P18 Pivot FKS forward pressure - ignore the indicator?

[bearcub69]

its been said before in this thread but ill say it again

there are three marked rings on the arms.. you should be in/on/near the middle ring if your bindings were mounted to your proper BSL.. but as others have said, every pivot is different and you might be closer to the other rings.. especially if you change out boots/BSLs and have to adjust

the indicator tab can work.. but don't solely rely on it. to get the indicator to work, every time you take your boot out when doing a forward pressure adjustment, turn the heel piece 90 degrees or at least far enough that you are taking pressure off the indicator so that it can slide forward and "reset" itself. this is crucial for making sure your indicator has a chance of working

another decent benchmark/starting point is making sure the heel of your boot completely covers the heel "tab" of the dildo and at least slightly touches up against the heel cup of the dildo where you are stepping into

when your boot is in always grab your dildo and wiggle it around.. if it wiggles rather easily your fp is too loose.

I also think that all of us should be greasing these things up more than we are.. but I have never greased mine. maybe someone who knows what theyre doing could put a greasing video together

[Wes Mantooth]

I also think that all of us should be greasing these things up more than we are.. but I have never greased mine. maybe someone who knows what theyre doing could put a greasing video together

There’s a thread here where gwat gives a rundown. Toes are extremely easy and intuitive, heels are rough


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[gwat]

I also think that all of us should be greasing these things up more than we are.. but I have never greased mine. maybe someone who knows what theyre doing could put a greasing video together

Some grease talk here:
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...est-way-to-fix
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...p-(metal-toes)

when your boot is in always grab your dildo and wiggle it around.. if it wiggles rather easily your fp is too loose.

I feel like I'm starting to sound like XXXer and his bamboo skewers but....
The brake is the indicator! It is as black and white as the indicator line on any other binding.

[bearcub69]

Some grease talk here:
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...est-way-to-fix
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...p-(metal-toes)


I feel like I'm starting to sound like XXXer and his bamboo skewers but....
The brake is the indicator! It is as black and white as the indicator line on any other binding.

thanks for chiming in w the grease

mind elaborating on the brake being the indicator? ive never heard that before.. maybe I missed it in this thread.. not saying you're wrong. curious and want to know more

[XXX-er]

I suggested bamboo for plugging old holes if you ain't got plastic plugs, a hack that worked for me on a dark and stormy night, I have never suggested anyone should put a screw in a piece of bamboo but I am sure they do

From now on When people ask the same question for the millionth time I will tell them " PM gwat " that or PM skifishbum

[Core Shot]

Some grease talk here:
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...est-way-to-fix
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...p-(metal-toes)


I feel like I'm starting to sound like XXXer and his bamboo skewers but....
The brake is the indicator! It is as black and white as the indicator line on any other binding.

On the grease. Didn’t read the other threads. But I’m sure I posted there. Most bindings are white lithium which is too water soluble for me.
I like bike lube. Plastic safe. And more water resistant.
Phil woods is still made. But there are others.

Ironically I just pulled a set of markers to remount. The worm track was brutally dry. Not that that matters. But for pivots the toe has an inside ball that needs to pivot. These bindings can last forever. But if you need reliable release values there needs to be lube. Yeah we can argue about spring fatty gay. Not sure about that. Haven’t reduced din for the summer. Bindings still work. But without lube the release is sus.

[gaijin]

Thanks for all the advice, guys.

I played around with forward pressure by backing the arms screws off past the 3rd ring and then back to super tight and never found a place where the dildo wouldn't fluctuate.

Finally, I just set it so the heel of my boot touches the heel cup and accepted that that's where my forward pressure is supposed to be. Still loose. So I cranked the din... which is a fallacy because that spring was wayyy too easy to tighten. "There is no way this is a nine, or a ten, or an eleven, or a twelve." At twelve it finally (kinda) matches my other heel's 9.

I'm wondering if because this thing sat in a closet for 20 years that the steel got brittle? In the shop when we mounted it, and tested it, it seemed fine. But maybe after a couple of morning of being flexed in the cold I cracked a spring and that's why I noticed it later?

I don't know. One way to find out-- take it apart. What am I in store for?

Either way, at 12 it "feels" like an 8-9 with my hand opening and closing it. Yay-- Science!

But the good news is it did get harder to tighten as I raised the din... so maybe it's not cracked after all. Is it possible for the DIN indicator to somehow separate from the spring?

This month's skiing is pretty mellow stuff, so we'll see how this problem progresses.

[Mustonen]

The dildo should snap erect briskly and cleanly when the boot is inserted, both sides should look and feel roughly the same when snapping in, and there should be no play when you’re riding the chairlift and twist your skis back and forth like an 8 year old. Sounds more like not enough FP to me, but could be either.

[gaijin]

Thanks, Mustonen. As I assumed.

The only way for me to get this particular heel to snap is to raise the DIN.

It only snaps at 12+.

And it feels too easy to turn the DIN.

I’m wondering if it’s stripped. So while the DIN indicator is moving forward, the pressure actually isn’t.

I’ll ski a stripped heel until it becomes a problem, but— kinda unfun now. I was amped on my nostalgic approach.




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[Core Shot]

They’re not hard to break down and inspect the spring and relube.

20 years is a long time. I suppose the spring could sag after 20 years under tension. I know some people turn din down for the summer. I never have.

Then again I had two cracked springs on my car last year. wtf. That never happened in my life. Anecdotal. But weird

PS. If the din indicator is moving it’s showing the thread screwing in. But if the spring is compromised you’re not getting din anymore

PPS. Lots of folks say you can increase din on pivots since the heel pivots and there is some upward release on the toe

[Mustonen]

I skied a pair of old ZRs until just a couple years ago. Had to replace a few parts over the years but generally they were bomber. Eventually just didn’t seem worth it to keep rolling the dice.

That said, if you’ve got a bum dildo all you have to do is screw a new one on to the heel/brake assembly. I’ve got a few hanging around (including the ZRs) for just that eventuality. If I’ve got some the same vintage I’d happily send them your way.

[SnowMachine]

In the gun world we discuss springs a lot. Mainly magazine springs. The consensus is that springs do not wear from being static, but rather that they wear from travel. I know people back their bindings down over the summer. I never have, but I also don't keep bindings for that long. I would be surprised if that spring got soft. Less surprised if it broke. Take it apart and inspect it.

[Mustonen]

This discussion precipitated a brief dive down the rabbit hole of spring creep vs spring fatigue. Now that I’m an expert on the matter, I shall opine here: backing off a binding would typically be to guard against creep. Unlikely to be necessary unless the spring is subjected to high heat or other stressors causing slow deformity. Fatigue would be induced by a high cycle rate causing small fractures that eventually lead to breakage and failure, also unlikely under ideal conditions but more likely than creep. An older binding would probably be subject to corrosion, however, increasing likelihood of both but particularly fatigue. I concur that a broken spring is a likely culprit.