2 pair of skis - one set of bindings

[greg]

to save some bucks, I'ld like to use my freerides on 2 pairs of skis. is there a possibility to realize that?

[Mulletizer]

Yes. However, if you just switch them from pair to pair you'll mess up the threads, get water in the skis, get rotten skis, pull the bindings out, etc...

If I were doing this I would add a metal thread to the skis that won't b damaged by repeated binding changing. A helicoil is one possibility but personally I would sink nuts ino the skis, like a snowboard has. You need to get some snowboard mounting nuts, sink a recess into the ski in the right place for each mounting hole on the binders then glue them in very solidly. You'd probably want to laminiate a layer of glass fiber over the top to hold them down decently too. With plenty of epoxy this should be solid enough. Lots of snowboard repair shops can replace nuts in boards - they should be able to do this for you.

An alternative is to make a pair of mounting plates for each pair of skis which the bindinigs bolt onto (a la Rottefella tele risers). I'd steer away from this though because they would add height to your bindings - a model that plenty of people find too high off the ski already.

[jk]

to save some bucks, I'ld like to use my freerides on 2 pairs of skis. is there a possibility to realize that?

www.crossplate.com
But keep in mind what Mulletizer said about the added height, then there is the weight issue, and durability, and the fact that the plate itself costs probably as much or more than what you can get a second pair of used freerides for..

Nevermind, wasn`t such a great idea after all....
But an option for one pair of bindings + two pairs of skis nontheless.

[greg]

thanks mulletizer, why would the nuts solution be better than the recoils?

does the construction of the ski have any influence on which solution might be best. the two skis are v-explosive (the red one) and fischer big stix 8.6.

does anybody have personal experiences with either one of the solutions?

[greg]

@jk: thanks for the link. sounds quite interesting. although in my, case as I'm doing mainly skimountaineering, the extra weight of 720gr could be kind of annoying. (especially since the explosive isn't the lightest ski around)

also, I think adding extra height to the already high freerides scares me off.

so with this special setup and for my use maybe not the best solution..

[hemas]

thanks mulletizer, why would the nuts solution be better than the recoils?

does the construction of the ski have any influence on which solution might be best. the two skis are v-explosive (the red one) and fischer big stix 8.6.

does anybody have personal experiences with either one of the solutions?

I used Crossplates (2.0's) for two seasons. Not that much problems, but some cracks at the plastic rails... (which are the Akhilles heel of them). But I mostly do tele and aren't chargin'/huckin' on 'em that much.

So the best option (and cheapest) would be to get those inserts in those skis... should work with V-Ex'is and prolly with them Big Stix as well (though of that I'm not certain).

An the best way to get those inserts would be to drill from the base, and then do a base weld over the holes. That way no messing around with laminates...

[greg]

An the best way to get those inserts would be to drill from the base, and then do a base weld over the holes. That way no messing around with laminates...

man - that sounds scary...

[Mulletizer]

The nuts are better because they form an impermeable seal between the bolt and the ski. Helicoils would not; more to the point they are designed as a last-resort solution for semi-permanent placements (eg car spark plugs) and not for repeated bolt insertion/exptraction.

One way of inserting screw is from below, through the p-tex: http://www.transworldsnowboarding.co...246550,00.html

More info on inserts from www.grafsnowboards.com :

The inserts are fastened into the core before layup, and are usually M6 threaded T-nuts in mild or stainless steel. Regular DIY T-nuts are open bottomed, and binding screws which are too long will come through or delaminate the base, so care must be taken. You can buy closed off inserts too which are more expensive but are the correct solution. If you don't trust yourself with binding screws, these may be a better bet. Closed off or 'blind' inserts offer more protection against water ingestion, and sometimes come with a p-tex base which must first be removed (this is for repairs). Mild steel components will show signs of rusting after storage. All steel components to be bonded into the board must be thoroughly abraded and degreased with acetone to get an optimal bond with the epoxy. Inserts are usually arranged in two packs of eight holes spaced in 4cm squares ('4 x 4'). Always mark and drill accurately (and vertically) because a finished board with misaligned inserts is a worthless plank. Very important to countersink a recess on the bottom of the core to allow the base of the insert to seat flush and smooth. If it sticks out you get lumps in the base or bubbles around the insert - a sign of weakness and disbond. Even more crucial is blocking up the insert holes during manufacure. If epoxy resin flows into your inserts they are ruined. Use short M6 grub screws carefully coated in vaseline (don't get it on the outside of the inserts) to block the gap. Those with allen-key heads are easiest to extract afterwards. Or if you're not curing the epoxy by heating, inject melted wax into the insert right up to the brim. This is easily achieved by heating up the inserts with a blowtorch or hot-air gun, and pushing thin slivers of wax into the holes right to the brim. The inserts supplied at snowboardmaterials.com are pre-blocked with a resin cap.

[Teletori]

Here is some pictures of the inserts...










As you see, these inserts come with a Ptex backside, so you can get them flush with the base easy.

Dont know how it will hold up, but I guess since it holds up on snowboard it cant be too bad. But I doubt I would do it on brand new skis...

[splat]

man - that sounds scary...

greg, I've done tbolt inserts. TeleRob and I did a story with photos for Powder on this years ago. You'll have a better chance of lining up the holes if they're drilled off a template from the top, then countersunk from the base side.

As an aftermarket project, it tends to weaken a core that is not sandwiched in metal and will eventually break there, depending on how hard you ski. There are currently nuts available with teeth that grip the wood and prevent them from spinning. And you'll want to epoxy them in as well. A piece of tape over the thread hole prevents epoxy from getting into them, too.

[lemon boy]

Much better off just sacking up and buying a second pair of bindings.

[bossass]

Much better off just sacking up and buying a second pair of bindings.

Exactly.

[splat]

Agreed. Our story was premised as an emergency backcountry fix.
Rob says he's eventually broken every pair he's done this to right at the holes.

edit: it feels kinda weird running a drillbit all the way through a ski (not that you'd have one in the b/c). But we did totally butcher the rest of the job, using a hammer, a screwdriver, and a knife to rough out the base and core for the countersink. it was ugly, but it patched nicely.

[greg]

well, thank you guys for the insights. I think I'm going to refrain from these solutions, at least as long as noone is showing up to tell me: go for the helicoils (or maybe even the nuts)...