
Originally Posted by
adrenalated
10mm between holes for standard mounts.
That's an overly generous amount of room IMHO. In practice, this method will most often end up forcing the binding to be mounted way forward or way back from factory spec. And that is unacceptable.
15mm between holes for inserts.
You can actually get even CLOSER with inserts. I have literally put inserts so close to each other that the outer threads interlock. It's bomber.
Avoid having old holes in front of your toepiece if you are the type that breaks skis (I'm not and don't worry about it).
This is sound advice. But it's not as relevant with today's bigger (wider) skis built with better materials. I haven't seen many broken skis come through my shop at all in the last 15 years. Skis just don't break that much anymore.
If you are using the exact same bindings, and mounting the boot center at the exact some location on the ski, the old BSL will need to be at least 20mm larger or smaller to yield 10mm between holes.
(For example, old mount is for 300mm. New mount is for 320mm. Toe goes 10mm forward, heel goes 10mm back.)
This is a huge problem since most alpine bindings don't have 20mm of forward pressure adjustment range. It would suck to find out after you drilled (another set of holes) that the binding won't adjust to fit the boot.
Best way is always to overlay paper templates.
Indeed. But I've learned that getting really close to old screw holes is less important than how well the screw actually tightens down.
In other words, a screw isn't stripped until it is stripped. If it tightens down snug, then it doesn't matter how close it is to any old holes. Unless contaminated by water, 100% of binding screws strip during mounting, not during use. "Tight is tight" and that's all that really matters.... Even if it's overlapping an old hole plug. My method is to mount it right where it should be mounted, regardless of old screw holes, and then helicoil any spinners.
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