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Thread: ON3P SKIS Discussion

  1. #15451
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    218
    I wonder if the tuning machine got left on the "park detune" setting explained in the custom builder.

    "Park Detune skis come with edges rounded underfoot (detuned) - this minimizes friction when sliding rails, and prolongs edge life under the high impact stresses inherent to park skiing. The remainder of effective edge is tuned 1:1, and also includes tip/tail rocker gummi to reduce new-ski hookiness at contacts."

  2. #15452
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by sf;[emoji[emoji6[emoji640
    [emoji638]][emoji640][emoji639]][emoji637][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji638][emoji637][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji638]]Nah, he’s busy over in the HL threads [emoji[emoji637][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji639]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]]
    Yeah, his butthurt is hilarious.


    Sent from my iPhone using [emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji640][emoji638][emoji638][emoji638]]TGR Forums

  3. #15453
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2FUNKY View Post
    Yeah, his butthurt is hilarious.


    Sent from my iPhone using [emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji640][emoji638][emoji638][emoji638]]TGR Forums
    Nah, I just think it's funny how hypocritical this site is.
    Training for Alpental

  4. #15454
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    Yeah, you’ve been crying about HL for a while now. All butthurt over the amount of threads etc. Hilarious!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  5. #15455
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2FUNKY View Post
    Yeah, you’ve been crying about HL for a while now. All butthurt over the amount of threads etc. Hilarious!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    It aint that serious.
    Training for Alpental

  6. #15456
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    For the sake of curiosity and redneck engineering, what boot and binding combo are you on? Bonus points if you happen to know the boot lean angle and binding delta.

    All of my recent experience f’ing around with mount points has me thinking that my next skis (or next remount of existing skis) will be a Strive 13 Demo to see how I like the stack height and the feel of the toepiece/flex. I have a theory that aggressively rockered skis are pretty sensitive to small (say 5mm) changes in mount point in mostly 2D conditions due to such short camber contact length; getting too far forward can give a teeter totter feeling over the front of the skis, and I suspect that getting too far back would make the ski feel too locked in. But I’m really curious to see if the optimal mount point varies more by boot angle and binding delta than it does by preferred stance …

    I can tell you that changing my binding delta from 5mm to 1.7mm made a remarkable difference at my current slightly forward mount. I’m about to experiment with running it at 2.9mm delta.
    Some days I think everyone should mount demo bindings on all of their skis, test drive and mess around with positions. It’s very telling. After locating ‘your spot’, remount with your preferred binding and keep the demo binding for the next ski…..use inserts if you want the option to let others try them with the demos.


    Sent from my iPad SlideWright Ski & Snowboard Tools
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  7. #15457
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    Oct 2008
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    ON3P SKIS Discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by Yukonrider View Post
    Alright, so my Woodsman 108s finally delivered a good ski day.

    I mounted them -2 from recommended, (so -10, I dunno I can measure if anyone cares that much), I sort of wish I'd have gone -1.5 but whatever small thing.

    I got them tip to tail wintersteiger'd to 1/2, then did a pretty aggressive de-tune to about 2 inches before the contact point then a light detune to the contact. Also detuned the tails about 6 inches moderately aggressively.

    The skis ski well now. I still have some learning to do on them, but they held up all day to whatever I did, including steeps, moguls, chalk, fast runouts, groomers, whatever. They leave things to be desired on the groomers, but this isn't their purpose, and they perform fine, or even very fine as long as you aren't trying to crank turns. Pretty forgiving in odd snow, and damp in the chattery chalk. They were pretty fun actually which is a massive improvement from day 1 when they were absolutely un skiable.

    I will update once I get a few more days, and a 3 to 5 inch day which is what I bought them for.

    6'1" 165lb and pretty aggressive directional skier for futures searchers.
    To clarify ‘wintersteiger'd’, machined or hand tools? If by hand, that’s essentially what I did on the 109 Pioneers, except rounding to contact points. After ACL surgery due to sharp tips, the rounder the better.

    Sent from my iPad SlideWright Ski & Snowboard Tools
    Last edited by AlpiNord; 01-30-2025 at 10:39 PM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR

  8. #15458
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    3,262
    His were not hand took fixable

  9. #15459
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    8,858
    Billy Goat Woes:
    New to me 182 BG118 Wood Eagles. Possibly 2022 vintage? I’m a 140 lbs skier who does not shred … I bought this size because I was encouraged by my 182 Wood 110s feeling perfect for me.

    Issues:
    Nothing to do with base or tune!
    -Shop didn’t call me when remounting and due to hole conflict they ended up putting me like -0.8 behind the marked line, or -10.5 from center is what I measured
    -The ski is stiffer than my 182 Wood 110s, which I’m running at -7 cm, and at this mount I have to gas my shins with all the strength I have to deal with all that ski in front of my feet, and get it to quickly go where I want
    -The ski is absurdly fast in dense PNW “powder” - like it skis faster than I can process/drive and just wants to gun down the fall line faster than I can figure out what I should be doing

    Positives:
    -The ski definitely can float, turn, release and smear in stupid thick PNW wet cement, so that is awesome
    -The stiffness keeps them tracking on the line, as long as I’m on my A game they land and blast through everything

    Solutions:
    I’m thinking that if I can remount (maybe just put demos on it) and try it at -9 cm it would feel a lot more nimble and fun, hopefully less tiring even …
    I’m also thinking that at this size and stiffness it might be more of an alpine big mountain pow ski for me (which I have really no use for) and not a nimble tree PNW cement ski, which is what I have been wanting (replacing a previous gen Rustler 11 and older Armada Tracer 118, neither of which I have found ideal for this use case).
    I wonder if it’s even worth remounting or if I should really be saving and looking for a 176/177 BG?
    Or should I get over my fear of a -4 cm ski and just find some 181/182 J118s?
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  10. #15460
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    Apr 2014
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    2,797

    ON3P SKIS Discussion

    I’d guess the flex is the bigger issue, although the one eighty two also might be a bit too long for you too (not sure how tall you are)

    One seventy nine cm, maybe if you find something older in a tour or fifty/fifty layup that might work a lot better for you. Or some steeples

    Moving forward could help too, but -.eight cm isn’t that far back to begin with.

  11. #15461
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    I think you are right that the flex is the main issue given my weight strength and height (I’m 5’ 8”). At this flex it seems like the 176 Goat is the better play.

    All of my other skis are 178 to 180 core length, not straight pull, so those 182 Woods are the longest skis I own.

    I want something that can get loose and go sideways quickly but still power through wind lips and windfunked wet pow when needed, though not necessarily at volume 11, and a directional (but loose) mount.

    179 Steeple 116 seems like it would be a unicorn that could fit the bill.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  12. #15462
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    336
    Schralph, Id try mounting them a bit forward if you can (no more than 1cm) and detuning tips/tails. Also ski them a few more days. Standard BG adjustment period. Effective edge on BGs is quite a bit less than Woods and BGs tail is designed to release easier. So BGs should ski shorter than Woods. Im just a little bit bigger than you and ski the 186/187s. Im +1cm on my 187s and they are cold dead hands skis. They are the 110s tho. I think flex is very similar between Woods and BGs. Dont give up on em. Theres magic to be unlocked.

  13. #15463
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    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    Thanks Cocoa. I think if I’m going to put any more holes in these skis I’ll do it with demo bindings so that it can make the skis more sellable if I move on from them.
    These are Wood veneers too, I wonder if that is why they are stiffer than my 182 Woods.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  14. #15464
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
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    Bay Area
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    I am not a certified BG expert, but I thought some of the more recent goat releases were supposed to be more "super goat" like? I have some pre-asym goats that are super easy (heavy, but easy). I also have some super goats that are a handful and are better skied in open terrain. But I have not skied that vintage so I couldn't really say.

  15. #15465
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    Mar 2007
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    Eugenio Oregón
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    I’m totally unclear on vintage as the seller didn’t know. I just know they are 182 BG118 Wood Eagles, so it has to be earlier than 2024 and I think later than 2020 because they were 116 mm and 179 cm back then right?
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  16. #15466
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    336
    You are correct. They are the last iteration before the current most recent model. In regards to veneer, Scott has mentioned veneer adds about 5-10% stiffness.

  17. #15467
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    361
    Skied my 184 asyms today in a typical Seymour storm day. 1st day after remounting with pivots and am back about point five cm but using hgher angle boots. Felt absolutely perfect, just point, slash, pop and hold on.

  18. #15468
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    259
    Forward mount yer goatz for more tree nimbleness and general tomfoolery. The "on the the line" crew can't see the full picture.

  19. #15469
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    Jul 2006
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    voting in seattle
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    The iteration I think SchralphMacchio has skis nimbler back 1cm than forward. Much more of the classic BG feel

  20. #15470
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Eugenio Oregón
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    Today I found some snow conditions where I didn’t like my Wood 110s … and it wasn’t crust, because those skis can crush even firm snow … but blower! Had a rare snow-to-Willamette-Valley-Floor day and it was total blower on the mountain 5000 feet above valley floor. I started on Enforcer 94s which were a blast skiing on the old packed powder surface with shallow blower flying up and over my skis and boots etc. After a decent amount of storm snow accumulated I switched to the Woods and they were just wide enough to skim just above the surface of the old snow but not fat enough for real float in that stuff, so any landings or power moves would bring them down onto the old snow and then speed would just barely pull them above it. They felt planky because I had nothing to push off of in the new snow layer, I couldn’t load them up. Switched to my previous generation Rustler 11s and they were much more energetic and able to catch and push off a little tiny bit more. I think on “not deep storm days” my dividing line will be <8% density snow then go R11 and more than that go Wood 110.
    I just find that interesting because I bought the Woods specifically because they are magic in high water content snow … I never considered that they would be not as fun in blower as other options.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  21. #15471
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Posts
    61
    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Today I found some snow conditions where I didn&rsquo;t like my Wood 110s &hellip; and it wasn&rsquo;t crust, because those skis can crush even firm snow &hellip; but blower! Had a rare snow-to-Willamette-Valley-Floor day and it was total blower on the mountain 5000 feet above valley floor. I started on Enforcer 94s which were a blast skiing on the old packed powder surface with shallow blower flying up and over my skis and boots etc. After a decent amount of storm snow accumulated I switched to the Woods and they were just wide enough to skim just above the surface of the old snow but not fat enough for real float in that stuff, so any landings or power moves would bring them down onto the old snow and then speed would just barely pull them above it. They felt planky because I had nothing to push off of in the new snow layer, I couldn&rsquo;t load them up. Switched to my previous generation Rustler 11s and they were much more energetic and able to catch and push off a little tiny bit more. I think on &ldquo;not deep storm days&rdquo; my dividing line will be <8% density snow then go R11 and more than that go Wood 110. I just find that interesting because I bought the Woods specifically because they are magic in high water content snow &hellip; I never considered that they would be not as fun in blower as other options.
    I owned a pair of these, and had the exact same experience in blower-on-top-of-base...they felt planky. In what I like to call any kind of Supportive snow, they were always great.

  22. #15472
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    Oct 2020
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    SLC
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    I find this to be the same with my woods 110s as well. They can certainly deliver some awesome fun in deep blower pow but they aren’t as easy and energetic as my Jeffrey 118s are.

  23. #15473
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Posts
    61
    Has anyone tried mounting their Wrens at +1 or +2? I have two pair of Woodsmen in the quiver that see a similar number of days. When I take the Wrenegade 102ti out, Im always feeling behind them a bit...long after settling-in on the day, so thinking about a remount a bit more forward...but I keep hearing Iggys voice saying On The Line! Thanks

  24. #15474
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    336
    Wouldnt recommend going more than 1cm forward on Wrens. Youll start to feel a lot of tail.

  25. #15475
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Driving2VT
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    ON3P SKIS Discussion

    Wrens reward a forward boot pressure / aggressively driven skiing style where the WDs will allow you to relax “a bit” at least to a level of relaxation the Wrens don’t tolerate. Let’s go!

    May be more about adjusting your mindset than the mount. I have always loved my Wrens on the line. Skied many. I am meh on the Woods (as compared to the Wren - dig ‘em just not as much but I’ve only skied year 1 woods). Total preference, not a knock on the Woods. Just not as good as the Wrens for me. Point is they do ski differently and I doubt mount adjustments will do much to bring them closer together.
    Uno mas

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