The FIFTY

[SUPERIOR]

Interesting skiing and celebrity guests for the Patriarch, Cody.

Super cool to see some more technical mountaineering too, but somehow this line just doesn’t seem very fun and straightforward.

Does it always require the couloir transfer? Or was it just not filled in last year?



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[yeahman]

I guess rewatching it would have been a good place to start, seeing as there’s a pretty good shot at his setup. I don’t know much about climbing gear, but wonder how much friction you really get with a tiny chord on a single line.





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I thought the same about lack of friction rapping on that small rope so I watched it again and noticed he was using a prusik knot as a backup. It was hard to spot but there is a quick glimpse.

[total_immortal]

Interesting skiing and celebrity guests for the Patriarch, Cody.

Super cool to see some more technical mountaineering too, but somehow this line just doesn’t seem very fun and straightforward.

Does it always require the couloir transfer? Or was it just not filled in last year?



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It always requires the transfer, or you ski it from the top and climb out. It was first skied by Kris Erickson and Hans Saari in memory of Alex Lowe, who cut his teeth in that range and completed many first descents. There are other more direct and straightforward lines in that range, but I'm guessing it's a classic because of its history and it's a pretty representative line for most of the technical skiing in the beartooths.

I always thought the book should have Whitetail Couloir instead of the Patriarch as it's widely recognized as one of the most classic lines in SW montana.

[jackstraw]

It always requires the transfer, or you ski it from the top and climb out. It was first skied by Kris Erickson and Hans Saari in memory of Alex Lowe, who cut his teeth in that range and completed many first descents. There are other more direct and straightforward lines in that range, but I'm guessing it's a classic because of its history and it's a pretty representative line for most of the technical skiing in the beartooths.

I always thought the book should have Whitetail Couloir instead of the Patriarch as it's widely recognized as one of the most classic lines in SW montana.

Interesting. It did seem odd to me as well that a transfer line would be listed as a "classic" but your intel makes sense.

[muted reborn]

The book explains exactly why that line was picked and what Kris Erickson thinks qualifies as a classic BC line vs classic mountaineering line.

[skizix]

The book explains exactly why that line was picked and what Kris Erickson thinks qualifies as a classic BC line vs classic mountaineering line.

I guess I'll have to take a look at the book someday. Because to my eye (ok, just from someone else's photo), the directissima next door, the Becky, looks like the obvious classic on Glacier Peak. What, not narrow enough for long enough (looks pretty freaking narrow at the top though)? Not dangerous enough? Curious.

[muted reborn]

I guess I'll have to take a look at the book someday. Because to my eye (ok, just from someone else's photo), the directissima next door, the Becky, looks like the obvious classic on Glacier Peak. What, not narrow enough for long enough (looks pretty freaking narrow at the top though)? Not dangerous enough? Curious.

https://www.50classicskidescents.com/purchase

[Alkasquawlik]

How did you manage to get enough friction on something so small? Super munter, or is there a belay/rappel device that works?


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Others have a keen eye and have noticed but a few things that add friction and make it easy to rap on such thin cord. The first, just extending the belay device out from your body puts far more bend in the rope which helps create the necessary friction to slow down. The second, yeah, I always back up my raps with Sterling Hollowblock, especially with cord this thin. Third, for not vertical, non-hanging raps, there is far less pressure on holding your grip and creating that friction.

To answer questions, nope, never got the Kidney function checked out...so all good!

For why this line is a classic, Kris explains it well in the book but I'm stoked this was a classic. It was a hairy, technical line. The book has a decent mix of easy and hard and I personally was really stoked to get one that had the steeps, exposure and technical aspects like this...along with being deep into the mountains. Plus, that north face of Glacier is an insane cirque. We couldn't capture it on film because getting a full landscape capture of the face would've required another couple hours of hiking but it was truly a foreboding, awe-inspiring chunk of granite.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Ra...me=Ski-touring

Edit to add:

Some cord apparently doesn't handle the heat of rappelling well (spectra?). And 6mm gets hung up and tangled more easily than 8mm, which another good reason to use a backup.

[Peyto]

The second, yeah, I always back up my raps with Sterling Hollowblock, especially with cord this thin.

Just picked up a rad line and have been trying to figure out the best way to back up something that thin - glad to hear the hollowblock holds as the cordalette options were... not confidence inspiring. Good tip on extending the belay device too.

As always, thanks for the stoke!

[Alkasquawlik]

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Ra...me=Ski-touring

Edit to add:

Some cord apparently doesn't handle the heat of rappelling well (spectra?). And 6mm gets hung up and tangled more easily than 8mm, which another good reason to use a backup.

Dynemma does not hold up to heat well for sure. I've seen some alarming tests but in order to build up the heat in the rappel device enough to weaken dyneema you need to be free hang rappelling with quite a bit of length, weight and speed. The Sterling VTX has a Poly sheath plus most ski raps are not vertical or long so for most ski situations, it's a decent option to reduce weight and still have a rap cord.

To answer Peyto's question, Sterling Hollowblock is the best $12 piece of equipment I've found. Love that thing and really does an excellent job adding enough friction even on the thinnest of cords. Oh and yeah, I've not extended the belay device and find it really tough with thin lines to create that bend to slow ya down. Had some sketchy feeling raps without it extended. To add more friction you can also throw in a second biner in the device and that helps create more bend too.

[snoboy]

We have been playing with skinny lines in our Mtn Rescue training as access and light rapid response type stuff. We found that the Beal Jammy seems to grip better than most on the Sterling TRC (5.5 mm hi-tech cord).

Haven't got any pull test numbers or anything to back that up yet - just user experience.

Also really interesting point about the extension and the braking angle. I hadn't thought about that.

[Eastern Sierra Skier]

Cody,

When's the last time you rode a chair? You ever just fire up a fatty and just go do some park laps anymore? That DV ride with Alec looked like an an ass kicker.

[thefrush]

Cody,

When's the last time you rode a chair? You ever just fire up a fatty and just go do some park laps anymore? That DV ride with Alec looked like an an ass kicker.

Pretty sure he's still riding in-bounds regularly. Have seen content from Alyeska & Squalisades.

[teamdirt]

Cody- thanks for all the stoke on the Fifty- looking forward to more. Quick question: what mounting point are you using on the Blanks with the MTN. +1.5?

I liked the feel of the +1.5/+2 on the 118 and want that same feel on the Blanks.

Thx!

[Alkasquawlik]

Cody- thanks for all the stoke on the Fifty- looking forward to more. Quick question: what mounting point are you using on the Blanks with the MTN. +1.5?

I liked the feel of the +1.5/+2 on the 118 and want that same feel on the Blanks.


Thx!

Yeah, +1 to +2 from the line not the Blanks is good. I went 3+ and like it but don't think they need to be as centered as the 118's do.

[powdork]

anticipatory bump. It's coming out at midnight rite?

[teamdirt]

Thx for the Response Cody! Very much appreciated!

[hoarhey]

releasing later today?

[doebedoe]

releasing later today?

It's up now.

[weibo]

Just watched, well worth it.

[hoarhey]

It's up now.

Yes, thanks!

[Supermoon]

So good. They didn’t go too far into it, but does Cody get to check that one off?

[Dantheman]

To answer questions, nope, never got the Kidney function checked out...so all good!

I hate to sound like your Mom, but you really should. Based on the events and your description of your symptoms (multiple days of dark/weird colored urine following heat stroke and serious physical exertion, took months to fully recover) you had a serious case of untreated rhabdomyolysis. Kidney damage does not present overt symptoms unless you are close to acute kidney failure and on the verge of death--you could have major kidney damage and <50% kidney function and not know it. A basic renal function panel is cheap and easy, it would be well worth getting to find out if you have any permanent kidney damage. Hopefully you're fine, but if you're not you need to know.

Just to drive the point home:

https://annalsofintensivecare.spring...613-020-0645-1
"Acute kidney injury (AKI) occurs in 19–58% of patients with rhabdomyolysis, depending on the diagnostic criteria of AKI and the severity of the rhabdomyolysis [6,7,8]
...
Ultimately, 8–65% of patients with rhabdomyolysis will require renal replacement therapy (RRT)."

[ptavv]

There's no reason to get your kidney function checked months after an episode of rhabdo.

Your kidneys either recover (fully) or you end up with acute kidney injury that requires medication and/or dialysis, the answer will be clear within a few days. Rhabdo causes progressive kidney issues, it doesn't just randomly crop up weeks or months later.

Moreover, the presence of creatine kinase and myoglobin (the muscle breakdown products, myoglobin is the one that turns your urine colors) isn't in and of itself a problem unless you are dehydrated at the same time that it's occurring.

This paper is cool showing that ultra runners in Greece had CK levels way way way way way above normal, and even some markers of liver cell injury, after running an ultra race, but everyone was fine with no end organ injury.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16775544/