Dynafit vulcan beast ramp delta.

[pow314]

Have been riding this combo for a season, love everything about it except for the ramp delta. I know the binding has 6mm, gonna need a plate to fix that, but my question is does the boot itself have significant ramp as well? I imagine it does, can I get the whole setup to 0 by adding a higher plate under the toes to make up for the ramp of the boot? Any help would be huge, I'm also working on machining a new aluminum notch for the spine of the boot to get it a bit more upright if anyone's interested in that.

[sethschmautz]

Hey,

Keep me posted on the new aluminum heel piece to decrease ramp - I'm interested.

Seth

[XXX-er]

IMO its pretty upright already

[auvgeek]

I'm also working on machining a new aluminum notch for the spine of the boot to get it a bit more upright if anyone's interested in that.

I'd be interested in one.

[sb]

So you think the boot adds ramp? My understanding is it is only the front to rear binding relationship.

I know its been discussed here in regard to the location of the tech fittings within the boot shell but seems to me there is only a very small amount this could be factored due to the fact that it would interfere with the tour and release functions.

You could try a tech fitted boot that has a more upright stance, 6mm is not that much.

[auvgeek]

So you think the boot adds ramp? My understanding is it is only the front to rear binding relationship.

I know its been discussed here in regard to the location of the tech fittings within the boot shell but seems to me there is only a very small amount this could be factored due to the fact that it would interfere with the tour and release functions.

We typically talk about "ramp angle," but there are two separate effects at play: the heel-toe delta in the binding (and with tech boots, the location of the pins) and separately the angle of the boot board. It's quite possible that a boot board is designed with a higher heel than toe, which can increase the "ramp angle" in a way. Personally, I think the binding delta should be minimized and (separately) the boot angle increased/decreased so the skier is balanced in the boot on flat ground. This is the method of (at least) one reputable bootfitter in Seattle, and it happens to work (and make sense) for me.

Edit: I'm just a layperson when it comes to boot fitting. I'm sure one of the profession bootfitters on this board will chime in and correct any mistakes.

[sb]

Yes, I was thinking a modified boot shim/ board would help to compensate also.

[XXX-er]

Probably to make the boot light as possible there is no boot board in a vulcan or mercury, you could change delta with toe shims under the toe piece and delta by machining a different insert to make you more upright they are kinda connected but different really.
edit:
I used a plastic toe shim under an alpine binding toe piece with the intention of making the boot more upright but much later I realized I had actualy changed delta which incidently had made the boot more upright

[gregL]

The ramp of the boot board/binding and the forward lean of the boot at the cuff are related but separate adjustments. Most people who are sensitive to ramp try to match their alpine setups in their touring setups - the bootfitter I think auvgeek is referring to will drop a locking level into both setups with boots in the bindings to measure this. The most common way to adjust ramp is by shimming under the tech toe, though the Beast 16 is way flatter than the Radical ST/FT or Speed Radical and fewer people seem to feel the need to do so. After matching the ramp at the boot board level you normally try to adjust the cuff lean so you have equal pressure/space to the fore and aft when you're standing in the boot.

The actual ramp of the bootboard in the Vulcan feels lower to me than many other AT boots, but I haven't measured it. As XXX-er mentions, there's no board to grind so you'll most likely end up building a shim to place under the toe. There's also tons of vertical space in the toebox, so it would be possible to add material under the front of the footbed if you have instep clearance.

[XXX-er]

YMMV Greg cuz I didn't find tons of vertical space in the mercury and if you got a high instep the stock liner sucks,

I think you cab buy shims at B & D which would reduce the delta

[creaky fossil]

So you think the boot adds ramp? My understanding is it is only the front to rear binding relationship.

boots, either through clog mold or zeppa mold, have different degrees of heel-up delta within their general hold of the foot. the heel/toe relativity in your AT boot may not be the same as in your alpine boot or in your hiking/backpacking boot or your running shoe. look at how running shoes have gone crazy with this question.

The ramp of the boot board/binding and the forward lean of the boot at the cuff are related but separate adjustments. Most people who are sensitive to ramp try to match their alpine setups in their touring setups

that's a bullseye. it doesn't mean everyone is so sensitive, doesn't mean everyone should worry over this issue, but some of us don't have any choice but worry over it because for us it is a big point in balance/centeredness. my inability to stand the same way relative to my skis' bases means I don't use my AT gear as much as I would if it didn't throw my balance off so badly. in totally fluffy snow it is a non-issue; everywhere else, where there's at least a semi-resistant quality to the snow underfoot, it matters a lot.

[pooree]

The boot will either have 15 or 18 degrees of forward lean I know of people that have made their own metal heels to reduce that number.

[XXX-er]

https://www.wildsnow.com/11304/insta...#comment-63952

[gregL]

YMMV Greg cuz I didn't find tons of vertical space in the mercury and if you got a high instep the stock liner sucks

Yes, the tight instep on the Vulcan/Merc definitely is a problem even for a lot of moderate instep feet. Was your previous boot a pre-13/14 Black Diamond Factor or Quadrant, Scarpa Typhoon/Hurricane, or Atomic Waymaker?

I think you cab buy shims at B & D which would reduce the delta

They have 1/8", 3/32" and 1/4" shims for Vertical/Comfort and Radical toes, but none yet for Beast 16's.

[skialpy]

The tounge holder downer on the liner is a real pain in the foot removed it with a seam ripper and pain be gone

[XXX-er]

Yes, the tight instep on the Vulcan/Merc definitely is a problem even for a lot of moderate instep feet. Was your previous boot a pre-13/14 Black Diamond Factor or Quadrant, Scarpa Typhoon/Hurricane, or Atomic Waymaker? .

nope, wide flat forefoot/ narrow ankle/ small low vol foot ... AT boot was a garmont xena

alpine boot is still a Dalbello surge

as skialpy sez its easy to remove that 3mm thick black piece from the top of the dynafit liner with a razor blade to cut the stitching, it makes a big difference but I sprang for intuition PW's ... and the boot is perfect

[gregL]

The tounge holder downer on the liner is a real pain in the foot removed it with a seam ripper and pain be gone

Cut mine out with a sharp knife, ground several mm's off the bottom of my footbeds, still tight over the instep and super roomy over my toes. Sold them and went with TLT6P's.

[pow314]

The boot will either have 15 or 18 degrees of forward lean I know of people that have made their own metal heels to reduce that number.

can you elaborate on this? i'm looking to get somewhere around 11 degrees, have been trying to make my own aluminium piece but getting the notch exact enough in size has been difficult.

[Dromond]

can you elaborate on this? i'm looking to get somewhere around 11 degrees, have been trying to make my own aluminium piece but getting the notch exact enough in size has been difficult.

I'm bumping this year-old thread to see if you or anyone else has been successfully able to do this.

[pow314]

I stopped fucking with it, I'm sure you could have a machine shop do it for you though. I got something to work just using a file, but it had too much play. Sold em and got a cast system.