Through some bizarre twist of fate, I have landed back in California after a 4-7 year hiatus. Graduated from kollidge in Socal in '98, worked for a few months in O.C. in '01, and BAM! here I am back again. Altho this time its inland, I'm still only a 2-3 hours from the coast, which is a LOT closer than Utah.
So I wanna buy a board! I was a total sponger in college (got pretty good at it), but when I moved to O.C. I got into surfing with all the other Powder kooks. I completely got hooked...so many similarities to skiing (difficulty/rewards). There, I bought a used 8'0" fun shape. It was a good board, but I definitely struggled with it. Since then, I've rented 9'0" long/fun type boards that I have no problem standing up on. They're almost too easy. I want something I can progress on but not spend months struggling with since I'll only have the spare weekend here and there at the coast. Kinda thinking something in between, like a short-ish 8'0-8'6 fun shape. Or should I just get a 9' longboard and wait to get better, then have more of a quiver with something shorty? (i've always thought fish looked cool)
Cuz I'm definitely still a kook out there, even though I know the water pretty well. I super struggle with paddling out on the big boards cuz I'm still used to just pushing a bodyboard under and duckdiving the waves. Turtling confounds me. Meh. Advice appreciated!
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