Anyone have anything they'd like to rant about?

[Dee Hubbs]

Finishing up a ride the other night in a City open space park I come around a corner and come face to face with a Honda 110 or 150 sized dirt bike on the trail. Guy just goes off trail around me and continues on.

Get back to the trailhead 15 min later and there's a car parked right there in the lot with an empty moto rack on it.

Takes some balls or lack of brain cells to stage right from the trailhead parking lot.

Attachment 489176

Pull his hitch pin and clip, he won't notice until he gets up top speed on the main road.

[evdog]

Did you have a schraeder core tool, by any chance?

Pull his hitch pin and clip, he won't notice until he gets up top speed on the main road.

Evil, but I like it.

Didn't have a shraeder valve core tool unfortunately. I pared back my tool kit and since valve caps have presta core removers built in I removed my double sided core remover. Otherwise dude would have had 4 flats.

[Canada1]

Years ago I had a summer job in Boulder. On my first night in town I went to the end of some random street and went up a tail. Hours later, came riding out a much more major trail to be stopped by a ranger who told me you couldn’t ride there. She was cool not to blast me. Maybe the Moto guy didn’t know better?

[evdog]

Years ago I had a summer job in Boulder. On my first night in town I went to the end of some random street and went up a tail. Hours later, came riding out a much more major trail to be stopped by a ranger who told me you couldn’t ride there. She was cool not to blast me. Maybe the Moto guy didn’t know better?

If it was an ebike or even an e-moto I might give the guy the benefit of the doubt, since they all seem delusional that the motors in their bikes don't actually constitute...motors.

But riding after dark into an area that is clearly marked "No motorized vehicles" and "No offroad activity" and is a park in the middle of the city. I think this guy knew exactly what he was doing.

[Yukonrider]

Something about your bedding in process, installation, etc is off for sure.

Extra washer / spacer on your mounting bracket?

Looks about 10mm off. Any chance that's a 160 rotor with 180 mounting?

That's my guess. Conical washers under the caliper?

Fork is a Lyric which is a 180mm post mount, caliper was mounted directly to the fork post mounts. Same issue in the rear, I confirmed both rotors were 180mm rotors.

Install was double checked, nothing wrong about it. I am very curious what caused this, so open to any discussion/ criticism.

[Yukonrider]

Here are some installed pics:

[Phall]

It could be a need to face the mounting surface on the fork, could be slightly off.
Can you shoot a pic down to see the contact on the pads at all?

[Yukonrider]

It could be a need to face the mounting surface on the fork, could be slightly off.
Can you shoot a pic down to see the contact on the pads at all?

I have since removed the brakes, but the new Dominions line up perfectly.

I would also hesitate to blame facing as both F+R seem off by the same amount.

[Andeh]

You're using the same rotors with the Dominions? Something definitely off there both front and rear, there should not be that ~1.5mm line. If the Dominions cover the same rotors properly, it's got to be something goofy with those calipers.

Edit:
Take a look at the alignment of the caliper relative to the rotor in this photo on the SRAM website:
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/db-code-ult-c1
My guess is you got 160mm rotors mislabeled as 180s.

[Yukonrider]

You're using the same rotors with the Dominions? Something definitely off there both front and rear, there should not be that ~1.5mm line. If the Dominions cover the same rotors properly, it's got to be something goofy with those calipers.

I am using Hayes rotors and adapters with the dominions.

[toast2266]

Here are some installed pics:

I think that's just how the calipers hit HS2 rotors. I think those rotors just have extra meat on them for cooling. Yours look about the same as the ones in the Pinkbike review: https://www.pinkbike.com/news/review...s2-rotors.html

Is the rotor hitting the full pad? Is there a portion of the pad hanging over the top of the rotor? If not, I think it's fine.

[east or bust]

I’ll look at one of our bikes later and add another data point. Also has codes with HS2s


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[beaterdit]

That's how the Lady's HS2 Rotors look. Just swapped the old rotors out with no other adjustments. The HS2s have more material on the inner diameter, and also a tiny bit more on the outer, just 1mm or less there.

You can see the 200 rotor (front) goes past the edge of the pad a bit. Also note these are custom sized spacers I ground just because I like using the conical washers and I was out of the right size. This setup initially had the old SRAM Centerline Rotors. Looks like the 180 post mount rear does not go all the way past the edge of the pads. These are also G2 calipers so the pads are smaller than Code pads.

Haven't put my HS2 Rotors on my Code equipped bike yet but might today.

[Eluder]

Here are some installed pics:

Im not sure I am seeing what is wrong? is the pad above the rotor?

[joetron]

The bigger question is what the pads look like. If they are wearing with a lip on top of the pad, something is wrong, if the pads are flat, then you’re good.
I have the same setup on my bike and my rotor looks the same. Pads are normal.


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[Yukonrider]

Interesting, seeing as it seems to be "normal" I will now give my full review:

These brakes are awful. They were obnoxiously in your face loud, a full chorus of brake warbling brake sounds, I figured there HAD to be something wrong with them. They also have little to no power, even locking up the rear brake took some effort, luckily after about 60% power the sounds let you know exactly how much pull you had before lock up. They also seemed to suffer from more brake fade than they should, and I haven't ridden them outside Moab which isn't a particularly brake-fadey place.


On a related note I have a like new set of whatever these are for sale, great shape! 5 rides or so.

[rideit]

I have never ridden a sram brake product that I didn’t actively dislike.

[Dee Hubbs]

The bigger question is what the pads look like. If they are wearing with a lip on top of the pad, something is wrong, if the pads are flat, then you’re good.
I have the same setup on my bike and my rotor looks the same. Pads are normal.

If the pads look like the attached photos, there is a problem, but SRAM already knows about it. Even World Cup mechanics with SRAM factory support complain about this issue. (Brad Copeland on Kate Courtneys bikes)
My friends Scott bike does this to her Level pads, they are mounted to the frame without any adapters. If I was to face the disc mounts the depth of the lips, the pads would contact the disc too low. There is no fix other than filling down the lips every time I service that bike.

It's super dangerous situation. The SRAM pads have 2mm of braking material, and the discs are 1.8mm. So if they develop this lip, and he pads wear beyond 45% (1.1mm each) , the two lips (0.9mm + 0.9mm) can make contact with each other and prevent the warm part of the pads from contacting the disc. Thus not stopping you.

[toast2266]

Interesting, seeing as it seems to be "normal" I will now give my full review:

These brakes are awful. They were obnoxiously in your face loud, a full chorus of brake warbling brake sounds, I figured there HAD to be something wrong with them. They also have little to no power, even locking up the rear brake took some effort, luckily after about 60% power the sounds let you know exactly how much pull you had before lock up. They also seemed to suffer from more brake fade than they should, and I haven't ridden them outside Moab which isn't a particularly brake-fadey place.


On a related note I have a like new set of whatever these are for sale, great shape! 5 rides or so.

Loud brakes + no power almost certainly means you have oil on your pads.

[beaterdit]

Interesting, seeing as it seems to be "normal" I will now give my full review:

These brakes are awful. They were obnoxiously in your face loud, a full chorus of brake warbling brake sounds, I figured there HAD to be something wrong with them. They also have little to no power, even locking up the rear brake took some effort, luckily after about 60% power the sounds let you know exactly how much pull you had before lock up. They also seemed to suffer from more brake fade than they should, and I haven't ridden them outside Moab which isn't a particularly brake-fadey place.


On a related note I have a like new set of whatever these are for sale, great shape! 5 rides or so.

Which brakes are they? Big difference between Code R and Code RSC. The swing link adds a lot power by changing the leverage ratio through the lever stroke.

Did you bed in the new rotor properly? Moab might not do it with lack of sustained descents.

Anyway the pads overhang problem is kinda shit.

[Yukonrider]

Loud brakes + no power almost certainly means you have oil on your pads.

Zero chance of this, I am somewhat anal about brakes.

Which brakes are they?

Code ULT.

I did the standard 10 sprint to walking pace stops on a street in the neighborhood bed in

[toast2266]

Zero chance of this, I am somewhat anal about brakes.

You're using one of the most common brakes on the market, and you're having problems that no one else has. Something's up.

[beaterdit]

Zero chance of this, I am somewhat anal about brakes.



Code ULT.

I did the standard 10 sprint to walking pace stops on a street in the neighborhood bed in

Hmmm those are top of the line and bedding sounds adequate. I have no experience with the stealth levers but they should be fine. Given the symptoms I’d still try sanding the pads and rotors and try bedding again. Maybe a long shot but beyond that I’ve got nothing.

We’ve switched to MTX pads and they’re vastly superior to SRAM, cheaper too. Still though, shouldn’t need them, those brakes should work.

[Andeh]

Ridge on the pads is a huge red flag. I stand by my guess that something is wrong with the mount tabs on the brakes themselves, or the rotors were mislabeled with the wrong diameter, since it's unlikely that both the fork and frame would be off by the same amount (and be from separate MFGs).

[jamal]

If the pads look like the attached photos, there is a problem, but SRAM already knows about it. Even World Cup mechanics with SRAM factory support complain about this issue. (Brad Copeland on Kate Courtneys bikes)
My friends Scott bike does this to her Level pads, they are mounted to the frame without any adapters. If I was to face the disc mounts the depth of the lips, the pads would contact the disc too low. There is no fix other than filling down the lips every time I service that bike.

It's super dangerous situation. The SRAM pads have 2mm of braking material, and the discs are 1.8mm. So if they develop this lip, and he pads wear beyond 45% (1.1mm each) , the two lips (0.9mm + 0.9mm) can make contact with each other and prevent the warm part of the pads from contacting the disc. Thus not stopping you.

My levels (not the current versions) do this but I haven't seen it on any other sram brakes. I was thinking about trying to take material off the calipers with maybe a facing tool for mounts. But in the meantime i've just been filing the pads occasionally. I guess i could complain to sram.

I wouldn't want to take down the mounts on the frame/fork because then if i went to a different brake it would be too low. But taking the calipers down to put the pad in the right place should be fine? Or is the rotor going to hit the inside of the caliper or something first?