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Thread: Buying a 10+ year old car what could go wrong?

  1. #876
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    Quote Originally Posted by 54-46 View Post
    Thanks!
    And then chip it! And then bigger turbo... And then...
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  2. #877
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    Quote Originally Posted by commonlaw View Post
    Buy a used 3-4 year old Nissan Leaf with 50k miles for 6k and nearly completely offset your monthly (if u borrow) in fuel savings. Seriously.
    This ^^

    Though a cheap suby sure isn't the most wasteful commuter out there.

  3. #878
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    How bad is your Impreza on mileage and on your budget that a new to you car will save you more or cost you less than the 4500?

    I think the Leaf is a good idea too but apart from that (it'll cost you more; ~$ 6k) will you really justify another car by savings in gas mileage or upcoming repairs?

    Aside from used EVs you either go high mileage economic car, which will potentially cost you more than your Suby with repairs or go complete crapcan and drive it into the ground.
    I still call it The Jake.

  4. #879
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmillsSkier View Post
    Why buy a corolla when stuff like this is readily available on Portland's craigslist?

    $4200 Jeep Cherokee Classic
    local service station has one just like this. I bet it's in pristine shape with no miles considering its a courtesy car seldom used.

    (personally, I'm looking to replace my 2005-2010 grand Cherokee with the same with low miles; paying more depreciation than you have to on every car purchase is only slightly less stupid than regular trips to vegas)
    TGR forums cannot handle SkiCougar !

  5. #880
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    Heh. I had a 1994 Grand Cherokee Limited with the 5.2L V8 and full time 50/50 4wd. Bad choice for a teenager. Before I could hoon the shit out of it too badly it rattled itself to pieces in short order.

    Conversely my buddies Cherokee Classic with the 4L 6 ran like a damned top for nearly 15 years without a single repair, much less maintenance.

    I did beat him on mpg though. I got 8.8 and he got 14.
    I still call it The Jake.

  6. #881
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    Nothing like starting the work day off with a blown radiator…. $434 later...

  7. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    And then chip it! And then bigger turbo... And then...
    Those are expensive cars... A neighbor has a build going on one of those... Blew up 3 turbos and 2 engines in 6 months and his wife got a speeding ticket doing 95mph.

    Fun car when it's running though...
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  8. #883
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    Yeah, turbo = $. If Guy keeps blowing up turbos and motors, he is doing something wrong.
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  9. #884
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Yeah, turbo = $. If Guy keeps blowing up turbos and motors, he is doing something wrong.
    My engine and turbo went at 30k miles. They said I drove the car too hard...

  10. #885
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    You see, in this world there's two kinds of people, my friend: Those with loaded guns and those who dig. You dig.

  11. #886
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    Quote Originally Posted by runethechamp View Post
    DON'T BUY IT!




    Because I am. That's my old 330i. It's the first year of the e90 and the first and only year of the High Output, naturally aspirated engine in the e90 bodystyle. The only thing wrong with this example is that it's not in the proper tan interior.

    Seriously, back off. I'm feeling sentimental tonight.
    I still call it The Jake.

  12. #887
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    I like these. Check for Leaky valve cover gasket some of the early N52 engines had oil supply issues to the valves. If the engine sounds like trumpet tappets at cold startup, that is an indicator. Some may have had the head changed out by the dealer.
    Otherwise pretty nice little cars. I'm not a big fan of gray interior, tan or black is nicer. The Bmw straight six is silky smooth. Get a 6spd manual if you can.
    sigless.

  13. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by runethechamp View Post
    FWIW, I like my 2011 e91; my 2005 e46 was more involving though. If you go e90, see if you can find one with sport seats and manual. I like the NA inline 6 over the turbo 6 in the later 335s, even though it has less power and is less tunable.

    Also, this dealer lists this one as FWD (it's gotta be RWD) and alternates between 330i and 325i. Do your homework on VIN with Carfax, etc. and make sure it's what you want.

  14. #889
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    BMW fans - what should I look at on this one?

    Friend of Mrs C has offered us his 2010 3-series wagon, AWD. Don't have many details, but I think it's the naturally aspirated motor, about 110K miles. Wants $8K, which is what he said the dealer will give him in trade for his new car. Don't know if automatic or manual transmission. Mrs C says he's picky about maintenance and generally has the dealer work on everything.

    What are the known trouble points and issues to look at?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  15. #890
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    BMW fans - what should I look at on this one?

    Friend of Mrs C has offered us his 2010 3-series wagon, AWD. Don't have many details, but I think it's the naturally aspirated motor, about 110K miles. Wants $8K, which is what he said the dealer will give him in trade for his new car. Don't know if automatic or manual transmission. Mrs C says he's picky about maintenance and generally has the dealer work on everything.

    What are the known trouble points and issues to look at?
    Find a respected Indy BMW shop and have them inspect it.

  16. #891
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    BMW fans - what should I look at on this one?

    Friend of Mrs C has offered us his 2010 3-series wagon, AWD. Don't have many details, but I think it's the naturally aspirated motor, about 110K miles. Wants $8K, which is what he said the dealer will give him in trade for his new car. Don't know if automatic or manual transmission. Mrs C says he's picky about maintenance and generally has the dealer work on everything.

    What are the known trouble points and issues to look at?
    Sounds a lot like my 2011. 97% of these were auto. Ironically, a dealer serviced BMW at 110K is probably better than than one with 80K because a lot of stuff should have been replaced by now.

    Off the top, I'd look at the following:

    - Battery - if it needs replacing, it's over $400 (and that's by an Indy). The battery needs to be "registered" for the electronics to work properly. This should have been swapped out at 5 years, but its due if not.

    - Cooling system - check radiator, expansion tank, water pump (if it's still the one with a plastic impeller), plastic bits on hoses/thermostat. These should have been refreshed at 75-95K, but check. Major refresh is usually over $1200.

    - spark plugs/coils - if these need replacing you're prolly looking at $600-900 (based on my wife's X3 with a N52). These were prolly done around 75K, but check.

    - suspension - might have needed refresh at about 100K. If shocks/struts leaking that's a clue. Springs likely fine. My wife's X3 needed new struts at 95K and my e46 needed them at 110K.

    Bilstein b4 Touring are most like OEM on an x-drive, but cheaper. See: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein...FYF-fgod7D0I3w

    You might also consider also refreshing bushings and/or control arms. I refreshed/upgraded those on my e46 and the difference was amazing. Did not do it on my wife's X3 and it's just fine. Hell, she hardly noticed her struts were blown to begin with.

    Look at e90post or bimmerfest for more info.

  17. #892
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    Went and checked it out today. 122K miles, $8400 offered by dealer on the trade. 328 X-drive, automatic, dark green exterior, tan interior. Possible options (IDK if these were standard, standalone options, or part of a package): fog lights, parking sensors on front + rear bumpers, big sunroof, heated seats, navigation, roof rails (but no crossbars). Some dents and scratches. 16" wheels; sticker on door jamb says no spare tire, so I assume this means run-flats.

    Neither Mrs C nor I liked how it drove, so going to pass. Suspension feels loose, like shocks and/or bushings are worn. Needs tires. Weak acceleration, kind of noisy inside. It felt like other German cars I've driven and disliked for the same reasons: soft brake pedal, overly heavy steering, body roll.

    Quote Originally Posted by 54-46 View Post
    - Battery - if it needs replacing, it's over $400 (and that's by an Indy). The battery needs to be "registered" for the electronics to work properly. This should have been swapped out at 5 years, but its due if not.

    - Cooling system - check radiator, expansion tank, water pump (if it's still the one with a plastic impeller), plastic bits on hoses/thermostat. These should have been refreshed at 75-95K, but check. Major refresh is usually over $1200.

    - spark plugs/coils - if these need replacing you're prolly looking at $600-900 (based on my wife's X3 with a N52). These were prolly done around 75K, but check.
    Also passing because of ridiculous repair costs like this. $400 to replace and "reprogram" a battery? Fuck off, BMW.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  18. #893
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    Yup, best time to own a BMW is on lease (new) or on a CPO with warranty up to 100K.

    If you own it beyond that and have to do all the repairs, they run well IME up to 150K-200K but that's not a cheap car.

    Sounds like it ran crappy because it needed brakes, struts/shocks, plugs/coils, tires, and was generally cared for like it was a Toyota.

  19. #894
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    Sounds like that one was in poor condition.
    sigless.

  20. #895
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Sounds like that one was in poor condition.
    I'll say. Nothing like any 100k e90 example I've ever been in that was treated with halfway decent respect. Especially the brakes thing. My old 330i (and current 335) have the best brakes outside of a P car I've had. Sometimes too grippy. Glad you walked away Chup, I bet it would be a nightmare to repair.
    I still call it The Jake.

  21. #896
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    Cool pic.
    I still call it The Jake.

  22. #897
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dromontana View Post
    Thanks, put 15mm spacers on this week & it's finally warm here so it's back in normal dd duty. Hoping to get it on a euro-spec ride height for canyon season, it already has sways & a few things to open up the induction sound. Sold the fabspeed unit to get rid of sensor failures. Going to put a console delete like the GT3s to give it more legroom. That's about it for now, it's been a lot of fun bringing it up to the desired spec.
    It's talk like that that triggers late, late nights perusing rennlist.
    I still call it The Jake.

  23. #898
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    There's a group buy in process for performance cats (regular or x-pipes). For both 996 and 997s, gives the exhaust more of a mechanical sound.

  24. #899
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    Nice stuff Bromo. We gotta do a canyon run here pretty quick. Mine oughta be fully operational and ready to reef on in the next day or two as seen in my thread.
    sigless.

  25. #900
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    Quote Originally Posted by commonlaw View Post
    Buy a used 3-4 year old Nissan Leaf with 50k miles for 6k and nearly completely offset your monthly (if u borrow) in fuel savings. Seriously.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sirshredalot View Post
    I did this. It works as advertised. The Leaf is our grocery-getter / day care run car. The suby wagon gets used for trips out of town and bad weather days.
    I found a 2011 Leaf SL with 16k miles for $7k. I'm trying to get more information about it. Hoping it has the cold weather package as it would be primarily a winter runabout for my wife. Good buy? Or would it be better to get a newer model for around $10k to have the remaining warranty on the battery? (5y/60k)

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