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Thread: Bike tuning resource thread.

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by gonzo
    what about driving far with bikes on the roof? anything that should be done before or after? driving from chicago to san fran in a few days with both bikes up there. don't really want to get those bra cover thingies, but i guess they are probably a good idea...
    Just check to make sure the rack doesn't get loose. And be ready to clean off a lot of bugs if you don't have a cover for it. I've never had any mechanical problems after having the bikes on the roof for a long road trip, even through rain and snow.

  2. #52
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    http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=

    Like these????

    Again, I could really care less...

    Flowtron... Never heard of cleaning Disc brake pads like you described, thanks mucho... that worked better than I could have expected.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bunion
    Again, I could really care less...
    http://biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id...item_id=BR-CW1

    With a bike on the roof rack, make sure you have enough overhead clearance when pulling in. Mother than 1 bike has been f'ed that way.
    Elvis has left the building

  4. #54
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    Thanks for that link, clever product....


    When I was in Moab this spring a friends bike needed some repairs. We went to Chile Peppers for the work.

    A cutie dropped in with a Santa Cruz that she had somehow run into an overhang. The only thing left worth keeping was the Frame-set.

    For someone who had just done 1800.00 damage she was in pretty good spirits. Ouch...

  5. #55
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    Just thought of a good(?) one.
    When putting tires back on rims, always position of the label on the tire so it lines up with the valve.
    No technical advantage, just a classy thing to do.
    Actually, I've heard it can be an advantage in a race cuz when you flat and you're all huffin/puffin you can find your valve a few seconds quicker.
    "It's too bad that a lot of people have never experienced the feeling of rollerblading in the cool air of a summer evening"
    TheQuietStorm

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by flowtron
    Just thought of a good(?) one.
    When putting tires back on rims, always position of the label on the tire so it lines up with the valve.
    No technical advantage, just a classy thing to do.
    Actually, I've heard it can be an advantage in a race cuz when you flat and you're all huffin/puffin you can find your valve a few seconds quicker.
    it looks classy yeah, but the real functional advantage is when you get a tiny pinhole flat, take your tube and tire off, you can line up your valve stem with the logo, find where the hole in your tube is, then search the tire in that immediate area to make sure the thorn/glass/pricker/whatever isn't still stuck in the tire to go ahead and re-flat your new or patched tube.

    some of Scott's bikes actually have the label span the rim and tire, pretty funky.
    As I rained blows upon him, I realized there had to be another way.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bunion
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Bunion

    Sorry Plakespear, incorrect answer, Cassettes are held in place by an allen bolt, 12mm i believe, you must remove the axle and cones to access this bolt. Chain whips are to take apart older threaded on style free wheels. You need 2 of them to unscrew the smallest cog and then the stack comes apart. No big deal anyway...
    I don't know what kind of bikes you are working on, but any modern cassette is held on a modern freehub body with a lockring. Remove the lockring, the cassette slides right off. The only way to get that lockring off without the freehub (and cassette) spinning is to secure the cassette with a chain whip. (Unless you have some leather gloves or some other ghetto-rigged method to hold the cassette, which given your grumpy retro-grouchy anal retentiveness about cone wrenches and pre packaged tool sets, would not suprise me)

    You seem to sort of know what you are talking about so maybe this is just a case of mistaken terminology.
    As I rained blows upon him, I realized there had to be another way.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by gonzo
    what about driving far with bikes on the roof? anything that should be done before or after? driving from chicago to san fran in a few days with both bikes up there. don't really want to get those bra cover thingies, but i guess they are probably a good idea...
    But the real question should be, " should the bikes be facing the front or the back?"
    fighting gravity on a daily basis

    WhiteRoom Skis
    Handcrafted in Northern Vermont
    www.whiteroomcustomskis.com

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vinman
    But the real question should be, " should the bikes be facing the front or the back?"
    Sideways is the new back.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vinman
    But the real question should be, " should the bikes be facing the front or the back?"
    We put 2 bikes forward and 2 bikes backwards. So we're wrong either way.
    "Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "Wow, what a Ride!"

  11. #61
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    I don't know what kind of bikes you are working on, but any modern cassette is held on a modern freehub body with a lockring. Remove the lockring, the cassette slides right off. The only way to get that lockring off without the freehub (and cassette) spinning is to secure the cassette with a chain whip. .....

    Are your sure you really want to stand by that sentence????

    (Unless you have some leather gloves or some other ghetto-rigged method to hold the cassette, which given your grumpy retro-grouchy anal retentiveness about cone wrenches and pre packaged tool sets, would not suprise me)

    Gee, thanks, I have often been accused of both being grumpy and retro, that comes with age I guess...

    www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/stein-mini-lock/

    Not too retro or ghetto...

    The correct terminology would have been, the remove the free-hub body, you need a 12mm(?) allen, and must take out the axle and cones to access the allen bolt.


    Anyway, this seems kind of pointless,

    you wanna waste money on a crappy pre-packaged tool kit, go ahead. I had a chance to look one over at a friends house the other day and remain unimpressed by the quality of the tools. Cheap steel, just not very well made tools, but whatever makes one happy.
    Last edited by Bunion; 06-01-2005 at 09:21 AM.

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