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Thread: PSA: Repair you own fucking edge compression

  1. #201
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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn View Post
    In that last picture it looks like the whole ski is deformed from the hit. The core might be damaged. If you don’t fix the edge blowout it’s going to get wet in there


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    Edge tabs from the edge being twisted

  2. #202
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    Nov 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by stealurface831 View Post
    if these are new or just skis you really like, i'd probably do surgery.

    but if not, i'd pry things open a bit, jam some toothpicks in to keep things open, apply epoxy, give some local heat to get it moving, hit it with some compressed air to really get it in there, then give it some love with a hammer to get things back in shape a bit, then clamp. 3 way edge clamps if you got em. file work to cut down more of the edge wave.

    or just epoxy and clamp and relegate to outside edge.

    edited for clarity and additional details
    Compressed air is a good idea. I did my BMTs above by prying them and pushing gflex with a dental syringe. #yolo

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Edge tabs from the edge being twisted
    Would that push all the way into the top sheet? Top sheet is definitely deformed a little.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by stealurface831 View Post
    with the durability issues of those, i'd just epoxy and clamp. and look forward to unrelated delam repairs in the near future.
    Yeah, I was aware of potential durability issues. I was a little surprised at the extent of the damage, but I did clip a buried rock somewhat solidly, so I’ll blame myself for this first strike.

  5. #205
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    Yeah tuco, look at the top sheet, it’s definitely deformed. I would guess that the core is crushed a little, at the very least the sidewall has separated from the core.

    I recently fixed a pair of Motive ninety fives where I hit a rock and mangled the edge way worse than that and there was no damage visible to the core or sidewall.

    Re cutting the edge out and replacing, epoxy will seal the seam between the new and old edge. Trying to bend the edge back won’t yield great results because it’s never going to be straight and it will have memory. A new section of edge lays in there very nicely and with screws and epoxy it’s hard to see the repair.
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  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    Would that push all the way into the top sheet? Top sheet is definitely deformed a little.
    No, your sidewall is separated. A little epoxy and side clamping should fix it

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn View Post
    Yeah tuco, look at the top sheet, it’s definitely deformed. I would guess that the core is crushed a little, at the very least the sidewall has separated from the core.

    I recently fixed a pair of Motive ninety fives where I hit a rock and mangled the edge way worse than that and there was no damage visible to the core or sidewall.

    Re cutting the edge out and replacing, epoxy will seal the seam between the new and old edge. Trying to bend the edge back won’t yield great results because it’s never going to be straight and it will have memory. A new section of edge lays in there very nicely and with screws and epoxy it’s hard to see the repair.
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    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Respectfully disagree w/ not only being able to rebend bent and twisted edges(I've done this dozens upon dozen of times now), but also w/ the fact that epoxy will create a durable seal @ the edge to edge interface. Personally, I also believe that's why manufacturers also no longer use 'cracked' edges. They leak!

    Here's a fellow mags split board who encountered a shark in the wild. Bent edge, cracked and blown sidewall that's delammed from the core and composite layer failure.
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    Rebent everything to shape, got epoxy in and under all damage and layed it up w/ a giant sintered base patch(way, way stronger that a base weld, which will actually weaken a repair like this long term).
    Last edited by tuco; 01-20-2025 at 08:04 AM.

  8. #208
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    On another tangent.
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    ^^^^
    Nice job. How do you cut the base material cleanly? Have you ever used a hot knife?

    An additional comment regarding base materials and welding vs patching. The welded material is much like extruded plastic and does not hold wax nearly as well as a sintered patch.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlpiNord View Post
    ^^^^
    Nice job. How do you cut the base material cleanly? Have you ever used a hot knife?

    An additional comment regarding base materials and welding vs patching. The welded material is much like extruded plastic and does not hold wax nearly as well as a sintered patch.
    Utility knife w/ a decent blade. Cut patch and base at the same time.
    Never tried hot knife, I'd be afraid of the cut line getting distorted.

  10. #210
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    While I agree that sintered base material holds wax better I don’t see how a base weld would weaken the repair I posted. I used metal grip string because it was only a strip of base one cm wide that got lifted a bit when the edge blew out. I thought more base would have delaminated but I couldn’t get anything under the original base after I cut the edge and base material out. It’s only used as an outside edge so I’m not really worried about wax retention on that narrow strip of base. I think I would have had to remove a bit more base material to epoxy a patch in there.


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  11. #211
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    Because you are applying heat to recently cured epoxy. It can weaken your bond. Similar to heating up an epoxied in binding screw. I can see at least one air bubble in your weld right next to the edge. That came from air pocket below. It's fine for a home repair if you don't care about the skis dude.
    Patches are fairly bommer. I have skis that have patches within patches. Also you can do the repair all in one set.

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