Getting the Goods of Gallatin
May 3rd-5th, 2013.
Soundtrack: Hank III and His Damn Band, bootleg from Nashville
The Players:
ODH
photo: Jen Rook
Addison
Morrison
Weather: Cold and snowing, or warm and sunny. You know, Spring.
The Place: Gallatin Peak 11,015'
Gallatin is a beautiful mountain. Being the tallest in the Spanish Peaks subrange of the Madison Range, it is visible from many locations.
It looms over the lesser peaks looking west on Garnet:
It peeks over high ridgelines looking from the north:
It is the obvious high point when viewed from the south:
And holds the distinction of being the highest peak visible from the Gallatin Valley:
Gallatin Peak was named after Albert Gallatin, Secretary of the Treasury from 1801-1815
Handsome devil.
As he was Secretary of the Treasury during Lewis and Clark's adventure across the west, the duo named many important geographic points after him, as well as other prominent public figures, in order secure favor and thus, more $$. So we have the Madison, Gallatin, and Jefferson rivers and counties, the Madison and Gallatin Ranges, Gallatin Peak, Mount Jefferson... and so on.
Anywho, back to Gallatin Peak.
I had been on the summit of Gallatin once before:
..but that was in the summer. I longed to see what it would be like covered in snow.
Last year Addison and I went out in late May to try our luck, and although we still had some fun..
..the coverage was lacking and the weather warm, so we ended up doing lots of this:
So riding on a hunch, and after bailing on plans for a day tour Friday, we waited for Morrison to get his gear together, and set out that afternoon for a weekend of camping.
Addison making his way through Beehive. We went to the head of the basin and took off over the east pass towards Summit Lake, and on towards Gallatin.
We knew the weather was going to be cloudy and snowy Friday into Saturday, and sure enough:
We couldn't see shit! Addison getting ready to drop off the pass.
We got to the Thompson Lake area just before dusk, set up the tent, and tried to dry off from all the snow falling. The next morning we woke to clouds, did a little bit of camp work, then set off for the day.
Gallatin is somewhere over there.
We went a short little way and decided to hit something we could sort of see. Everything disappeared into the clouds, and we took a gamble on one that seemed to go a ways up. Turns out it was a good bet..
Morrison and Addison heading up and right
Dug a pit to confirm hunches, CT 16~ 60cm deep, ECT NP, ECT NP again higher up. Yup.
So, up we went.
All smiles here.
I'm a sucker for these stupid goggle-reflection shots.
I was the only one with an axe, so they made me go first. I was a-ok with that.
We find some silly places to hang in the mountains.
It had been sort of clearing for a little while, but then the clouds began to sock back in
But that didn't phase us. We were very happy to be alive, perched on the Rhino Roost.
You had to be there.
This line kept going up and up! Just as we thought we were reaching the col, we spied a chute that continued up towards the east face, then a ridge that kept going from there. I felt we were close to the summit, but the already low vis combined with fading daylight had us debating on continuing up.
We waited a few minutes and my hunch only grew, so up we went again. The boys weren't too keen on the ridge in front of us, so we walked around to the snow-covered east face
A few moments later, after some steep steps on the east face, I reached the summit and collapsed to my knees in gratitude. It was clear here, but you could make out some ridges, and see the clouds roiling where significant peaks were. It was bliss.
Addison on the final steps up
And then, there we were. Gallatin Peak summit, 11,015'.
We enjoyed the moment of clear weather, but in an amateur move, enjoyed it a little too long and the clouds rolled back in. We had to get back to here:
..but the clouds rolling in made the first turns a little scary. Did I mention it was also 8:15pm? Tips over the east face:
We negotiated the upper east face, got some powder in the top chute, and then were back at the col. Addison heading into the darkness
With only one firm spot at the top of the couloir, it was one of my most enjoyable ski descents ever. Perfect smooth powder with weird vis, rock walls on either side to give some depth, and a solid 2,000' from the summit. Amen.
We got back to the tent around 9, made dinner, melted water, celebrated with libations, and hit the sack, some tired puppies.
-continued-
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