Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[heckacali]

Also, toe in should be at the maximum in.
I do 1/8" at a 35" diameter distance with my alignment bars bolted to the hubs

[highangle]

I learned about caster in a Dino 308.


"Man, this wheel's a lot harder to turn than I thought it would be."

"Oh that's positive caster in the suspension, you get over 100 and it's perfect..."

[The Reverend Floater]

Thanks all...sure as shit seems like the culprit. Going to try out the LandTank correction plates for 2.5"-3" lifts and it should bring me to around 4*. I'll report back.

Doing caster correction shims on my 40 sure was a lot easier!

[The Reverend Floater]

Roses and thorns:

Rose: I don't have to worry about the caster for a while.
Thorn: Because the adapter from the tranny to t-case snapped like a Slim Jim.

#firstworldproblems

[John_B]

My buddy limped his 300k 07 Tacoma out of the woods on 5 cylinders due to a bad coil yesterday. We was swapping in new coils and plugs today and on the sixth plug snapped off a male fitting on the emission control solenoid. It's never easy. We've got the hose JB welded back on but he may be living with a CEL on for the rest of the trucks life if the JB weld doesnt work.

[warthog]

Sucked about 2.5 cups of shit flood water out of the front diff on the Bronco this evening.
It sat with brackish shit water up to about the bumper for about 2-3 hours on Sat early AM. Thanks Helene, you bitch.
No drain on the bottom of the Dana 44 TTB setup, so I snaked my hand pump hose to the bottom and pulled about 5 of the small cups worth of pure water.
Last one showed promising signs of oil finally. I kept going till I was pretty sure it was all gone, and filled it for the time being.

I plan on revisiting it tomorrow am and measuring the outside to the absolute bottom of the pumpkin. Then I am going to get a more rigid "straw" setup and mark that same depth and snake that in vertically. Then hook the pump hose to that and see if I get any more of that shit to come out.
Thankfully, oil being lighter than water "helps" in this situation, but makes it pretty tough to make sure I got it all.
Aside from taking the whole thing out and holding it upside down, you think I am on the right path?

Going to change all fluids tomorrow just to make sure. Other than that, what else is a worry? I know the noise of bearings going out, so we will keep an ear out for that. Axles? Breather tubes are all hooked up and shouldn't have let any water in. Any trick to diagnosing that?

My first flood. 0/10 Stars- DO NOT RECOMMEND.

[The Reverend Floater]

Sucked about 2.5 cups of shit flood water out of the front diff on the Bronco this evening.
It sat with brackish shit water up to about the bumper for about 2-3 hours on Sat early AM. Thanks Helene, you bitch.
No drain on the bottom of the Dana 44 TTB setup, so I snaked my hand pump hose to the bottom and pulled about 5 of the small cups worth of pure water.
Last one showed promising signs of oil finally. I kept going till I was pretty sure it was all gone, and filled it for the time being.

I plan on revisiting it tomorrow am and measuring the outside to the absolute bottom of the pumpkin. Then I am going to get a more rigid "straw" setup and mark that same depth and snake that in vertically. Then hook the pump hose to that and see if I get any more of that shit to come out.
Thankfully, oil being lighter than water "helps" in this situation, but makes it pretty tough to make sure I got it all.
Aside from taking the whole thing out and holding it upside down, you think I am on the right path?

Going to change all fluids tomorrow just to make sure. Other than that, what else is a worry? I know the noise of bearings going out, so we will keep an ear out for that. Axles? Breather tubes are all hooked up and shouldn't have let any water in. Any trick to diagnosing that?

My first flood. 0/10 Stars- DO NOT RECOMMEND.

This would make me nervous. Maybe keep the plug out and use a long compressed air nozzle to get in there? How about some sort of hand made vacuum straw taped to a shop vac? Or can you heat up the diff with a propane torch to try to evaporate it?

That sucks man.


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[gravitylover]

It's a Ford 9"? Doesn't that have a removable cover?

[MontuckyFried]

Sucked about 2.5 cups of shit flood water out of the front diff on the Bronco this evening.
It sat with brackish shit water up to about the bumper for about 2-3 hours on Sat early AM. Thanks Helene, you bitch.
No drain on the bottom of the Dana 44 TTB setup, so I snaked my hand pump hose to the bottom and pulled about 5 of the small cups worth of pure water.
Last one showed promising signs of oil finally. I kept going till I was pretty sure it was all gone, and filled it for the time being.

I plan on revisiting it tomorrow am and measuring the outside to the absolute bottom of the pumpkin. Then I am going to get a more rigid "straw" setup and mark that same depth and snake that in vertically. Then hook the pump hose to that and see if I get any more of that shit to come out.
Thankfully, oil being lighter than water "helps" in this situation, but makes it pretty tough to make sure I got it all.
Aside from taking the whole thing out and holding it upside down, you think I am on the right path?

Going to change all fluids tomorrow just to make sure. Other than that, what else is a worry? I know the noise of bearings going out, so we will keep an ear out for that. Axles? Breather tubes are all hooked up and shouldn't have let any water in. Any trick to diagnosing that?

My first flood. 0/10 Stars- DO NOT RECOMMEND.

Dammit! You poor guy. After all the work you've done too! Wish I was closer so I could help you out there. Good luck, man.

It's a Ford 9"? Doesn't that have a removable cover?

That honestly might be the best way to go to be sure! Especially with brackish floodwater, could be salts and other nastiness left in there. Taking off the cover would allow warthog to THOROUGHLY clean everything out. Then after resealing the housing and greasing everything up, should be good as new!

[tuco]

It's a Ford 9"? Doesn't that have a removable cover?

Ford went to 8.8(no removable pumpkin, the cover does come off) in the mid-80's
But WH is referring to his front axle

[gravitylover]

What genius thought an unmaintainable diff in an off road rig was a good idea?

[El Chupacabra]

What genius thought an unmaintainable diff in an off road rig was a good idea?

It's not un maintainable.

The front diff on the big Bronco is a Dana 44 twin traction beam, which has a cover plate of sorts - - it's basically removing half of the front axle housing. If that were mine, I'd disassemble and clean it out with brake cleaner.

The rear should be a Ford 8.8, with a traditional diff cover. I'd do the same open, clean, reseal, refill. Much easier than that TTB front end.

[tuco]

Yep, gotta take it apart

[gravitylover]

I had a 44 solid axle rear under my old Willys. I ran the vent tube way up into the right side wheel well to get it as high as possible. The front was a Dana 30 and that vented under the hood.

[highangle]

Warto - make sure you axle tube aren't carrying water.



I searched for D50 inner seals because I knew any replacement vid would show a Dana pumpkin real nice:

[warthog]

Seals and bearings were done very recently. Tranny, rear diff, and oil showed no signs of water, not change in levels, nice clean fluid.
I pumped a few pumps out with the straw from one of the millions of water bottles my kids have (my luck, I use their favorite straw). No signs of striation in the cup. I will be changing it again very soon with Amsoil, and will probably bite the bullet and take it off and really clean it. Starter was showing signs of corrosion, so that got removed and very thoroughly cleaned. I think we are alright here, but these things tend to be longer term problems.

The mass destruction going on in my house though, that is another story. Yikes.

Neighbor across the street lost a Tesla Plaid, Rivian R1T, Motor Home, and a Range Rover.
My drywall guy showed me pics of a pretty famous attorney's garage in Tampa- 3 Porches and a Ferrari. Porches up to their eyeballs in water. Ferrari on a lift high and dry. Italian over German every time.


Rough around here, but we are lucky compared to NC.

[m2711c]

time to rip the good engine and transmission out of the fucked up chassis so i can get this heap out of the driveway and into the junk yard afore the snow flies here on the tug hill...



toools of destruction ready to go.












good progresss made yesterday, hope to be dropping the transmission by the end of today...

[highangle]

Might make the whole job easier from here on in if you rolled that thing over on its side. heh

[m2711c]

you may be right...

[warthog]

Bronco made the 4.5 hour drive to Jax like a champ. Plan on drilling and tapping a drain hole on the D44 once I can. Changed the fluid, and git what I could out of it. Refilled, and tested with 1 pump the next day- no evidence of water in the sample. Plan on changing it out again up here in Jax, and then tapping the drain plug and refilling with Amsoil once I fully clean it out. Worst case, these are pretty easy to source at the junkyard here. Rear diff showed no signs of water, thankfully.

[uglymoney]

Front right brake caliper half frozen on the 03 4runner, which is why I have to install new pads, which brings me to the problem. This is routine for the brakes on this thing, So I order one of the new, new aftermarket calipers, from Rock Auto, Raybestos. The reman ones give you a couple three years of life and then die. We will try a different route. These look great.

Try to remove caliper from knuckle. Bottom bolt frozen. Much torching and lube, 2 days later it snaps. Shit. I've been down this road before. Must not have replaced the bolts soon enough, not the right mix of antiseize, caliper lasted too long, I need a real torch (not just propane) and a set of balls, but would rather break shit than burn my house down. Still, I might be going that route sooner than later.

Knuckle has to come off to get the broken bolt stud removed at machine shop. Spin bearing. Shit. That sounds a bit paper eee. Yikes. Can't leave that be. Order Koyo bearing already installed in hub from Ebay. Continue to remove knuckle. Sway bar link nut seems frozen. Exhaust reasonable removable options, go rambo style, grab other side of link with wrench and hammer the nut with my Milwaukee impact. It eventually spins free but I ruin the link when the rubber grease seal tears on my wrench. Order new Moog link $37. ABS sensor snaps off after i gingerly try to remove it for an hour. Order a new middle of the price range sensor from SMP $55.

Take knuckle to machine shop.

Koyo bearing is taking forever to ship from the S California parts bin. Decide to order a second bearing from Rock Auto so I can put this back together this weekend, Will have the bearing for the other side that way, it is definitely time, both of these are original with 235K, did the rears recently. Rock Auto Bearing (SKF) arrives without the seals of course. Today I run to Toyota for the proper O ring for the outer bearing to hub seal, 2 pair of caliper to knuckle bolts, and the local parts store for the inner hub seal from National. Kiss another $40 goodbye.

Picked up knuckle from machine shop today. They removed the old bearing/wheel hub (4 bolts that I didn't even try without a proper torch) and the broken bolt, abs sensor, cleaned and restored. Ready to put back together. $100 to the shop and he can't wait to do the other knuckle. OEM knuckles are $365 or so from discount Toyota dealers plus I'd still need to get my dust shield off or but a new one. Save $265 plus.

Ready to reassemble tomorrow.

See how a small job spirals completely out of control and you still end of spending less than a car payment on a bucketful of shiny new parts? Ha!

Salt though. And we barely drive this thing in the winter.

[east or bust]

Holy fuck that sounds miserable. lol



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[heckacali]

Every easy job is one stripped/broken bolt from an absolute nightmare

[Falcon3]

Front right brake caliper half frozen on the 03 4runner, which is why I have to install new pads, which brings me to the problem. This is routine for the brakes on this thing, So I order one of the new, new aftermarket calipers, from Rock Auto, Raybestos. The reman ones give you a couple three years of life and then die. We will try a different route. These look great.
.

If you've got the wheels for it (17"+) doing the 5th Gen brake swap upgrade was a game-changer on my 4th gen. I was chasing seized calipers on my '08 for several years, ended up having to do multiple frozen calipers multiple times, finally upgraded to the 5th gen rotors and calipers, and didn't have a problem for the next 5 years until I sold it.

[uglymoney]

If you've got the wheels for it (17"+) doing the 5th Gen brake swap upgrade was a game-changer on my 4th gen. I was chasing seized calipers on my '08 for several years, ended up having to do multiple frozen calipers multiple times, finally upgraded to the 5th gen rotors and calipers, and didn't have a problem for the next 5 years until I sold it.

Yeah, this one is a sport so it came stock with 17's and the bigger gen4 front brakes. Already swapped to gen5 TRD wheels. I will look into this. Thanks.