Ask the experts

[t.odd]

I had the MW5's. My feet were always cold and frequently wet. The velcro ankle cuff would get clogged with snow and wouldn't work.

I have heard of more mixed reviews on the MW5's...granted, I don't fat bike or generally ride in the snow, but I do live in Squamish so they'll definitely be used in wet cold conditions! will report back after more use.

[mall walker]

I guess I should clarify this is for mud/snow, not just winter road riding. Definitely still looking for a mtb-style-sole with spd compatibility. I’m probably not spending $300 tho, at that price I’d just run flats for the winter and use some warm waterproof hiking boots (that I already own)... maybe that’s the answer anyway idk. The cleats get icy pretty easily it seems.

[sethschmautz]

I run Lake 303s with clipless all winter. I try not to unclip. When I do it takes a little to unclog the cleat but it isn't horrible. If you are on a budget I would buy used.

Flats are a totally reasonable way to go in the winter.

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[XXX-er]

I tried trailriding SPD in snow at around freezing point, it sucked big time cuz I couldn't clip-in, YMMV but I thot it was horrible

i got some cheap flats that came on the Fat bike which will be fine with some hikers/ gators in the snow & cold

[HAB]

Flats FTW in winter. They're not going to get clogged up with shit, and my feet stay way warmer not having a steel cleat plate under the ball of my foot, acting as a heat sink.

I spend most of the warmer months clipped in but toggle over for winter riding.

[mall walker]

alright, I just said fuck it and got some cheap flats... what about the back mudguard thing? I can find plenty of front tire fenders... is there a different name for the back thing? something that just attaches to my seat rails?

[skaredshtles]

alright, I just said fuck it and got some cheap flats... what about the back mudguard thing? I can find plenty of front tire fenders... is there a different name for the back thing? something that just attaches to my seat rails?

https://muckynutz.com/

[Dee Hubbs]

What about the back mudguard thing? I can find plenty of front tire fenders... is there a different name for the back thing? something that just attaches to my seat rails?

https://ass-savers.com

[El Chupacabra]

alright, I just said fuck it and got some cheap flats... what about the back mudguard thing? I can find plenty of front tire fenders... is there a different name for the back thing? something that just attaches to my seat rails?

I use a fender that mounts on the seatpost. Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Portland-Desi...a-568999030005

[Iowagriz]

I have something similar to this, google seatpost mounted fender for other options. They can be a little narrow for the winter splatter, but better than nothing. https://www.rei.com/product/851546/s...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[jm2e]

alright, I just said fuck it and got some cheap flats... what about the back mudguard thing? I can find plenty of front tire fenders... is there a different name for the back thing? something that just attaches to my seat rails?

https://www.themudhugger.co.uk
Mud hugger is the full commitment solution.
I always defer to the PNW & UK riders for fender advice.


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[t.odd]

https://www.themudhugger.co.uk
Mud hugger is the full commitment solution.
I always defer to the PNW & UK riders for fender advice.


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I just picked up the frx a couple weeks ago, can't believe I waited so long using those barely effective marsh type guards...which are okay for general incidental riding, but if you ride in particularly wet areas, get one of these! amazing to have a mud free face and glasses, and the water bottle doesn't get nearly as mud caked either. Semi-interested in the rear, but they do add a bit of kook factor...

[Andeh]

The Rapid Racing Products ProGuard fenders are really nice quality. They have a bolt-on version that works for most forks, and a zip tied one for the rear. The rear did not work on my Sentinel v1 because of the brace between the seatstays, but it looks like it will fit perfectly on my GG.

[EWG]

SPDs suck in the winter, but Time Atacs typically work fine for me.

I just use these plus a shoe cover.

[bagtagley]

Servicing a Pike. Can I use Maxima 3wt HP Suspension Fluid in place of Plush?

[sethschmautz]

alright, I just said fuck it and got some cheap flats... what about the back mudguard thing? I can find plenty of front tire fenders... is there a different name for the back thing? something that just attaches to my seat rails?

I ordered these up the other day. I'll report back. Not cheap but like you, was tired of coming back muddy from my rides.

[bagtagley]

Servicing a Pike. Can I use Maxima 3wt HP Suspension Fluid in place of Plush?

Looks like my older Charger damper calls for the HP, but I’d still be interested to know the difference if any.

New question. I have two speed lube kits. I think one is for my old Totem and the other for my Reverb. Will either work to bleed the Charger damper? I’d rather not add to my pile of useless SRAM kits.

[scrublover]

The syringe and hoses will work, but the metal fitting bits are different. Should be able to pick one up relatively cheap/easy.

I've used a few different brand shock oils over the years - all wts are not exactly the same, but so long as you don't get to far from the suggested number, I can't see as it'd make much difference. I don't recall who makes RS fork oils - want to say Golden Spectro, but am probably wrong.

I'd bet most of us wouldn't even be able to tell a difference in a blind test with different oils of similar wt in the same forks/shocks.

[ticketchecker]

I've got an old set of Shimano XT m755 4pot brakes and need hoses to get them going again, seems the dueling banjo hoses aren't easy to come by.

Looks like there is/was a hose kit from Goodridge that can be had on eBay from a UK seller, if it's the right thing...

Is there a certain newer/ish lever that will work with these calipers?

What are my options?

[LeeLau]

I've got an old set of Shimano XT m755 4pot brakes and need hoses to get them going again, seems the dueling banjo hoses aren't easy to come by.

Looks like there is/was a hose kit from Goodridge that can be had on eBay from a UK seller, if it's the right thing...

Is there a certain newer/ish lever that will work with these calipers?

What are my options?

Post a pic of the hoses you need. I may have something

[Roxtar]

I've got an old set of Shimano XT m755 4pot brakes and need hoses to get them going again, seems the dueling banjo hoses aren't easy to come by.

Looks like there is/was a hose kit from Goodridge that can be had on eBay from a UK seller, if it's the right thing...

Is there a certain newer/ish lever that will work with these calipers?

What are my options?

I think both the Goodridge mentioned and Jagwires should work

[slowroastin]

How difficult or pricey would it be to re-dish a wheel build 2.5mm?

Found a new Chris King wheel set with what looks to be knock of version of Nox Skyline carbon rims for the price of the hubs alone. These would be perfect for my Nimble 9 turned gravel bike.


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[rideit]

Very easy.
If you were in JH I would do it for you for a 12 pack of laCroix...

[HAB]

How difficult or pricey would it be to re-dish a wheel build 2.5mm?

Found a new Chris King wheel set with what looks to be knock of version of Nox Skyline carbon rims for the price of the hubs alone. These would be perfect for my Nimble 9 turned gravel bike.


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Very easy for anybody who's used to building wheels.

Why would you need to redish though?

[Dee Hubbs]

How difficult or pricey would it be to re-dish a wheel build 2.5mm?

Found a new Chris King wheel set with what looks to be knock of version of Nox Skyline carbon rims for the price of the hubs alone. These would be perfect for my Nimble 9 turned gravel bike.

You just need to adjust the dish 2.5mm to work with your frame?
If so it's an easy home job. Mount the wheel in frame your frame, starting at the valve stem turn every DriveSide nipple 1/2 turn out, and every NDS nipple 1/2 turn in. See how much that moves your rim, and go again with 1/4 turn if you need more.
If the wheel is true and tensioned to start with, and each nipple gets equal turns, the wheel will stay true and tensioned.