Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[jamal]

Now that I'm looking at fox looks like the 2.0 performance is pretty much a direct competitor to the 5100, and then they have a remote reservoir version too, and then a single adjustable, and a 2-way that costs $1200.

[shafty85]

Truck is an 06. Why must you show us these things? In no way do they help my bank account.

[bmg97]

I've got a problem with my 06 Durango 4.7 that I can't figure out that pretty much only happens when it's wet out. Driving along and all is well until bang, a violent buck/lurch and it shuts off. I pop it into neutral turn the key off and restart it and it's fine for a little while until the same thing happens again. Battery has been tested and it's fine, a little weak at 12.3 volts but otherwise seems to be ok. It doesn't have enough power though to test the alternator so I'm thinking the alternator has an issue but can't see where that would cause the buck and shutoff. There is a broken ground strap underneath that's either a body ground or goes up between the frame rail and body to somewhere nobody seems to be able to figure out. Possibly to the starter or battery? Would a bad ground to the starter cause the problem? It doesn't throw any codes and there's nothing stored in the computer to read so no help there.

Ideas? I'd love to figure this out so my wife feels comfortable driving the beast again.

Check the throttle position sensor or crank position sensor

[El Chupacabra]

I had Bilstein 5100s on a 4 Runner, in order to use the adjustments to level the front end. From what I remember, the 5100 was supposed to be valve differently from the 4600 version.

I like Bilstein shocks. I've put them on 3 different vehicles and been happy with the results. I just bought a set of F Sport labeled Bilsteins for my Lexus IS ( can't buy them branded as Bilsteins). I'll install them sometime later when it's warmer. They've got to be an improvement over the stock Tokico shocks, which manage to be both harsh and floaty somehow.

[jamal]

Sorry, fancy car parts is kind of my thing.

But it's under 300usd for a full set of 4600 or 5100s. 5160s are like 190 a piece though.

[basinbeater]

For sedans and sports cars, koni yellows are my favorite. Spectacular on the 944 turbo, and absolutely perfect on the e34 540i. Ymmv.
My experience with land cruisers is that kyb is a very good budget oem style shock, really quite nice around town (80 series, no lift) but could be a little firmer off road. The fox 2.0 on my previous 80 (ome medium 2.5" springs) felt firmer all around, better off road but were not harsh on the street. The kyb are smoother around town.
I hear icon makes a great shock for a little more $ than the fox. Fox also has a remote reservoir for substantially more $,as does icon.

[gravitylover]

Check the throttle position sensor or crank position sensor

Wouldn't that throw a code to tell me what's up?

[Gerome]

Uh, no, not really. The computer is sensing misfires beause the car is misfiring. Changing the ecu isn't going to change that and it's still going to hesitate and stutter and run like garbage even if it revs all the way to redline. And don't do that anyway. A race track is not the place to bring a car that is fucked and runs like shit. You'll be the guy that dumps a bunch of oil on the track and gets a whole session red flagged.

You can get a used replacement engine probably in as good or better condition for a couple hundred bucks. Maybe try that first.

Also, have you done a compression test? Is it blowing a shit ton of oil into the intercooler?

That's good info, I'll look at the intercooler, and do a compression test, but I doubt it because the intercooler is elevated above the engine. It doesn't run that terribly bad actually. The cheapest engines I've seen are about $1200 when I was considering continuing to drive the car, and that sounded like a crap-shoot for reliability. It's definitely too expensive to try out a couple of track days, although that means I shouldn't try racing in the long run. I could put the 2002 tires on the 2015 wrx, but I just don't want to thrash the new car on a race track. It's got to last at least a decade.


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[jamal]

The oil gets into your intercooler from the PCV system. With a poor ring seal, the excessive blowby is going to put a lot of oil into your intake. If that's occuring, there will be a good amount right at the outlet to the throttle body and in the TB coupler (and in the inlet and y-pipe and rest of the IC).

If there's not a bunch of oil there (you'll always get a light mist), then I would look at the coil packs. They're coming out to do the compression test anyway and they don't last forever. A guy I help out with rally stuff just had some misfire issues with his 02 wrx and the packs were basically falling apart. Might as well have some new plugs too. NGK iridium IX is the way to. BKR6EIX.

And actually you can't put the wheels from your 02 on the 15 wrx, well, unless they're aftermarket 17s and dual drilled for 5x100 and 5x114. WRX went to the STI hubs and bolt pattern finally and also has bigger brakes.

Any other questions you can email me if you want. peter at functionauto.com

[Mazderati]

And actually you can't put the wheels from your 02 on the wrx, well, unless they're aftermarket 17s and dual drilled for 5x100 and 5x114. WRX went to the STI hubs and bolt pattern finally and also has bigger brakes.

Any other questions you can email me if you want. peter at functionauto.com

Are you a StopTech dealer?

[jamal]

Are you a StopTech dealer?

Yes, although I have a hard time competing with places like rockauto, especially for like centric plain rotors.

[Gerome]

Yeah, I was thinking the blow-by would stress the PVC system, but didn't know how that would affect the engine in general. Funny side story, I had a 90' VW Corrado that fell apart. I sold it while it blew white smoke out the exhaust and it would lose brake fluid, but it still passed smog and wasn't a head gasket issue. Vacuum leaks developed between engine and brake master cylinder and the engine sucked brake fluid into combustion chamber.

Another funny story about the coil packs on the '02 WRX. I seem to have to re-learn to buy OEM electrical parts on occasion. I replaced the coil packs with aftermarket ones. One day, the engine appeared to run on two cylinders. I opened the hood to see glowing red turbo as a couple coil packs failed, so it dumped fuel into the exhaust that combusted near the turbo. So, it currently has new coil packs. Oh, actually, I forgot, a mechanic did a compression test on the car. He didn't charge me since he felt bad telling me the car was done because of poor compression. I don't remember what the compression results were.

[jamal]

Oh, well, yeah, in that case not much you can do short of a replacement shortblock. It's kind of a vicious circle- the low compression is causing misfires, and the extra blowby putting more oil through the intake is just making it worse. Plus, oil coating the inside of your intercooler is bad for cooling, and oil being burned drops the octane rating. So more likely to knock, makes even less power, runs hotter. Recipe for a rod through the block and/or blown headgaskets if you go push it on a track.

You could try adding a catch can/air oil separator. That might reduce the misfiring a bit since you're at least getting cleaner and cooler charge air.

[Gerome]

I drove that car occasionally pretty hard while the registration was still good so there's still a good chance it'll last a couple races. An air/oil separator sounds like a good idea. You gave me an idea too. How about I attach a large catch pan to the bottom of my engine bay to catch any oil or radiator fluid if the engine does decide to pop!

[Bosco]

I've got a problem with my 06 Durango 4.7 that I can't figure out that pretty much only happens when it's wet out. Driving along and all is well until bang, a violent buck/lurch and it shuts off. I pop it into neutral turn the key off and restart it and it's fine for a little while until the same thing happens again. Battery has been tested and it's fine, a little weak at 12.3 volts but otherwise seems to be ok. It doesn't have enough power though to test the alternator so I'm thinking the alternator has an issue but can't see where that would cause the buck and shutoff. There is a broken ground strap underneath that's either a body ground or goes up between the frame rail and body to somewhere nobody seems to be able to figure out. Possibly to the starter or battery? Would a bad ground to the starter cause the problem? It doesn't throw any codes and there's nothing stored in the computer to read so no help there.

Ideas? I'd love to figure this out so my wife feels comfortable driving the beast again.

My dodge ram did the same thing when the battery was a little weak. Internet search confirmed this for my vehicle.

[gravitylover]

My dodge ram did the same thing when the battery was a little weak. Internet search confirmed this for my vehicle.

Yeah last time the battery needed to be replaced it did some strange things but not this. Maybe I'll throw a new one in and see what happens. What's the worst that happens, I spent $125 to replace a proven weak battery and still need to do more. I'd sure love to figure out what's up with that ground wire though. I think the dry day tomorrow means it's time to spend some time crawling around under there with a good light and get it figured out.

[basinbeater]

Well, it's been a while, but I stripped a tough to reach hex valve cover bolt. I have some good ideas to get it out, but most of them involve being able to hammer a torx or cheese head bit into it, and I'm not really going to be able to hammer anything into it because of where it it located. Fuck. I'm not going in there tonight.

[Norseman]

weld an allen key to it?

[Norseman]

also, I owe a huge "THANK YOU" to jamal for helping me out with my recent subie 2.2T rebuild. Dude went out of his way to help me find proper part numbers and gave experienced suggestions for machining clearances. I purchased some aftermarket bits from his business (rods, pistons, bearings) and was very satisfied with experience.

The motor is broken in now and I've been having so much fun tearing around in the lil battle wagon. Half shitbox, half awd turbo zoomer!

Thanks jamal. I'll put up some pics after I do the brakes... (so maybe this summer ;0)

[basinbeater]

Cause the breaks will make it look so much nicer. Good work.
So what you are saying is, this is my opportunity to justify a welder? There is a fuel line right near by... I guess that can be removed... Fuck. I hate stripping bolts.

[jamal]

also, I owe a huge "THANK YOU" to jamal for helping me out with my recent subie 2.2T rebuild. Dude went out of his way to help me find proper part numbers and gave experienced suggestions for machining clearances. I purchased some aftermarket bits from his business (rods, pistons, bearings) and was very satisfied with experience.

The motor is broken in now and I've been having so much fun tearing around in the lil battle wagon. Half shitbox, half awd turbo zoomer!

Thanks jamal. I'll put up some pics after I do the brakes... (so maybe this summer ;0)

You're welcome, I'm glad it all worked out and is running well.

Oh, and fun story- I've been working on my own compression ratio calculator for subarus and threw in the info for the 22t. The wisecos were definitely a better choice over the JEs based on the numbers I'm getting for quench height and CR.

[Norseman]

Cause the breaks will make it look so much nicer. Good work.
So what you are saying is, this is my opportunity to justify a welder? There is a fuel line right near by... I guess that can be removed... Fuck. I hate stripping bolts.

Get the welder and don't look back.

You're welcome, I'm glad it all worked out and is running well.

Oh, and fun story- I've been working on my own compression ratio calculator for subarus and threw in the info for the 22t. The wisecos were definitely a better choice over the JEs based on the numbers I'm getting for quench height and CR.

Mind sharing these numbers?

[uglymoney]

Replaced the Chinese axles on the old Outback with Subaru axles today. One of the outside boots was apparently completely full of water causing intermittent loud vibrations. I am done with parts store axles on all my cars (Yotas and Suba's)

Rebooted and regreased an original axle I had on the shelf with a Subaru boot and ordered in a Subaru remanufactured axle. I had one replaced on a trip and lost the core when the Subaru dealer in JH put in a Chinese axle.

Good as new now.

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[Obstruction]

Replaced the Chinese axles on the old Outback with Subaru axles today. One of the outside boots was apparently completely full of water causing intermittent loud vibrations. I am done with parts store axles on all my cars (Yotas and Subies) ....
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I'll give you an amen on the Subie axles v. After market. My 07 outback went through what seemed like an axle every 20k miles until I went with the genuine article. Been nice and quiet for a long time since (except for the rattle-ass heat shields).

[uglymoney]

I'll give you an amen on the Subie axles v. After market. My 07 outback went through what seemed like an axle every 20k miles until I went with the genuine article. Been nice and quiet for a long time since (except for the rattle-ass heat shields).

You tubes has the boot change videos. Super easy job. If it takes you more than 20 minutes you're just playing with the shaft. Laughable that some peeps in various forums complain it took them half the day. Surprised I haven't done it before considering I have tackled much more difficult projects. That is the ticket when the inner boot cracks...replace boot with oem and regrease....done.

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