A few friends used them and complained about it restricting movement. It makes your lower cuff higher which will restrict rear ROM if your buckles are done up at all, and would always restrict forward ROM. A lot? Probably not.
I’ve made similar pieces but the long side is done and attached to your instep buckle and the top only goes as high as the stock lower shell. The person was happy with it and said it didn’t hurt the walk mode. It offer a lot of stiffness by restricting the lower from bellowing.
It’s in a thread somewhere.
I broke 3 pairs of those standard, non flexible bootboards, the first 2 while skiing and the third one because I was trying to grind down the lift under the heel since I wanted a flatter position. I later learned that if you wanna take out some material from that "zeppa" (italian term for bootboards which funnily enough also refers to the elegant platform sandals worn by ladies) under the heel it is better to do so on the side which touches your foot rather than the opposite one where the lift is. Ever since I've done that I've had no problems whatsoever, not even cracks or other signs of weakening. I've learned my lesson.
I also have some flexible, PU plastic (I guess) ones from some old full tilt boots which I keep in case I end up breaking them again. Didn't knnow about the shockstopper ones though, I'll chek em out. Thanks Matt!
Anyone know how much increase in height across the top of my foot (near the buckle closest to the cuff) I can expect from molding the Hawx? Picked up a pair on a whim and everything but (unsurprisingly) the that height feels great. I didn't mold the liner but threw in an older liner I have that's been pretty well-worn to get an idea on what to expect.
I probably need a couple mm of space to get some relief but don't want to mold them if I can't expect to get that relief.
Last edited by nyskirat; 12-21-2022 at 12:09 PM.
For Sale:
If you're in the Northeast and would like to borrow some Jigarex Plates I have:
Rossi/Look plates
Salomon Warden 13 plates
Marker Kingpin Plates
pretty stupid question maybe but can forward lean be actually decreased by moving around/unscrewing those t-nuts next to the walk mode?
I have seen that Sage video on YT where he refers to getting "more or less" FL through that adjusting process but delving into the topic a bit more I only see info on increasing it.
In the meantime I'll just try ditching the spoiler for a bit, maybe it's enough for me
Yes, there is a metal "flip chip" that the walk mode bolts go through which can be flipped to adjust forward lean. You can also order an aftermarket version from an atomic dealer that has less forward lean than the stock one.
https://www.skitalk.com/attachments/...b-jpeg.173249/
Good to know. I'm not exactly sure how much I'll need (never measured, not even sure how to go about that) but want to make sure I'm not shooting myself in the foot by trying this boot when I know the Dalbello Krypton will likely fit w/ minimal issues as my Lupo's are money.
For Sale:
If you're in the Northeast and would like to borrow some Jigarex Plates I have:
Rossi/Look plates
Salomon Warden 13 plates
Marker Kingpin Plates
Anyone seeing excessive wear on the toe and heel lugs of these boots? Mine are already dented and kinda mangled in several spots after just 1 season...not giving me faith that this boot will last long.
Has walk mode been improved at all since the very first model? Thinking of ROM and resistance to movement. Kicking around getting some new boots maybe next year with the new boa system.
"High risers are for people with fused ankles, jongs and dudes who are too fat to see their dick or touch their toes.
Prove me wrong."
-I've seen black diamonds!
throughpolarizedeyes.com
I guess the XTD walk mode can't hold up to the stresses of a season of hucking (approx cumulative). Stripped the lower screw on the walk mode yesterday on landing. At least I could still ski it, but time to look for a different 1500g boot.
I normally ski my Cochises in the sidecountry for heavy hucks, and that walk mode lasts 3 seasons with the repeated abuse. But I hadn't gotten work done on my new pair yet so was skiing the Hawx.
Last edited by Lindahl; 01-08-2023 at 10:12 PM.
has anyone skied both the new PU and old Grilamid verisons of prime XTD to compare stiffness/feel?
I have
Here's my 0.02€ - PU (and even our True Flex PU, which is what this lower shell is) will feel slightly softer at room temp than PA. PA is very springy and stiff from the get go, so your first impression in store or at home will be that the latest Hawx Prime XTD 130 in PU will feel a bit softer than the PA version of previous years. But this will not translate to a softer or less powerful or less damp boot on snow, in fact it's quite the opposite. Sage & McNutt both prefer the PU version for this reason, they think it's a big improvement.
My 1st year xtd ultra 130s need new liners. All the intuition tour options have a foam sole which I think will take up too much instep height. What’s my best bet? These are touring only boots for me, I have alpine hawx for lifts so would err on the lighter and better uphill side of the spectrum.
I managed to effectively wear out my 21/22 XTD liners in a season and bought a La Sportiva Vanguard liner off of gear trade which I've been fairly happy with so far (maybe a dozen touring days). Uses Ultralon foam.
Didn't notice much instep height pressure changes but the Vanguard liner was significantly bulkier laterally which caused me some pressure issues on the outsides of my feet (width). Fabbing some pads and spot heating fixed that though.
I don’t know if I would call my instep extremely high but I have a low volume fit in these boots and have to use them with super thin insoles. I has able to get a bit of extra space in my alpine hawx heat mold but less in the touring version. I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t be able to use a footbed with the 6mm foam underfoot on the intuitions. The newer atomic liners might work if they are available. It is hard to find any reliable info on liners
Hey everyone - new forum member here. I recently purchased the Hawx boot and have paired them with a hybrid Black Crow ski. I'm generally happy with the setup which I use 60% resort 40% touring. But, the tongue on the liner is really bruising my upper inside ankle shin area. Before skiing the boots, I had the boots and liner heat molded (separately heated but in the same session) and they felt great. But I now know after three days of skiing that major changes are needed! The liner has a hard plastic wrap on the tongue area which I have not seen before and that seems to be the source of the problem.
I'm in MA and am looking for a professional boot fitter to work to get the issue resolved. Anyone have a recommendations or experience with this issue?
Or what about removing the hard plastic on the tongue...my fear being that it's not too rigid underneath the plastic so maybe that will mess with the integrity of the liner..??
Thanks for helping the newbie!
The folks in the boot fitting thread should be able to provide recommendations or maybe even some easy DIY fixes.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=137151
[QUOTE=whereiscarlos;6778592]The folks in the boot fitting thread should be able to provide recommendations or maybe even some easy DIY fixes.
Thanks I will head over there!
i was looking for a cheap (probably used) pair of alpine boots to use whenever i ski lifts. Intend to use such pair with my (old version) BentChet 120 with alpine binders.
I did plan to get some Ultra S but I've missed all the good deals.
My feet love the Ultra XTDs (a bit too much space in the toebox tbh) so I was wondering what some of you guys with feet similar to mine are using as a more rugged, no-frills resort boot (no need for gripwalk soles btw).
Anyone using redster CS? Other alternatives?
I have worked in a shop so I've had the chance to borrow/try out a wide range of boots for short days/runs (everything from Redster Pros to FT Tom Wallisch). Don't wanna splash too much cash though cause these days XTDs get used 90% of my season.
Thanks
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