Fritschi Tecton

[grinch]

I added the demo plates to the toes, to solve a hole conflict issue, that were probably thicker than 5mm. I prefered the added height over stock but i think i'd like the demo toe to be thinner. 5mm , i think , would be better

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[soupcan66]

The material I got my hands on is 4.7mm thick according to the calipers going to drill some holes today next piece is sourcing some screws. Looks like skimo recommends a 20.3mm pan screws. Will report back once completed.

[ticketchecker]

The material I got my hands on is 4.7mm thick according to the calipers going to drill some holes today next piece is sourcing some screws. Looks like skimo recommends a 20.3mm pan screws. Will report back once completed.

And they don’t sell that screw, unless I’m missing something on their site


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[grinch]

It should be pretty ez to cut a screw to length. If need be you could tap the initial threads with any regular self tapping screw(pretty much every binding screw is a self tapper these days). I mounted mine with inserts. I think they ended up being 16mm screws. The same as my ions with riser plate. I may have cut a couple mils off though

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[ticketchecker]

The challenge was finding any pan head long enough, at least from any binding parts sources. SS hardware at the local marine store may be my next stop


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[grinch]

It should be pretty ez to cut a screw to length. If need be you could tap the initial threads with any regular self tapping screw(pretty much every binding screw is a self tapper these days). I mounted mine with inserts. I think they ended up being 16mm screws. The same as my ions with riser plate. I may have cut a couple mils off though

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Ah yes, copy that, sorry. I mighf be mistaken but i thought i used posi lowheads when i used inserts, in which case solomon sth heel screws , for non inserts, should be long enough. Binding freedom dont even sell pan heads these days



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[~mikey b]

see what SlideWright or Tognar has

maybe message spyderjon - he’s a master at this sorta stuff

[Cocximus]

You can find SS M5 hex screws on Amazon.

[singlesline]

Also curious if anyone finds a source for longer screws. I'd like to try shimming my Xenic toes (which have an even worse delta) and have the same issue.

I suppose the backup plan is to figure out how to install inserts so I can just use machine screws, but I'm not entirely confident in my ability to redrill the insert holes in the right spot since it sounds like they need to be spot-on and my original toe holes are slightly off (had to put a boot in the binding and torque it a bit while tightening up to get the heel pins to line up).

[AlpiNord]

The challenge was finding any pan head long enough, at least from any binding parts sources. SS hardware at the local marine store may be my next stop

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Have you measured so you know the actual screw length you need?

For alpine pan head screws we have 18 & 28mm. The 28mm screws can be cut, but the thread length is limited. When people want to adjust thickness for shims or cants, I think you are better off simply installing inserts, then you have unlimited choices of screw types and lengths. Otherwise you will be limited in available alpine screw lengths.

[ticketchecker]

Trying to avoid inserts on this trial, was hoping to do a quick test of the toe shim to gauge the difference. Ordered some screws with the shims which won’t work. Been too busy to deal with it further.


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[~mikey b]

go for it

[grinch]

My last shims i bought from skimo co and they came with screws. Maybe they have just the screws? Theyre good with emails

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[soupcan66]

Found 4x 28mm screws and 4x 26mm screws at a local shop. They all need to be turned down anyways so figured it didn’t make much of a difference. I should have them done by tomorrow and I’ll share. Going to leave about 1 or 2 mm of extra below the binding to prevent from causing any weird point loading but the holes are drilled and now it is just fine tuning on the belt sander.

[ticketchecker]

Glad I checked in this thread, motivating me to finish the shim test project.


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[soupcan66]

finished them up today. 4.7mm of toe lift. A hair rough around the edges but it should be good! Was a hair nervous about using the same holes but seemed to be good and they held torque! The just shim photo was pre finishing.

[Norseman]

Some brake arm measurements taken on a Tecton heel, measured from the inside of the tips of the plastic ends. Might help folks figure out what they actually have, and what ski width the brake will fit.

---------- Unmounted Arm -------- Tips at ---------- Tips Fully
---------------- (tip to tip) ------------Topsheet -------- Deployed

90 ------------- 135 ------------------- 91 ------------------ 110
100 ------------ 152 ----------------- 102 ----------------- 122
110 ------------- 157 ----------------- 108 ----------------- 130
120 ------------ 170 ----------------- 130 ----------------- 147


Some details:

• There seems to have been some brakes labeled "115mm" in 2017 that were actually 110mm brake arms.
  
  
• Any of the brake arms can fit skis about 8mm wider than the "Tips at Topsheet" measurement if you grind off the inner points of the plastic brake arm ends a bit. (With the brakes mounted, move the brakes from stowed to deployed to see where they need to be ground to clear the topsheets.) If you do a heavier grind, you could go an additional 10mm or so. So with a moderate inner tip grind, "90" brakes could probably fit 101mm width ski, "100" brakes could fit a 112mm ski, "110" brakes could fit a 118mm ski, and "130" brakes could fit a 140mm ski. This is without even bending the brake arms.
  
  
• Interestingly, the "115" (110) and 120 brake arms are the same from the middle to the first bend, and a more shallow bend angle (followed by a tighter outer bend) is what makes the 120 wider. Adjusting the ~45 degree bend angles in a vise should be a lot easier than modifying alpine brakes with 90 degree bends, since you can play with minor changes to the two existing bends instead of completely relocating full 90 degree bends.

Dug up this quality old post.

Do these measurements still hold for the newer Tecton 13?

[grinch]

finished them up today. 4.7mm of toe lift. A hair rough around the edges but it should be good! Was a hair nervous about using the same holes but seemed to be good and they held torque! The just shim photo was pre finishing.

Another great thing about brands like on3p and praxis. Quality cores hold screws well and you can feel it putting the initial screws in. Nice to have that confidence

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[Dan816]

Also curious if anyone finds a source for longer screws. I'd like to try shimming my Xenic toes (which have an even worse delta) and have the same issue.

I suppose the backup plan is to figure out how to install inserts so I can just use machine screws, but I'm not entirely confident in my ability to redrill the insert holes in the right spot since it sounds like they need to be spot-on and my original toe holes are slightly off (had to put a boot in the binding and torque it a bit while tightening up to get the heel pins to line up).

Redrilling the insert holes if you've already got the proper holes drilled is the easy part. I've found that inserts have a bit of wiggle room so the torque ing maneuver you did with your original mount also works well with inserts. Fear not.

[Dan816]

I got out on my new tecton 13s today and pre-released on my 4th turn. I figured I stepped in poorly, but then found that there was broken plastic piece in the toe, just below the pins. Here's a pic of a normal toe.

Here's the broken toe (see just below pin)


Is this common? Replaceable? Let me know if you've got experience with this issue. Thanks.

[RAB3]

I had that exact same piece break off of one of mine. It seemed to function just fine with it broken it just didn’t spring out by itself when stepping in. Black Diamond was great and sent me a new toe piece.

[kid-kapow]

finished them up today. 4.7mm of toe lift. A hair rough around the edges but it should be good! Was a hair nervous about using the same holes but seemed to be good and they held torque! The just shim photo was pre finishing.

wait, what - you shimmed the toes on a Tecton?

I've found the delta to be 3mm lower (lower heels) on tectons compared to castified pivots with my Lange XT3s, making them hard to ski for me.

GW Pivots are 4 or 5mm higher in the front than say STH2s. I would have added a shim under the heel to get them flatter / more similar to pivots, not raised the toes even more.

Adding 4.7mm would make the delta 7.7mm compared to castified Pivots, causing a huge difference in angles, like >20 degrees - aka instant back seat skiing for me. Aka tech race binding type delta here.

Cool that you set it up to make them work for you though

[MagnificentUnicorn]

How would decreasing delta make you instantly backseat? It makes no sense. I get that get that people get backseat on bindings that have high delta angle but don’t understand how a flatter delta puts you backseat


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[~mikey b]

hell I don’t even know that I can feel the ramp angle but I’m a beater and I just ski

[kid-kapow]

How would decreasing delta make you instantly backseat? It makes no sense. I get that get that people get backseat on bindings that have high delta angle but don’t understand how a flatter delta puts you backseat

first, I wouldn't generalize what happens to me to all skiers. I couldn't ski tectons for the life of me last year after having grown used to xt3 12 degrees boots + castified pivots delta.

secondly, yeah - it perhaps makes more sense with too high delta. Though, if you drop the heels you'll also shift the center of gravity rearwards, so it makes sense in that way too.

Anyway, I did not mean to spark a delta debate here - I was just really surprised at somebody shimming vipecs as much as 5mm up front. Good on you if it works for you. I guess they end up like Marker Alpinists or some such, and lots of people enjoy those.