The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA

[phatboy64]

FWIW, I've adjusted mine with the afd touching the boot, and left it there. I had to wiggle it, just a little bit, to get the afd to settle, then I raise it back up to touching the boot.

...

But just to clarify the above couple of posts with regard to afd height:

1. You raise the afd until it's touching the boot sole, then raise it 1/4 turn more.

Or

2. You raise the afd until it's touching the boot sole, then lower it 1/4 turn.

I went back and double checked my setups just like above. Barely touch then a 1/4 turn.

Now for forward pressure. I have mine setup with the arrows pointing to the last 1/4 of the tab. so just a little past the middle. Is that the unofficial thought on where to set it?

[billyhoyle]

After reading almost all of this thread I'm a bit nervous to mount mine. Any trustworthy shops in the Denver area? Or a mag that would take a couple 6 packs to do it?

Have you mounted any bindings before? I was a bit nervous to do mine, but after playing around with them and the instructions it was really straightforward. I did a test mount and it was smooth sailing.

[kathleenturneroverdrive]

The mounting is a breeze. So easy. Just make sure you set the forward pressure and AFD correctly per the instructions in this thread.

[thatdkid]

FS Atomic Shift 13 110 Brake
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=332342

[Pacman922]

Have a pair of shifts with atomic hawx xtds. The AFD is touching the boot even on the lowest setting but i'm getting some slight clicking when moving back and forth (vertically, not horizontally) on one of the bindings. When i tighten the afd a couple of turns it stops the clicking, so should i get tighten until it stops clicking?

[Alkasquawlik]

Have a pair of shifts with atomic hawx xtds. The AFD is touching the boot even on the lowest setting but i'm getting some slight clicking when moving back and forth (vertically, not horizontally) on one of the bindings. When i tighten the afd a couple of turns it stops the clicking, so should i get tighten until it stops clicking?

Yes. Read above.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

Have a pair of shifts with atomic hawx xtds. The AFD is touching the boot even on the lowest setting but i'm getting some slight clicking when moving back and forth (vertically, not horizontally) on one of the bindings. When i tighten the afd a couple of turns it stops the clicking, so should i get tighten until it stops clicking?

Is it touching the rubber behind the flat section that should be touching the AFD? I trimmed some sole rubber with a razor blade to get a clean interface.

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[Gapergoon]

Have you mounted any bindings before? I was a bit nervous to do mine, but after playing around with them and the instructions it was really straightforward. I did a test mount and it was smooth sailing.

To be honest I haven't mounted my own setup before. Idk if I want to risk it, I don't exactly have the greatest tool or bench setup.

[Pacman922]

Yes. Read above.

The above says to tighten it until touching and then back it off a 1/4th of a turn, considering its already touching on lowest AFD setting that doesnt seem possible. I'll just keep it tight enough for the boot not cause clicking

[Alkasquawlik]

The above says to tighten it until touching and then back it off a 1/4th of a turn, considering its already touching on lowest AFD setting that doesnt seem possible. I'll just keep it tight enough for the boot not cause clicking

Yeah and that's what I along with others have stated in this thread that the directions don't match the real-world scenarios we've found out for ourselves. The directions suggest something that in my opinion doesn't work great. The reason for that, because I personally think for legal DIN cert reasons, they have to say that the 1/4 turn back off is the proper toe-height adjustment for releasability across all DIN cert bindings. It's an old rule in my opinion built for old school non-sliding AFD plates. But again, this is what I think and what others think, I truly have no idea why the directions say what they do nor have properly test the releasability of the way I and others adjust the toe-height.

[MegaStoke]

Yeah and that's what I along with others have stated in this thread that the directions don't match the real-world scenarios we've found out for ourselves. The directions suggest something that in my opinion doesn't work great. The reason for that, because I personally think for legal DIN cert reasons, they have to say that the 1/4 turn back off is the proper toe-height adjustment for releasability across all DIN cert bindings. It's an old rule in my opinion built for old school non-sliding AFD plates. But again, this is what I think and what others think, I truly have no idea why the directions say what they do nor have properly test the releasability of the way I and others adjust the toe-height.

I setup Shifts with the AFDs lightly touching the boot and they’ve always passed a torque test as such. I’m convinced the only reason mfgs spec a gap at all is to prevent shitty techs from setting the toe height so high the boot binds.

[jhyatt]

Sorry this might have been addressed in one of the 2386 posts in this thread... but I am thinking of shift for trips on an airplane where before I took an inbounds ski and a touring ski.
I will still take 2 pairs of boots. My touring boot (f80) has bsl of 305, inbounds boot (gpx130) has 315. If I mount in the middle at 310 will I get enough bsl adjustment? and how much time/pain in the ass would it be to adjust the bsl and afd height? I read it has 30mm of adjustment for BSL/forward pressure?
the other option is inserts and bring dynafits for touring.
the final option is the second pair of skis, the 'do nothing' option. but sorting out shifts or inserts lets me bring 2 pairs of skis that could be touring or inbounds.
thanks.

[SkiLyft]

Mount at 310 and you will be fine. I hate dicking with the afd as it usually takes a few runs to dial in but will get there eventually.

I have mine mounted with inserts for traveling and love nesting several skis together. But I bring one boot so I don’t have to mess with the afd. Double inserts would be best but I’d only do that if I was planning to tour >3-4K as the shift does that just fine.


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[HAB]

Pretty much what SkiLyft said. BSL adjustment is super easy and the range is considerable. The AFD is more annoying but it's almost certainly still faster than doing inserts and taking the whole damn binding off.

[Alkasquawlik]

I setup Shifts with the AFDs lightly touching the boot and they’ve always passed a torque test as such. I’m convinced the only reason mfgs spec a gap at all is to prevent shitty techs from setting the toe height so high the boot binds.

This could be true. I mean, I'm blown away how shitty some techs can be. I came across a mess of mis-adjusted Shifts in Australia this summer/winter. Obviously one shop did not know how to set the forward pressure and a few people there kept coming up to me and saying their Shift's were pre-releasing from the toe. I'd check their forward pressure, see it buried, and adjust them on-hill for people. I've seen it from a few others as well. The Shift's are sort of finicky and precise to fit, but when adjusted correctly they work. When adjusted incorrectly they're loose cannons.

[Dantheman]

I mainly ski on the MTN Lab. It's been my resort boot and 90% of my touring days boot. Though last year I started working the XAlp boot into my really big uphill days. I skied the XAlp on the Grand, Pyramid, North Maroon, Holy Cross and Wilson. Though I guess it was also determined in my head on which boot to choose by the down route as well. If I knew it was going to be a slow, methodical descent, then the XAlp would be fine. But if I knew the skiing could be fall-line and fast, then regardless of vert, I'd go with the MTN Lab--like on Meteorite and Pontoon. XAlp is definitely not a boot you want to open'er up with.

Do you ever ski a standard alpine boot any more? Both my alpine and touring boots are ready to be put out to pasture and the thought of replacing both with the S/LAB MTN sounds almost too good to be true. I'm no pro, but reliable sources assure me that I don't suck and I'd definitely regret giving up inbounds performance.

Preliminary plan is to go full-fanboi with a S/LAB MTN/Shift/QST 106 quiver-of-one inbounds/BC combo setup. One setup for everything has always been the dream....

[Alkasquawlik]

Do you ever ski a standard alpine boot any more? Both my alpine and touring boots are ready to be put out to pasture and the thought of replacing both with the S/LAB MTN sounds almost too good to be true. I'm no pro, but reliable sources assure me that I don't suck and I'd definitely regret giving up inbounds performance.

Preliminary plan is to go full-fanboi with a S/LAB MTN/Shift/QST 106 quiver-of-one inbounds/BC combo setup. One setup for everything has always been the dream....

Yup. Full time touring boot guy now. If you're used to race last and race style built boots, then it may be a harsh transition, but otherwise, I've found I can ski as hard as I want with a slight decreased level of feel and power with a touring boot in bounds. But all in all, the benefits of the skiing and adapting a touring boot to in bounds skiing with liner upgrades and potential mods outweighs the benefits of skiing in race style boots for me.

[Dantheman]

Not a race boot guy, I've just never found myself wishing my touring boots were compatible with Pivots. Have you posted about what liners/mods you're running?

[Jaxson]

On the AFD I adjusted it up to just touching on the boot sole then push it to see if it slides with a screwdriver. Seems to work and I do not see a need to back off a 1/4 turn.

[altacoup]

On the AFD I adjusted it up to just touching on the boot sole then push it to see if it slides with a screwdriver. Seems to work and I do not see a need to back off a 1/4 turn.

This is what I’ve done. Run my din settings one higher than normal. And results have been flawless. Brake had stayed up while skining. Weight of the binding makes kick turns a breeze, ski seems to stay level. For the wasatch, where most tours lack long approaches they’re awesome. Always hated the vague feel of pin bindings. Made it hard to work the ski front to back. Forced a more ski school side to side technique imo. For pow touring I’m 100 % sold. Pin bindings will always rule corn, really big days and ski mountaineering. I’d really like to try the MTN bindings. But the shift is pretty damn sweet in that it delivers what it says it will. Alpine performance with touring capabilities


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[jhyatt]

If shifts are mounted with a shop jig is the bsl set so the heel is dead nuts in the middle of the 30mm adjustment?

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[Spyderjon]

If shifts are mounted with a shop jig is the bsl set so the heel is dead nuts in the middle of the 30mm adjustment?

Nope. It'll mount the heel 3mm back from the middle of the adjustment range meaning you'll have 12mm of rearward travel left and you can go 18mm forward.

[jhyatt]

Nope. It'll mount the heel 3mm back from the middle of the adjustment range meaning you'll have 12mm of rearward travel left and you can go 18mm forward.

Thanks... I was hoping to have more rearward.

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[Spyderjon]

Thanks... I was hoping to have more rearward.

Set jig to length, drill toe holes, move jig rearward by as much offset as you want then drill heel holes. Simples!

[HukuTa_KydecHuk]

after another 15 days on shifts in japan I think I found a drawback. It only relates to upward release in toes: boot releases a lot easier than it should be, had 2 unwanted pre-releases at toes cranked to 11 din. Both happened in very similar situations. First - I took a lap into the park for first time and speed checked jumps, landed a bit short, hitting knuckle with tails of the ski which made me backseat and ended in toe release. Other release was at a terrain ridge, where I also landed short and had exact same release. Also worth mentioning that I was riding candide 5.0 which are fairly stiff so I think if I were on bentchetlers, for example, I would have been fine cause ski flex would compensate. However, with stiff skis, I guess I have to crank even more