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Thread: Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

  1. #10526
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
    Posts
    7,190
    <p>
    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    The open trench is really not practical, as I would have to go through my neighbor&#39;s yard, whereas the reliner appears to be no fuss no muss. After looking at his camera, as it went down my line, I went aaah fuck and told him let&#39;s do this. So yeah, hopefully in 3 weeks I never have to snake that fucker again in my lifetime. Sent from my moto g stylus 5G (2022) using Tapatalk
    I think of it as a machine that mixes cement in with gravel and water to make concrete. So kind of both</p>
    However many are in a shit ton.

  2. #10527
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    13,574
    So how do you know when you need to redo your roof shingles?

  3. #10528
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    8,271
    Asphalt or wood?

  4. #10529
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    13,574
    Asphalt shingles. House is about 30yo, but might have been redone during that time, not sure.

  5. #10530
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    8,271
    Widespread granule loss and cracking, loose and torn shingles.

    Granule loss exposes the matting which will lead to rapid deterioration due to UV and weather exposure, and can happen with hail damage, foot traffic, age, or manufacturer defects. Cracking is usually age related and a good indicator of end of service life. Loose shingles occur when the glue strip isn't adhered anymore and the shingles can lift and tear in the wind, also usually age related.

    You can google search for pictures and that will give you a good idea what to look for.

  6. #10531
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    8,271
    You're welcome

  7. #10532
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    3,518
    First heating season with our new heat pump and I've been shocked at what a POS it is. Fortunately we installed a NG furnace as backup heat and have just been using that almost all the time.

    Finally called the HVAC company when the thermostat was at 68 but the temp was 62 with outside temps in the low 40s. They agreed that seemed off and came out today to check it out. They determined it wasn't charged with enough refrigerant at install and brought it up to spec. Total eyeroll, but interested to see if it works better for us now.

  8. #10533
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    11,005
    Mine are working well into low single digits.

  9. #10534
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    At the beach
    Posts
    20,926
    With electricity so expensive in San Diego, a heat pump makes little sense to me. Hopefully your location is way different.

    Sent from my moto g stylus 5G (2022) using Tapatalk
    Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.

  10. #10535
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    21,201
    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    With electricity so expensive in San Diego, a heat pump makes little sense to me. Hopefully your location is way different.

    Sent from my moto g stylus 5G (2022) using Tapatalk
    I’m not sure when is the right time for you, but the City of SD is headed towards electric power exclusively (solar, wind ok too, but electric)

    https://www.sandiego.gov/sustainabil...20partnerships.

  11. #10536
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    1,398
    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
    Mine are working well into low single digits.
    Been experimenting with mine during a recent cold spell and it seems to stop being able to keep up right around zero:


    It is set to keep running until -5--my understanding is that even though it can't keep up with the heat loss, it is still likely producing some heat at a lower cost than the heat strips. But I'm not 100% sure that's true and it might be better to just have a hard cutoff around 0-5F and switch over to the heat strips.

    Partially for comfort--when the heat pump is borderline, it pushes out very lukewarm air and runs the fan nonstop. Constantly having 75F air blowing around the house trying to keep it at 69 probably feels drafty/cooler than just blowing HOT air from the backup heat a few times an hour.

    Mine is new but not a particularly fancy unit (single stage 14 seer installed by previous owner in 2023 when they knew they would be moving out soon).

  12. #10537
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    3,518
    Have a 100 year old retaining wall in the backyard that's at end of life. Its about thirty inches tall by twenty five feet long. Replacement options are poured concrete (or is it cement?), dry laid stone, or gabion. Need to put a six foot privacy fence either on top or six to twelve inches behind it. Anyone have thoughts on relative costs to hire it out? Would like the stone but assuming it will be way more expensive than the other options to have it done right.

  13. #10538
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    livin the dream
    Posts
    6,400
    Natural stone will be $$$$

    You mostly see dry stacked block walls for that application - they hit the sweet spot - cost vs looks.

    I would be concerned with a fence directly behind the wall. But [emoji637][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]]”+ wouldn’t be a concern.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Best Skier on the Mountain
    Self-Certified
    1992 - 2012
    Squaw Valley, USA

  14. #10539
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    seatown
    Posts
    4,349
    setting fence posts in concrete sounds easiest if you can narrow to one contractor and aren’t worried about losing lot space

  15. #10540
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    3,518
    The retaining wall is the property line, so the fence behind the wall would be a convo with that neighbor, but he would probably be ok with it because thats not really usable space in his yard. Theres an existing fence in that location already but its falling down

  16. #10541
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Yonder
    Posts
    22,532
    Tough call without seeing it or knowing your budget

    Could dry lay a stacked concrete wall in front of the existing wall. Then need backfill.

    Could also dry lay stone in front.

    Or. Pour concrete. And veneer or whatever. Ooof. Big money.

    If you can get three truckloads of nice stones a foot diameter. And dry lay them against the failing wall it’s a diy and affordable and will be a nice look. Place fabric behind the stones as you backfill.
    The fence can be the same place.

  17. #10542
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    6,782

  18. #10543
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    3,518
    Best material for a shower pan? Design/build folks suggested acrylic (barf) or a mud base with tile. I'm going to ask them to look at enamel/porcelain over steel/cast iron. Are any of the composites worth a damn?

    Biggest criteria is longevity and low maintenance, I want it to last 30 years.

  19. #10544
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,357
    Quote Originally Posted by dan_pdx View Post
    Best material for a shower pan? Design/build folks suggested acrylic (barf) or a mud base with tile. I'm going to ask them to look at enamel/porcelain over steel/cast iron. Are any of the composites worth a damn?

    Biggest criteria is longevity and low maintenance, I want it to last 30 years.
    Schluter or equivalent is my go-to. Unless you don't want to tile the floor, in which case you could use a one piece fiberglass/acrylic or metal. Either will be done unless you drop an anvil onto it.

    Tile redi makes some very nice one piece custom pans that might be good if you (gasp!) want a linear drain.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  20. #10545
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    3,518
    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    Schluter or equivalent is my go-to. Unless you don't want to tile the floor, in which case you could use a one piece fiberglass/acrylic or metal. Either will be done unless you drop an anvil onto it.

    Tile redi makes some very nice one piece custom pans that might be good if you (gasp!) want a linear drain.
    Thanks man! I'm open to tiling the floor, just assuming it will need to be sealed often and regrouted every 5 to 10 years or so, which seems like a drag. Am I wrong about that?

    Is schluter a pre-made pan? That seems like a better approach than getting someone to build the mud bed and tile it. Lots more opportunity for error if you're doing the mud bed by hand, right? I wonder why our design build folks didn't suggest a pre-made pan.

    Re: linear drains, I have no strong feelings one way or the other beyond recognizing that they are the hot new thing, which might not be a fit for our 1913 bungalow. Are they a challenge from a plumbing perspective?

  21. #10546
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    4,889
    Schluter is a waterproofing and isolation system. They have a premade pan option, is a foam base with slope. There are a thousand YouTube videos for this stuff.

  22. #10547
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    8,086
    My dad&#39;s a DIY guy and has redone three bathrooms with Schluter now. He loves the stuff.

    (I&#39;d value climberevans opinion over mine on this any day, but point is that it&#39;s not something that only people who work with it day in day out can use.)

  23. #10548
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    8,271
    I think the composite (corian) pans are nice, and pretty care free, but you're not going to save any money on them holy cow.

  24. #10549
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    2,638
    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack;[emoji[emoji6[emoji640
    [emoji638]][emoji640][emoji639]][emoji638][emoji637][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]]]Schluter is a waterproofing and isolation system. They have a premade pan option, is a foam base with slope. There are a thousand YouTube videos for this stuff.
    I did this, it’s pretty straightforward.


    Sent from my iPhone using [emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji640][emoji638][emoji638][emoji638]]TGR Forums

  25. #10550
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    3,518
    Quote Originally Posted by Skistack View Post
    I did this, it’s pretty straightforward.


    Sent from my iPhone using [emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji640][emoji638][emoji638][emoji638]]TGR Forums
    This is the only bathroom in the house and we decided it would be better for marital harmony to hire it out rather than for me to figure it out over the course of a few months. So DIY is off the table and we're going to pay through the nose instead for hopefully a better end result than what I would have delivered

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