Elect mags: range question

[Timberridge]

So the lower heating element broke on my oven (12 yr old dual fuel Dacor). The old element had obvious blister on it and tested bad for continuity and my wife said it popped and there was smoke when it went. I ordered a new one and just installed it. Just to be sure I checked the new one before installing it and it tested ok for continuity. Unfortunately, it does not heat up either. So, there is another issue I guess.

My questions:
1. does the relay board tend to go whenever the element goes? or should I suspect something else?
2. since I have no idea on how to test this board, am I just looking at $300 to replace this (they seem to be around this price online), or is there a place that can test and fix these boards cheaper, or lastly, am I just dumping $$ down the rabbit hole on this thing since its 12 yrs old?

Btw, the gas stovetop, screen, broil element and convection fan work ok, its just the lower element is not working.

[iceman]

I have no idea about #2, but I have a dacor electric oven and have replaced the lower element and it worked no problem so I'd look for other prolems before dropping three hundie on a board.

[Crass3000]

One thing I can say is there shouldn't be continuity between a heating element prong and the outer coating of the element. Not sure if that helps but you can tell if the heating element is bad by doing that test.

If it's 12 years old get another range. I would think that typically replacing the element would do it. If not why bother with the old thing?

[Cruiser]

Is there a fuse someplace that you're missing? Seems like there might be a fuse in there to protect the board and other internals from surging current in the event of an element failing like yours did. But that's just me talking out my ass.

Chances are good that there is a whole online forum devoted to kitchen appliance repair (though it's almost certainly full of dentists) and this exact issue has been raised already. Maybe spend some time googling that shit?

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[Timberridge]

Chances are good that there is a whole online forum devoted to kitchen appliance repair (though it's almost certainly full of dentists) and this exact issue has been raised already. Maybe spend some time googling that shit?

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Oh, I've spent some time there too. I just remember seeing some good advice on here before re: fixing ranges. And I'm looking for someone to talk me out of spending $1800 on a new range because I just hate getting rid of something when the other 80% of it works. But I'm going range shopping this afternoon.

Thanks Crass, the element seems to check out on that test.

Any suggestions? Kitchen Aid, etc?

[Cruiser]

FWIW we were quite happy with a Kenmore Elite dual fuel convection range that we put into our old house. It was reasonably priced compared to the premium brands and the performance was quite good.

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[userA]

viking brand cooking devices are quality and made in USA.
B

[TWINS]

If you can find a schematic on it trace the circuit back and see where it goes. A cheap voltage meter will do the job for that. Might find your problem.

[splat]

Loose wires. Maybe shorted on the backside of where you plug it in, hence, the wife hearing sparks, fried to non-connectivity.

[Snow Dog]

Normally swapping out an oven element is easy. The first thing to check is the breakers -- it's possible for one side of a ganged breaker to pop and leave the other one ON. The next is to take off the back and check for burnt wires to the element and check the voltage to the element. They should be ok but you never know. Then check the schematic on the back panel for fuses and relays. It's possible that soldered fuses are uses so you'd need a new circuit board but the the fuses can be replaced with a little solder work.

(My fancy Jenn-Air has no internal fuses. The internal wiring can handle a direct short and it's up to the house breaker panel to deal with it.)

[Timberridge]

Normally swapping out an oven element is easy.

(My fancy Jenn-Air has no internal fuses. The internal wiring can handle a direct short and it's up to the house breaker panel to deal with it.)

Yeah I thought it would be easy too.

And mine doesn't have any fuses either--just the house breaker as well. On my way driving around to a few appliance stores, I got inspired (the thought of spending $2K did it I think).

So I ripped the stove apart and started tracing the heat element wire back to the relay board...no voltage on this wire when bake was selected...checked the main terminals and they were hot...started turning on the shit that worked one by one, broil, convection fan etc and figured out which relay the bake one was by the fact that it was the only one not clicking. So I think its the relay board and I'll suck it up --ordered a new one. It musta popped when the element fried or perhaps it caused the element to fry IDK.

I suppose I could try just replacing that relay on the PCB, but I'm horrible at desoldering/soldering small stuff like PCB's.

We'll see what happens.

Thanks everyone.

[Snow Dog]

You could try an audio electronics repair shop. Replacing a relay is simple with the right tools and it might be cheaper than a new board -- assuming its the relay and not the circuit that drives the relay.