Official Jigarex thread

[jvskinn]

Won a Jigarex at the CAIC benefit in Breck the other night during the silent auction, super pumped. It came with Dynafit Radical 2 and Marker Kingpin plates. Located in Frisco, CO. Would love to trade plates for G3 Ion or Salomon STH2 if anyone is interested.

Quick question because I haven't had time to take it out of the box and fiddle with it yet, how are you guys stopping the drill bit from going too deep into the ski? I've done mounts with paper templates and have just marked off 9mm on the drill bit, but it doesn't look like that would work for the jigarex. Thanks!

[doebedoe]

The easiest way is to just spend the $15 bucks to get a properly stepped bit from SVST -- available via slidewright.com etc.

The janky way to do it is with a piece of masking tape/electrical tape. But it'll have to be pretty narrow to get through the Jigarex holes I would expect.

[AlpiNord]

Won a Jigarex at the CAIC benefit in Breck the other night during the silent auction, super pumped. It came with Dynafit Radical 2 and Marker Kingpin plates. Located in Frisco, CO. Would love to trade plates for G3 Ion or Salomon STH2 if anyone is interested.

Quick question because I haven't had time to take it out of the box and fiddle with it yet, how are you guys stopping the drill bit from going too deep into the ski? I've done mounts with paper templates and have just marked off 9mm on the drill bit, but it doesn't look like that would work for the jigarex. Thanks!

Davieboot of Jigarex and I of SlideWright.com provided the Jigarex binding system with plates for the auction. It should have been stated, that we'll exchange the plates for others if you send them back. Here is the return address.

[jvskinn]

Davieboot of Jigarex and I of SlideWright.com provided the Jigarex binding system with plates for the auction. It should have been stated, that we'll exchange the plates for others if you send them back. Here is the return address.

It probably was stated, but beer. Anywho, that's awesome! Thank you so much. I'll get these bad boys sent off to you asap!

Also, thanks for providing the jigarex, the benefit is such an awesome event and you guys are part of what makes it so great.

[bigdude2468]

The easiest way is to just spend the $15 bucks to get a properly stepped bit from SVST -- available via slidewright.com etc.

The janky way to do it is with a piece of masking tape/electrical tape. But it'll have to be pretty narrow to get through the Jigarex holes I would expect.

What he said. Tognar has the bits also, they are stepped to stop the bit from going any deeper and they will NOT bubble up the hole like a regular bit does. The bushings in the Jiga Rex plate are the exact size of these bits so the bit won't wander. You won a $230 Jiga Rex and $25 plate, spend $15.

[doebedoe]

It probably was stated, but beer. Anywho, that's awesome! Thank you so much. I'll get these bad boys sent off to you asap!

Also, thanks for providing the jigarex, the benefit is such an awesome event and you guys are part of what makes it so great.

For his generosity, call him and buy the 2 bits you need (3.5mm / 4.1mm) to drill everything but junior skis. It'll be ~$40 and you'll have good karma.

Or if you end up with a pivot plate, come over to mine in Denver and you can borrow the bits.

[bigdude2468]

Won a Jigarex at the CAIC benefit in Breck the other night during the silent auction, super pumped. It came with Dynafit Radical 2 and Marker Kingpin plates. Located in Frisco, CO. Would love to trade plates for G3 Ion or Salomon STH2 if anyone is interested.
Quick question because I haven't had time to take it out of the box and fiddle with it yet, how are you guys stopping the drill bit from going too deep into the ski? I've done mounts with paper templates and have just marked off 9mm on the drill bit, but it doesn't look like that would work for the jigarex. Thanks!

Put a little grease inside the bushings to prevent wear. The bushings are aluminum (replaceable) so they can wear from the drill bit spinning.

[Jonathan S.]

Do the Radical 2 plates include the heel pattern for the demo/rental version?
(On the Vertical/Radical1 the demo/rental heel pattern is long -- I'm pretty sure that's the case with the demo/rental version, although I haven't checked them side-by-side.)

[AlpiNord]

Do the Radical 2 plates include the heel pattern for the demo/rental version?
(On the Vertical/Radical1 the demo/rental heel pattern is long -- I'm pretty sure that's the case with the demo/rental version, although I haven't checked them side-by-side.)

As a check, I drew the Dynafit Radical 2.0 binding template from measuring the Jigarex Radical 2.0 plates we have in stock.

[Jonathan S.]

As a check, I drew the Dynafit Radical 2.0 binding template from measuring the Jigarex Radical 2.0 plates we have in stock.

So unlike the demo/rental version for the Vertical & Radical "1" ... the Radical 2 rental/demo heel pattern is identical the standard Radical 2 ST/FT?

[AlpiNord]

So unlike the demo/rental version for the Vertical & Radical "1" ... the Radical 2 rental/demo heel pattern is identical the standard Radical 2 ST/FT?

Not sure. Davieboot could possibly answer that. I assumed you had the bindings in hand and wanted to see how the plates would work.

[Jonathan S.]

Not sure. Davieboot could possibly answer that. I assumed you had the bindings in hand and wanted to see how the plates would work.

Unfortunately I neglected to measure the bindings when I had them here (other than noting they didn't match up with anything in my pre-Radical 2 jig) ... was a very busy evening:
https://www.facebook.com/NERandoRace...type=3&theater

[SkiersLeft]

So unlike the demo/rental version for the Vertical & Radical "1" ... the Radical 2 rental/demo heel pattern is identical the standard Radical 2 ST/FT?

Yes. Demo is the same hole pattern.

[HHTELE]

A buddy just got one, and I have used it twice.
Had a hard time keeping it from moving fore and aft- 1st time I jut left a bit in the bushing and into the one of the holes. Last night I clamped it onto the ski.

!-st mount Marker Tours- perfect.

Last night did Radicals. Not perfect. Heels did not line up, and couldn't really tweak it into place. It's like all 4 toe holes were perfect in relation to each other, but not the heel.

I have done 6-8 Dynafit mounts- templates and an old shop jig- and this was the the only one I couldn't get straight.

Any thoughts?

[Gunder]

The easiest way is to just spend the $15 bucks to get a properly stepped bit from SVST -- available via slidewright.com etc.

The janky way to do it is with a piece of masking tape/electrical tape. But it'll have to be pretty narrow to get through the Jigarex holes I would expect.

Proper bits are by far the best way. Plus thye are designed to be centered in the jig holes. Use one of thse, http://svst.com/Shop/Drill-Bits-Acce...ter-Punch.html and either one of these http://svst.com/Shop/Drill-Bits-Acce...r-W-Drill.html or http://svst.com/Shop/Drill-Bits-Acce...l-4-1X9-5.html FYI I use 4.1 and a tap for skis with metal or 3.6 for all non metal skis.

It's also smart to use one of these http://svst.com/Shop/Drill-Bits-Acce...untersink.html afterwards to prevent the top sheet frompulling up.

The best ghetto option is to get drill bit shaft collars at the hardware store. http://www.zoro.com/dayton-stop-coll...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
They are cheap and a million times better then eyeballing with tape.

[Andeh]

A buddy just got one, and I have used it twice.
Had a hard time keeping it from moving fore and aft- 1st time I jut left a bit in the bushing and into the one of the holes. Last night I clamped it onto the ski.

!-st mount Marker Tours- perfect.

Last night did Radicals. Not perfect. Heels did not line up, and couldn't really tweak it into place. It's like all 4 toe holes were perfect in relation to each other, but not the heel.

I have done 6-8 Dynafit mounts- templates and an old shop jig- and this was the the only one I couldn't get straight.

Any thoughts?

I asked in the MYOFS thread about drilling straight, having done about a half dozen Dynafit mounts with an official Dynafit jig and Jigarex. I haven't had any that were unusable, but I definitely had to get creative with tightening the screws on a few. TLDR answer: get an SVST punch, run that through the jig, then use a small bit to make a pilot hole on the divot, then use your stepped bit through a drill guide.

[dschane]

TLDR answer: get an SVST punch, run that through the jig, then use a small bit to make a pilot hole on the divot, then use your stepped bit through a drill guide.

That is exactly what I do -- the SVST punch rocks for having a perfectly centered hole. The only difference is that I just remove the jig after I make the center hole punches -- drilling straight for 3.5mm with a stepped bit isn't challenging, even for someone as uncoordinated as I am.

The other possibility is to check to make sure that the centering mechanism on both ends of the jig is correctly aligned. Someone once removed the cranks on my jig and when he put them back, it was off center, which you can easily tell by looking at the teeth on each side clamps to make sure the same number are showing as the clamps move back and forth.

[Andeh]

That is exactly what I do -- the SVST punch rocks for having a perfectly centered hole. The only difference is that I just remove the jig after I make the center hole punches -- drilling straight for 3.5mm with a stepped bit isn't challenging, even for someone as uncoordinated as I am.

The other possibility is to check to make sure that the centering mechanism on both ends of the jig is correctly aligned. Someone once removed the cranks on my jig and when he put them back, it was off center, which you can easily tell by looking at the teeth on each side clamps to make sure the same number are showing as the clamps move back and forth.

Yeah, I forgot to mention the remove jig part out, but I was under the impression from the suggestions people gave me to remove jig after punching, and that it's pretty hard not to drill straight with the drill guide plus setting your stepped bit / small bit on the divot made by the punch.

[dschane]

I think it's fine to leave the jig on too for the built in guide on the jig -- to each his own.

[Gunder]

I think it's fine to leave the jig on too for the built in guide on the jig -- to each his own.

Leaving it on is by far the most accurate. When doing inserts, I do everything directly threw the jig so everything lines up 100% If you remove the jig you will certainly have some minor alignment issues.

[dschane]

Leaving it on is by far the most accurate. When doing inserts, I do everything directly threw the jig so everything lines up 100% If you remove the jig you will certainly have some minor alignment issues.

I don't know, if you start with a solid punch, go with a small bit to make it bigger, it's pretty hard to fuck it up by hand, and then you can quickly verify it's going well by overlaying the binding. Done a lot of inserts now and am yet to fuck one up this way. I've fucked up a few inserts in my time pre-jig days with paper templates and Fritschi/Silvretta bindings. But it's a matter of preference -- you can't really fuck it up either way if you're careful.

[HHTELE]

I asked in the MYOFS thread about drilling straight, having done about a half dozen Dynafit mounts with an official Dynafit jig and Jigarex. I haven't had any that were unusable, but I definitely had to get creative with tightening the screws on a few. TLDR answer: get an SVST punch, run that through the jig, then use a small bit to make a pilot hole on the divot, then use your stepped bit through a drill guide.

It doesn't seem as though a punch would help. All 4 holes lined up nicely with the toe- the toe didn't line up with the heel. I snugged them 1 at a time independently after marking the ski with a pencil- none of the screws pulled the binding. So, no real way to use the standard screw tightening tricks.

The weird think is that one heel was off to the left, one off to the right. this makes me think the crux of the problem is me.

By no means an expert, but in addition to a handful of Dynafit mounts, I have done Fritchis, Naxos alpine and tele with templates, jigs, and just using the biding and a properly sized punch. Can't figure where this one went wrong.

The set up is usable but annoying. The friend I did if for isn't bothered, but I am. I did not drill out the heel tabs this time. Maybe if I knock those out, I can get a bit of wiggle out of the heel.

[rudy]

Anyone have a large Salomon guardian plate I could borrow in the Boulder area?

[auvgeek]

It doesn't seem as though a punch would help. All 4 holes lined up nicely with the toe- the toe didn't line up with the heel.

Punch lightly and then check the (lateral) spacing with a pair of digital calipers? If you're off, recenter the jig and try again. If you're on, re-punch and use Andeh's method. After having a Jigarex mount be slightly off center, that's my new plan.

[jvskinn]

Anyone have a large Salomon guardian plate I could borrow in the Boulder area?

I've got Salomon STH2 plates up in Summit, I think the toe is different unfortunately.