What he said. I'll just add: if you haven't trued wheels before, pay attention to twist in the spokes. If you turn a little extra and then come back a little to take the twist out you should get a little more stable results.
What he said. I'll just add: if you haven't trued wheels before, pay attention to twist in the spokes. If you turn a little extra and then come back a little to take the twist out you should get a little more stable results.
A drop of Triflow on each the spoke/nipple threads and rim/nipple interface will make things easier, and help prevent some of the spoke windup mentioned above.
I may have to fly out to Jackson with a case of LaCroix.
I emailed Canfield asking if they would work. Jeff said they should work fine but would recommend a re-dish. Im not familiar with how it works but I could definitely DIY this.
Or maybe its the spoke holes on the rim that are offset and not the actual rim in relation to the hub? The seller does not seem to like answering questions.
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These are the wheels.
$500
New.
Offset carbon wheel set NON-BOOST 29'er
Chris King hubs set up as QR.
Bontrager QR skewers included.
2.6 mm offset
25mm ID
30mm OD
DT swiss DB spokes
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I saw those on FB. It's a solid deal that I considered. I think the "offset" refers to the asymmetrical rims, so I don't think dishing would be an concern. My gravel bike is has 12mm axles, though, so I'd have to buy the adapters etc. If yours is QR it would work easily.
Side note: why do people use the abbreviations "ID" and "OD" (Inner & Outer Diameter) to refer to rim width? Perhaps it is for the same reason that so many use the word "breaks" to refer to the devices that stop a vehicle. The language is falling apart.
ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
Why wouldn’t you use ID and OD?
Those things matter, and need to be differentiated.
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The "D" stands for "dimension."
ID & OD are taken--they mean Inner Diameter & Outer Diameter. IW & OW would make a lot more sense to refer to rim width.
Another one that drives me crazy is the use of "peddle" to refer to powering one's bicycle with its pedals (as opposed to selling things door-to-door, which is what the word actually means). For crying out loud, how hard is it to use the correct language for things?
/rant
ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
Bad spelling is for loosers.
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
I think this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-755...YAAOSwov5c7u6c
Not finding anything from Jagwire
@LeeLau, I'm not near the one hose I have left to take a pic, but this is the same set I have
https://www.ebay.com/i/283489118608?...0aArDKEALw_wcB
think I better source some brake adapters before dropping a hundo + on the hose kits
Back to dishing...I would recommend every other nipple on one side, then the other, back to first side etc. maybe not as critical with carbon wheels but releasing tension on 1/4 of one side of the wheel all at once can cause problems ....also don’t cut spokes out of a tensioned wheel. I’ve seen the dura ace logo spiral on a front wheel.
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I rip the groomed on tele gear
Ticketchecker i think those are what I have. I can mail them to you if you like. I can mail them with the calipers too as they're no use to me
Edit - just checked again and almost certain it's the same. Difficult to tell until i see the mounting fixtures in person but they sure look the same
Last edited by LeeLau; 11-16-2020 at 11:05 AM.
Do you ride a fully rigid bike?
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
This whole re-dishing thing is confusing me, and all I see is headaches ahead for you.
1. Is Canfield saying the don’t want wheels properly dished? Do they want the wheel to collapse on you? Is the tolerance so retarded on the bike that it doesn’t fit a normal wheel? If so, I see tire clearance issues in your future.
2. Machine built wheel, possibly with some kind of thread lock and alloy nipples. So you’re gonna think you’re loosening/tightening and all you’ll get is the sudden loud pop as the wind up releases. Unless of course you strip out the alloy nipples first.
3. This all assumes it was properly dished with well balanced spoke tension in the first place.
4. I don’t see much value in a pre-boost QR wheel set. If you want it, and have the cash, then great. But you’ll never sell those wheels or hubs. Standards changes fucked the wheel game.
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However many are in a shit ton.
Coconut, and ONLY coconut!
Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
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