Climbing Stoke

[schuss]

didn’t get out this weekend, i am jealous

Have you been to Merriam Woods? It sounds like the new place to clip bolts somewhat more removed from the crowds than at Rumney.

One of these days I have to do a NH trip

I've stayed away as this is the current guidance per https://www.merriamwoods.org/ : FOMW recommends that climbers choose to climb elsewhere while the WCC comes up with a management plan.

Rumney on a weekday is fantastic. Rock quality is honestly stupendous and depending on what you're into and the grade, I may be able to suggest some stuff. I forget if you do trad, but also a ton of stellar routes all over the place.

[romeo tango]

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kicked off the season bouldering at Minnihaha,
Spokane's premier urban crag/junkie vortex

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[ex-powderbroker]

30 mins of some really nice mid aughts footage in the gunks. lots of little scenes with legends and future legends. No footy of Salo after he went to free 14 on the Ozone buttress but I almost prefer watching this stuff in human achievable grades climbing with friends, clean rock, I'm stoked..

https://vimeo.com/837134719

[ex-powderbroker]

new crag about an hour away. really interesting rock, lots of bolts, cracks, pockets, etc. wild strawberries are out and so are mosquitos the size of sparrows. good times!

[tgapp]

new crag about an hour away. really interesting rock, lots of bolts, cracks, pockets, etc. wild strawberries are out and so are mosquitos the size of sparrows. good times!

Hey!! That looks amazing!! Beautiful rock, shame about the mosquitoes.

I got out for my first day on rock this year to run up a classic 3p 5.8 with just enough spice (small cams and smaller brassies) and just enough difficulty to make for a perfect season opener. Stoked to spend more time on rock this summer.

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[ex-powderbroker]

oh fuck yea, another parc bear my house got urban boulders. if the air stays breathable (impossible if) maybe i could avoid gyms for the rest of the summer

[schuss]

Nice! Those look pretty sweet. I really want it to stop raining.

[climberevan]

After a many year break for both of us, Patches and I have been rock climbing twice in the last 8 days. First one was Lover's Leap, where we just walked right up to an empty Bear's Reach. Yesterday we climbed Cathedral in Tuolumne. I'm reminded of why this activity took most of my focus for a bunch of years in my 20s and 30s...

[tellybele]

Nice! Same here RE: focus. Tuolumne is my favorite zone of all. It's beauty and has a way of growing your head in many directions. The alley and Sonora Pass are close seconds. Way to get out and spark up the inner fire of the past!

[ex-powderbroker]

back on track-ish with some TRS



i think i’ve posted pics of the secret cliff in the background here. looks awesome from ten miles off, so steep!



it started to rain as usual and i didn’t get a pic of the route.

[schuss]

I'll try to get some pics up but finally learning trad - this shits hard!

[Rossymcg]

I'll try to get some pics up but finally learning trad - this shits hard!

learning to trust your placement is another story

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[ex-powderbroker]

you don’t have to trust it if you never fall!

weekend hiking near silver lake. love this spot.





that overhung section in the second is called theTsunami wall, it was home to New York’s only all gear 5.14 unless any of the stuff on Ozone is going without clipping pitons now.

I’m pretty sure it’s only seen one ascent, i’m not likely next.

[schuss]

Rapping off my first 5.5 lead on some wet ass rock on Cathedral. Super educational weekend, had an ex-marine climbing instructor with decades of guiding experience critiquing every placement and move. I think learning to lead on that and another wet 5.7 (no falls, only some slight aid at the bottom as it was basically soaked and mad the feet impossible on the first move) along with simulated rescue work on square ledge and an exchanged multi-pitch lead gave us a strong foundation to start exploring.

[schuss]

learning to trust your placement is another story

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Part of the course we did included a simulated rap off just webbing knots and rapping off 2 nuts twice, which made me feel a lot better about a lot of placements/strength. I imagine I'll feel a bit differently when I start getting run out on whitehorse, but plan on taking it slow and building some experience before I get into the PG13+ type stuff.

Also helped I got a disappointed look from the guide when I placed more than 1 cam in a row, so got a lot of initial reps on nuts/tricam placements and his voice living in my head rent-free on how to place well.

[ex-powderbroker]

sounds fun. i always place a passive piece on every lead to stay sharp but i wonder what the purpose really is in an age when most people have about 75 cams on their rack for single pitch climbing. maybe it made a bit more sense when Friends were on in three sizes and cost a first born. idk. i still like my tricams even though they’re the butt of more jokes than a PAS thong. Not that I know what i’m talking about having forgotten due to no climbing outside for a month now. it shouldn’t be so hard to make time to do a favorite activity but first smoke, now rain. hopefully this is the week!

[schuss]

sounds fun. i always place a passive piece on every lead to stay sharp but i wonder what the purpose really is in an age when most people have about 75 cams on their rack for single pitch climbing. maybe it made a bit more sense when Friends were on in three sizes and cost a first born. idk. i still like my tricams even though they’re the butt of more jokes than a PAS thong. Not that I know what i’m talking about having forgotten due to no climbing outside for a month now. it shouldn’t be so hard to make time to do a favorite activity but first smoke, now rain. hopefully this is the week!

I believe in your opportunity!

Yep, as far as that, there was some discussion of it and his thoughts were that nuts have a lower floor but a higher ceiling in terms of solidity and you should have them as a tool in the toolbox since they're lighter and easier to carry a volume of vs. cams, but depends on terrain. He said desert or long consistent cracks - just get a double/triple rack of cams and call it good. For new england nuts are useful for lots of the small pockets we have. Also wholly agree that tricams are the shit.

[ex-powderbroker]

i should get some bigger ones. love taking them on trips to do easy leads where the choice is light rack or no climbing.

200% of precip so far in a typical summer and the air quality monitor is still going off. i should really take a trip.

[schuss]

i should get some bigger ones. love taking them on trips to do easy leads where the choice is light rack or no climbing.

200% of precip so far in a typical summer and the air quality monitor is still going off. i should really take a trip.

I feel you. Had a strong spring climbing then just fucking nothing for like a month and a half as it was just raining or it was on a workday. My first two leads were soaked to the point that I lost all my chalk every move remotely near a crack (and they were mostly crack). Was especially interesting on the 2nd that had tons of rubber polish on the feet as well from being a well traveled route (also yes I'm a gumby coward).

[zion zig zag]

I like to use nuts when building an anchor, so that I save all of my cams for the next pitch. For the same reason, if I have a really good stance when placing gear I like to use nuts to save the cams for later in the pitch if needed.

Trying to teach my son to trad climb/place gear. He is doing pretty well, most of his placements have been totally solid. One thing he won't listen to me on is putting the rope in your mouth when clipping. I was taught that that was a great way to lose teeth if you fall while clipping, but he insists everyone does it.

[schuss]

Ha, I got a remedial "here's the right way to clip" clinic as part of this past weekend and it helped a lot. You shouldn't need your teeth as grabbing the slack and clipping should be one smooth one-handed motion. Setup some draws at home and have him practice, as that's what i've been doing thumb+forefinger with middle in the bottom of the biner for one side, finger like a gun with thumb stabilizing the biner for the other direction.

More importantly - Good on you two!

[romeo tango]

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if possible,
place your pro at chest level
that gives you a good vantage to inspect the placement
also minimizes the amount of slack you need to pull for the clip

many climbers seem to think they need to place gear above their heads
possibly a carryover from clipping bolts?

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[climberevan]

Soul=fed.Attachment 467112

[schuss]

Stunning!

[ex-powderbroker]

yeah, pretty pretty pretty good