Bike tuning resource thread.

[gonzo]

So I have some books at home on bike tech stuff, but they are pretty outdated at this point. Any good online bike tuning resources? I am specifically looking for info on what I should use to soak/clean my chain & sprocket, but I realized that there is not a thread on tuning bikes (that I can find)...so maybe we should start one up? Any tognar.com for bike sites out there?

[SkiingBear]

Found some info on the Park Tools page. Are you looking for something like this. It looks like it reads like a giant Park ad, but there should be some good info in there.

[phUnk]

Buy some citrus degreaser and use that to clean your chain/sprocket. The best way to clean a chain is to take it off (you'll need a chain breaker), toss it some kind of small recloseable plastic container, pour some citrus degreaser in there, shake it up, take it out, let it dry thoroughly, put it back on the bike and lube it.

You can use that same degreaser and a toothbrush to clean your sprockets.

Also: Never use any high pressure water to clean your bike.

[gonzo]

werd. thanks phunk. what else do doods do when i bring my bike in for a tune? clean the rims? wipe the rig down? lube the pointy part of the seat?

[funkendrenchman]

Also: Never use any high pressure water to clean your bike.

Doesn't that only apply to the hubs and the fork as long as you relube the chain?

At Whistler they have 8 pretty powerful hoses for people to clean bikes, and I would say most people are cleaning their $5000 DH rigs with those hoses. Then again maybe it's just a ploy to get people to ruin their bikes so they can then go buy overpriced parts at shops in the village.

[Vinman]

no high pressure at the hub, bottom bracket or head set. Other places are ok just be careful.

clean your rims and brake pads with windex.

[Crinkle]

for cleaning use simple green mixed with water and a scrub brush, it will get off all the grease and dirt with very little effort. You can also use simple green to clean the chain like phunk said, just make sure to re-lube after cleaning.

[flowtron]

clean your rims and brake pads with windex.

Or with disc bakes use alcohol on the rotors with a clean paper towel, not a greazy rag. If you think your brake pads got contaminated take em out, put just enough alcohol on the surface to cover them and light them on fire, this theoretically will burn out flammable contaminants(You can usually see stuff bubble out). I usually burn a couple times, sand them, burn them again, sand again and put them back in. They might squeal for a few brakings but then they will be good. If they still don't work, you gotta buy new ones. I'm a wrench at a shop, I do this alot and it usually does work well....plus you get to play with fire. Just make sure your doing it on a non-flammable surface.

As for cleaning your bike, I swear by White Lightning Clean Streak to clean dirty greazy parts and Pedros Bike Lust for verything else.

[gonzo]

werd-werd! just got my new wheels - cleaned up my cassette and chain real nice before putting on the new guys. used simple green and wiped the frame down with pedro's bike lust. thanks for the tips doods. i think i need some spacers to keep my cassette snug on the new freewheel though...also need to invest in the wrench that unscrews the cassette nut-thingie...

keep the tips coming!

[phUnk]

Doesn't that only apply to the hubs and the fork as long as you relube the chain?

I didn't mean to imply that a pressure hose would melt your frame, it's just that I think it's pretty hard to avoid hitting the trouble spots with a high pressure hose.

[snow_slider]

Once your bike is clean and you're about to head out for a ride, wipe down the frame with a non-sticky wet lube (I like Tri-Flow, but hell even PAM works). This will help prevent mud from sticking to the frame and make it much easier to clean the next time around.

When changing innertubes, sprinkle baby powder into the inside of the tire casing and rub it around. It will help prevent the innertube from sticking to the inside of the tire casing over time. Also coat the innertube with some baby powder before inserting/inflating it.

[phUnk]

^^^ And who doesn't love getting lube all over their gloves when they need to carry their bike a short distance?

[truth]

clean your rims and brake pads with windex.

or rubbing alchohol or you can use an automotive brake rotor cleaner (rims only)...but that might be going too far. Never, and I repeat NEVAH use pledge (lemon scent or not) to clean your rims.

As for chains, the uber lube is to dip em in parafin wax, but this requires a new chain that has been stripped of all grease and is a bit of a PITA. But if you love the sound of perfect chain meshing with the cogs when the wind is at your back it's silky smoove (like phUnk on a rail only better).

For rides you know will be mudfests a quick spary of Pam on your clipless pedals will help them shed the gunk.

Constantly breaking open a chain to remove it weakens the chain so try to keep that to a minimum.

Don't forget that a cleam chamois is a happy chamois and always apply cream.

Baby powder is key for the tubes, I actually carry mine in a zip lock sammy bag pre-loaded with pow.

[bagtagley]

Use Efferdent denture cleaning tablets to clean your Camelback bladder and tube. Fill the bladder w/ hot water, drop in 3 tablets, run some water through the hose, and let 'er sit for a while. Just make sure you rinse thoroughly.

The end of a car key works wonders for removing the mold from the bite valve on your Camelback. I find a Subaru key works best.

[homerjay]

Another reason to use SRAM chains is that the powerlink makes them so easy to remove and clean. I soak mine in coleman camping fuel, makes them look brand new. Replace chain 1x year or whenever measurement indicates stretch.

Keep high pressure water away from any bearings.

I always use simple green for my bike, works great.

Don't be one of those morons lubing their chains in the parking lot, wet lube will do nothing but collect dust and grit.

[snow_slider]

^^^ And who doesn't love getting lube all over their gloves when they need to carry their bike a short distance?

I don't carry my bike I actually ride it over obstacles.

[gonzo]

any tips on adjusting derailers? there are those little screws on the back that i know are good for something. i should probably buy a book...but it's cheaper to ask you guys

[flowtron]

any tips on adjusting derailers? there are those little screws on the back that i know are good for something. i should probably buy a book...but it's cheaper to ask you guys

Those screws (limit screws) control the range of motion if the derailler. The limt the der. so you don't throw your chain into the frame on the low end, or into the wheel on the hig end. 99% of the time, once they are set when the bike is built, you don't mess with them. If your hanger or derailler is tweaked they can help a bit to get you through, but basically...don't mess with them.
Cable tension is how you adjust the shifting...through the barrel adjuster on the der. and on the shifter. More tension will solve problems with shifting up the cassette, less tension will help you adjust shifts down the cassette. Gotta find the balance in between. Clean cables and housing also affect the shifting.
hope this helps

[scoober]

any tips on adjusting derailers? there are those little screws on the back that i know are good for something. i should probably buy a book...but it's cheaper to ask you guys

If it's a Shimano, you can download the adjustment instructions off their website. There is a very deliberate method of setting up deraileurs and if you follow it, it is a pretty simple process. If you just go in and start twisting limit screws around to help shifting in one range of gears, you may very well get into another range of gears that worked fine previously, but is now hosed.

[gonzo]

thanks doods. what sort of chain lubes do you prefer? i remember hearing something about white lightening being good cause it is drier? or a wax or something?

flowtron: what level of disassembly/cleaning/lubing is typically done with a standard tune? do you actually take the cables and housings off and clean them, etc. or do you stick with the cartridge/chain removal? i guess you pay what you get for, but i am trying to make sure i cover all the bases with my shiz.

also, it looks like my hubs require some sort of special tool for disassembly - looks like it might be something like a pedal wrench but skinnier? anyone?

[snow_slider]

thanks doods. what sort of chain lubes do you prefer?

I'm a tri-flow junkie, but I've recently been using Pro-Link. The jury is still out. The pro-link seems to last a bit longer, but it also tends to attract more grime onto the chain. I've never been a big fan of White Lightening. It would dry up and fall off before I was very far into a ride and then I could hear squeaks and chain grind.

[Shin-to-Win]

Don't mess with your hubs, check them for play every now and then, but most likely they will outlast the rims they are on.

Check spoke tension. Learn how to true the wheels and keep the spokes tight and at even tension

Lube the joints. A dab of tri-flow on the derailleur pivots, brake pivots, cables right at the entrance to housings etc helps keep the shifting and braking smoothly.

Keep the brakes and rims free of grease/oil. If the pads are way old, replace them, they can get hard over time. I like the burning idea for the disc pads Gotta try that one.

Grease on threads. Get a torque wrench and use it.

Grease seatpost every year. Replace cables/housing every few years.

Key Tools:

Good Cable/housing cutters
Torque wrench
Allen Set
Spoke wrench
Crank extractor
Cassette remover
Sprocket whip

[gonzo]

nice....whaddaya use the torque wrench for? also, if you could edit your list to include "blowtorch" i would appreciate it. i have been looking for an excuse to get one of those for a while.

[Bunion 2020]

For lube I prefer, Pedros for the drive train and Tri-flo for the cables and Phil Wood grease for pivots and points of contact between aluminum and steel like crank and BB.

For cables, don't take em off, put your deralliers in small ring/cog and then manually push the derallier towad the big ring/cog. This will put enough slack into the cable system to take the cable housing out of the guides. Slide the housing out of the way and clean the cables with a rag and some rubbing alcohol, let dry lube with a touch of tri-flo and re-seat cables. It works wonders for your shifting.

I also use rubbing alchol for cleaning chains etc, good de-greaser, no soap and less toxic than most solvents.

One other item, when using any lube for chain or cables... less is better, nothing more jong-like than a really wet with lube drive train all clotted with dirt & dust.....

[Frozone]

I have a new favorite chain lube, Rock and Roll lube, http://www.rocklube.com/. I typically use a dry lube because I live in a desert and it's the easiest way to keep my drive train clean. Had to lube every ride and sometimes mid-ride. The Rock and Roll lube has been great, keeps chain clean, lasts a number of rides, even in wet conditions (we've had a wet spring in Utah) and I've got a number of riding buds who have been using it with great success for years. I still like teflon based dry lubes for cables, pivots, etc, need to lube more often but stays clean. Extreme conditions require wet lubes, although the Rock and Roll stuff will handle all conditions when it comes to the chain.

I don't ever need to pull my chain because the lube keeps it clean. If I need to clean deeper I use a Finish Line chain cleaning tool and some Simple Green or Finish Line Eco degreaser. Ditto on the keeping cables clean, makes a huge difference.

Torque wrench is good for pedals, cranks, bottom brackets (foot pounds) and suspension pivots, shocks, etc (inch pounds). My stuff never loosens up and I don't break stuff either (except a bolt once because I misread foot pounds for inch pounds, ouch!) because I torque to manufacturers specs, imagine that!