Ask the experts

[skaredshtles]

Believe it or not, they finally got it right.
I'll start out by saying I was with you 100%. The older Schwalbes wore out just looking at rocky trails. The more recent ones shed (knobs) like a St Bernard in July.
However...
The new "Super" series are actually amazing. They sent me a new NN to replace the old one (One thing I have always said about Schwalbe, their customer service is excellent) and I've used that tire for a few months through some of the gnarliest technical, sharp rock infested trails New Mexico has to offer and they literally look like new. Knobs not only intact but not even worn at the edges.
You know that popping sound when your rear tire runs through a sharp rocky notch; the one where you can just picture the knobs flying off?
Nothing.
Perfect.
And this is with the lighter weight Super Ground version.
I know, "Screw me three times..."
But seriously, they really do work.

Man... I'm still skeptical. Saying Schwalbe fixed the NN is akin to saying Kenda fixed the Nevegal.

[Roxtar]

Man... I'm still skeptical. Saying Schwalbe fixed the NN is akin to saying Kenda fixed the Nevegal.

Don't blame you. If I didn't see it myself...
BTW, the new Nev is a pretty sweet rear tire. Kind of reminds me of a slightly less durable NN.

[schuss]

Campy's tech manuals are pretty good, assuming this is 10-speed look here: https://www.campagnolo.com/media/fil...ev02_07_16.pdf

The only tricky part (relative to SRAM or Shimano) is that the "B" screw (H in that manual) is in a different (non-obvious) location. Also Campy recommends adjusting that screw last while for Shimano/SRAM you generally adjust it first.

Campy tends to be pretty sensitive to chain length, so that's one place to look (especially if your trainer cassette is a different size than the one on your wheel). This shows how to get the proper chain length: https://www.campagnolo.com/media/fil...ev00_09_16.pdf

Much thanks!

[RootSkier]

Here's one sure to make the experts roll their eyes: What is the best clipless pedal that also has a flat side? I know these are generally for gapers but I want to put them on a gravel bike I am going to use for commuting and general townie shit, including with flip flops, etc. I think I have a really old pair of Shimanos that are spd on one side and flat on the other, but they weigh about 2 lbs each.

[skaredshtles]

Here's one sure to make the experts roll their eyes: What is the best clipless pedal that also has a flat side? I know these are generally for gapers but I want to put them on a gravel bike I am going to use for commuting and general townie shit, including with flip flops, etc. I think I have a really old pair of Shimanos that are spd on one side and flat on the other, but they weigh about 2 lbs each.

I think your best bet would be some of those flat adapters that clip into SPD's. Not sure what they are called or if they are even made any more... I don't think that anyone makes any "proper" clipless/flat combo pedals.

[skaredshtles]

Don't blame you. If I didn't see it myself...
BTW, the new Nev is a pretty sweet rear tire. Kind of reminds me of a slightly less durable NN.

See... now I *know* you're taking the piss.

YOU'LL NOT FOOL ME!!

[Dee Hubbs]

What is the best clipless pedal that also has a flat side?

Shimano PD-EH500 - 383g (pair) These have SPD on one side and pins on the "other side" $80.
OR
Shimano PD-T8000 - 392g. These are a 1 sided XT pedal, with a plastic cage around it for a platform pedal on the other side.
OR
I just read flip flop. so Shimano PD-T421, SPD one side and smooth urban looking pedal on the other side. 418g.

[teledad]

Here's one sure to make the experts roll their eyes: What is the best clipless pedal that also has a flat side? I know these are generally for gapers but I want to put them on a gravel bike I am going to use for commuting and general townie shit, including with flip flops, etc. I think I have a really old pair of Shimanos that are spd on one side and flat on the other, but they weigh about 2 lbs each.

Shimano EH500. Not much heavier than a standard SPD.

[carlh]

I have crank brothers double shots on my cargo bike for the same reason. Flat side is small but has real pins so your feet don’t slide off. Clip side feels like a candy. My knees like the float of crank brothers and if you replace the outer bearing every season they are fine.

[XXX-er]

I think your best bet would be some of those flat adapters that clip into SPD's. Not sure what they are called or if they are even made any more... I don't think that anyone makes any "proper" clipless/flat combo pedals.

yeah this ^^ i got a set of those plastic adapters for SPD pedals, they are really good but I can't find them at home and I cna't find them in stores

flat/clipless combo pedal are fucking heavy but what they are good for is teaching the timid new user how to use clipless, but once they know how to use clipless and realize they arent going to die while clipped to a bike they just use the clips all the time

my favorite is a local old fuck who said " yer gona be stuck to the bike using them SPD, I'm going to keep using my toeclips "

[Dee Hubbs]

my favorite is a local old fuck who said " yer gona be stuck to the bike using them SPD, I'm going to keep using my toeclips "

What surprises me the most is that you’re not considered the local old fuck?[emoji6]

[XXX-er]

at least in this case old fuck is a state of mind, in any case I can stand up straight and still see my feet so people often think i am a lot younger than i am, maybe gator on the dance floor and they forget to do the math eh

the all grey is the give away

edit: the amazing thing is choosing toeclips/straps over spd cuz it will be less confining and safer to get out of

[cydwhit]

Anybody experienced any negative issues related to lack of bushing overlap when bumping a Lyric up to the full 180 mm?

Pretty sure I'm gonna do it regardless, unless there's some horror stories out there.

Getting a little bike means I can justify DH-ifying my Enduro a little, bump travel to 180, throw inserts in, etc.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Power meter pedals.......crankset?

Trying to figure out what to put on my gravel bike that won't cost $800+. It's getting warm out and training in power zones so I don't want to be stuck on the trainer indoors anymore.

[Dee Hubbs]

^Ive been super happy with Stages single sided power meter on my Shimano cranks.

[RootSkier]

Shimano PD-EH500 - 383g (pair) These have SPD on one side and pins on the "other side" $80.

Perfect. Picked up a pair with the new whip yesterday. Thanks.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

^Ive been super happy with Stages single sided power meter on my Shimano cranks.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but figuring out what to buy makes my brain hurt.

Currently running a SRAM Apex 1x with 68mm BSA, so I probably need to buy a power meter crankset AND a new BB? Anyone?

[Dee Hubbs]

By your BB description, I assume your Apex Crank is GXP, meaning 24/22mm spindle. (Not 30mm spindle)
For a GXP you just need to buy the Stages SRAM Road GXP single left side crank arm.
Unbolt left crank arm, bolt on Power Meter Left Crank Arm.
No other parts needed.
GXP is a dying standard, so a close out deal or used model can be found cheap.
(2 second google: https://m.pinkbike.com/buysell/2944865/)
IF you crank is a 30mm spindle, you need to also buy a replacement 30mm spindle ($70) from Stages because a 30mm SRAM crank has the spindle attached to the left crank arm.

[elesquiador]

I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but figuring out what to buy makes my brain hurt.

Currently running a SRAM Apex 1x with 68mm BSA, so I probably need to buy a power meter crankset AND a new BB? Anyone?

If you're willing to be without your crankset for a little while, another option is to send your existing crankset in to have a power meter installed. 4iiii has mine right now because I needed the pod placed in specific location for frame clearance. They've been easy to work with and were fast to get back to me when I asked questions about clearance (I sent them pictures), but I don't have the crank back yet, so I can't give a full review.

https://4iiii.com/cms-data/pages/how...y-install-work

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Good info guys. Thanks. 170mm crank arm which narrows my choices down a bit. Guess I will have to pull the crankset to figure out the spindle size cause there isn't much info that I can see on the spider/chainrings/crank arms.

[Dee Hubbs]

Good info guys. Thanks. 170mm crank arm which narrows my choices down a bit. Guess I will have to pull the crankset to figure out the spindle size cause there isn't much info that I can see on the spider/chainrings/crank arms.

If it undo's on the Left its GXP, if it undoes on the right it 30mm. It should also say on the crank bolt cap.

FYI: 4iii only sells prefit Shimano Power Meters, but can install a mail in SRAM arm.

[Eluder]

Anybody experienced any negative issues related to lack of bushing overlap when bumping a Lyric up to the full 180 mm?

Pretty sure I'm gonna do it regardless, unless there's some horror stories out there.

Getting a little bike means I can justify DH-ifying my Enduro a little, bump travel to 180, throw inserts in, etc.

You will be fine its within the design perimeters and works. I doubt you notice much difference than at 170mm.

[RootSkier]

I am taking my shock off to send it in for service, something I have never done before. I have watched a few Youtube videos but nobody ever mentions whether I should depressurize it before I do. I should, right?

[wendigo]

keep it fully pumped up, take video (depressurize if you want to release all the tension and make it a whole lot easier to remove)
I release the shock air when flying with my bike as well.

[RootSkier]

I knew it was a dumb question but Diaz has this on their website: "Please enter your current shock pressure. If unknown, please leave your shock inflated when shipping or bringing it in."