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Thread: DIY Alpine Downhill + Tech Toe uphill touring binding

  1. #126
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    This is one of those things that should’ve been “invented” years ago. Thanks Lindahl.

    Now, if anyone is holding some Attack2s feel free to drop me a PM.

  2. #127
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    I am about ready to cannibalize the donor toes (Attack 1 demo). After removing the binding stuff (spring and wings) how does one make a surface parallel to the base? band saw? table saw? belt sander?

  3. #128
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    DIY Alpine Downhill + Tech Toe uphill touring binding

    I’m planning on first removing the afd and long afd bolt. Then drilling out wing rivets, removing two screws to get rid of the wings/top of the toe. Then using a band saw to remove any remaining plastic on top and trim the back of the toe off, then probably grinding flat with a. Belt sander.

    I’ll fill the underside cavities of the binding near where I’m going to drill new holes with machinable epoxy. Drill new M5 clearance through holes, then dremel out some space for stainless steel/nylon locknuts. Then just install the tech toe on top of platform with m5 machine screws into the locknuts on the underside, and you’re good to go


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  4. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muggydude View Post
    I’m planning on first removing the afd and long afd bolt. Then drilling out wing rivets, removing two screws to get rid of the wings/top of the toe. Then using a band saw to remove any remaining plastic on top and trim the back of the toe off, then probably grinding flat with a. Belt sander.

    I’ll fill the underside cavities of the binding near where I’m going to drill new holes with machinable epoxy. Drill new M5 clearance through holes, then dremel out some space for stainless steel/nylon locknuts. Then just install the tech toe on top of platform with m5 machine screws into the locknuts on the underside, and you’re good to go


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    Pretty sure I speak for everyone here: pics would be awesome and appreciated.

  5. #130
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    DIY Alpine Downhill + Tech Toe uphill touring binding

    I’m off work for a little bit starting December 9th, so I’m planning getting this done and writing a how-to with pictures around then


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  6. #131
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    DIY Alpine Downhill + Tech Toe uphill touring binding

    Will update later
    Last edited by Muggydude; 12-13-2020 at 07:48 PM.

  7. #132
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    outstanding, prime; i love this place; gamechanger; great work lindahl and muggydude

  8. #133
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    Nice work muggy! Thanks for documenting the process and driving the DIY cast bus forward.

  9. #134
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    Thats so sick

  10. #135
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    Muggy where the pics bruh killing me


    Ok tangent. If I wanted a taller heel riser for shifts, which of these voile should I order?


  11. #136
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    Thought I would add to this thread as I Have been planning this for a while and was looking to create a slide in 3D printed piece for Warden Demos that would have a passive locking mechanism into the slotted demo base piece. I used a calliper and got the dimensions almost perfect yesterday and printed it today. Needed a bit of sanding and my passive locking mechanism is not going to work as expected.
    - I used too thick of a brace and it doesn't bend/lever enough
    - and the lever button is way too small, so I cut off the protector pieces and tried to hinge it directly from the back
    - the nubs 3D printed arent very strong

    so I am going to have to fix this but it is decently snug that it might work for the up just using friction to keep it in place. The least amount of moving parts the better in my mind. I am going to think of a different way to introduce enough friction to make sure it doesn't slide out if the current friction decreases (likely), but at the same time is easy enough to put in and take out.

    The binding is held in using T nuts that were left over from an 8020 build.

    A simple screw tab like Muggy is using could be an option to increase friction enough to stop any movement which I could easily add by drilling a hole through my current 'passive' mechanism (although a simple redesign of the back passive locking mechanism piece should be pretty easy).

    I have attached a picture of my CAD drawing and the actual part. The design is for some old dynafit tech toes.

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  12. #137
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    Nice work Harvey.

    I started the process too. Have to make some decisions about how to proceed. The convenience of the latch mechanism makes the DynAttack block rather tall. No way around that as some thickness of plastic is needed between the metal Dynafit baseplate on top of the block and the already elevated bottom of the screws securing the toepiece. Was wondering if instead of locknuts for the M5 screws, perhaps tapping threads in JB weld or one rectangle of aluminum? (the red area in the photo of the underside of the block) maybe 3mm thick.

    So how thick does the plastic of the block need to be between the tech base plate (the flat top surface) and the top of the metal it's grabbing onto? Is 5mm good? Or an easier number for my brain: the thickness of the block? remember this is just for going up.

    After flattening the top of the block it will need a concave depression to accomodate the Dynafit's spring mechanism which, when engaged, protrudes below the level of its baseplate. Dremeling out the diamond shaped area between the screw holes will be required.

    I want to trim down the long tails but wondered what more savvy minds thought.

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    Last edited by charlesj; 12-20-2020 at 04:59 PM.

  13. #138
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    The attack mechanism of locking is a lot simpler compared to the Wardens—thanks for posting those pictures Charlesj that is helpful I might try and combine this into my design.

    Would the flat metal baseplate affect the sliding ability of the toe piece? You could likely drill out/epoxy in some T nuts (flat ones, not the serrated kind) in the correct toe pattern for the dynafit toe piece similar to how it was done on this thread.

    If you're looking for simplicity you could also just JB Weld the tech toe onto the toe piece.
    —I could probably go look up the strength of the potential bond and compare it to forces expected for skinning....or just send it.

    5mm should be enough although I would probably use T nuts over threaded plastic. I have bought an extra set of Warden Demos so I might do something like you are doing to use them on two sets of skis if my 3D printing design doesn't work as well as expected.

  14. #139
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    Unless one has a very specific need to do the swappable toes I would say stick to the original idea unless you are very handy and have an absurd amount of time to squander. A milling machine would make this easier. I made the block as low profile as I dared. Going to go mostly with the lock nuts as I don't really trust the tapped threads in JB Weld except for the screw close to the latch where there isn't sufficient real estate.

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    Still tweaking, reducing a little mass here and there (This is not a project for weight weenies, obviously). Trying to figure out how long the block needs to be to have adequate grip on the track. I have no doubt this will work despite my meandering process.

    I did figure out, after spending waaay too much time doing it the clunky way, how to do this better, faster, cleaner:

    1) Chop off the top of Attack Demo toe. Make it parallel to bottom.
    2) Fill in voids with machinable epoxy where required.
    3) Position block vertically, front up. Use track to make jig of some sort
    4) Drill/mill a void in block between top and bottom.
    5) Epoxy into the void aluminum
    6) Clean up the front
    7) Drilll and tap holes for M5
    8) Go skiing
    Last edited by charlesj; 01-04-2021 at 12:48 PM.

  15. #140
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    Yeah I think at this point, you're trying to force a square peg into a round hole....

    I see this as trying to make a system comparable to cast, without the elegance of the cast system. You'd almost be better off ripping off their design at this point by sourcing some shoulder screws from McMaster, and milling out a replicable toe piece plate.

    There are definitely other ways to peel this puppy, but I think OPs original concept was simple and easy for most folks to do on their own.
    "Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds

    www.experiencedgear.net

  16. #141
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    yeah, it lacks the elegance, cost and uphill weight of Cast, but the square peg now fits. I'll let you know how it works

  17. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfconroy View Post
    Yeah I think at this point, you're trying to force a square peg into a round hole....

    I see this as trying to make a system comparable to cast, without the elegance of the cast system. You'd almost be better off ripping off their design at this point by sourcing some shoulder screws from McMaster, and milling out a replicable toe piece plate.

    There are definitely other ways to peel this puppy, but I think OPs original concept was simple and easy for most folks to do on their own.

    I re-read this, and definitely read more harsh than I had intended it.... I think the work on this thus far has been awesome, and as an engineer and tinkering I get pretty amped to see this stuff. So I definitely don't want to undercut effort like this at all.
    "Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds

    www.experiencedgear.net

  18. #143
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    Nice work to push through and complete the project! The grey is a JB Weld outer skin layer to clean up the appearance?

  19. #144
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    DIY Alpine Downhill + Tech Toe uphill touring binding

    Nothing says work in progress like gray primer. Most of what I added is regular epoxy with plastic dust. Some JB Weld where I tapped threads before going for stainless lock nuts. Looking forward to testing it out.

    I consolidated some posts above and figured out a much better, faster, cleaner way to do this, after spending waaay too much time doing it the clunky way:

    1) Chop off the top of Attack Demo toe. Make it parallel to bottom.
    2) Fill in voids with machinable epoxy where required.
    3) Position block vertically, front up. Use track to make jig of some sort
    4) Drill/mill a void in block between top and bottom.
    5) Epoxy into the void aluminum
    6) Clean up the front
    7) Drilll and tap holes for M5
    8) Attach tech toe
    9) Go skiing

    That would be the way I would do this if I was going to do it again

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    In other words chop it off below the dotted red line, fill some voids, then hollow out the blue area (stop before you hit the latch mechanism!) and insert the aluminum plate that is 44mm wide, 56mm long and 3mm(?) thick.

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    Version 2.0 in progress, not as easy* as I visualized... I’m making a second pair, possibly a better version of an as yet untested idea. Shaving first one down to make Version 3.0. It will include the base plate so crampons can be used, if i ever want to piss away more time.

    * it’s cold where the drill press is so I’m drilling by hand inside, whatevah

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    went back to version 1.0 and ground it down a lot and epoxied the base plate on top, first filling in some of the void under the base plate.

    Version 2.0 is still in the works, I did use a chunk of aluminum that was substantially thicker than what was needed.
    Last edited by charlesj; 02-02-2021 at 12:36 AM.

  20. #145
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    Nov 2006
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    135
    I was going to try this out, but decided to wait for this season.

    For anyone interested, I have some Attack 13 demos (basically new), a couple tech toes, and some Voile risers. PM me if interested - just looking to recover ~what I paid ($315 for everything).

  21. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by singlecross View Post
    Mounted my FrankenCAST setup this afternoon. All went as planned given his directions and some measure twice/cut or drill once protocol. I did wimp out and buy Voile splitboard heel risers instead of manufacturing my own.
    Really cool seeing someone else put this together. Glad its working for ya! Anyone else use this system last season?

    Quote Originally Posted by ntblanks View Post
    Toe track (w/screws): 163g

    Heel track (w/screws): 103g

    Heel piece: 484g

    Brake: (115mm): 165g
    Cool - first time seeing the weights.

    So its about 350g of total on-ski weight if you use a race tech toe, assume 40g for risers and cut off 50g of excess material. So comparable to the 350g class. Definitely lighter than Kingpin and Tecton or Vipec class.

    And about 1000g of on-ski weight for quick leave-the-heal-on laps, which is about 100g heavier than a Shift setup and comparable to CAST.
    Last edited by Lindahl; 07-08-2021 at 01:42 AM.

  22. #147
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    Bump, and updates on any of these setups?
    90% of skiing is just looking cool

  23. #148
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    Don't know why this product came up as a Google ad because I never search for anything related to snowboarding... but is this possibly the perfect binding for this mod?

    250g per pair, short mount pattern so your stride would be closer to where it would be with a normal tech toe, and includes the climbing risers.

    Edit: maybe this actually puts the pivot more forward now that I look at the OP again. Maybe still an interesting and relatively cheap option compared to race toes AND climbing risers?

    https://www.voile.com/voile-sts-tour...s%20I%20choose.

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    Last edited by Shorty_J; 12-05-2022 at 08:35 PM.
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  24. #149
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    Using the Duke PT12 toe would also be interesting.

  25. #150
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    I was planning on using the Voile pieces for my setup. I have some demo Attacks, but realistically, I think I'm going to break down and buy a CAST setup instead. My main concern is the demo tracks icing up. This is still an awesome idea.

    Really curious if there's more of these setups out there in the wild.

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