in the biggest/hardest gear (10t on Shimano XT 12spd). Drivetrain is like 200km old and chain was cut to length and installed by trusted mechanic and looked fine when new. I recently noticed this slack in the chain when off the bike, but shifting is still fine in both directions and the chain slack is only on the top/hardest few gears. Does that mean that mean b-tension is somehow off? Clutch seems to be operating normally.