Anyone have anything they'd like to rant about?

[jackstraw]

LBS could not remove my caliper bolt. Titanium bolt with factory Loctite. Which apparently is not supposed to have Loctite.

So claim submitted to SC. Rear triangle was offered and they stated that they don't use Loctite. But the bolts they provided were covered in Loctite! Of course, I have no proof of that except it looks like a factory job and the lbs guys even said so as well. Now I'm asking for labor to swap the triangle out. If they agree I'll be happy, but this is quite annoying for a high end build that I just bought in July.

[Roxtar]

LBS could not remove my caliper bolt. Titanium bolt with factory Loctite. Which apparently is not supposed to have Loctite.

So claim submitted to SC. Rear triangle was offered and they stated that they don't use Loctite. But the bolts they provided were covered in Loctite! Of course, I have no proof of that except it looks like a factory job and the lbs guys even said so as well. Now I'm asking for labor to swap the triangle out. If they agree I'll be happy, but this is quite annoying for a high end build that I just bought in July.

Yeah, that's definitely on them.
1st: Titanium caliper bolts? Really?
2nd: Loctite on any caliper bolt, especially titanium?

These aren't rotor bolts that rarely get removed. Caliper bolts get removed every bleed, every adjustment.
Just screams WHY?!

[toast2266]

Yeah, that's definitely on them.
1st: Titanium caliper bolts? Really?
2nd: Loctite on any caliper bolt, especially titanium?

These aren't rotor bolts that rarely get removed. Caliper bolts get removed every bleed, every adjustment.
Just screams WHY?!

The high end sram stuff comes stock with ti bolts. And as best I can remember, every sram caliper bolt I've ever seen comes with some sort of thread lock applied from the factory. As I recall, same goes for shimano.

[Eluder]

I am not sure of the current model, but XTR race brakes used to come with titanium caliper mounting hardware with a thread lock compound pre-applied.

Every brake caliper mounting bolt from any of the main manufacturers comes with a thread locker pre-applied. That applies to the hardware that comes with adapters as well.

[Roxtar]

The high end sram stuff comes stock with ti bolts. And as best I can remember, every sram caliper bolt I've ever seen comes with some sort of thread lock applied from the factory. As I recall, same goes for shimano.

I have new XTRs - no locktite. Shimano has always used alternate ways of securing caliper bolts, from lock wires to those plastic clips. Maybe Shimano does use a locktite but if so, it's a very light one. The bolts thread in pretty easily.
I stand by my comment on using ti bolts there. Titanium simply galls and stretches way too easily for a situation that requires frequent reuse or high torque. That's even a worse use than in stems or rotors (which is utterly stupid and pointless).

As for jackstraw's issue, It's most likely not a locktite issue. Even red locktite won't seize that completely. Something had to have totally buggered the threads there. If they are ti bolts, they could easily have been over-torqued which can stretch the threads, causing the seizure.

Personally, I want the strongest bolt I can get for this application. I don't even like stainless here. Just good solid steel.

Adaptors? Sure use locktite blue. They are set & forget.

[toast2266]

I have new XTRs - no locktite. Shimano has always used alternate ways of securing caliper bolts, from lock wires to those plastic clips. Maybe Shimano does use a locktite but if so, it's a very light one. The bolts thread in pretty easily.
I stand by my comment on using ti bolts there. Titanium simply galls and stretches way too easily for a situation that requires frequent reuse or high torque. That's even a worse use than in stems or rotors (which is utterly stupid and pointless).

As for jackstraw's issue, It's most likely not a locktite issue. Even red locktite won't seize that completely. Something had to have totally buggered the threads there. If they are ti bolts, they could easily have been over-torqued which can stretch the threads, causing the seizure.

Personally, I want the strongest bolt I can get for this application. I don't even like stainless here. Just good solid steel.

Adaptors? Sure use locktite blue. They are set & forget.

I'm not sure why you're frequently loosening and re-tightening your calipers to high torque. But by all means, do whatever works for you.

And for the record, all of that crap that shimano uses / used to retain bolts is a pain in the ass. Lock wires, plastic clips, the triangular rotor bolts with the little bendy steel washers. All of that can fuck right off. Every single other company seems to be able to keep their bolts in place just fine without all that bullshit.

[Andeh]

I've been using Ti bolts with either Loctite Blue or Ti Prep for years in all of those areas and never had issues. I have however had issues with steel (rusts within a week here), rounding out heads, and even had 1 steel stem bolt snap while using a torque wrench. Saddle clamp bolts are another location where Ti is far better than steel, which corrodes and seizes from water & sweat. So every bike of mine gets the same Ti hardware carried over from the last one, and the crappy steel put back on when the old one gets sold.

[jackstraw]

The lbs got it this far out. Seems like the threads are fucked if it moved this far and not going further? I need to cut the bolt off to get the disc adapter off and hoping the lbs has a bolt.

SC is not budging on the labor. They offered schwag...wtf. Lbs told me only Specialized covers labor on warranty issues...for bikes they sell. Yeah Specialized! [emoji23]

My new XT 4 piston came with a small dab of Loctite on the bolts.

[Dee Hubbs]

Those should have had a conical washer on top.
Anytime a caliper adapter is used to account for a larger rotor, it changes the angle that the bolt heads sit on the adapter, thus the need for a the conical washer.

See this crude drawing for an understanding of how the bolt head does not line up with the plane of the adapter.

[John_B]

I've always cursed those conical washers when I pull a caliper but it's good to hear they have a purpose.

Jackstraw it sounds stupid but have you tried some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench? Let that work for a day and maybe it'll help?

[Spencer123]

That is cool to know! Question though, how come some companies like shimano use them, where as my Hayes and Magura adapters come with just normal looking washers? Thanks!

QUOTE=Dee Hubbs;7058749]Those should have had a conical washer on top.
Anytime a caliper adapter is used to account for a larger rotor, it changes the angle that the bolt heads sit on the adapter, thus the need for a the conical washer.

See this crude drawing for an understanding of how the bolt head does not line up with the plane of the adapter.
[/QUOTE]

[dannynoonan]

Maybe an optical illusion but that bolt looks bent. That'd cause a lot of friction unthreading it, if that were the case...

[jackstraw]

Those should have had a conical washer on top.
Anytime a caliper adapter is used to account for a larger rotor, it changes the angle that the bolt heads sit on the adapter, thus the need for a the conical washer.

See this crude drawing for an understanding of how the bolt head does not line up with the plane of the adapter.

I was wondering why the front has those and the rear does not. I checked my other bikes and none of the rear has that washer, but the fronts do. ??

Tried one more time to get the bolt out. Nope. What a pia. Not happy dealing with this bs on a new bike. I don't even know who to blame! The lbs who put it together, SRAM, or SC! But I'm the one getting screwed! ...oh well. I've got weed and beer and another bike to make me smile.

[Roxtar]

I'm not sure why you're frequently loosening and re-tightening your calipers to high torque. But by all means, do whatever works for you.

Every time you adjust or bleed your brakes, as well as any fork servicing, you loosen and retighten caliper bolts and yes, they are one of the higher torqued bolts on your bike.

And for the record, all of that crap that shimano uses / used to retain bolts is a pain in the ass. Lock wires, plastic clips, the triangular rotor bolts with the little bendy steel washers. All of that can fuck right off. Every single other company seems to be able to keep their bolts in place just fine without all that bullshit.

I agree completely. I've never used them because they're simply silly and unnecessary. If you properly torque your bolts, all that stuff, including a slathering of locktite, isn't needed.

[Roxtar]

Those should have had a conical washer on top.
Anytime a caliper adapter is used to account for a larger rotor, it changes the angle that the bolt heads sit on the adapter, thus the need for a the conical washer.

See this crude drawing for an understanding of how the bolt head does not line up with the plane of the adapter.

What he said.
If that was from the factory, there's your culprit.

Yeah Specialized!]

Fuck specialized

[skaredshtles]

Fuck specialized

[jackstraw]

Well, right now I'm saying fuck PON! If this was an Epic I wouldn't be shelling out any money or using my time to deal with this shit! So specialsauce wins this debate

[zion zig zag]

Do those conical washers just self align the correct orientation? I was changing brakes today and noticed them, but it seemed like you couldn’t really make them stay in the “right” direction, but they look pretty much right after tightening.


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[Andeh]

Do those conical washers just self align the correct orientation? I was changing brakes today and noticed them, but it seemed like you couldn’t really make them stay in the “right” direction, but they look pretty much right after tightening.


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Yes. The beauty of them is they don't require any alignment, they will self align.

[Eluder]

A couple things...

1. Shimano does use thread locker on caliper bolts. Yes, they also have stupid wire holes and plastic clip things.

2. As stated, the reason that was stuck was improper installation. It definitely was missing hardware and being inserted too far because of it... likely passed the threaded portion of the frame.

3. Those are not titanium bolts, they are Rainbow Stainless bolts.

[jm2e]

Well, right now I'm saying fuck PON! If this was an Epic I wouldn't be shelling out any money or using my time to deal with this shit! So specialsauce wins this debate

I've had two Special Ed ebike motors replaced under warranty. Both outside of their warranty dates. One by 2 weeks and one by several months, but they still covered 'em. And they covered labor and new mounting hardware. My understanding is that labor sucks ballz on those motor swaps, so I was feeling well supported by the big S. So yea, Fuck Specialized, but also fuck most companies big and small that don't default to doing the right thing to back up their premium products. I've seen it with big brands but way more often I've seen it with the boutique Fanboi brands. They're businesses.

[Abies]

I hate ride wraps. I got a matte one for my new bike and it looks like shit. Peeling it off everywhere except the bottom of the downtube and inside of the chainstays. Bike is metal anyways I don’t know why I bothered.


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[jackstraw]

^a road bike?

Wrapping a mtn bike makes no sense to me. Then again when it comes to gear idgaf what it looks like.

[sfotex]

I hate ride wraps. I got a matte one for my new bike and it looks like shit. Peeling it off everywhere except the bottom of the downtube and inside of the chainstays. Bike is metal anyways I don’t know why I bothered.


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But that TruCoat

[sfotex]

I was wondering why the front has those and the rear does not. I checked my other bikes and none of the rear has that washer, but the fronts do. ??

Tried one more time to get the bolt out. Nope. What a pia. Not happy dealing with this bs on a new bike. I don't even know who to blame! The lbs who put it together, SRAM, or SC! But I'm the one getting screwed! ...oh well. I've got weed and beer and another bike to make me smile.

If your ready to toss that rear triangle, have you tired hitting it with some heat? If that was an auto, I would have had the blow torch on it right away.... not that it would recommend that on CF, but if the next step is the garbage can I would try a blow torch on it as a last ditch effort. You will have to cut some flats in it or a slot for a screw driver....